JohnTrigger

Found this article. Assuming it is true, an update to the hybrids will be in the "1st quarter of this year", whereas it says everyone else with Nav will be updated by this month (as has been reported elsewhere) http://www.usatoday.com/story/driveon/2012/11/29/ford-myford-touch-sync/1734133/

Mine looks the same as yours. Probably could have been cleaned up a little to help further dampen noise, but I guess it is what it is...

I've been using this a few times hooked up to the positive and negative posts underneath the hood to keep the 12V battery "topped off". So far, it hasn't "smoked" anything! So far, no dead battery either: http://batterytender.com/battery-tender-plus-12v-at-1-25a.html PS: you can find it cheaper on other websites

I like 303 Aerospace on car "leather" http://303products.com/media/pdfs/automotiveleather_edited.pdf

3.5.1 is out there for other Fords, not the CMax, not yet at least. Hopefully eventually we'll get it or another update (as 3.5.1 doesn't seem to be the most stable either from other forums on other Fords).

Speaking from experience, when removing the panel underneath, 2 of the 8 screw/fasteners are longer than the other 6, so pay attention to where they come from. I didn't realize this and just piled them in a pile, so upon reinstall, I just guessed the longer ones were for the holes in front of the tires, closest to the tires, but I am not sure 100%. Also, when putting the panel back up, it slides back about an inch or so and is held up by some tabs that are located on the car and engage the panel, about 6-8" infront of the back end of the panel on either side. If you get the tabs lined up right, the panel's holes will be lined up with the car's holes all around, and the back end of the panel will be held tighter to the bottom of the car, and the front end will sag a little until you put the screw fasteners back on, but it will hang there handsfree.

Those instructions unfortunately don't work, see my thread below http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/index.php?/topic/803-adding-a-third-intelligent-access-key-dealer-reprogramming/

I think (A) above using moderate accel

I think almost everywhere now adds 10% ethanol; there are websites that list pure gas stations. Ethanol, per gallon, has about significantly less BTU (British Thermal Units, a measure of energy) than a gallon of pure regular gasoline, thus you'll get significantly less gas mileage out of pure ethanol compared to pure dead dinosaurs in present engines (assuming you could run pure ethanol in todays engines-don't try it, and don't try E85 either). Since the mixture is 10% ethanol at most gas stations, your gas mileage will suffer about 1-2 MPG in a CMAX. Many states don't even require the pump be labeled with 10% ethanol, so you are probably getting it even if you think you are getting pure gas. Even 10% ethanol is hard on small engines due to its water retention (boats, weed eater, lawnmower, snow blower, etc), but supposedly doesn't hurt our cars (the ones made in the last 20 years), but it does "go stale" after a couple of months (why the Cmax Energi model has a special mode to use up its gas in its tank and why companies make products such as STA-BIL). I'd say get your 10% ethanol gas at a station that has lots of business, so it is getting used up and resupplied, and thus is as fresh as possible.

When I let off the gas pedal and truly glide in the CMAX, it does slow the car quite a bit. I suspect because the CMAX Hybrid battery has more capacity than the older ones, so it needs a more powerful regen capability which consumes more kinetic energy, thus slowing you more than previous versions. In my 2007 Ford Escape Hybrid, which BTW can only EV below 40 MPH, I can actually push on the gas a tiny bit after letting off the pedal and get a very good coast out of it and still charge the battery. In the FEH I can also put it into L gear when coming to a stop and get a stronger charge out of it when coming to a stop. However, in the CMAX when I try L gear, the ICE starts. In the FEH, the engine always starts initially when you start the car and runs until it gets warmed up, but the CMAX ICE rarely starts right away when I push the start button in the AM. So, there are definitely differences between the old and new Hybrids from Ford. I like the CMAXs version better than my FEH version, since you can go up to 62 MPH in EV--way more useful than only 40 MPH. But in the FEH, I still get about 35 MPG, so not bad. Either beats the gas milage in my '02 V-10 6.8L Excursion or my 03 Dodge Ram Hemi Pickup (I have all the gas mileage extremes covered!) When the CMAX ICE is running and the Hybrid battery is anything but full or nearly so (and thus being charged), I stay in the mid 30s MPG as well. On a few occasions when the battery gets "full", the MPG on ICE will get into the lower 40s MPG. I have not done a long highway trip at 65+ yet, where you can't EV since you are above the 62 MPH cutoff, and thus the Hybrid battery will get full and ICE will be on all the time--then I suspect the MPG will go into the lower 40s. I doubt you'll ever see 47 at true highway speeds, as the EPA test is different than 65-70 MPH driving.

kechair, I agree with the above post by Jus-A-Cmax. I also think it depends on the roadway in front of you to some extent. For example, if I am low on battery and have a hill coming up directly in front of me, I gently use the ICE to go up the hill and charge the battery at the same time, since the hill will eat up the battery quicker anyway. If, however, I am on a flat piece of road for a while or a slight decline, I try to stay in EV as long as possible. If a fairly steep decline, I let off the gas entirely and coast, allowing a gravity assist regen. It also depends a little on traffic and how close the guy is behind me. When I am charging the battery, I try to keep the white KW arc as low on the Empower display as I can, thus keeping the MPG arc as high as possible. That is what I'm doing so far, anyway.

Reference my post immediately above, today I couldn't even duplicate my own results, that I was able to duplicate last week. So maybe it is FLAKEY and having Gremlins. But the post above does seem a little repeatable if I use the passenger door in the scenario above. None of it is explained in the manual, all by trial and error....

While I agree that the later Focus and Escape perform well on the OTHER tests, they haven't tested the Focus nor Escape in the SMALL overlap frontal crash tests either, so we don't know how these two perform on that test, do we? Or am I reading something wrong?

Regarding the radio "staying on": Did you by chance first turn the car off while the radio was still playing, and then prior to opening the door you pushed the hard power off button (not the software one on the screen, but the hardware one near the INPUT bar)? If you did it in that exact sequence, you are actually turning the MFT screen back ON instead of turning the radio OFF (when the car is shut down and the MFT screen is on and you open the door, the MFT (and thus the radio) will go off, so by hitting the "hard" button after the car is off, you are telling the MFT to come back on). Put differently, if you are driving down the road and push the "hard" power button, it toggles the radio on and off, as you would expect. But, if the car is shut off, and you push the "hard" power button, you toggle the MFT system on (and if the radio was already on, it will be on again when the screen turns back on). In other words, the button behaves differently depending on whether the car is on or off. Sorry, can't help you with the remotes not working, unless you have it near your cell phone in your pocket, and then the cell phone will interfere with the remote's radio frequency.

Yes, as described in first post above, my new fob is ALMOST identical to the original two. The model number differs from EC on the new one, and ED on the orignals as the last two digits, but I had to pop it open and remove the metal key and use a magnifying glass to figure that out. The picture on the hatchback pushbutton is different on the new one, otherwise it LOOKS identical. But, it works fine now--I bet they didn't take 15 minutes for them to program it once they had the car in the garage. I suspect your key from EBAY is not compatable. You said they tried two more new ones, were they the same as your orignal CMAX fobs or the same as your EBAY fob? Either that, or your dealer doesn't know what they are doing. You can only add 4 total IA keys, just FYI. Model years that use the IA keys prior to 2013 CMAX were able to program yourself assuming two orginals were available, using the procedure I attached in the first quote. But, not ours for some aggrevating reason...

I went in to get the third key programmed at my local small town Ford Dealership this AM, and they used the computer to do so. About 30 minutes total time from checkin to done. Now, three keys work (original two and my third one I bought). I brought all 3 in, and I suspect they deleted two and added three keys back. Unfortunately, it has cost me about $140 for the keyfob with my specific precut emergency key, and $90 for the programming, as i said in the first post. So, it is possible to get a third Intelligent Access keyfob for the CMAX SEL, but you can't program it yourself.

Your Sirius often will not work in the garage, as it is satellite reception dependent. And yes, if you read my post above, I think the battery will certainly run down to some extent (read my accidental scenario above).

Sorry, this might read a little out of sequence, because I had this page open as I went out and tried to run a test. In the meantime you guys have been talking and making this thread longer and covering some of my material that I typed below, but I'll post my results anyway... I just went out to the car and tried numerous scenarios on my SEL with the Sony upgrade. I was able to push the "hard power" button (the one an inch or so in front of the SOURCES bar, between it and the 8" screen) on my Sony 303 system and get the 8" color screen to come on in all of the scenarios I tried (after opening the door and letting the car go to a cold state or locking myself in the car, whatever, it worked for me just now in this test). I was then able to listen to the radio without any accessory mode or pushing of the start button. I did have the key in my pocket, if that makes a difference. Radio kept playing as I opened and closed the door as well. I could change input sources (FM, Sirius, etc). It was cold and late, so I'll try again tomorrow to do a more thorough test of sequences. By the way, because of the above, I have twice "accidently" left the radio playing when I was walking away from the car because of this--I have a habit of pushing the hard power button to shut things off when I am shutting of the car, and sometimes I get out of sequence and evidently turn it back on. I can hear the stereo playing as I am walking away from the car after locking it, so I have to get back in and turn it off with the hard power button. I wonder if this scenario is why some people are having dead batteries....

I got one of these sunshades discussed in the first post a month or so ago. It is definitely great quality, but it is VERY bulky. Kind of built like a tank, and it is big as one, so it is a tradeoff. I like it overall, but must store it in the backseat or in the cargo area if your backseat is often occupied.

PWBarrett, Thanks for sharing that. I have an appointment on Monday AM to try to have them program my third key that is supposedly the proper type. I am not hopeful as they are more confused about it than I am at this point, but I was assuming their computer would have the proper instructions and procedure once they hooked it up--your experience scares me now. I hope they don't screw it up and leave me with zero keys! I'll let you know what I learn and if mine is successful.

For me it worked basically right away, not much "delay" to it. I followed the instructions in the README file within the download.

I used this file to reboot mine when it started acting up, but prior to it locking up. It reboots it but doens't lose your configuration or presets: http://outofmytouch.com/reboot.html

Sorry, I think you edited your post after I posted the above. The emergency key blank for you is different since you got a different keyfob. The 164-R8045 is the blank for our existing keys, I think. I hope your keyfob works out for you.

My local small town dealership didn't know either, but they were very helpful in trying to figure it out for me. I bought the car from a different, larger dealership, but I like the local one for any non-routine maintenance. The key you got off Ebay won't have the proper cut on your emergency key, but you can probably get a local locksmith to cut it if you have a blank one. If the blank it is missing, you can try to order a part number 164-R8045 off the internet, I think, but it won't be precut either, just a blank. It shouldn't be this hard....

You'll get two keys (Integrated Keyhead Transmitter, a key with a chip) if you have the keyed start, or two keyless keyfobs (Intelligent Access Key) if you have pushbutton start. If you have the IKT key, you can program a third key yourself assuming you have two keys on hand and get a third key cut; suggest you do this before you lose one, because if you only have one, you have to have the dealer reprogram the chip in the keys for you. If you have the IA pushbutton start, a new keyfob and programming will run you about $140 for the keyfob (that contains a precut emergency key specific to your vehicle) and about $90 for them to reprogram the vehicle. See my other thread on this topic in this section. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/index.php?/topic/803-adding-a-third-intelligent-access-key-dealer-reprogramming/