bro1999

Seriously, what were they thinking. Compared to my Volt's side mirrors, they are parachutes. Interesting piece on side mirrors and affect on coefficient of drag and MPG numbers: http://www.metrompg.com/posts/mirrors.htm Mostly removing the side mirrors netted this person a 2.3% gain in MPG. You think Ford could have used an extra 2.3% in MPG early last year? :lol2:

Like: auto windshield wipers Dislike: over sensitive turn signals

So how hard is it to hook up all the wiring? I want to buy that trailer light wiring so I can connect the lights on my Thule rear hitch-mount cargo box.

Ok, I dug up the specs for the 2013 UK version of the C-Max, and the curb weight (listed as kerbweight in the brochure. ha) of the Ecoboost 2.0 version is 1550 kg (3417 lbs), while the gross vehicle weight (GVWR here) is 2050 kg (4519 lbs). So that means the total weight capacity of passengers + cargo is 1102 lbs. The US C-Max's have a 825 lb load capacity, or 277 less than the euro spec. I'm not sure of the differences of the suspension/frame/tires, etc....between the US and euro spec C-Max's, but assuming they use the same materials for each, it may be safe to assume the physical weight capacity of the 2 are the same. It could be that Ford chopped the load capacity of the US C-Max's due to the hybrid powertrain? It could also be the reason Ford kept the load capacity of the C-Max Energi at 825, because they knew even with the extra 252 lbs of batteries, the overall weight would still fall below the 1102 lb capacity of the euro spec C-Max, the 'true' figure. http://www.ford.co.uk/Hidden/iBrochure/C-MAX

+1 On the Chevy Volt owner's forum, there have been cases of sidewall blowouts, with the cause being extra stress put on the sidewalls due to UNDERinflation. If anything, under-inflation is more dangerous that overinflation, as far as tire blowouts are concerned. Especially with EVs like a Volt or NRG, where the vehicle weight is considerably more than a similar sized conventional ICE vehicle. Higher psi = less sidewall flexing.

Last month's year-over-year decline was 42%, so May's decline of 23% doesn't look nearly as bad as it first seems.

So did we ever come to a conclusion about differences between the hybrid and energi versions? From what I can gather from this thread, all the part numbers for the suspension and tires, etc.... are exactly the same. So basically the hybrid's GVWR rating can be (unofficially) boosted 250#?

It all depends on what region of the country you're in. In Michigan, yes, conventional hybrid vehicles have a smaller carbon footprint than an EV or PHEV (71% electricity from coal! wtf!), but in Cali, the CO2 emissions from an EV are almost half that of a hybrid (PHEV falls in between). In MD, EVs emit 32% less CO2 than hybrids, PHEVs 16% less (according to www.afdc.energy.gov). I'm pretty sure their info is at least 2 years old, and our electricity production must have shifted to less coal/oil since the numbers were last updated. Nationally, EVs are still slightly better than hybrids, with PHEVs slightly worse (but still waaaay better than conventional ICE vehicles).

I think any MPG hit for the cargo box is negligible, as it's out of the way, but with the roof rack only, I'd expect perhaps a 5-10% hit, closer to 5% in my experiences. Adding the roof basket is the killer....looking at a 20%+ hit. I only mount the basket when I need it. Roof rack is removable, but takes a bit of time to realign when putting it back on. Cargo box is held in by a screw, but you can buy a lock separately. I previously owned a GMC Terrain, and I had concerns about cargo capacity, but with the add ons, I can fit all the stuff I used to fit in the GMC with the box alone. The Cmax is actually a little bigger inside. Only exceptions are cargo capacity and rear leg room.

Here is my road trippin' setup (Rhino rack roof rack, Curt cargo basket, 2x Yakima High Rollers, Thule rear hitch-mount cargo box, 1x Ecohitch). And here it is fully loaded:

Thanks! I call my NRG the 'Road Warrior' when it's fully loaded. The Yakima bike racks (not pictured above) look like mounted cannons/machine guns when installed. lol

Charging @ 240V takes just over 2 hours from a depleted battery. On 120V, it's more like 5.5-6 hours. I have a Clipper Creek LCS-25 unit, which costs $495. Works just fine with my C-Max and Volt, and they both only charge at 3.3 kW, while the LCS-25 has a max output of 4.8 kW. About outdoor 120V charging, you'll have to consider whether an extension cord will be used, and also the condition of the outlet and whether any other outlets are on the same circuit inside the house. Plus there is always the small chance someone could swipe your L1 charging cord. =/ Charging @ 240V also is more efficient than 120, due to smaller charging losses. (30% on L1 vs ~20% on L2). You'll probably never save enough on electricity to make up the cost of the L2 unit, though. Getting a L2 installed is more about convenience and, to a smaller extent, safety.

My NRG at Big Meadows in Shenandoah National Park. (whoops, just realized this is the 'Blue Candy' thread. Hopefully no one minds my White Platinum C-Max crashing it. ;) )

Loaded up for a camping trip to Shenandoah! Family of 4 in tow.

With everything loaded, like pictured above, I've noticed about a 20% hit in EV range, though I'm still able to complete my round-trip commute on battery alone. Burning a few extra electrons is fine with me, though I would have removed the roof rack if it caused me to burn gas on my commute. With just the roof rack on top, the aero hit is minimal, at least according to my data. Here's the compilation of data recorded by myford mobile for my home to work AM commute (8 miles, ~57 mph on Eco cruise, 80/20 highway/local): Naked roof - 4.6 miles/kWh, avg temp: 46.7 w/Roof rack - 4.8 miles/kWh, avg temp: 57.8 (My efficiency recorded was actually better with the roof rack installed, though the 11 degree warmer temps probably explain the increase. I'm thinking the actual aero hit with the roof rack on is less than 5%.) fully loaded (Rhino Rack roof rack, 2 Yakima roof mount bike racks, Curt Cargo basket, Thule hitch-mount cargo box) - 3.68 miles/kWh, avg temp: 49.2 (About a 20% decrease in efficiency, compared to a naked roof)

Here's my NRG all pimped out, ready for camping.

It's White Platinum (the $$ paint =P). The Rhino Rack clamps that sit on the roof are rubber, and the clamps that clip to the door frame are also coated in rubber. I figure that's enough protection to ensure there's no paint damage, but I've heard some owners put some clear 3M film over the spot the clamps affix to as an extra precaution.

I've done 20% all around (except the windshield) in the past on my old car, a Volvo C30, and I never got hassled by cops. I even got stopped one time for speeding, but they didn't even mention the tint. I mainly want to get a dark tint so the kids in back don't have the sun shining in their eyes. Eh, perhaps I'll just go 30% all the way around. That's what I had done on the Volt, and it looks pretty nice. I agree that the half-tinted look does look unattractive. As for the windshield, 3M has a 'Crystalline' tint line you might want to check out. A lot of states bar tint of any kind on windshields, but the 3M Crystalline 90 (90% VLT) is basically clear, and the heat blocking properties are insane. I saw a windshield tinted with the 90, and I could have sworn it was factory glass. Only way to tell it was tinted was the 3M print marks on the film. I got the Crystalline 70 applied to the Volt, and it definitely helps to block solar energy from coming through the windshield (my Volt is black on black, so it gets toasty in the summer!). I would do the same for the C-Max, but it is a lease, and I don't want to spend $200 on windshield tint for a car I'll probably end up not keeping.

My C-Max buying experience was the smoothest car buying experience in my life...helped that I never set foot in the dealership! Got an out of state quote for a leftover '13, and the lease offer was just too good to pass up. Made the down payment over the phone, and the dealership had it delivered directly to my driveway the next day. Final paperwork was signed in the C-Max, and that was it! There is Ford dealership 2 miles from my house, but they didn't have any 2013s left, which is why I ended up looking out of state.

I also leased my C-Max, and I also didn't want to drill. I ended up getting the Torklift Ecohitch and this Rhino Rack roof rack system: http://www.cargogear.com/OneItemInfo.aspx?partnum=RKFOCMX14E I posted pics of my setup on the Energi forum: http://fordcmaxenergiforum.com/topic/2536-road-camping-warrior/ Ended up buying a couple of Yakima Highroller bike racks, Curt roof rack basket, and one of these a well: http://fordcmaxenergiforum.com/topic/2456-thule-transporter-665c-hitch-mount-cargo-box-review/ Take note that there is a metal tab that you have to bend back in order to install the Ecohitch. Once you do that, it's smooth sailing. With everything loaded, my C-Max looks more like a tank! ha

I think I'm going to go with the limo tint (or close to it) for the rear windows. If I ever get hassled by a cop, I'm gonna break out the "It's a UAV/MAV!" line. :victory:

So my insurance company (Amica Mutual) offers premium glass coverage insurance. For my C-Max, it costs $36 a year extra, so if I get a chip/crack/someone smashes my windows, they will replace the glass for free (instead of having to cough up the collision/comprehensive deductible). I initially declined that coverage on my C-Max, but then one day I was staring up through the moon roof and thought to myself, "Man, it would probably cost a ton to have the moon roof glass replaced". I called Amica and asked if the glass coverage included the moon roof. After a few minutes on hold, the rep told me that the moon roof was indeed covered. I decided to tack on the glass coverage that day. For those of you with the moon roof, you might want to inquire about glass coverage to your insurance company. I think some companies even include glass coverage with their standard quotes.

On the ford.com website, the C-Max is listed under the "Cars" tab and not the "crossover" tab. KBB classifies the C-Max as a wagon. Yahoo autos lists it as a hatchback. Hybridcars.com says the "C" in C-Max stands for C-class, and is recognized in the U.S. as a compact car. Others toss the C-Max in the CUV category. I compared a Buick Encore to a C-Max, and physically, the C-Max is larger than the Encore in every way (except for height), but the Encore is classified as a SUV. I know the C-Max is built on the same platform as the Focus, which is a compact car. Basic reason I am asking this is I am planning on getting my C-Max's windows tinted, and in Maryland, SUVs/large vehicles have no restrictions on rear window tint darkness, while cars are limited to 35% tint all the way around. Think I would be OK getting the windows tinted darker than 35%? I think officially I would be breaking MD law, but I guess it would all come down to whether a cop considers a C-Max an SUV or not. :p

Yeah, I didn't realize until today just how much of a hit it was. I've still been able to make my roundtrip commute (17 miles) on battery alone, which is one reason I've left it the basket up there. It's a big PITA to install that thing. I'm just pulling numbers out of thin air, but my guess is taking the basket off and having just the roof bars on top would reduce the range loss around 10%.

Well, I own an Energi, so I can't give you straight mpg #'s, but I can give you efficiency numbers with naked roof vs roof racks + Curt cargo basket. Completely naked roof: 89.5 miles / 21.7 kWh = 4.12 miles/kWh Rack + cargo basket: 87.7 miles / 26.4 kWh =3.32 miles/kWh 19% reduction in range. I would think the MPG hit in the hybrid would be similar? I only counted my regular commuting trips. I almost always drive between 55-60 mph, 75/25 highway/city split. This data was collected over the past 2 months.