plus 3 golfer

Did anyone work on your car? Oil change? To me it looks as if the belly shield was not installed properly. The leading edge of the shield should be tucked on top of the bottom of the black plastic piece along the front and sides such that air flow does not have access to the leading edge of the shield. It easy to simply screw the shield in without tucking it under. The photo showing the passenger side shows that the side is still attached but not tucked under. I suppose it is possible that hitting something pulled it off but where's that damage and how did the side get pulled out with two screws still attached. The back screw looks perfectly tight but the shield is not tucked underneath. If someone worked on your car recently, then I'd go and show them the damage caused by improper mounting of the shield.

In general, I agree with Kellytoons but I understand that others might not. It's about ones risk tolerance and managing the risk. Some can "afford" to not worry about "what's my car worth." Some can't afford not to worry. I expect to lose value after an accident (car being totaled or repaired). If I were worried by trading up in a few years, I likely would have leased to lock-in the residual at the time of purchase. Since we had no basis for what C-Max future values might be, ones financial risk tolerance and concerns should be taken into account in ones initial purchasing and financing decisions. Hence, the reason some likely lease, buy gap insurance, extended warranties, purchase lower end models, and so forth. IMO, comparing car values with housing values is not an appropriate comparison. I don't view a car as an investment as I do a house. Yes, I'd like the resale value of my C-Max and house to be high but cars with the higher trade values after 5 years are worth about 50%+ of MSRP . The worst are near 30% after 5 years. It looks like the C-Max may come in around the middle. I know getting only 40% in 5 years on trade is not what one expected when buying a C-Max but that's fairly typical. But, keep the car another 3-5 years and 'What's my car worth" becomes virtually moot.

Pretty much a given based on Ford's early commercials targeting the Prius V. :) Get Prius drivers in the showroom touting the C-Max beats Prius V in MPG and sell them on the improvements over the Priis. If the C-Max was a Prius clone, I wouldn't be driving a hybrid today. Also, given that the amount of energy to be saved with EV+ (if any) is rather insignificant in 1/8 mile for a typical driver, EV+ is more of a "gimmick" as Adrian L says. I think one would be lucky to average a tenth of a kWh benefit in charging costs (electricity or lost potential energy vs gas) unless one is climbing a very steep hill and then it might be a few tenths of a kWh on average. The maximum benefit would be 70% SOC down to 30% SOC or 40% of 1.4 kWh or about 0.56 kWh. I doubt very few reach 70 % SOC 1/8 mile from home and then drop 0.56 kWh in 1/8th mile. But IIRC, GM is touting the new Volt (gen 2) as going to have something like EV+.

Here's a press release by Ford on EV+. It certainly appears that Ford's goal is to develop algorithms that "predict and adjust to different driving demands. “We wanted a vehicle to perform in a certain way when it hit a certain spot,” said Smith." There is no claim in the press release of improving FE but it gives what customers love - "more driving time in electric-only mode" and bragging rights - “No other automaker seamlessly integrates global positioning and propulsion system control as we have with EV+.” So, EV+ may only be the beginning of altering vehicle operation based on predictive algorithms. This really is no different than what some drivers do on their own now to improve their FE (for example, kicking in EV mode when the driver deems it beneficial based on their knowledge of the driving demands of their route.)

This has nothing to do with lubrication. HannahWCU / dealer says the mixture was lean (not rich) which makes sense. To lean a mixture can lead to detonation (hence the misfires). Detonation spikes internal temperatures which likely damaged the spark plug (it's now not a controlled burn in the combustion chamber with no temperature spiking) .

It seems to me the reasoning might be that since ICE generally needs to run upon start up from a cold start, why not drain the HVB with EV+ and then run ICE at higher load to charge the HVB during its next warm up. This likely results in better ICE efficiency and faster warm up to reach closed loop operation. It's not only about FE but also about emissions. So, EV+ could help increase overall FE and reduce emissions. Also, I think you mean that EV+ "increases" the threshold for turning on ICE. The bar for turning on ICE when in EV+ moves higher allowing EV mode to be used at higher loads and for longer periods.

You didn't look to hard because my 0W20 AFE Mobil 1 5 quart jug clearly has WSS-M2C945-A listed on it

For warranty purposes the oil must meet or exceed Ford Spec.: WSS-M2C945-A (Motorcraft 5W20 Blend or Full Synthetic) WSS-M2C947-A (Motorcraft 0W20 Blend)

I believe the 2/24 is the Federal Emission Warranty on certain parts. I believe Ford states (somewhere), in essence, that it's b2b limited warranty is the greater of 3/36 or the Federal Warranty on these emissions components. So the 3/36 should supersede the emissions warranty for the coil. I agree though that a coil, spark plug wires are generally not part of the 5/60. Was the injector covered under the 5/60? I think that can go either way depending on manufacturer.

It (more protection from the heat) depends on the oil. A 0W oil with a higher viscosity index than a 5W oil may provide the same / higher durability at high temperatures. Below is a comparison of Mobil 1 with the Motorcraft oil with respect to viscosity. Note that Mobil 1 should provide better durability in hot weather than 5W20 Motorcraft full or blended synthetic The higher VI of Mobil 1 means that the slope of the viscosity index vs temperature curve is flatter than the Motorcraft oils. --------------------cSt@40C -cSt@100c -- Viscosity Index 0W20 Mobil 1 -- 44.8 ----------- 8.7 ------------- 173 5W20 Full ------- 45.9------------ 8.3 ------------- 159 5W20 Blend----- 50 -------------- 8.7 ------------- 164 0W20 Blend --- 44.69 --------- 8.52 ------------- 169 With respect to viscosity, I want a lower cSt@40*C for winter performance, a higher cSt@100*C for hot weather, and a higher viscosity index as that is a calculated value from Cst numbers to indicate viscosity change to temperature (higher means less change in viscosity for temperature difference). One other point and that is the numbers above would be for virgin oil. If one wants to know how their oil is performing (especially viscosity and TBN), one needs to get a Used Oil Analysis. With respect to FE, we don't know how the viscosity of the oils hold up over use. A heavier weight oil could become thinner quicker than a lower weight oil and provide better FE. Also, I think the hoopla about better FE with synthetic, lower weight oils that meets manufacturers' specs (even Mobil 1 0W20) is that the comparison of FE improvement is usually against a heavier weight, conventional oil. So I wouldn't expect a FE difference to be easy to see in the real world among the oils above.

See the owner's manual under "Brake-Shift Interlock." You need to be able to get into the vehicle. So, if you have an SEL, the key to open the door is inside the key FOB.

SPL Tech, I've done several "coast down" tests using gas pods and recording data via the OBDII port. Since the testing takes time and I'm satisfied with my findings, I don't plan on doing any more testing. Here's what I found: "Snowstorm, I've done coast down on two separate occasions over the last year logging variables with DashCommand. What I do is to minimize the square of the difference between actual speed and calculated speed. My intent was to see if I could notice any aero difference among stock, grille covers, and gas pods. The bottom line is that when I would add the gas pods, the data got worse. The grille covers reduced the Cd....." With respect to the grille covers, I've also done high speed testing at 70 mph and consistently found an increase in FE over no grille covers. I'd like to run a series of test in 10 mph decrements. But, again it takes time to run controlled test with recorded data. It seems obvious that covering the center and bottom grille openings should improve air flow and reduce Cd. However, it's not obvious how gas pods might help the C-Max. The C-Max roof contour appears to be an appropriate aero shape and I question how the pods might improve flow on the C-Max. I would caution against using my data in determining the benefits of grille covers or gas pods. If one gets a "good feeling" from using gas pods or grille covers, then great. I do believe the gas pods do look better than the grille covers. ;) :)

AFAIK, there is no user adjustment for steering effort. Given that Ford uses EPAS on a lot of model with different driving / steering characteristics, I would think EPAS would need to be tuned for the vehicle. This is a good question for the Ford rep that monitors this site to dig into or a knowledgeable dealer tech.

IMO, its more likely the fuse assembly (loose connection, dirty connection, bad assembly and so forth) went bad. When I look at the wiring diagrams there are two fuses in the circuit from the DC/DC converter to the 12 V battery. First, there is the Battery Fuse Assembly (150 A) that is attached to the positive terminal of the battery and the second is a fuse (175 A) in the High Current Battery Junction Box in the rear that is the primary converter fuse. The fuse assembly attached to the battery terminal has a non serviceable fuse inside. I also still question what happened and did the converter really fail. It wouldn't surprise me if the dealer simply checked the battery first and found it to be okay and then found the charging voltage at the battery was not to spec. So, as is common these days one replaces parts and hopes it fixes the issue. IMO, this "hot fuse" problem can cause a significant enough voltage drop in the 12 V battery charging circuit to not keep the battery fully charged. Given the right conditions its possible that at times the car will not start. There is no question that other failed components (electric water pump, bad connectors not properly sealed) have caused no starts. But this "hot fuse" issue may explain why people have seemingly random and many no starts but when the no start is checked by the dealer, they can find nothing or find the battery is no longer good and replace the battery.

The point is philosophical not a comparison of products / companies but how does a company gain owners trust. It matters not what product one sells but what one does so customers gain trust in ones company - get it right, and do the right things when problems arise, IMO.

I agree. I'm sure that if Ford would do as Telsa states: "we believe in doing deals where both parties benefit, and, when there is an asymmetry or under performance on our part, interpreting that in the other party’s favor...For example, if you buy or lease our car and don’t like it (within a reasonable amount of time), you can automatically give it back, accounting only for usage and damage", owners trust in Ford would skyrocket. :) If Ford can't fix a problem in a reasonable amount of time, Ford should make it easy for those with such continual, unfixed problem (dead battery) to "automatically give it (the car) back." ;) For example, trigger the lemon law and Ford should virtually immediately not several months down the road take the car back and It shouldn't be a hassle for an owner. Telsa's words are a strong statement of its commitment to customer satisfaction. Of course it's got to come at a cost. Such cost is likely built into the purchase price. I do think Ford was fair with the payment for the FE downgrades of the C-Max. But there are likely some that would rather "automatically" given the car back for Ford's "under performance" with respect to FE expectations. That would build more long term trust in Ford. IMO, as I have said before, it's up to Ford to get it right and do the right things. Ford then will earn the long term trust of more owners. Of course, this will come at a cost to Ford. Isn't competition great. :) From all the survey data, it appears being around average in customer satisfaction is acceptable for Ford. I doubt Telsa wants to be viewed as "average."

Welcome Stef, I believe the owner's manual may address this. Under the MY KEY section, the following cannot be changed: "Early low fuel. Warnings are displayed in the information displaycontrol followed by an audible tone when the fuel tank is atone-eighth tank or less." So, the nominal tank capacity is 13.5 gallon (you'll have to convert to liters). 1/8 tank is about 1.7 gallons. If you look at the Miles To Empty display, it will likely show less MTE than if one multiplies ones recent fuel economy by 1.7 gallons. There's no question the MTE is a conservative estimate. I would start to look to refuel within a serveral miles, if the fuel pump symbol turns red. I believe owners have driven a good distance (maybe 10+ miles once it turns red). Those that ran out of fuel will likely chime in. People have a difference of opinion on what is being on the "safe side". I'd watch the MTE when the low fuel warning comes on and fill up before it drops to an uncomfortable level for you. People have driven many miles after the MTE shows zero. BTW, it's cold these days too in the mornings in AZ at the golf course: many days around 50 F at tee off and a cool 70 F when finished. :) Just like what's the "safe side", what's cold to some may be warm to others.

I think you are confusing the DC/DC converter with the AC/DC inverter. These are two separate units. The inverter is under the hood and liquid cooled. The converter is in the HVB area and air cooled. The DC/DC converter provides a max of 145 A (not 166 A). IMO, this is not over sized given that it supplies power to a lot of hybrid control components in addition to the normal 12 V loads of a non-hybrid car. The 2000 W is based on about 14 V converter output and 145 A. The generator (MG1) and the traction motor (MG2) are controlled by the power electronics under the hood ( Secondary On Board Diagnostic Module / Transmission Control Module commonly called the AC/DC inverter). AFAIK, as operating requirements change, the power electronics can vary the phases, frequency and voltage to MG1 and MG2 such that MG1 and MG2 can run as a motor or generator, at various speeds, and so forth. I can guess at the ranges of the power control operation but it's not material. How do you know that the Ford AC compressor is not as efficient as the little frig ones???? The operating requirements of the C-Max AC electric compressor is not quite the same as the freezer compressor. Evidently, you haven't seen the compressor output when it starts up in 110 F ambient temp, sunny, and cabin temps likely 130+ F. I would think most consumers want the car cooled in minutes (not hours). That little freezer compressor would likely never cool the cabin to a comfortable level in hours of driving. I typically see just under 5 kW of AC load upon start up under the above conditions . Once the cabin temp begins to drop, the AC load begins to drop and when the cabin temp set point is reached, the load is around 500 W +- a few hundred Watts depending on conditions. At ambient temps in the 80s F and sunny, the AC load drops to around 250-350 W. So, 150 W freezer compressor won't be able to keep up with the heat gain into the cabin even at ambient temps in the 80s F.

What did the trip display say your FE was? What were the climatic conditions? Extra weight in car? I'd suggest running a controlled test say at 70 mph for 10 miles or so in each direction in hybrid mode and see what the displayed FE is. 25 mpg seems unusually low at 75 - 80 mph but depending on conditions (low temps, rain, head wind), it might not be. I get mid 30s with Eco-cruise set at 78 mph (gps) with AC on in summer. Also, how many miles on your NRG?

I haven't warmed up engines since my MB 240 D when using conventional oil at low temperatures. I'd leave my home and could barely make it up a fairly steep hill (slow down to around 20 mph) even with a 50 mph running start at the bottom. Once I switched oil to synthetic oil, I had no such performance issues in cold weather. My diesel turned over so much easier also with synthetic. At 20 F to 40 F, there's really no need to warm up a car before being driven. Maybe at -20 F to get conventional oil circulating, it might be beneficial to warm up the engine for a few minutes. But with synthetic / blends, IMO just start and drive.

Yes, even in accessory mode the converter provides power to the 12V system albeit at a lower voltage than in ready mode. IIRC, it's 13 V in ACC mode and 14+ in ready mode.

I suggest you download the owner's manual as one can search it for information. From the owner's manual. "The engine may not start because this hybrid vehicle is equipped withsilent key start. This fuel saving feature allows your vehicle to beready-to-drive without requiring the gas engine to be running. Thisindicator will remain on while the vehicle is on, whether the engine isrunning or not to indicate the vehicle is capable of movement (using itselectric motor, engine, or both). Typically, the engine will not start unlessthe vehicle is cold, a climate control change is requested, or theaccelerator is pressed." What I don't know is how long ICE might run after ICE is running. There's no question in mine, ICE will run if one pushes the accelerator pedal. I've never tried changing the climate control setting nor don't recall if ICE ever started when the vehicle was "cold" but cold for me is about 55 F in the garage.

Unless Ford changed ETM after certain build dates, I don't see it or recognize anything resembling SOC as a %. Most displayed data has units associated with it. Maybe there are additional screens that require additional input to view.

I've seen just under 70% SOC on my DashCommand App and the battery looks filled (including the tip). Here's what HannahWCU observed. For reference, his numbers are below. SoC corresponds to displayed Battery Symbol number and SOC corresponds to actual HBV. When SoC reads 100 - SOC reads 69.7 When SoC reads 80 - SOC reads 62.1 When SoC reads 70 - SOC reads 58.0 When SoC reads 50 - SOC reads 50.4 When SoC reads 30 - SOC reads 42.7