JohnTrigger

Bottom line up front: To add a third Intelligent Access (IA) Key (i.e. the keyless, push button start, key fob) to the CMAX SEL requires the dealer to use their computer, and requires you wallet to lose about $230 total ($140 for the fob with your specific precut emergency key, and about $90 to program). At least that is what I am figuring out.... Long story: I wanted to get a third key fob (intelligent access key) for the push button start for my CMAX SEL, "just in case". On previous Fords, if you had two keys, you could program a third one yourself (and avoid the dealer programming cost) by following some procedure that typically consisted of cycling the new and old keys several times. By doing this, you could save money in case you ever lost one of your keys (as you would still have two and could reprogram another yourself). Our CMAX owners manual has this procedure for those of you with the keyed start (called an integrated keyhead transmitter), but for the keyless option (intelligent access (IA) key fob), the manual says "see your dealer to have additional keys programmed to your vehicle". I asked at my local Ford dealer, and they spent about 30 minutes time looking up a "do it yourself" procedure for me, but were unable to find anything in their records. I was still hoping to outsmart the owner's manual, and I found this programming procedure for FORD IA keyfobs (attached) on the web, and hoped it would work for the CMAX IA keys. So I went back to the local dealership and ordered a new keyfob with my specific precut emergency key. By the way, the new IA keyfob they ordered for me, after looking it up for me, says 7S7T-15K601EC on the inside of the fob (the ones that came with the car say 7S7T-15K601ED on the inside, and I think 164-8048 is another "crossreference"): I THINK the only difference between ...EC and ...ED is the picture of the hatch on the fob. You order it with your precut keycode so they can precut the metal emergency key that is inside that matches your vehicle. Your keycode was on a small rectangular sticker in your pack of paperwork, that looks like a UPC code with a 5 digit number written on it. If you don't have that keycode, you have to have the dealer look it up on their system for your VIN and you must provide proof of ownership (ID and registration type thing, so they can make sure you are who you say you are). So, I got my keyfob and precut emergency key today, and tried the attached procedure, except I used the location on the side of the steering column instead of the utility compartment pocket (the pocket applies to other vehicles, our CMAX uses the location on the steering column for a dead transmitter, I think). I also tried the utility compartment in case I didn't understand something. I tried other programming methods in our manual where it talks about doors autolocking and unlocking. None of them worked to program my new keyfob. My precut key works, but of course it only opens the door and sets off the alarm about 12 seconds later! So, unless anyone has any brilliant ideas for me to try, I have an appointment on Monday to get the third IA keyfob programmed to my vehicle by the dealership (actually they delete the two existing keys, and add back the three keys, I'm told, supposedly at another $90 cost. Assuming my experience described above is "all true", you might as well wait until you lose one of your IA keyfobs and just get a replacement at that time; don't waste your money now, you might not ever need one. On Board Programming 15.pdf

I wish it would have worked for you, and for all of our sakes. I had my doubts that it would, since the TSB 12-11-1 that applies many other Fords and Lincolns to update to 3.5.1 says the following: "THIS PROCEDURE DOES NOT APPLY TO FOCUS BATTERY ELECTRIC VEHICLES (BEV) AND FUSION HYBRID VEHICLES DUE TO UNIQUE SOFTWARE APPLICATIONS." So, it doesn't sound like it is a procedural problem, but instead software related, based on the quote above. That said, not sure how that person with the Fusion Hybrid got it to work that you are referencing.... The fact you couldn't get it to work probably means we'll be several months until we CMAX'ers get an update. Oh well, it is not "that broken" in its present 3.1.3 state. I hope you didn't "brick" your system.

Update to my post above. Someone on a different post said to try a "slow and steady" kick when the car is locked, and I did that and it WORKED. Only one "slow and steady" kick required when vehicle locked.

I stand corrected to what I posted above about ALWAYS needing two kicks when CMAX is locked. I tried your "slow and steady" method when car was locked, and it worked for me. It is a fairly exaggerated "slow" kick to get it to work. I was evidently kicking "too fast". Thanks.

Thanks Guys for the confirmation of the current CMAX Sync MFT version, 3.1.3., as of Christmas day 2012. I've read on syncmyride.com it will be January for the SD Nav card update, for all vehicles with Nav, except the BEV vehicles. I think we CMAX owners will need to wait for the NAV cards, AND then also wait for them to (hopefully someday) update the BEV version as well.

What is the current version of MFT on the Ford CMax (SEL)? I have the SD navigation. My CMAX SEL is 1 month old, and has MFT Gen 2, Version 3.1.3. installed and syncmyride.com does not show any updates for me. I know the BEV (battery electric vehicles) have some (supposedly) uniqueness to them as far as MFT is concerned, so we are not yet able to get 3.5.1 or even 3.2.2, as far as I know. Does anyone with a CMAX have a newer version of MFT than 3.1.3? Does anyone know when we might get an update for the BEV vehicles, specifically the CMAX?

That is how mine is working too. Two kicks when it is locked, only one when doors are already unlocked.

When my MFT screen froze and wouldn't reset on its own, I first decided to disconnect the battery, but it is not under the hood in the front on a CMAX SEL. The 12V battery is in the back end of the vehicle, underneath the vehicle, behind the rear wheels, inside a rectangle plastic box. So, I didn't try that, since I didn't feel like crawling under the vehicle at that time. Instead, I disconnected the 7.5 Amp fuze #67(Cell phone Passport (CMax Energi)) and 15 Amp fuze #79 (Radio Hazard Light Switch), which are hidden under the dash in the passenger compartment after removing two plastic clips and pulling the carpet back. After pulling those two fuzes, it rebooted on its own. Not sure why #67 worked for me, but when I initially pulled only #79, it did not work, so I pulled #67 too (even though it says it is for the Energi model). Who knows.

That is identical to what I found so far as well; everytime. It is not described that way in the manual, but I suspect that is how it is designed to work. Who knows.