mtberman

Second that. Another indicator of availability is the build date on the window sticker. If you're a thousand miles from Michigan and see a car online with a a build date less than 3 weeks ago, chances are that it's not really there. Another good indicator is your dealer's local website, versus the Ford site or regional (e.g. or ThinkFordNow or FordDirect) sites. Also, your dealer may have cars that aren't on the internet at all. That's how I got my Ford Escape Hybrid when they were on back order: I saw it on the lot and went in. Turns out it had been ordered as "fleet" in error and was therefore not listed in inventory. The same will be true of a car like the gray C Max SEL that I ordered in Denver. It's listed as "special order" and will only be found by someone that calls the dealer or goes in, and gets lucky enough to get a sales person who knows the car is there.

I just picked mine up and have only driven it a few times so far. My mileage stands at around 42. I learned right away that it really depends on how I drive it. I can spend significant periods in EV mode at 45-60 MPH just by glancing at the Empower display now and then. One trip to the airport including a long stretch of 65 MPH highway and I got about 37 MPG. On the next trip I made a point to stay at 60 MPH and notived the car in EV mode a lot. On that leg I got 44. It's important to note, too, that Consumer Reports is by no means an accurate source. They've frequently recorded significant mileage discrepancies in other hybrids, particularly Toyota products. But they have never seen fit to go public and issue a press release about a specific car or brand before. Their "city" test revealed a 19 MPG deficit when they tested the Toyota Prius C, but they never said boo about that. It doesn't pass the smell test.

California gets way more of these cars. It's a huge, important market. Checking inventory for a ZIP code in LA will often reveal many dealers with between 30 and 40 C Maxs listed. This doesn't necessarily mean the cars are there, but you can find that part out by looking at each particular dealer's website. Cars appear as 'dealer ordered' soon after the window sticker is available, before they're even built. Once built and shipped, the 'dealer ordered' thing drops off but the car is still weeks away at that point. It can be a little frustrating. Most of you who are waiting for cars could probably have flown to LA and picked up a car weeks ago. On one hand, I wish Ford placed a higher priority on special order cars. On the other hand, I see why they don't.

All hybrids do this, but the surprising thing is how aggressive this behavior is in the C Max. I had a 2004 Prius for two years and a 2008 Escape Hybrid for two years. Also, we have newer Priuses and several 2010 Camry Hybrids at my work, which I drive from time to time. None of these other cars hybrids ever go/went into engine-off mode as quickly as the C Max.

I read somewhere here that HVAC is a big drag on mileage. It seems whoever said that was right. Makes me wonder if they have the HVAC system off when they do EPA certification. My car lives in an underground garage in the city, so fortunately it's always at least 55° when I start it. Like other hybrids I've owned, the car does an engine-on + rich-mixture + heavy-generator-load thing for about three minutes after cold start. I understand this makes for super hot exhaust to light up the catalyst. For me, this phase gets me out of my garage, down an alley, and out onto the street for about two blocks. It also produces noticeable exhaust steam if it's cold outside, and adds quite a bit of charge to the battery. What's surprised me most is that my car then goes into EV mode. This is after perhaps 3 blocks of city driving. Neither of my previous hybrids were anywhere near as aggrssive with EV mode. However, and this is the kicker, it does this only if I make sure the HVAC system is off. Otherwise the engine doesn't start cycling on/off for a couple of miles, similar to other hybrids I've owned. Needless to say, the difference in fuel mileage is significant. We're talking 45 MPG vs. 30 MPG for a 3 mile journey from a cold start. So, does anyone know if the EPA leaves the heating system on or off when they test? It sure makes a big MPG difference in my experience.

Got a car finally. Sterling Gray SEL, 303A package + pano roof. I wanted the 302A car + roof, but there were simply none within 500 miles. I don't really need parking assist but perhaps I'll use it at some point, since I live in an urban setting. There were simply no 302A + pano roof SEL cars in gray or silver. Not a single one in the entire multi-state region surrounding Colorado. So we started looking for a 303A package + roof, and found two gray cars due in early January. A nearby dealer wouldn't commit, but finally an out-of-state dealer agreed to a trade. I was able to sign papers on Jan 2, the last possible date to take advantage of $1750 in Ford discounts, and they delivered the car yesterday. Lucky to have a good dealer. Meanwhile, just got an update on the car I originally ordered back on 11/24: Model: C-Max SEL, Sterling Gray, 302A pkg + pano roof thingy Date Ordered: Saturday, 11/24/12 Promised Delivery time: 8 to 10 Weeks VIN Available: 12/13/12 Window Sticker Available: 1/15/13 Scheduled Build Week: 1/21/13-1/26/13 Scheduled Build Date: 1/22/13 Actual Build Date: not yet Released from Factory for Shipping: no Estimated Delivery Date: n/a Actual Delivery Date: State: CO

Just viewed an online window sticker for a 2013 C Max SEL with the 303A package. The build date is this coming Saturday, January 19. It listed the package price as $3080 and the "Equipment Group Saving" as $300. The package savings was previously $585. That's a $285 price increase on the bottom line. Anyone else notice this or any other changes? Those with cars on order would of course have price protection.

This problem isn't a glitch or defect. To override automatic settings and increase the fan speed noticeably, you may need to manually set the fan. Press the larger fan button (the upper of the two) repeatedly until you see the higher fan speed displayed. Turning the system on/off doesn't necesarily engage the fan at a speed that's high enough to notice, especially if the system hasn't had a few minutes to stabilize or (as the other poster said) if the coolant isn't hot enough.

I usually don't chime in on tire pressure threads, oil change threads, or "octane" threads becasue there is so much mis-information out there about these topics. Usually the best advice is usually to just follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Regarding tire pressure, I admit that I used to think that running a few pounds more pressure made a difference. I no longer feel that way. I've tested this in several different cars and it was my experience that it just created more tire noise and/or made the handling worse.

This has happened to us with my Audi, also on a grocery store run. In our case we had just gotten home and were unloading. It went something like this: Person #1 grabs bags out of the back and starts walking away. Person #2 grabs the remaining bags and presses the "close" button, but Person #1 didn't really walk away. Instead, they stopped and turned back toward the car. Despite Person #2 yelling something brilliant like "Look Out!!", Person #1 returns just in time to make contact with the lowering hatch, which is now right at head level. Fortunately there was no blood, but I do recall some cursing and a dirty look. Lesson Learned: Always make sure everybody, including pets that like to suddenly leap into the car, are well clear of the hatch before you press that button.

The dead 12V battery issue discussed elsewhere has nothing to do with leaving accessories on. That's a defect. If you want to listen to the radio in the C Max, you can just turn it on. Keep in mind that, like all (or almost all) Fords, the C Max has a "battery saver". If you leave the radio on or leave a door open for more than 20 minutes or so, everything (lights and audio) shuts off automatically after about 20 minutes to prevent battery run-down. I don't think this is anything new. My 1994 Taurus SHO and my 2008 Ford Escape Hybrid both had the battery saver feature. The only time it's really noticeable is when you're waiting for someone for a long time, or if you leave the hatch/trunk lid open for a long time. If the lights and/or radio go off automatically and you want to turn them back on, you can re-set the battery saver by opening/closing any door or trunk/hatch, or by turning the car on and then back off again. The C Max with navigation may have a shorter cycle time, and might require a key on/key off cycle to do this, since the navigation's GPS consumes a lot of power. I haven't looked but there's got to be something about this in the manual. It's probably under "battery saver" but might be in the radio section.

Clearly you've never owned a Prius or frequented a Prius forum! Or a Ford Escape hybrid forum. This is all pretty normal compared to those people. you see, there's a whole subculture dedicated to the topic of "hypermiling", and they've been at it for years. Some drive their cars around with a Scangauge mounted on the dash, literally monitoring fuel flow and fuel injector activity to see exactly when fuel flow stops. It's simultaneously fascinating and a little strange to hear what they have to say, and to see just how obsessed some folks get about milking the last possible MPG out of a hybrid. Engine monitoring, grill blocking, drafting, folding in the rear view mirrors, you name it. They've tried it all. You're probably right that these aren't your average drivers. More like hobbyists. Interesting to hear about it all, though.

Yes this works. As the other person mentioned, it's not technically recommended and proper ventilation is important. Back in '04 or '05 there were huge traffic jams in the south when folks were evacuating before a hurricane. I don't recall the specifics but it may have been around Houston. It might even have been for Katrina. People were stuck in their cars for hours in some cases. Anyway, I remember stories posted on the Prius forums from people who were in those jams in their Prius, which at the time was the only car with an electric AC compressor and automatic stop-start. These people were able to stay in their cars with the AC on and their laptops and cell phones plugged in and only burned a few gallons of fuel, while people all around them were running out of gas and getting stranded.

That's great news. Keep us posted. Did they give you a VIN or any info? Looking back through your posts, it's clear that some of what this dealer's said is simply false. I don't think they're trying to be misleading. The sales person is probably getting bad info from his or her manager. Remember to keep your sense of humor about the shifting stories. Take it all with a smile and a grain of salt. It can be really frustrating when a dealer keeps doing that Charlie Brown thing where they coax you into kicking the ball, only to pull it away at the last minute. Don't let it get to you; It's just how a lot of dealers operate.

This is similar to the experience I had with my first new hybrid, a 2004 Prius that I bought in late 2003. That car saw 60+ repair days in 25 months of ownership. Mileage was inconsistent and typically 10 MPG to 15 MPG below the sticker. Many squeaks & rattles. Instrument panel replaced twice. Faulty fuel gauge, also twice. Exterior paint and tape finishes peeled off. Console came apart, also twice. Plastic tail lights melted in the inside and stopped working. Check engine light, countless times. Poor alignment and a highway driving experience that was downright dangerous. It would just lurch across your lane, even after several alignments. I don't recall how many service bulletin jobs and recalls, either, but there were many. The Toyota dealer staff did what they could, which was say 'sorry' and book another appointment . Fortunately for me, gas prices had spiked, and in December of 2005 there was a waiting list to buy a new Prius. Mine had only 10,000 miles on it and I'd paid $25,000 two years earlier. I got $20,000 in trade and was happy to see it go. My point is this: Don't make the same mistake that I did. Learn about your state's Lemon Law and exercise your rights if you think the car is defective. In most states, you just have to show that they have tried and failed to fix the same problem at least three times. But you have to document it and then send them a formal request. It's not that hard; you don't need a lawyer. Most makers will offer to refund your money or replace the car if you're patient and follow the process.

Um yeah. Thieves are too lazy to climb on top of a car and try to break a piece of thick laminated glass where there are thin, easily breakable side windows within easy reach. Heat is not a factor either. In fact, quite the opposite: The glass reflects more heat than a regular metal roof.

+ 1 re: highway driving. For lots of miles esp highway, consider a diesel first. A good second choice would be the "eco" version of the Focus or Cruze. With tall gearing and a few other tweaks (low rolling resistance tires, aero aids) those cars can do real-world 40+ MPG highway running regular gas. Not that the OP made a bad choice. I mean, the C Max drives great on the highway and it says 47 MPG on the window. No one can be blamed for likng that, especially considering that most cars will get pretty close to the sticker mileage these days. I don't blame you at all for being disappointed and frustrated. For some perspective: I owned a 2004 Prius for just over two years. This was before the 2008 MPG revisions. It said 60 MPG city/51 MPG hwy on the sticker. The car was introduced in late 2003 (I took delivery in late November), and within a few weeks the forums were ablaze with people who were ticked off that they were getting 38-44 MPG driving their new Priuses around in January. It all kind of blew over once spring arrived.

Please. This mileage thing is nothing new. And why was this not a problem back in 2003 and 2004? You know, back when no one was getting anywhere near the EPA rated mileage in their new Priuses? It was all over the internet forums but Consumer Reports didn't seem to notice or care all that much. Toyota just said that YMMV depending on factors like weather, how you drive, and so forth. Same thing as today, only without all the finger pointing and lawsuits. The only difference was that, back then, people looked at me and my Prius as some sort of science experiment. No one cared that it dropped to 32 MPG when the temperature was below freezing. Consumer Reports' Toyota Prius C only got 34 MPG in their "city MPG" test. It's rated at 53. That's 19 MPG below what the sticker says. Soooo... Where is the outrage about that?

Great news for buyers, Ford will continue to offer a cash incentive on the C Max after January 2, 2013. I was told that they generally ratchet down rebates on popular cars, rather than stopping them, in order to avoid throwing a wet blanket on sales momentum. The amount will drop from $1000 to $750. It expires on April 3.

Yes, ask them to look on the Vehicle Visibility Report. If the order has been "pulled" and is in the Ford system, there should be a VIN and a status. The status usually starts as "scheduled to week xx/xx/2013", with the date being the first day of the build-it week. Next, the status should change to "scheduled to date January XX", with that date being the tentative build-it day. I was told that these statuses update every Thursday, and so far that has matched my experience. If you ordered the car more than, say, 30 days ago, then the dealer is doing something wrong. A properly placed, successful order should have a VIN and be in the Ford system within about two weeks. Three weeks at the most.

Lucky me, I got a car (sort of). We're getting a car that was just delivered today to a dealer 400 miles away. By closing the deal and logging the sale today, I qualify for both the public rebate ($1000) that expires today, and the $750 Ford "private cash" offer that came in the mail. They had to make sure the car was "on the ground" and inventory was updated today, in order to qualify as a valid sale.They really went above & beyond my expectations in getting it handled. The car is on the way and I should be able to pick it up in 72 hours or so. The car that I previously ordered is scheduled to be built on January 21. It should arrive in mid February, and I'm sure they'll have no trouble finding a buyer for it.

Tracking threads on Blue Oval used to be restricted to existing members who have established a record of active participation. This may have changed (I joined in 2008) but I believe you can't submit a tracking request until you've been a member and made at least 10 posts. The gentleman who helps the most, on the popular thread, may not respond to a request is from someone who has just joined, and/or anyone who joins and then makes a flurry of posts to meet the 10-post rule. So, patience is the word I suppose. It may be quicker to contact the inventory manager or new car manager at your dealer.

Changing the rating is arbitrary. They did this because the product is made by Ford. They would never make the same change for a Toyota product. Back when I got my first Prius, everyone knew you couldn't al;ways get the sticker MPG and a few people made some rumblings about it, started talking class action suit, etc. But it all blew over.

I think dealers are busy, too busy to do searches for us regularly. They know we've ordered, they know we're going to buy, and they aren't super motivated to be creative beyond that. Can't blame them. Do your own search and, if you find a car you'd be willing to buy now, call or go in and say "I found a car at Such-and-Such Motors. I'd like to buy it." Also, I found my dealer was only "sort of' helpful by phone or email. But when I was standing there on a quiet afternoon (i.e., no interruptions, no customers around), smiling and being friendly, they could see that I was genuinely interested, genuinely respectful of their time and schedule, and genuinely willing to work on a solution. In other words, go out of your way to not be a pain, and to avoid appearing demanding or frustrated. Be super friendly but firm that you want a car ASAP, even if they have to trade with another dealer. If it doesn't work, well you've ordered a car so you've got nothing to lose, right? I think for me the secret was getting their attention and simultaneously making it easy for them. I'd already done a lot of the work and the unspoken implication was that I had basically figured out something that they really should have already known. I stayed upbeat and friendly, but made it clear that there were two cars out there that met my needs. I asked nicely if they could please check to see if we could get one of the two, before the rebate expires. Once they got the message, they got to work.

That's what I did. Try making a list of ZIP codes within 100-200 miles, and then search online for cars in stock (or in transit) that meet your needs. The cars I'd seen listed online were the same as those on my dealer's computer. In my case, we shook hands on Black Friday and made an unbeatable deal (even though no money changed hands) so I didn't feel comfortable creating bad Car-ma (ha ha) by going somewhere else without giving them the first shot. I went in on Friday at 2PM when I knew it would be quiet and they wouldn't mind looking closely at my request. This kind of research can be a pain for them on, say, Saturday at noon when the lot is full of potential buyers. Anyway, they loaded my parameters (color, equipment)and found the cars in a matter of seconds. I'd asked about one of the cars already, and they'd tried to buy it with no luck. Then the guy said "Wait a minute, I know someone at this dealer" (the one that's 6 hours away) and he got their commitment to trade for it in less than a minute. Bam. Done. No more waiting until February. They gave me a copy of the invoice and said let's do the paperwork next week before the rebates expire. I thanked them and left.