Kelleytoons

Homer: But Marge, I swear, I never thought you'd find out!

"Husband, darling, I'm going to go get cleaned up now and... OH MY GOD!!"

Wow -- this is a long thread. Something I noticed over the last two days. First a little background: here in Florida (where I've only turned the heat on once so far this winter) when I was driving to my PT today (which I've been doing three times a week the last six weeks, so I'm pretty familiar with the route and mileage) I got 44 mpg which startled me since I've been averaging at least in the low 50's every single time (I usually get the high 50's/low 60's coming back, which I attribute to more EV and/or engine warmer -- it's about a 15 mile trip one way, and I'm at therapy for a little over an hour, but going there even when it's colder I seldom get less than 52 mpg or so. I average about 45 mph, with a 4 mile 60 mph stretch). However, the lights were on the whole time (it was overcast this morning). Is it possible the lights caused the drop in mileage? Or, I guess more to the point, has anyone determined the effect the headlights have on mpg? As a rule I drive with the lights off (they are on the auto setting). I still ended up averaging 50 mpg since I got 56 mpg coming home (a bit low but I attribute that to the cold -- it was about 50 degrees for the whole morning, which is cold here in Florida).

Yes, same here with six months (but only 4K -- just don't drive too many miles, although drive often). Maximis saved me today, as the Durango was parked in the driveway (I was sawing some lumber with my table saw in the garage) and although I knew it was behind me I could have sworn I had plenty of clearance. As I blithely backed up the backup warning sounds made me stop and realize I would have taken the sides off both vehicles if I had continued. I realize a lot of vehicles have this, but this was the first for me so really nice. In any case, now that I'm averaging in the high 50's for mpg (love winter in Florida!) it's making me SO glad I have this particular hybrid. It's more fun to drive now than the day I bought it.

Oh, I certainly plan on keeping the car (LOL) but I surely am NOT going to do it myself (heck, I don't even change the oil on our Durango myself anymore, although with the ground clearance it has it was the easiest oil change I ever did. But now I'm MUCH older and don't mind paying people to do that sort of thing). I guess what I was sort of thinking is that if the warning light (yellow, not red) came on it would be nice to know if it was just an emissions issue (and, sorry, greenie type folks, but that's a "don't worry about it" sort of problem) or something more serious. But I'll cross that bridge if and when I get to it.

Okay but now I'm curious about the info posted here. Can we or can we not see the code by simply powering the car on and holding down the left-hand OK button on the steering wheel, then scroll up or down through the screens to the DTC codes page? And, if so, what does the code tell us? IOW, if the first part of this is true, that we can see the code, does the code itself actually mean anything (to us, of course -- I know it means something to Ford). If I get a code like 007 is there somewhere I can look it up to see that there is a secret agent hidden in the trunk of my car (oops, excuse me, I don't have a trunk -- perhaps he's handing onto the under carriage)? Or are we no better off having a code because the numbers won't mean anything to us and we'd have to take it to the dealer anyway? So I guess there are two questions there -- anyone have any answers?

Yeah... although truth be told as much as I'm glad we have that color (and would pick it again) I'm thinking that the next car I get will be a candy apple red. Been a long time since I've had a red car -- so perhaps that will be my wife's new car. We both wanted the blue that the Honda came in -- truly gorgeous and a shame the C-Max doesn't come in the same color (neither one of us liked the blue the C-Max has). I guess if you had lots of money you could paint your car whatever you want...

And actually, all seriousness aside, you missed the point of my post completely. Trying to make a decision about any ONE thing based on a SINGLE INCIDENT is more of a fallacy than assuming lightning won't strike twice in the same place (which, actually, is more common than most folks think). I was just trying to show that just because you get a lemon doesn't mean you run away in the opposite direction but, rather, assume you will *not* be than unlucky again. While that poster didn't demonstrate it completely, we've seen other folks who say "well, I'll never buy another Ford again" as if a sample size of one made a convincing case. I totally understand folks who get frustrated by any single experience, but it's hardly a scientific way of approaching life. If you like a certain thing otherwise then having a single problem which no one else is having (or even few are having) convinces you not to try it again you just aren't thinking right (and missing out on a lot of good things). I had a similar situation with a pair of headphones I loved but had an issue with BT skipping. Few else were having this problem so I tried again with another pair. It was only after the third pair (and many attempts at solving the problem with the maker) that I finally gave up (because, as I said, I really liked everything else about them). Hopefully I'd be that patient with my Max if and when I have any difficulties.

Nah, I know all about that (I was a math major). The problem is you're confusing facts with Garp. Trust me, Garp is *always* right <g>.

As I always say, the absolute BEST time to try something again is after you've had an extraordinary bad experience with it. By that I mean an occurrence which is not the norm, because the odds of something like that happening again to you are drastically less. It's what I like to call the "World According to Garp" theory (which I've pasted here in another thread but I think it's worth revisiting): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBSAeqdcZAM If I were you I'd definitely get another C-Max (and I'm only half tongue-in-cheek here, as another Ice Storm C-Max owner in Florida I would never consider anything else).

Actually, here in Florida I'm routinely getting 60+ on nearly all my trips, even those where I average 50+ mph. Of course, the weather isn't as cold as some places but we're currently in a relatively cold period for us (we average in the high 60's during the winter as a rule and right now it is getting to a high of 60 and a low in the 40's). Today, for example, I drove about 50 miles and for the round trip I averaged about 73+, with mostly 50+ mph speeds (some city mileage, of about 20 miles, where I was doing about 35 mph). I love it -- during the summer I was averaging in the mid 40's, and now my lifetime average is slowly creeping up. I'm guessing that by the time I need to turn the A/C on again I'll have a lifetime average over 50 (but then, of course, it will drop again -- right now my hunch is that I'll get around 47 mpg for the year. Sigh).

Rob, I figured it out late last night and am sorry I ever gave the OP a rough time. I should have remembered what time of the year it is and given him a break due to the holidays. It is, of course, Festivus, and he was just participating in the first round, the airing of grievances. I will leave the "Feats of Strength" thread alone.

Actually, I celebrate Festivus. Time for the airing of grievances!

Not according to the Kelley Blue Book I checked -- did the dealer tell you this or did you look it up yourself? I found a price of $13K on a 10K mileage good condition C-Max SE 2013. Unless he's offering it to you at 9K he's a liar. (And if that is the case I would *definitely* not make a deal with that guy).

Same to you and yours, Brother Mike.

Or, if he's real touchy about offering you any better price, say you'll take the car with a three year, 36000 mile warranty. Again, he's trying to sell a car with a known problem that probably was NOT fixed (and it sounds like they don't even have a clue about it). As long as the price and/or warranty is good, you are as well. If not -- you can find better deals elsewhere.

Just looked at Kelley (ought to remember that name) Blue Book and a 2013 SE C-Max with 20K is going for around 13-14K depending on condition. So the dealer isn't offering you any deal on that lemon bought back vehicle. Personally I'd counter with 11K as my FINAL offer and if he hems and haws I'd lower it to an even 10K and walk away (you can always tell him "Good luck selling a car bought back under lemon law, particularly considering how many folks are still not happy with their battery problem solutions" and even print out a few of the forum threads here to that affect). At 10K or so even *I* would buy that car (but at the price he's offering you I'd run and not walk away).

Mileage?

Yeah, as I mentioned in the other thread you posted, make sure the dealer gives you a good price -- a good price can overcome a LOT of issues. Any car bought back under the lemon law ought to have at least 2-4K knocked off the Kelly Blue Book price or the dealer isn't trying very hard. If the dealer has a problem with your offer then walk away, making sure he has your phone number so that he can call you back when he gets desperate to sell (and he will :>). If the problem is truly fixed then it ought to show up in that year you have it, so the extra cash you have will be money in your pocket.

Of course that's a bit like someone saying their Max works great except for the battery problem <g>. But if you're okay with it not connecting properly don't worry about it (and 8.2 *might* fix things for you, although I'd doubt it).

I'd be skeptical that "reprogramming the computer" would solve the battery issue -- haven't seen anyone mention that as a fix (but perhaps they did and I just didn't see it). OTOH, if the deal is *really* good then you have to weigh the problems versus money saved. For me I'd take the price of, say, the Blue Book on such a vehicle and then lower it by at least 2-4K (to account for the battery issues that might come up) and if he meets that price you are in good shape.

Yeah, as a general rule it's not a Good Idea to install the newer iOS on any phone a few generations out. I would recommend anyone with anything less than an iPhone 5 to stick to the iOS they already have (IOW, don't install 8.x).

Yeah, I was asking Zac if it worked for him before he upgraded to 8.1.2, because I know it worked for me with 8.1 as well. But he may not respond -- he only has 7 posts here so I'm not sure how much (if any) time he actually spends coming back.

Hmmm, it works for me (although it will *not* recognize aliases. For example, I can dial my wife by saying "Call Annie Kelley" but not "Call my wife", even though Siri does know and recognize that command when used from the phone). Did it work for you with 8.1.1? Perhaps 8.1.2 broke it -- it's been known to happen. One of the suggestions Macworld and others are making is to perform a reset on your device to resolve bluetooth issues. I did not have to do this to get my phone working again with Sync but perhaps you would (note that a reset will require you to redo a lot of your settings. You won't lose contacts, mail, etc, but you will lose all your preferences). http://www.gottabemobile.com/2014/12/10/ios-8-1-2-problems-fixes/

I understand they've been making horses about the same as they have during the last few hundred years, so the obvious answer is... get a horse! (I bought one once and I came out one morning and it wouldn't start. Never going to buy something that dies ever again).