plus 3 golfer

There is a PID (parameter identification code) for virtually all stored data in the car. With the FORScan App and an appropriate OBDII adapter one selects the 12 V Battery State of Charge PID and then initiates FORScan to scan all selected PIDs in FORScan. Your Energi has a separate converter (not the main DCDC converter) which should charge the 12 V battery when you are plugged in and charging your Energi.

So what size charger do you have? If your battery has 0% SOC <= 10.5 V by definition (8.5V) and if you charged for one hour and SOC = 100% as you say, then the charger had to put out 43 A for one hour. 100% SOC = 43 Ah for the BXT67R Motorcraft battery. Because your battery is around 5 years old (2015 MY?), it’s maximum capacity will be less than 43 Ah. You got 12.1 V after allowing surface charge to drain which is a maximum SOC of around 30% +- maybe 10% depending on load on battery when you checked voltage. This would mean that if you charged for one hour you likely added between 8 - 16 Ah of capacity (8-16 A charger) to your battery. IMO, this is normal for a 5 year old battery. See attached discharge curve. C = 43 Ah, so the C /20 discharge curve is likely the one to use when measuring battery voltage. Just opening doors activates modules and puts load on battery. Driving the C-Max adds little to the SOC of the battery. In 25 minutes of driving you will likely add less than 2 Ah and more than likely around 1 Ah. So, best case is you might have increased SOC around 5%. Normal car off battery drain should be less than 50 mA. So if car is off for four days, normal max. drain would be around (96 h x 0.050 A) = 4.8 Ah (should be less unless there is a parasitic drain). I believe around 30 mA would be typical. Thus, the four day Ah drain would be around 3 Ah. This 3Ah drain is still greater than the charge put back in 25 minutes of driving.

The short answer is NO "secret warranty" assistance. Your best bet is to source a salvaged transmission which came out of a post Aug. 15 2015 vehicle. Search this site as several have done such. If your mechanic is reasonable, you should get out with no more than 11 hours of labor. Add maybe $1500 or less for transmission, shipping, and miscellaneous parts. See attached TSB. MC-10148717-9999.pdf

Great.? Maybe you can help decipher what the units are in the 4 charge / discharge PIDs I mentioned above. The problem is I never had a new battery, FORSScan, and the age reset done, at the same time except for last month when my battery was replaced. Thus, previously the PID data was not synced to a new battery. But, now with a new battery installed last month and the PIDs zeroed out, I hopefully over time will be able to watch the PIDs change value and link it to a change in maximum actual SOC by every so often charge battery full with charger.

Ford says that the replacement battery should be of similar size and battery age zeroed out. Otherwise the algorithms may not work as intended. What are they (those installing larger batteries) trying to accomplish? The car will still work fine with a larger battery with no issues but load shed programs and charging will likely not give the intended results. The C-Max battery is made by Interstate, has plenty of Ah capacity and will start the car at 10.1 V (verified by me) and likely a lower voltage. By definition, 10.5 V represents 0% SOC. CCR is not relevant. From what I have observed / inferred by monitoring SOC and charging curves (Amps vs SOC) and the SM, replacing the BXT67R battery with a higher rated Ah battery (not the same as CCR), will more than likely result in the actual Ah capacity of the larger battery to be charged to the same Ah level as the BXT67R over time. This is because the software assumes the installed battery is rated at 43Ah when new. In order to charge a larger battery beyond 43Ah, one would likely have to put the battery on a charger overnight. There is also a self discharge of lead acid batteries of about 5% a month. Thus, the larger battery looses more Ah of capacity due to self discharge than the 43 Ah. It is thus logical to assume that the charging algorithm will over time put the same amount of charge back to both batteries (Ahs) but the SOC of the larger battery will decline. Lead acid batteries like to be at a high SOC. The less the time the car is in ready to drive mode and the less the frequency of driving the car, the faster the SOC of the larger battery will likely fall. This could take months to years depending on the Ah difference between the batteries. When I have time I will post several actual charging curves from my recording of data. The following are several important points I have validated / inferred from the data. 1) The SOC is determined assuming 100% SOC = 43 Ah of rated battery capacity when new. It is hard coded and I have validated the 43 Ah. 2) The PCM determines the set point voltage for the DCDC converter based on difference between current actual SOC and the computed current maximum capacity (SOC max) of battery. This is why it is important to do a battery age reset when a new battery is installed. The greater the difference between computed max SOC and actual SOC is, the greater the added Ah of capacity (added SOC) for a given period of time due to charging will be. If battery age is not reset, the algorithm will continue to use the computed max SOC of the old battery and thus undercharge the new battery. I have validated this. 3) The computed current maximum capacity of battery is based on “coulomb counting”. The current flow into / out of the battery is monitored and via integrating the current flow, the Ah of capacity losses can be estimated as the battery ages over time. So, the computed max SOC is 100% less the capacity losses. The charge / discharge data is stored in four PIDs - cumulative discharge in sleep mode, cumulative charge when car is charging (for non-hybrid when ICE is on), cumulative discharge when car is in Accessory mode (for non-hybrid when ignition is on), and the fourth is not used in hybrids (cumulative discharge when ICE is off). When the battery age PID is reset to zero, these charge / discharge PIDs are also zeroed out. I have validated that coulomb counting changes the SOC.

That only caveat might be SOC of the 12 V battery. For example, when my battery was failing a month ago and SOC showed 0%, the shutting down message would come up immediately upon startup. I would charge the battery back up full which was around 60 % and upon startup the message would not appear. After the frequency of getting the message on startup increased to virtually every morning, Ford Quick Lane upon testing found the battery wouldn’t hold a charge. The battery was physically 65 months old but I reset it twice, the latest being 4/3/2020. The SM indicates that If SOC < 40%, a power saving algorithm is trigged to mitigate power draw from non-essential load but goes no further into the description. So, if SOC is less than 40% (could be lower), the timeout could be less than 10 minutes.

I just used Engineering Test Mode to light up all lights on dash. There is no "battery light display" on the dash. I confirmed using the FORScan APP that the procedure did reset the battery age and PIDs used to accumulate flow in / out of 12 V battery to zero. Unfortunately, the C-Max doesn't have the normal 12 V battery symbol on the dash. So, without FORScan to validate, I guess you could do the procedure several times hoping that one made no entry mistakes in at least one manual battery age reset.

https://forscan.org/home.html This site has info on adapters and links to the APP. The required OBDII adapter and App depend on what OS you are using on your device. Most times cheaper adapters will work but if you are going to record data, you’ll want to use the FORScan recommended ones as the cheaper ones may stop in the middle of a recording resulting in loss of recorded data. In addition, if you want to scan modules on both the HS and MS CAN, make sure the OBDII adapters can do this either automatically or with a toggle switch.

Try reseating the HVB disconnect plug. It looks like the BECM believes the disconnect to the HVB is open but the disconnect is plugged in. With FORScan.org App you can run a self test on the BECM and other modules. Other than that you'll need a SM with wiring diagrams to run through wiring checks for shorts, grounds, open circuits and connector issues. ICE will not crank (not start) without the software having assurance that the HVB is connected and functional as MG1 (the generator in the hybrid transmission) using HV power from the HVB acts as starter motor to turn ICE. POB37 is the indication of HVB not functional and perhaps P0A0A is where the issue causing P0B37 is. P1A10 is simply the global DTC that the HVB has been disabled. P0A0A:13, P0A0C:00, P1A0F:68, P0B37:00 Refer to Wiring Diagrams Cell 12 for schematic and connector information. Normal Operation and Fault Conditions The SOBDMC incorporates two hardwired interlock circuit inputs. One is used to monitor the ACCM high voltage cable and the other is part of the high voltage fuse cover. The High Voltage battery incorporates one hardwired interlock circuit which is part of the service disconnect and is monitored by the BECM . The interlock circuit status from each module is sent over the HS-CAN . A P0A0A:13 will result from a faulty inerlock circuit at the SOBDMC or faulty interlock circuit at the High Voltage Battery. This fault will illuminate the stop safely hazard (red triangle) warning indicator and shut down the vehicle. Battery Pack Contactor malfunction thresholds: P0AA4 - Negative contactor status remains closed. • Negative Contactor Measurement is > 90% Negative Half Pack voltage AND • Negative Contactor Measurement is < 110% Negative Half Pack voltage AND • Negative Contactor Measurement is > 30 volts. P0AA5 - Negative contactor is commanded closed AND there is power to the contactor AND the contactor state is determined open. Open is defined as NOT closed (i.e. mutually exclusive). Closed is defined above: P0AA2 - Positive contactor is commanded closed AND there is power to the contactor AND the contactor state is determined open. Open is defined as NOT closed (i.e. mutually exclusive). Closed is defined as: • Negative Contactor Measurement is > 90% Negative Half Pack voltage AND • Positive Contactor Measurement is < 110% Positive Half Pack voltage AND • Positive Contactor Measurement is > 30 volts P0B37 - The interlock and disconnect are mechanically interconnected such that removing the disconnect opens the interlock. Interlock status is reported open for the following criteria: PSR OR Charge wakeup is High, ACL latch is reported tripped by low level driver and interlock is reported open by low level driver. (ACL is anti-chatter latch). P0B37:00; P0A0C:00 Refer to Wiring Diagrams Cell 12 for schematic and connector information. Normal Operation and Fault Conditions The BECM montiors the interlock circuit loop which travels in series through the service disconnect plug connection and the PTC heater high voltage cables for going open. If an open exists there will be no power to the high voltage contactor control windings which prevents them from closing. This is a safety feature which is used to verify the high voltage connections are not disconnected or removed. The service disconnect plug also shuts off the high voltage to the system so service to the system can be completed safely. When the service disconnect plug or PTC heater interlock circuits are open, the stop safely hazard (red triangle) warning indicator is illuminated and the vehicle will shut down and/or not start. DTC Description Fault Trigger Conditions P0B37:00 High Voltage Service Disconnect Open: No Sub Type Information This DTC is set in the BECM when the service disconnect is open for 1 second or more while the service disconnect plug is still inserted in the High Voltage Battery. P0A0C:00 High Voltage System Interlock Circuit Low: No Sub Type Information Sets when BECM senses the interlock circuit is low for 5 seconds or more. Possible Sources Service disconnect plug Wiring, terminals or connectors BECM PINPOINT TEST AE : P0B37:00, P0A0C:00

We haven’t had “active” moderators here for 3-4 years. Look at the administrators under the more options tab. Adair and just-a-cmax likely do not own a C-Max anymore.

Can’t tell who actually owns it. But early on, Ford had customer service reps monitor the site and offered assistance when owners had issues. That stopped IIRC around late 2015, early 2016 when Sync version 3.08 / 3.10 ? (Would have to search which one) was released and showed up as an update on Ford Owners site for some and not for others. CSR said don’t worry it will show up as an update and dealer will install. After many months of Ford owner site still showing the older SYNC version 3.06 as being up to date, the CSRs disappeared from the forum.

I believe it was 3 weeks ago that the SPAM started. Evidently, site has very poor spam controls and no monitors deleting spam accounts and posts. ? It won’t surprise me, if one day soon, we try to open the forum and we see the expected, but unpleasant “404”. Support of the C-Max Energi forum stopped a little over 1 year ago which was a little over 2 years after Ford stopped production of the 2017 Energi. Well, in several months, Ford will reach about 3 years since production stopped on the 2018 C-Max. Time will tell!

Are you having issues with the DCAC converter (12V DC to 110 V AC). The DCAC converter is powered from the 12 V system. When the HVB is connected (contractors closed), the DCDC converter provides power to serve load on the 12 V system including charging the 12 V battery and supplying power to the DCAC converter. The 12 V battery “smooths” voltage from potential instantaneous 12 V voltage spikes like from the Internal Combustion Engine on/off operations and other components on the 12 V system. One can monitor / record current flow PIDs from DCDC converter and in / out of 12 V battery along with 12 V voltage at control modules. One will see + / - current spikes for milliseconds as 12 V load changes while voltage remains fairly constant when components are switched on / off. I’ve never seen more than a 0.1 V change from set point 12 V voltage during these instantaneous on/off events. Thus, DCAC converter should see very constant voltage usually between about 14.4 - 14.8 V depending on the DCDC set point voltage as determined by the PCM. The converter will operate down to 11 V DC. When the HVB is not connected (any mode but “ready to drive” mode), the DCAC converter will not operate.

The instrument panel dimmer switch (which adjusts brightness) is an input to the Front Control Interface Module (FCIM) and communicates with other modules over the MS and HS CAN. The head lamp switch and steering wheel multifunction switch (high beams) communicates with the BodyControlModule over Local Interconnect Networks. My guess is that if the BCM fails to receive communications after high beams are on, it will turn off high beams. Can you turn high beams back on with multifunction switch after 30 seconds? The only connector in common with both issues is C2280C on the BCM which is located under glove box where fuse panel is. Pull flexible cover panel off under dash (2 push pins holding in place) and reseat the large connectors. Other connectors which are not common to issue are located behind dash or in steering wheel are difficult to get to. Also use link below for Engineering Test Mode and start up ETM and scroll through screens to the screen which show DTCs and take pic of screen and post.

Sync 3 needs different hardware. Look on EBay for Sync 2 to Sync 3 upgrade (around $600). Jestevens’s post on sync 3.10 refers to Sync 2 version 3.10. See table below for all Sync 2 versions. Look on the MFT screen for the sync generation you have (see pic below). You should see numbers that will match a number in the generation column of the table below. You likely can still find version 3.06, 3.08, and 3.10 on line, download to a usb stick, and install yourself. You can move any wires out of the way and then use a fuse puller or needle nose pliers and pull fuses out. CCPU In-vehicle Image Part No. Suffix SyncMyRide.com Version Generation Comment 10212 -AJ 1.8 10308 -BD 2.3 SYNCGen2_4.22.10308_PRODUCT 10337 -BE 2.4 SYNCGen2_4.22.10337_PRODUCT 11038 -BH 2.7 SYNCGen2_4.23.11038_PRODUCT 11063 -BJ 2.8 SYNCGen2_4.23.11063_PRODUCT 11081 -BL 2.10 SYNCGen2_4.23.11081_PRODUCT Focus only 11134 -BM 2.11 SYNCGen2_4.23.11134_PRODUCT Released 26 Oct 2011 12023 unknown 3.0.2 SYNCGen2 Released 05 Mar 2012 unknown unknown 3.1.3 SYNCGen2 Released September 2012 (BEV vehicles only) 12156 unknown 3.2.2 SYNCGen2 Released September 2012 (Limited release) 12285 unknown 3.5.1 SYNCGen2_4.29.12285_PRODUCT Released December 2012 + GPS Update (A4) new SD card required. (Compatible up to A11, B11 & F8 SD cards). 13171 unknown 3.6.2 SYNCGen2_4.30.13171_PRODUCT Released August 2013 (Compatible up to A11, B11 & F8 SD cards) 14122 unknown 3.7.11 SYNCGen2_4.32.14122_PRODUCT Released September 2014 (Compatible up to A11, B11, F8 & K6 SD cards) 15128 unknown 3.8 SYNCGen2_3.08.15128.EA.10_PRODUCT Released October 2, 2015 (Compatible up to A11, B11, F8 & K6 SD cards) Rev 4 (Patched) latest Nav Version (5.67.6) Released September 2015 16180 unknown 3.10 SYNCGen2_3.10.16180.EA.0_PRODUCT Released November 2016 (Compatible up to A11, B11, F8 & K6 SD cards) MyFord Touch availability

FORScan by far! https://forscan.org/home.html

You say "car radio has no sound." So, now are you saying your radio will not play a sound on AM or FM also??? or just that no sound is coming from the speakers? There are two fuses to pull / test / reinsert Fuse F79 and Fuse F22. F79 is located on a panel under the glove box. You do not need to remove glove box. There is a flexible trim panel under glove box which is held in place by two push on retainers. Pull them off and remove panel. You will see the fuse panel. Look for F79 and pull it out for 30 seconds and reinsert. F22 is located in the rear junction box behind a plastic panel on the lower, left side wall of the luggage compartment behind the left rear wheel well. You can download the owner's manual to see location of fuses on panels. You should also check both fuses for continuity with an ohmmeter. F22 powers the Digital Audio Control Module / speakers.

The timing of the “shutdown message” when DCDC converter off (car not in ready to drive mode) depends on the State of Charge of 12 V battery and the “age” of the battery (Ah of computed battery degradation). I don’t know the exact algorithm, but know that when a new battery is installed, battery age must be reset to zero days to zero out the Ah of battery degradation. I also know that when SOC > 40% and battery age is zero, the time until message appears is exactly 10 minutes after car is taken out of “ready to drive mode. It’s easy to check by shutting car off with radio on and staying in car (do not open door). When SOC is low and battery age is high, the time until message appears can be less than a minute. About 2 weeks ago, I began getting the message sporadically as soon as I opened the door to start the car. Car always started though. But, I knew something was wrong. Voltage under hood after starting car and allowing DCDC converter to charge car for 10 minutes appeared OK but when I checked SOC PID with FORScan, it showed SOC PID = 0%. Next morning, I checked voltage under hood prior to starting and got 10.01 V. Car will start at 10V. I went to Quicklane and Ford immediately found the battery was bad and replaced under prorated 84 month warranty. My battery was about 65 months old. I don’t trust dealer to reset the battery age upon installation of new battery. They did not do it for my failed battery. So, assuming your battery is good, I would do the manual procedure to reset battery age in the link below.

I looked at SM and rear seat and many panels and covers (inside and underneath) need removed to get to HVB cable where it goes through floor pan. Also, if they had to physically remove the cable from the vehicle to repair, it would add to the labor hours. I would argue with dealer that $160 an hour is extremely high. You don't need your senior tech removing nuts, bolts and a cable. I have not heard of anyone who had the same issue. You are probably correct in the root cause is likely a sloppy repair 2 years prior. It's hard to tell from the SM image but there doesn't appears to be anything (loom or otherwise) holding cables in place as it bends and goes through opening underneath car. Perhaps the cable was pulled to tight and thus rubbed. Look at pic below as there is no loom shown going through opening. I do know that some posters have had wiring issues with the HVB and Ford does not cover wiring past the 3/36, B2B warranty. Also, IIRC Ford does warrant replacement parts plus installation which were paid for by the owner for 2 years. So, since the previous repair was covered under the original warranty, there would be no 2 year extension to the original warranty.

First, there is no 12 V battery under the hood. The 12 V battery is located under the floor in the hatch area. The big High Voltage Battery is also in the back. Which battery did you have replaced under warranty? To start your car, the 12 V battery needs to be able to power up all the control modules in the car. The control modules then run checks to insure your car is “ready to drive” which primarily means that the HVB is properly connected to the High voltage system and the control modules are functioning. Your car will not start if the HVB is not properly connected. When your HVB is plugged in and charging from wall power, the 12 V battery is also being charged by a separate 12 V charger only used when car is plugged in and charging. When the car in in “ready to drive” mode (HVB is connected), the 12 V battery is charged from the HVB by a DCDC converter module (there is no alternator like a conventional car). When car is off, the HVB is not connected to the HV system. It sounds that you have a significant 12 V battery drain causing the 12V battery to completely discharge in a few days. The APIM behind the radio / display has been know to cause battery drain. You can try pulling fuse 79 in the fuse panel located under the glove box and leaving it out over night and see If battery drain stops. Put it back in when you plan on driving car. Here’s a document you can read and learn a lot about the hybrid / Energi. OBDSM1700_HEV.pdf

$8061 seems fair. It doesn’t seem like they are low balling the offer. Throw in $$ for aftermarket mechanical breakdown warranty as you know your car and maintenance done but not the replacement one. There’s a risk you would be buying a car with a problem.

I don't believe dealer. Ask dealer how this "condensation gel" (water / oil mixture???) affects the magnetic inductive camshaft position sensor from picking up the rotating gear teeth and producing a sinusoidal voltage wave. Seems to me the "gel" would have to have a significant metal composition and remain between the teeth and the pickup as the engine spins to disrupt the magnetic field such that the PCM can't determine cam position. Also, magnetic field strength increases with cold. I don't know what else might disrupt the magnetic field in cold weather that is near by. It would most likely have to be an electric motor, inverter, or high current flow in nearby cables and then the shielding of the cam sensor wiring would likely have to be damaged. More likely would be inadequate shielding of the sensor wiring. If you are still under warranty, have dealer replace wiring harness for the sensor circuit if it continues to happen. P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit (Bank 1 Or Single Sensor) Description: This DTC sets when the PCM can no longer detect the signal from the camshaft position 11 (CMP11) sensor. Possible Causes: CMP11 circuit open CMP11 circuit short to ground CMP11 circuit short to voltage SIGRTN circuit open VBPWR circuit open Damaged CMP11 sensor shielding Damaged CMP11 sensor Diagnostic Aids: Harness routing, harness alterations, damaged shielding, or electrical interference from other incorrectly functioning systems may have an intermittent impact on the CMP11 signal. Application Key On Engine Off Key On Engine Running Continuous Memory All GO to Pinpoint Test DR .

I assume you have an Energi because the Hybrid does not have an ECT Sensor. Looks like you have to remove the wiper pivot arms, the cowl panel, and then you will see the heater core coolant lines going into the heater core and the sensor in the line. cowl.pdf ECT2 Sensor.pdf Wipers.pdf

In 2013, we became familiar with the Engineering Test Mode function in the left hand display. But until recently we were not quite sure how to convert the ETM DTCs to the standard OBDII codes. The ETM display shows Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) as stored by the modules in the vehicle in Hexadecimal format in 6 bytes of data. One can convert the 6 bytes into the OBDII DTC formats. Below is an example of how to convert. Assume C46B86 is displayed in the ETM. 1) "C" hex = 1100 binary, first two bits 11 = Network Code U, second two bits = 0 in hex. So, the first two (OBDII) digits are U0. 2) The next three bytes after the "C" byte are the same in OBDII format. So, the OBDII DTC is U046B. 3) The last two bytes in the ETM code are used to better define the DTC and are attached to the OBDII DTC with a ":". So, the C46B86 ETM code becomes U046B:86. The first two bits of the first Hex digit can be 00, 01, 10, or 11 binary where 00 = P for powertrain codes 01 = C for chassis codes 10 = B for body codes 11 = U for network codes However, I don't recall ever seeing and Powertrain, Chassis, or Body codes in the ETM from any poster. I have only seen the first Hex digit being a "C" or "F" which are U DTCs. This leads me to believe the ETM only shows U codes. But I could be wrong. If anyone has seen P, C, or B codes in the ETM please post. The first digit of a powertrain ETM code should be either a HEX 0, 1, 2, or 3 digit so OBDII P0A2D - Drive Motor A Temperature Sensor Circuit High = 0A2D in the ETM and P1289 - Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor Circuit High = 1289 in the ETM. Here's an example of an "F" ETM code. F00316 = U3003:16 U3003:16 Battery Voltage: Circuit Voltage Below Threshold

Attached is the TSB which shows over 10 hours of labor because engine / transmission has to be removed from vehicle to replace sealant. Also, note all the parts / supplies needed. So, $2600 seems a little high but it depends on dealer labor rate and MSRP of parts / supplies. TSB 15-0174.pdf