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Barring chipmunks, and assuming 50% EV, I'd expect a nearly pristine air filter at 20K miles. And remember, an older filter is a better filter. The only true failure mode, barring damage, is increased pressure drop across the filter. With fuel injection, increased pressure drop is a non-issue - no effect on fuel consumption. To quote Oak Ridge National Lab: "Results show that clogging the air filter has no significant effect on the fuel economy ... Acceleration performance on all vehicles was improved with a clean air filter." The hot-rodders and racers in the group need clean air filters. However, there's a tradeoff... "performance" filters offer the promise of reduced pressure drop from T=0, without a loss of filtration efficiency. That's bunk. The data in this report: "This illustrates the apparent trade-offs between optimizing a filter for dirt capturing ability and maximum airflow" And the reason filtration efficiency is important is found in oil analysis. Silicon in the oil is a sign of poor filtration efficiency, as the only source is environmental. The rest of us, especially us hybrid drivers with our low RPM CVTs, may want to consider selecting filters based on filtration efficiency, load capacity, and the ability to support extended air filter change intervals, especially with a filter as hard to access as this one. I suspect the Ford filter performance would mirror that AC-Delco's. I'm pushing 40K miles and I'm nowhere near ready to change the filter. My oil reports show Si falling as the filter ages. Although at these levels, that may be normal variation, there's comfort in the downward trend. Have fun, Frank

I have to ask if this was a change, or a sample? You didn't get TBN, so it's no good as an indicator, and your Fe is half the prior level. I would expect %Fuel to be run-mode dependent (lots of highway = low, lots of stop/start - high), but iron should just climb with time, and mine's on the high side. Thanks for contributing your car's data! It would be a lot easier to identify problems if we had a bunch of cars... some engines run high in iron, yet have a great reputation! Have fun, Frank

This is curious... two US-spec 2013 Ice Storm SELs, one with DRL, the other without. It seem no one remembers the complaint thread of all the people who wanted DRL but didn't have them. Canadian drivers, of course, had DRL. Fleet buyers had a choice... As stevedebi notes, Ford dealers can turn them on, or off, usually for a fee. Mine are off, and I like it that way. Headlights at night are a far greater issue for astronomers than movie-goers. Aux time out is a far greater issue for movie-goers, in my book, so I have a separate sound system for drive-ins. Have fun, Frank

Welcome, and here are a couple things to consider about the battery. Ford published results of a "key life test" for both NiMH (Prii) and Li-ion (Ford). Curves are test data, points are real-world battery life data. http://www.designnews.com/author.asp?doc_id=256425&dfpPParams=ind_184,industry_auto,bid_318,aid_256425&dfpLayout=blog Given NiMH exceed the test prediction, and Li-ion are predicted to have a much slower decline, I'm not worried. Don't discount #2. I have heard rumors of Toyota having large numbers of Prii HVBs fail over the extremely cold winter. Was told there were dealerships with lots full of cars waiting on batteries (under warranty, btw). I won't repeat unsubstantiated rumors, and I could find no confirming news reports at the time, so I never mentioned it. Get to know the engine displays. I realize that Inform, Enlighten, Engage, and Empower are really strange names for a dashboard, but the associated data displays have everything you need... if you set up My View correctly. I'm with you; need to know engine speed and coolant temperature. You can get both in My View. - I drive with Empower, for the EV threshold bar (blue outline), so I can stay in EV if I want EV, and get ICE going when that's needed. - My View is below Empower, with tach and coolant temp - Engage is above Empower, and it's unique in showing the split of EV vs. ICE torque. This is where you see the warm-up routine that, upon start-up, will run the engine but only use the battery to move the car. You've already realized the biggest thing is how you drive it, so enjoy! HAve fun, Frank

The restyle was an EU-only thing initially... but we may see it in 2016. http://www.caranddriver.com/news/2016-ford-c-max-hybrid-previewed-by-refreshed-euro-c-max-news Frank

We inherited this car at 8K, and the oil was changed the first time at 5.6K, similarly short the expected 10K interval. That interval has been met by the three oil changes I've done, and with oil analysis to show the oil was still. in-spec. You're safe to reset the counter, as several have suggested. Frank

Use your AC charger; there's 115VAC on the back of the armrest. And welcome! Neat story... Frank

Mobil 1 has become a market as much as a brand! https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us/pvl/files/pdfs/mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide.pdf

I'm using an oil change pump to sample through the dip stick. No dealer requests involved. I guess I could sample the oil mid-interval, before I actually change it, but why? I don't see anything in the data that suggests the internal monitor's intervals are off. At three samples, any pattern is just starting to form. Iron is a concern, but my research shows there are some motors that show iron in the oil but still provide may years of service. We've had tranny issues reported, but nothing comparable with the ICE... maybe we should be analyzing tranny oil! HAve fun, Frank

While there are places you don't want to go, most of the car interior is benign. This looks like metal structure supporting the rear quarter which should be fine with mechanical stresses (within limits). If you do a wrap-around, be aware that internal metal stampings may have sharp edged that could cut through over time. A magnetic attachment would be ideal if you can get enough holding force (scroll down)... Have a look here for some ideas; I even see a carabiner-based approach, so you're not far off! http://www.mcmaster.com/#mountable-cable-holders/=ylc5gr And be aware that McMaster Carr sells everything, so be careful when you shop... Frank

... is a 1966 Volvo P1800. Our cars are too new??? I've been doing oil analysis since the second change, and just posted the latest data. Intervals are about 10K and the TBN data says there's not much left in the oil at that point. We'll see if actual premium brand oil works any differently. Have fun, Frank

PORTER-072515.pdf Time to add data for change #3. These reports are cumulative, so you can see any trends. - first two changes (to 25K) were Ford 5W20 semi-synthetic - just dumped 0W20 full synthetic, in a Parts Plus store brand (thanks dealership) - installed 0W20 Mobil 1 Fuel Economy The report mentions iron level and % fuel in the oil. I can understand a hybrid having more fuel in the oil, especially since recent tanks have all been 70+% EV miles. It's possible the iron's "hybrid normal" as well, given the constant start/stop operation. If there were something wrong, I'd expect something else to be rising, as iron is rarely used in unalloyed form. I don't see anything... Onward, to the next change! Have fun, Frank PS here's some background on the analysis http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/ http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/used-oil-analysis-how-to-decide-what-is-normal/

The Deltran might come in handy if you had an SE with the 12v battery problem, but barring that... Remember, the starter's also an 88KW generator, and there's a 330V 1.5KWh battery in back. The 12v battery just activates electronics... I love this car in winter, mainly for the visibility. The combination of high seating position and short nose mean very little light scattered back toward the driver in a snowstorm. I can't speak to the OEM tire's in snow as I run Michelin X-Ice in 215/60-16 size on Ford Steel wheels. You will not find the car at home on unplowed roads, and it's no 4x4 when it comes to a slick hill (Cuba's not exactly flat). Your winter mileage will suck because it's cold and the engine wants to be warm, even if you're made of hardier stock (I'm not). That's when a block heater is worth it's weight, but not for what Ford wants to retrofit one. I'm still considering a coolant hose-based retrofit, and one member's done quite a bit (pjones) on heat and temperature of various components. Do a search. Which will also find his work on brill blocks, and their effect on engine/tranny temp... Let me close by linking to a reply I just posted that gets into the hybrid operational side... lots of things to learn here if you're interested! Have fun, Frank

Getting back on topic.... I found this kind of view helpful. Knowing how the energy moves around allows you to "play the hybrid game" and improve your fuel economy. Moving left to right... - You have energy stored as gasoline in your tank. - The internal combustion engine (ICE) can convert that energy into motion (kinetic energy) or it can convert the energy into electricity (charge the battery). - The wild card is terrain - potential energy - as going up and down hills stores and releases kinetic energy. - The price you pay is in parasitic losses, rolling resistance (constant) and aerodynamic drag (varies as speed squared). The "game" is learning when to run the ICE so you spend the most time in EV and use the least fuel. In any round trip, all energy comes from the fuel, so the more efficiently you can use it, the less you need. From a settings standpoint: - use brake assist to learn the regen brake's threshold, as the only real waste is turning fuel into hot friction brakes. - use EV+, so you can use less fuel near common destinations (and store the high voltage battery (HVB) in a favorable state) - use "Empower" display on the left of the dash. The blue outline is how much EV you have available, so you can adjust the throttle to stay out of ICE, or start a burn, as needed. - use "My View" with a tachometer and an engine coolant temperature display. The tach helps you control engine speed, while monitoring engine temp is helpful understanding the car's behavior in cold weather. Warm-up is a harsh mistress... Have fun, Frank

I suspect there are concerns for transmission reliability when towing... and the tranny issues folks report, would seem to bear this out (mostly highway driving, which requires more power). Then again, all things wear, your car/driving style combination will have a service life. If part of that's towing, just don't let Ford know. Mine has a hitch, but more for accessories (bike rack, cargo platform). Frank

Given you have a large faction highway, and there have been transmission failures seen with 2013's that drive a lot of highway, I'd discount the 2013's. Mine was delivered 10/1/12, but I'm not doing much highway driving with it, so I'm not concerned. Here's a thread on build dates. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/5288-build-date-for-ecvt-that-have-failed/?do=findComment&comment=58883 Now, I don't think we've had many out-of-warranty failures, and it's possible software/firmware updates have addressed the transmission reliability issue, but it's something to consider when anticipating high highway mileage. Have fun, Frank

I never realized my battery life expectations were skewed!! Frank

Years ago, we hosted the BMWW CCA Octoberfest in Rochester. A buddy said his favorite car was a 324tdiX... 4wd diesel 3-series. Too bad they never sold it. Frank

You have a C-Max Hybrid in Poland? Thought the hybrid was a US-only model... or do you have a US-spec car? I suspect if the ambient temps are very high, the battery may avoid high charge levels, as the combination of high ambient temperature and full charge shortens Li=ion battery life. There are cooling fans for the battery; are they running? Perhaps a driving style that features a lot of short burns and glides, so you only use the available charge? Won't work on long hills.... Have fun, Frank

+1 Hard to beat a diesel at highway speeds Hard to beat a hybrid electric around town. Frank

Yep! I bet you've got auto-wipers, right? I don't worry until it falls off... right up there with the cargo area carpet glue! Frank

I should know that, thanks for pointing it out. Frank

Have you cleaned your reverse camera lately? There's a reverse beeper on every C-Max. It's not activated by gear selection but rather objects in the reverse camera. If the lens is dirty, the alarm sounds. Happens all the time in winter (salt) up here. I now give it a quick thumb wipe whenever I close the rear hatch. Have fun, Frank

My $0.02... I never swap sides, only front-rear when swapping the snows, and near Thanksgiving and Easter, regardless the mileage. Been doing this for decades, having learned the hard way to keep sides straight when autocrossing (weekly tire swaps) as the alternative gave me a bad shimmy. Then again, I don't slow down any more than necessary when corning, so I consider 40K miles a very good result. Were I more gentle, rotation direction might not matter, and perhaps cupping would. It's clear that your mileage may vary. HAve fun, Frank

On one hand, your mods are benign, except the headlights, On the other, none of them impact performance except the air ride, and that won't do much by itself. Things to consider if you'd like mileage in the 100's...it is an Energi, after all. - front grill block on all three grills - front air dam - side skirts (to make the air ride a functional improvement) - wheel fairings - (lots more stuff here.) I'd love to suggest the Focus rear spoiler, but we haven't found anything to do to the back of the car that's helpful. Several folks have added vortex generators, but no one's proven they help. I can't prove the air dam or skirts help either, but the grill bocks are well documented improvements. The biggest variable is you, the driver. 50+MPG is good for a Hybrid, but poor for an Energi. You've clearly found the loud pedal has great response because electric motors have all their torque at low RPM. Our focus has been minimizing fuel use, and the mods I suggest all go in that direction. Finally a word on high color temperature headlights. You made a bad choice if you want to drive this car at night. You are blinding oncoming traffic, regardless how well you aim them, and you will be blinded the first time you hit fog as high color temperature fogs are also useless. What you've missed is - color temperature - scattering. The higher the color temperature, the more light is scattered. That's why the sky is blue, and sunsets are red, even though the sun defines white light. In fog, your headlights will produce a wall of white as all the blue energy is scattered back toward you, and your fog lights will make it worse. A rational approach to headlight upgrades keeps the headlights no bluer than sunlight, 5K-6K color temperatures, and the fog lights in the 2.5K-3K range. You get true white light, not the bluish "PC monitor white" you have now, and these fog lights will help you see better. So, your car may look cool to you, but it screams a different message to me. Have fun, Frank