plus 3 golfer

Just wanted to verify it was the purge valve as a stuck open purge valve supposedly throws P1450 AND supposedly if the valve is stuck open, the diagnostic test for the code you got (P144B) would not be run. But as we know sometimes Ford / Dealer aren't exactly right in what they say. :) It would be interesting to know the current code that you got. The CEL lamp going out only indicates that the fault causing the DTC went away. But, the code will still be stored until it is reset by a OBDII scan tool. I believe you can still go to Autozone and borrow an OBDII scanner and then read the codes. If it's the same code, I'd go back to the dealer.

Well, they may not have found the problem. "The Canister Purge Valve (CPV) output circuit is checked for opens and shorts (P0443)Note that a stuck closed CPV generates a P04ED, a leaking or stuck open CPV generates a P1450" "This test checks to see if the fresh air line to ELCM unit is clogged or restricted. The fresh air line flow test is performed with the engine running, the Change Over Valve (COV) off and purge flow commanded on. Fresh Air Line Flow Check Operation:DTCsP144B - EVAP System Secondary Purge Vapor Line Restricted/Blocked" Edit: AJay do you know what valve(s) was (were) replaced? Are there part numbers on the service order?

Look at the dealer service order. The dealer should have listed the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) that caused the CEL to illuminate. Please post the DTC and what was done to fix the issue. If it's not on the service order, I doubt the dealer did anything.

Garbage In = Garbage Out ;) Dynamometer settings were based on wrong road load HP coefficients. Ford updated the coefficients in 2014. As I posted in another thread, below is the history of the RLHP coefficients and HP vs speed curves for the C-Max compared to the Prius and Prius V.

Yes, that sounds like a relay operating. I hear it also. But that's likely normal as the door opening triggers al sorts of events. So the vacuum pump was the sound you referred to in your first post?

Just step on your brake pedal a half dozen + times and the brake vacuum pump will come on (no key needs to be in the vicinity). So scottwood2, try it and see it you hear the vacuum pump come on. That is the only noise I hear occasionally when I open the door. fotomoto, I forgot to mention it's not a "pressure" pump but a "vacuum" pump for the brake booster. If you open the hood, you'll note that the sound emanates from the right, front of the engine. You will still have friction brakes even if the vacuum pump fails but with no vacuum it will take a lot more effort on the brake pedal to engage the friction brakes.

This has been posted several times prior. You be the judge. ;)

Irrelevant, different battery chemistry.

Agree with Kelleytoons There's no evidence that Ford has "fixed" the dead battery issue. Owners (2013 and 2014) are still reporting dead batteries despite Ford's "fixes" including software updates. Owners are still contemplating using their states Lemon Law. Is the car the SE model? What is the price? If you can live with perhaps having to jump start the car on occasions (a good jump start battery and jumper cables), then go for it but just remember you were warned. ;) :) I'd also have the dealer extend the warranty to 8 yrs / 125 k miles at no charge (Ford's ESP and zero deductible). Flood Ford offers such over the internet for about $1225 - to give an idea of what the dealer cost might be.

I have I have and it is still a Prius with an upscale look. IMO, it's hard to beat the comfort, ride, and performance of the C-Max. Be prepared for poorer acceleration, a harsher, choppier ride, more noise, cramped interior space with the CT200H than the C-Max. If you can live with those "features" in the CT200H by all means take the CT200H for a test drive. ;) :)

Yes, the Energi keeps charging as verified by a member here. BTW, you guys are looking at the "wrong" dictionary. Try the Urban Dictionary. It's on the internet and has the most votes so it must be correct. :) moot useless, nothng, pointlessthis is so....moot

IMO with respect to reliability, the bottom line is if you are one of the few C-Max owners that experience the "dead 12 V Battery, no start issue" than you'll consider the C-Max unreliable. Otherwise, reliability appears not to be an issue with the C-Max. Virtually all known "reliability" issues (there were many relating to the customer convenience stuff like MFT, radio, navigation which gave the C-Max some bad press) have been fixed with recalls or TSBs - some hardware replacement but mostly software fixes. With respect to longevity most worry about the life of the Hybrid components. The C-Max Hybrid components are covered for 10 years / 100 k miles. I don't think there's enough data to access longevity to 150 k, 200 k or more miles. The HVB will likely be the most expensive component to replace past warranty but based on Ford testing, I believe the HVB will last significantly longer than most will own their car and probably for the life of the car. Then next most expensive hybrid part is likely the C-Max split system trans-axle. It's very similar to the Prius trans-axle which seems to hold up just fine. If you are truly worried about reliability or longevity, I'd suggest leasing vs buying.

Yes that Is what I meant. If you aren't going to need the extra range then why precondition in the FFE. In the Energi, range is not an issue. It's economics. The value of the extra range does depend on local prices but it's rather small for precooling an Energi is the point provided the EV range is fully used.

I don't think it's about ICE inefficiency in charging the HBV in EV later mode or in the Hybrid. The PCM can't predict future driving conditions (yet) and thus optimize use of ICE. Give the PCM the route via GPS and the next charging destination and Ford might be able to develop an algorithm to better use ICE in charging the Hybrid or Energi. But currently, there needs to be predefined rules to apply to typical conditions. Otherwise, drivers would complain about the PCM charging the HVB full with ICE on the highway and they are only 5 mile from home or a charging station and can charge cheaper with electricity. Drivers (hyper-milers) can and do choose to alter vehicle load trying to optimize use of ICE and EV but the driver can only do so much. Maybe we need a bank of switches to tell the PCM how we want to run ICE. :) Of course one does not want to cycle the "big" HBV routinely with ICE to full capacity as this will affect the useful life of the HBV. Battery degradation will accelerate with number of cycles and charging past a certain % SOC. Does anyone know what SOC the Energi HVB is charged to when full? It's capacity is 7.6 kWh but what's the max. capacity it is charged to?

Here's my take. :) The preconditioning discussion stemmed from HannahWCU's initial post on his FFE EV: "But the biggest hit to range comes with using the cabin heater. Turning the heat on immediately reduces range by 10-11 miles!!" and his subsequent point on preconditioning. Then, the discussion somehow jumped to preconditioning for AC AND preconditioning of a PHEV as if the benefits of AC preconditioning were the same as heating preconditioning for an EV or PHEV. The heating / cooling benefits simply are not the same unless the car has a heat pump to heat and cool the car (Leaf now use a heat pump) and the EV range benefit only applies when drive a PHEV outside the its EV range. I've attached a study on the Impact of Vehicle Air-Conditioning on Fuel Economy,Tailpipe Emissions, and Electric Vehicle Range. Now imagine using the resistance heating in the winter which is perhaps 3 X worse than the values in the tables. One can probably use these tables and get a good idea of the effect of preconditioning and shutting off the HVAC when driving for range and FE. One likely needs to use a blend of the driving cycle(s) that would be similar to their driving cycle and also estimate the preconditioning load and time and the steady state load and time to get an average load. Anything that can be done to reduce vehicle electric load when driving can have range and FE benefits whether the car is an ICE vehicle, HEV, PHEV, or EV. ;) But gas stations are everywhere not EV charging stations. For preconditioning of a PHEV or EV to be an economic benefit, one has to drive the car beyond the EV range but for preconditioning. Also, the preconditioning doesn't help with FE if one drives in EV until the next charge - use kWh to precondition or use kWh for initial conditioning while driving and replace on next charge. It appears that one could "over precondition" (maintaining cabin temperature until driven using more kWh than necessary) and the preconditioning could hurt FE (albeit likely rather small). I closely monitored my climate usage this past summer to estimate how much preconditioning might help range (heating is not an issue in the Phoenix area) with estimated range of the FFE when I was contemplating its purchase. Range is virtually "everything" to an EV and the primary reason I have yet to purchase a PHEV or EV . Preconditioning for AC doesn't do enough to extend the range of the Energi (or FFE) for me assuming one is going to use AC and not shut off the HVAC system when driving. A quick calculation shows the savings of using a 0.25 kWh from gas instead of electricity to precondition in the summer is minimal (saving about 1 mile in 40 miles) or less than $0.05 per precondition event: ($2.50 / gallon) * 1 mile / (40 mpg) - ($0.085 / kWh * 0.25 k Wh). If one could precondition multiple times say 300 times with 20+ mile trips (just outside the Energi range between preconditioning) during the cooling season, that's maybe a savings of $30 a year for me. If one preconditions and doesn't drive outside the Energi EV range, there is no economic benefit nor range benefit from preconditioning (heating or cooling). Impact of AC on Range.pdf

I don't consider around 0.25 to 0.4 kWh a lot of energy for the initial cooling in Phoenix in the summer for a 35*F change in temperature. That might equate to 1 - 2 miles of range reduction for most EVs. Heating would be significantly worse since I believe resistance heat is used. I could see it being about 2 x 3 times worse for a 35*F temperature change in the winter (I doubt most garages get below 35*F on average). So preconditioning makes a lot of sense in the winter but not so much in the summer. In Phoenix in the summer with full sun, 110 F+ ambient, sun shade on windshield, and sun soaked for one+ hours, the climate control demand when the AC is first turned on is slightly over 4 kW. This initial demand diminishes over the next 5 minutes or so until set point temperature is reached and settles around 500 Watts or so. If we assume worst case of 4 kW demand for 6 minutes or 1/10 hour, that's 0.4 kWh of energy used. I've never seen 4 kW of demand for 6 minutes. I've recorded the approximate time and approximate demand change several times and estimate that 0.25 kWh is about all the energy that is used for the initial cool down.

Yes, I agree that the active thermal battery management should reduce the degradation rate. As I stated in another thread this past summer, I considered a FFE given the significant rebates (leasing and cash) available on the FFE in early summer. But, it made no "economic" sense trading our C-Max in for an FFE or keeping the C-Max and trading in our Rogue. Does the PID for SOC show the "true" SOC for the HVB? Has anyone tracked their SOC yet on the FFE forums?

Exactly, I'd suggest anyone who is contemplating an EV, go to the Leaf and FFE forums and follow their trials and tribulations for a few years. I've concluded (primarily for the reasons Kelleytones gives) that an EV with a 76 mile EPA range won't work for me. My guess is that the FFE is still too new to assess range degradation over miles driven under various conditions. Hopefully, it won't be as bad as the Leaf. There are many negatives with EV ownership that IMO offset fuel savings. This IMO is the most negative: "Loss of battery capacity due to or resulting from gradual capacity loss is NOT covered under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty." So, after 30k or 50k miles say ones typical range is now only 60, 55, or 50 miles under various conditions. IMO, Ford needs to include a battery degradation threshold where the HBV is replaced under warranty. Otherwise, one cannot count on the range over time / miles. Many Leaf owners favor leasing over ownership as a hedge against the negatives. But everyone's situation is different.

I've seen Leaf owners characterize to prospective owners on how it feels driving with the range of the Leaf like this: it's like driving an ICE car with the low fuel light always on but with virtually all the gas stations closed.

So, are you saying that you get 8.6 V in ready to drive mode with the OEM bulb and everything is fine? Or do you get a higher voltage? The BCM controls the voltage to the low beam bulb but not the high beam bulb. The BCM may be detecting a high start up current with the HID and cutting voltage. You may need an interposing relay that supplies the HID 12 V directly from the battery and not through the Body Control Module.

Here's a good video tutorial (3 parts) on the Volt hybrid system as well a as a demonstration video of how the Prius transaxle works (it's also applicable to the C-Max).

Same here and it's my cellphone or body blocking the fob. Edit: after testing many times over the last few days, the position of the fob with respect to my body or phone does not appear to be causing the door unlocking issue. It now appears there is something amiss as it doesn't seem to matter where the fob is located or what's in front of it. Even with the fob held dangling a foot or so from the car, sometimes it takes 2 or 3 attempts to unlock the door. I can't say exactly when I started noticing the multiple attempts to unlock (maybe within the last year). Perhaps I need to take it in to have this TSB performed:

You need to read up on hybrid drive systems. Suffice it to say that ICE can charge the hybrid HVB and propel the car simultaneously. The size and thus the normal operating range of the C-max Hybrid HVB is very limited compared to the Energi and Volt. So, the EV range is very limited. So, ICE cycles on when the HVB falls below a threshold and when the battery nears it's upper operating range, the EV on threshold increases and ICE shuts off allowing EV operation. So it's a continual cycling of ICE/EV depending on conditions as one drives. So, when cruising at say 65 mph, EV range might be around 1- 2 mile on flat ground. The C-Max Hybrid can operate up to 85 in EV mode but for a very limited range. On last point, since the Volt has two clutches, ICE can charge the battery (I think its called charge sustaining mode) and the car can stay in EV mode with ICE running but not propelling the car.

Not quite. Think about what is the source of the energy in the C-Max? From the fuel burned. ;) Charging the high voltage battery is not "free". Some of the 13.46 gallons was used by ICE to propel the car (or warming up the car when stopped), the rest of the 13.46 gallons was used to charge the high voltage battery to propel the car via EV and to provide power for the electrical equipment . Some of the energy used to propel the car is recaptured via the traction motor acting as a generator when coasting and braking (regeneration).