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For my part, I'd recommend a used SEL over a new SE, just based on the absence of 12v battery issues reported by SEL owners. Most of the lemon-law buy-backs discussed on the forum have been for 12v battery issues, although that's died down... it may not be an issue in a new SE. I've got an October 2012 SEL that's only cost me for gas and oil in the first 32K (and a tire I can't blame on Ford). As to HV battery life... some folks will always find problems, and are not swayed by data to the contrary. http://www.designnews.com/author.asp?doc_id=256425&dfpPParams=ind_184,industry_auto,bid_318,aid_256425&dfpLayout=blog Do a search for "ford key life test" for additional links, but this is the one with the data. The key finding is "batteries generally do better in the field than they do on tests." I don't know your personal background or training, but I'm guessing from your "location" you've spent more time in the gym than in a lab, took more PE courses than STEM courses. That can lead to an unhealthy skepticism, unhealthy in the sense that if you haven't been trained to analyze data, it becomes hard to tell truth from fiction. Fear and ignorance go hand-in-hand. We humans once cowered when "the gods" rained thunder down from the skies. Now we only cower when that thunder comes from a comma-shaped cloud, with a funnel forming in the distance (assuming proper lightening protection on our dwellings). At the same time, while skepticism always allows one to accept or reject data-based conclusions, it includes the burden of proof when rejecting those conclusions. Until the HVB life skeptics show us some data, I'll accept Ford's data, and the conclusion that the HVB will outllast most of the drivetrain. We now have several high-mileage drivers in the 50-100K mile range, and it looks like pjones is still trying to achieve new personal best range-without-refueling,breaking the 1000-mile barrier, despite his car's high mileage. Of course, it's well known that cars get better mileage when well broken in, a fact that's not lost on Paul... Have fun, Frank

Priorities vary. Edgeskeez already has a roof rack, so it's not likely that high mileage is his priority. I expect these wheels have a small effect compared with a roof rack, or the expected rolling resistance hit from the Yokos (OEMs are among the lowest of the LRR tires available). That said, it must be noted that these are small effects that shoud not make or break your finances. In Tire Rack's 2009 test, the difference between best and worst rolling resistance tire was about 7%. You're still using less fuel by driving a hybrid. Have fun, Frank

As long as you have access to a charging station, the Energi will cool down before you get in it, using electrons instead of gasoline. Same with warming in winter (it gets cold up here). Seems like another great advantage to the plug-in, the only downside I see being trunk space. Granted, that can be a big downside... and you may not have access to a charging station. Have fun, Frank

I was thinking on the cheap... but then, IR pyrometers are cheap these days, and you really don't want to touch a fine optic! Frank

Anyone else seeing the "arrow-10x10.png" links to post #1 sprinkled through Paul's post? Paul, any idea if you did something? just asking... Frank

Any chance there's something selected under "Other?" You can also filter by time; I keep mine on "Content I have not read" with nothing selected under "Other." HAving been "forgotten" several times, if you're not logged in, you get an error page. HAve fun, Frank

Paul Have you got a thermocouple laying around the shop that you can tape to the lines to get an independent temperature reading? For that matter, how about some temperature tape? We use stuff that turns in the 400F range, and a qhich Google search yields this link. http://www.amazon.com/Generic-138-1208-Dishwasher-Temperature-Thermolabel/dp/B00O19C3XS After all, the real question is if the tranny's too hot to last... Have fun, Frank

It'll be interesting to see if they honor Walmart, as they're no on the list Mobil published... Same with Autozone... may be why they wouldn't extend the offer to 0W20! Frank

+1 I see no change when mounting or dismounting snows, just the normal temperature effect. Mileage comparison summer v winter tires.pdf This data is from a rural route with little traffic, zoomed in on the temperature range where both snows and summer tires were used at the same ambient temperatures. I see no shift in mileage; the trend lines for each case overlap. HAve fun, Frank PS I know it's not 2104...

That's because you're adding peak values that can never co-exist at any given time. An ICE has a rising torque curve, an electric motor a falling curve with RPM. That makes them complementary - one makes power in the RPM range where the other doesn't. I can't find a good explanation for the rest of it, though. HAve fun, Frank

Not to worry, this is just a thaw... they happen occassionally. Spring's a bit of a tease as you move north! Frank

If you got the vents out, you're a better man than I... How's pin stripe tape look? The trick with masking tape and Plastidip spray is scoring the desired paint margin before removing the masking tape, or the tape brings the Plastidip with it. Tape would eliminate this issue, and would likely be an easier way to black out the other bright spots. I used a black paint pen on the vent flap controls, and directional tab, applied after the picture. I'd love a better way... HAve fun, Frank

I used lots of masking tape and newspaper... they don't come out easily! Frank

Very much so! No one can serve two masters, not even engineers... "Engineering" can be defined as the science of picking the right tradeoffs between conflicting requirements and capabilities. Car companies seek tradeoffs that will spur sales and maximize profits, the latter requiring risk analysis and mitigation if they're to keep the money they make. As a result, any publish tire pressure must will work with all tires, not just their OEM choice, for all uses and conditions, as well as all drivers and driving styles. When they get risk analysis wrong, and owners follow the placard, you get the chain of events discussed in post #32. When an owner takes responsibility for their car, based on specific and detailed information the car manufacturer can't know, you get posts like those on this thread suggesting that about 50psi is a good place to set tire pressures with the OEM tires. Have fun, Frank, whose been known to ignore sidewall pressure ratings when the application warranted.

I made no assumptions regarding valve timing, beyond the standard Atkinson reduction, 10% less intake displacement than exhaust, and 50% of the total for a 4-stroke. It'd be interesting if they had modes other than Atkinson, max pumping loss (for donwhill assist), and closed (no pumping loss). Frank

Blackstone does tranny fluid, too. (as may oher vendors) http://www.blackstone-labs.com/transmission.php Frank

To quote the end of Adrian's link: The Michelin report concludes, “The key learning is that inflation pressure affects the tire-vehicle interaction, and the only correct inflation pressure for proper balanced performance is what is specified by the vehicle manufacturer on the placard." For those who may not be immediately aware, that's written by a lawyer, not an engineer, so it's substantially false. The real "key learning" was to reduce financial risk to the tire manufacturer by never answering the question. Every tire company says the same thing, in hopes that you sue the car maker, not them. As kblast notes, the "correct inflation pressure ... specified by the vehicle manufacturer" is what got Ford Explorer drivers killed. Do we really need graphic pictures of high speed rollover accidents as counterpoint to uneven tire? Frank, who reads specs from sidewalls, not placards.

He'd already been banned once, as I recall, and the "time out" didn't make a differenece. It's unfortunate that a valued poster would devalue their contribution to this extent, but the forum is better off, as a whole, for it. Frank

And the answer is: Volumetric efficiency - how efficiently the engine exchanges air Manifold air pressure - how much is the engine being throttled? plus a little for RPM. This calculation doesn't work for diesels, as they aren't throttled and have no need to maintain the stochiometric ratio, but rather run so lean the engine can't go any faster. thanks, Frank

Thanks! My Media has the pics, so, yes, I posted on this, but... searching for posts I made containing "plastidip" only finds this thread. Older posts appear to be inaccessible. Frank

The wrench symbol came on regularly when ours was new. The issue was the seal on the cap-less fuel fill port. The fix was to use the little funnel in the trunk to open and close the port, allowing it to seal. Haven't seen that wrench in over a year. As to engine codes, you don't need to go anywhere, you just need to start the car in "engineeeirng mode." Record the codes and take them with you to the dealer, if you think there's a real problem. Engineering Test Mode When starting hold the ok button on the left of the steering wheel and start the car. In the left panel you will have the test mode which you can scroll with the up and down arrow keys Have fun, Frank

+1 Thus my foray into Plastidip... Frank

Where do you get 0.2 gph? I get more like 1.5 gph! Engine intake displacement per revolution - 900cc, 0.9L, so 900L/miinute @ 1000 RPM Air has a mass density of 1.2 kg/m^3 @ 20C (68F), and 1 m^3 = 1000L, so @ 1000 RPM, the car pumps 1.08 kg of air per minute. Emissions controls require that fuel is added based on the stochiometric ratio for an air-gasoline mixture, 14.7:1, so that's 0.073kg of fuel per miinute. From there, it's a simple matter of units conversion: - based on fuel density of 0.775 kg/L , it's 0.095 L/minute, and - based on 0.264 L/gallon, it's 0.025 gallons/minute and so 1.5 gallons/hour @ 1000 RPM What am I missing that we differ by a factor of 10? Have fun, Frank

Not likely in your case, but in severe cold, the car will not discharge the HVB directly. By severe, I mean an overnight low below 0F. It was -14F last night, and after 20 miles of ICE running at highway speeds, EV+ would only give me 1.5 bars with ~80% SOC. I never had enough EV available to do any gliding at highway speeds, even downhill, foot off the throttle. Bested the last couple days by using negative split mode extensively, for a 35MPG highway commute, up from 32.5 when EV was available (similar ambient temps while driving, same route). It's all about the overnight cold soak this February, which is on track for the coldest month on record here. This winter's been postiviely Canadian, eh! HAve fun, Frank

This is best handled by PMs to the moderator. As a general forum rule, here and elsewhere, there is no point to feeding trolls. Ignore what you don't find appropriate, and when it becomes intolerable, PM the moderator. We all have bad days, we've all hit "send" when we shouldn't, but consistent poor behavior is not our problem to address. Have fun, Frank