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Check your car's service history as there were recalls on some VINs for roof liner issues. Also look in the recalls and service bulletin section of the forum. I'm point you, but I've got an HTTP 500 issue. https://owner.ford.com/ http://www.etis.ford.com/ Frank

Just to clarify for those who may not be aware, there are two ways to prevent the ICE running for heat, when you might otherwise EV. Turn the heat off. Nothing works. Set the system to 60/60. Everything works. You get airflow to the vents and windshield, but the air is cold. I direct air to FEET and turn down the fan until the engine's warm, then up the temperature, too. Upping the temperature a little also enables an "EV limp" mode, where the ICE threshold is reduced to 1 bar, regardless of SOC. I get it when I'm cold, and want heat, but the engine's not warm enough. Holding 64F and EVing at 1 bar turns out to be a very efficient way to drive if your roads allow you to hold speed at 1 bar. Have fun, Frank

FWIW, the 2013 trip has elapsed time, so I've been calculating average speed for each fill-up all along. Seems my rural commuting route is ~33% highway! BTW, this gives the right answers; the posted version has "percent city" at the end. . % Hwy = 100*(Avg. Speed - 21) / (48-21) HAve fun, Frank

Perhaps my family has interesting names, I don't need to say much. "Call Marjorie" would ring my wife's cell phone if I didn't have our home phone in her listing. "Call Marjorie Cell" isn't much harder. How many "Annie's" do you have in your directory? List the veterinarian as "Vet" with one number and I bet "Call Vet" is all you need. In fact, I think I'll try removing the redundancy in my directory to see if it makes things easier. After all, #ICE is where your emergency contacts belong. Have fun, Frank

I'd like Ford's bigwigs to keep their heads right where they are. How soon we forget... https://projects.propublica.org/bailout/list In 2008, the economy went south and many companies borrowed money from the government to keep afloat. This list is sorted by the size of the initial bailout, so GM is #4, behind only Fannie Mae, Freddie Mac and AIG. Fiat Chrysler is #10. Neither has paid back the bailout. GM still owes $11.4B, compared with their 2014 R&D budget of $7.4B. You paid for GM to develop the Bolt, not GM's shareholders. Ford is not on that list. Ford's bigwigs stayed off the dole, without cutting R&D. They are to be commended, that four years later, they produced this wonderful drivetrain in the first place. There's no need for socialism if the capitalists just behave responsibly! Have fun, Frank

I started using increased tire pressures in 1980. That's the year I attended my first drivers' school, and the first thing they required all drivers to do was increase front tire pressures to the sidewall max. This was done for safety, so no one broke the bead seal in the hard cornering that was the purpose of the school. The explosive decompression of a tire when it comes off the bead is frequently followed by a roll-over when the bare wheel digs into the asphalt. I soon learned that was just the starting point. A little white shoe polish on the edge of the tire let you fine tune tire pressures so all four wheel had the same grip. I drove for years at 44 front, 35 rear, as that was my optimum. Eventually, I just brought the rears up to match the fronts, as a RWD car with a little oversteer is a lot of fun to drive. So here's my tire wear as of November, when I did the OEM/snow swap. I measure 9 points, IB-C-OB at three locations around the tire. There's a wiggle in the OEM data because I replaced a tire the second season, so I'm only tracking three. Given my driving style, I'm not complaining about a ~40K projection for both tires, which have been inflated to their sidewall rating since shortly after I inherited the car at 8K miles. Have fun, Frank

We all move on, eventually. I've appreciated your input, and thank you for your contributions. Frank

There's an old saying, "Don't ask the mouse what he thinks of the cheese." I would be very skeptical of "glowing" tire reviews of a house brand tire. These are Kumho Ecowing KH30's, according to this Nissan Leaf owner, but they're hard to find as Kumhos. The Leaf owner felt he had about a 10% hit on "efficiency" and would be happy to get within 5% of the Ecopia's he replaced. I don't recall the Ecopia's being as LRR as our OEMs, and a 5% difference is huge in Tire Rack tests. Gee, Plus already said that! Then there's the matter of style... I prefer the feel of a LRR car, and I love driving by gas stations. HAve fun, Frank

Have you updated it since 14E02? That's when I first noticed this change on start-up. And I have an warm-up operating mode you don't list. Per your stage criteria, S1a ends at the top of my street, perhaps 100 yards away, no more. - EV power in engage goes to zero, - charge carat switches from discharge to charge - engine speed rises and engine is louder, consistent with load. I'll pay attention on the cold days to see if S1a makes it around the corner. No way I'm near 40C that fast after a -10C night! And then there's the missing a mode. I would call it "limited EV" mode, characterized by S2 operation, but with a 1-bar ICE threshold that is independent of HVB charge level, but depends on coolant temperature. When using heat, this is the transition mode between S1b and S2, and one that transitions back and forth. As coolant temp falls in a glide, the threshold will drop to 1 bar before dropping to zero (ICE on). As coolant temp rises after a burn, the threshold will rise to the normal SOC-dependent 1-2 bars EV. Now, if I leave the heat at 60F, this doesn't happen, the car works as you describe. Once I'm in S2, bumping the heat even 2 degrees results in a 1-bar ICE threshold until the engine is warm enough, but it reverts when it cools. It makes for really long glides with a little throttle discipline, and really few EV miles without! Your thoughts? Frank

I thought you were being facetious, until I started looking at the service records. The tranny thing is interesting... I'm also a long service owner, who's wants lots of miles on the existing tranny. To that end, I think Ford's yearly PCM refresh is fine tuning the system's operation to avoid catastrophic failures. Bearing failure modes are well known, so I discount a major design flaw in favor of a usage pattern that promotes a failure. Taxi tranny failures were an early warning. PCM update effects are another. The biggest change I've seen is the inability to access ICE after a cold start. ICE runs, but no matter how low the battery, there's no ICE motive power until the top of my street. Seems like a good way to reduce stress on something until the engine warms... HAve fun, Frank

That explains why I expect a car battery to last 5-10 years... I live where they do!

While I'm impressed that the C-Max battery issues in these SE's were 3/4 under warranty, I also don't call this performance over 100K miles extreme. Continue it for the next 100K and I'll be impressed. Is that reasonable? Let's look at other hybrids (ignoring normal oil changes, tire rotations, etc.). 2015 Honda Accord, n=3 Nothing in 30K miles VW Jetta, n=4 66K radiator replaced 10K 12V battery replaced 40K spark plugs 49K battery monitoring control module and rerouted mk wiring to different power source due to vehicle not moving while in gear 7K towed, 12V battery replaced 9K 12V battery replaced 30K replace fuel injectors, fuel pump and pressure sensor, evap vent valve 32K replace evap purge valve 31K replace brake booster, booster sensor 31K (60 miles later) towed, replaced brake booster relay. 42K replaced spark plugs 44K replaced leaky oil plug 85K replaced spark plugs. 2013 Chevy Malibu, n=4 111K replaced battery control module 112K towed for dead battery, jump start 117K towed for dead battery, jump start 118K replace 12V battery 120K tighten battery cables and jump start 122K replaced front crankshaft seal 123K towed for flat tire (aftermarket TPMS), jump start, repair cable from battery to fuse block 4K replaced battery cooling fan 9K inspect generator control module - recall 24K replaced generator control module - recall 91K towed to shop, weak 12V battery 92K towed to shop, replaced 12V battery 93K replaced blower motor 99K replaced gas cap to clear "check engine" 120K BCM reprogrammed - recall 120K repaired key, broke off in ignition switch 126K flush AC, replace compressor, drier element and recharge 128K fixed drivers side door panel, resealed oil pan, replaced from cover gasket and crank seal ... and that's just two vehicles, the other two are similar. Clearly a 100K mile car! 2013 Honda Civic, n=4 28K AC compressor 100K wipers, air inlet cover, drive belt ,radiator hoses, thermostat 165K replace 12V battery 2011 Hyundai Sonata, n=2 Nearly identical and flawless, until 120K diagnosed for low 12V battery. Motor inverter fault, inverter shorted. Cost $10,000 Changed my mind. Our C-Maxs are EXTREMELY RELIABLE

I came across something on Ecomodder that's germane to this thread - an oil life analyzer. $50 bucks http://www.amazon.com/Lubricheck-Motor-Oil-Tester-Instantly/dp/B00HBAG9AC Cummins forum discussion. Temperature sensitivity is due to viscosity; see SAE paper. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-powertrain/563139-lubricheck-2.html And an SAE paper on what it's doing. The free preview gets you the gist of GM's approach. Mostly conductivity... http://papers.sae.org/2000-01-1366/ For those seeking an oil change interval that's based on actual oil data, this seems ideal! HAve fun, Frank

My 2013 has a lifetime mileage that was reset by the first PCM recall. The meager 41.9 is an artifact of a first winter taking the expressway every day...

I think that link has a place in this forum. If only so certain members can go ballistic over the mileage results.... 43 MPG over 108K miles, with 66% highway 42 MPG over 126K miles, with 71% highway 41 MPG over 112K miles, with 62% highway 42 MPG over 110K miles, with 62% highway ... at an average temperature of 84F, running the air conditioner 91% of the time! All four liked 40-50MPH the best, too. HAve fun, Frank

Exactly right; very well done! Thanks for the lesson.

Not necessarily. Well, you and I may be of that opinion, but there is room for variations in preference, and in this case, I suspect a lot of ear training. We're talking about what's known as a "house curve" or in theater terms, the "X-curve." used as the target when equalizing theater audio frequency response. The first link shows a lot of target curves, all with the same downward slope, left to right. Clearly, there's a common trend to increased bass and reduce treble levels. The second link is a retrospective on theatrical frequency response standards, showing a wide range of variation over the years, even if today's EQ standard is quite mild. The point is that someone accustomed to a very extreme house curve, as one commonly hears coming from car audio systems, thinks that's the way it's supposed to sound. Who are we to say otherwise, as long as their systems are inaudible to us, and our insurance doesn't pay for their hearing aids. Have fun, Frank

You guys are discussing arithmetic mean vs. geometric mean. This only works when comparing similar things, like "trips of equal length." I just calculated my daily average mileage for different length trips. - morning commute was 20.6 miles achieving 46.3 MPG. - evening commute was 15.4 miles achieving 56.0 MPG. Arithmetic average is 51.15 Geometric average is 50.869 True average is 50.000 I used 0.72 gal. to go 36 miles. That ratio is the true average mileage. The precision was serendipitous. HAve fun, Frank, who actually has fun with numbers. (Not so much flags.)

You've linked to a very different tire. I've run Conti snows many years and so was interested in these as a snow-capable all-season tire. The tread wear indicators are in a dry-wet-snow (DWS) series, each showing when tread depth has reached the point of diminishing returns under those conditions. Fortunately, there's a test report comparing them with the new Michelin Premier A/S. Same fuel use for Premier as for the Conti; the LRR winner was the P7. Given it's also got excellent wet and dry handling, I'd certainly consider them. Have fun, Frank

The alleged fuel-saving roll bar is actually removal of the roll bar in favor of active stability control. "Also adopting 48V technology is an electromechanical active roll control that replaces the hydraulically controlled anti-roll bars now in general use, reducing fuel consumption and emissions and simplifies vehicle assembly."

The rest of the cover is on the shop floor... or were you looking for a long shot? It's in my gallery, as I didn't greek my license plate. Seems to heat faster, but it's been hard to measure shivers/minute... Frank

Trying a second time... 5W20 API SN is the right oil in terms of industry standards. The WSS-M2C945-A Ford standard you show is correct per the 2013 owners' manual, with an alternate published in the 2015 manual for 0W20 weight, WSS-M2C947-A. Have fun, Frank

As you're learning, when someone asks what kind of mileage I get, my standard answer is " somewhere between 30 and 60 MPG." Your may be even more extreme... Frank

Duplicate.

Mine is on... After some mods. I wanted to keep my license plate holder, and use a positive attachment, not glue/Velcro. My grill is blacked out with PlastiDip, and I didn't want to remove it under every pad. I fit it in the recess with fingers between grill ribs. I had some plastic standoff rivets like under the hood so its still removable, but not going anywhere! Also filled with 91E0, so lets see how I do in cold this year! Have fun, Frank