JohnTrigger

Sorry, this might read a little out of sequence, because I had this page open as I went out and tried to run a test. In the meantime you guys have been talking and making this thread longer and covering some of my material that I typed below, but I'll post my results anyway... I just went out to the car and tried numerous scenarios on my SEL with the Sony upgrade. I was able to push the "hard power" button (the one an inch or so in front of the SOURCES bar, between it and the 8" screen) on my Sony 303 system and get the 8" color screen to come on in all of the scenarios I tried (after opening the door and letting the car go to a cold state or locking myself in the car, whatever, it worked for me just now in this test). I was then able to listen to the radio without any accessory mode or pushing of the start button. I did have the key in my pocket, if that makes a difference. Radio kept playing as I opened and closed the door as well. I could change input sources (FM, Sirius, etc). It was cold and late, so I'll try again tomorrow to do a more thorough test of sequences. By the way, because of the above, I have twice "accidently" left the radio playing when I was walking away from the car because of this--I have a habit of pushing the hard power button to shut things off when I am shutting of the car, and sometimes I get out of sequence and evidently turn it back on. I can hear the stereo playing as I am walking away from the car after locking it, so I have to get back in and turn it off with the hard power button. I wonder if this scenario is why some people are having dead batteries....

I got one of these sunshades discussed in the first post a month or so ago. It is definitely great quality, but it is VERY bulky. Kind of built like a tank, and it is big as one, so it is a tradeoff. I like it overall, but must store it in the backseat or in the cargo area if your backseat is often occupied.

PWBarrett, Thanks for sharing that. I have an appointment on Monday AM to try to have them program my third key that is supposedly the proper type. I am not hopeful as they are more confused about it than I am at this point, but I was assuming their computer would have the proper instructions and procedure once they hooked it up--your experience scares me now. I hope they don't screw it up and leave me with zero keys! I'll let you know what I learn and if mine is successful.

For me it worked basically right away, not much "delay" to it. I followed the instructions in the README file within the download.

I used this file to reboot mine when it started acting up, but prior to it locking up. It reboots it but doens't lose your configuration or presets: http://outofmytouch.com/reboot.html

Sorry, I think you edited your post after I posted the above. The emergency key blank for you is different since you got a different keyfob. The 164-R8045 is the blank for our existing keys, I think. I hope your keyfob works out for you.

My local small town dealership didn't know either, but they were very helpful in trying to figure it out for me. I bought the car from a different, larger dealership, but I like the local one for any non-routine maintenance. The key you got off Ebay won't have the proper cut on your emergency key, but you can probably get a local locksmith to cut it if you have a blank one. If the blank it is missing, you can try to order a part number 164-R8045 off the internet, I think, but it won't be precut either, just a blank. It shouldn't be this hard....

You'll get two keys (Integrated Keyhead Transmitter, a key with a chip) if you have the keyed start, or two keyless keyfobs (Intelligent Access Key) if you have pushbutton start. If you have the IKT key, you can program a third key yourself assuming you have two keys on hand and get a third key cut; suggest you do this before you lose one, because if you only have one, you have to have the dealer reprogram the chip in the keys for you. If you have the IA pushbutton start, a new keyfob and programming will run you about $140 for the keyfob (that contains a precut emergency key specific to your vehicle) and about $90 for them to reprogram the vehicle. See my other thread on this topic in this section. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/index.php?/topic/803-adding-a-third-intelligent-access-key-dealer-reprogramming/

Bottom line up front: To add a third Intelligent Access (IA) Key (i.e. the keyless, push button start, key fob) to the CMAX SEL requires the dealer to use their computer, and requires you wallet to lose about $230 total ($140 for the fob with your specific precut emergency key, and about $90 to program). At least that is what I am figuring out.... Long story: I wanted to get a third key fob (intelligent access key) for the push button start for my CMAX SEL, "just in case". On previous Fords, if you had two keys, you could program a third one yourself (and avoid the dealer programming cost) by following some procedure that typically consisted of cycling the new and old keys several times. By doing this, you could save money in case you ever lost one of your keys (as you would still have two and could reprogram another yourself). Our CMAX owners manual has this procedure for those of you with the keyed start (called an integrated keyhead transmitter), but for the keyless option (intelligent access (IA) key fob), the manual says "see your dealer to have additional keys programmed to your vehicle". I asked at my local Ford dealer, and they spent about 30 minutes time looking up a "do it yourself" procedure for me, but were unable to find anything in their records. I was still hoping to outsmart the owner's manual, and I found this programming procedure for FORD IA keyfobs (attached) on the web, and hoped it would work for the CMAX IA keys. So I went back to the local dealership and ordered a new keyfob with my specific precut emergency key. By the way, the new IA keyfob they ordered for me, after looking it up for me, says 7S7T-15K601EC on the inside of the fob (the ones that came with the car say 7S7T-15K601ED on the inside, and I think 164-8048 is another "crossreference"): I THINK the only difference between ...EC and ...ED is the picture of the hatch on the fob. You order it with your precut keycode so they can precut the metal emergency key that is inside that matches your vehicle. Your keycode was on a small rectangular sticker in your pack of paperwork, that looks like a UPC code with a 5 digit number written on it. If you don't have that keycode, you have to have the dealer look it up on their system for your VIN and you must provide proof of ownership (ID and registration type thing, so they can make sure you are who you say you are). So, I got my keyfob and precut emergency key today, and tried the attached procedure, except I used the location on the side of the steering column instead of the utility compartment pocket (the pocket applies to other vehicles, our CMAX uses the location on the steering column for a dead transmitter, I think). I also tried the utility compartment in case I didn't understand something. I tried other programming methods in our manual where it talks about doors autolocking and unlocking. None of them worked to program my new keyfob. My precut key works, but of course it only opens the door and sets off the alarm about 12 seconds later! So, unless anyone has any brilliant ideas for me to try, I have an appointment on Monday to get the third IA keyfob programmed to my vehicle by the dealership (actually they delete the two existing keys, and add back the three keys, I'm told, supposedly at another $90 cost. Assuming my experience described above is "all true", you might as well wait until you lose one of your IA keyfobs and just get a replacement at that time; don't waste your money now, you might not ever need one. On Board Programming 15.pdf

I wish it would have worked for you, and for all of our sakes. I had my doubts that it would, since the TSB 12-11-1 that applies many other Fords and Lincolns to update to 3.5.1 says the following: "THIS PROCEDURE DOES NOT APPLY TO FOCUS BATTERY ELECTRIC VEHICLES (BEV) AND FUSION HYBRID VEHICLES DUE TO UNIQUE SOFTWARE APPLICATIONS." So, it doesn't sound like it is a procedural problem, but instead software related, based on the quote above. That said, not sure how that person with the Fusion Hybrid got it to work that you are referencing.... The fact you couldn't get it to work probably means we'll be several months until we CMAX'ers get an update. Oh well, it is not "that broken" in its present 3.1.3 state. I hope you didn't "brick" your system.

Update to my post above. Someone on a different post said to try a "slow and steady" kick when the car is locked, and I did that and it WORKED. Only one "slow and steady" kick required when vehicle locked.

I stand corrected to what I posted above about ALWAYS needing two kicks when CMAX is locked. I tried your "slow and steady" method when car was locked, and it worked for me. It is a fairly exaggerated "slow" kick to get it to work. I was evidently kicking "too fast". Thanks.

Thanks Guys for the confirmation of the current CMAX Sync MFT version, 3.1.3., as of Christmas day 2012. I've read on syncmyride.com it will be January for the SD Nav card update, for all vehicles with Nav, except the BEV vehicles. I think we CMAX owners will need to wait for the NAV cards, AND then also wait for them to (hopefully someday) update the BEV version as well.

What is the current version of MFT on the Ford CMax (SEL)? I have the SD navigation. My CMAX SEL is 1 month old, and has MFT Gen 2, Version 3.1.3. installed and syncmyride.com does not show any updates for me. I know the BEV (battery electric vehicles) have some (supposedly) uniqueness to them as far as MFT is concerned, so we are not yet able to get 3.5.1 or even 3.2.2, as far as I know. Does anyone with a CMAX have a newer version of MFT than 3.1.3? Does anyone know when we might get an update for the BEV vehicles, specifically the CMAX?

That is how mine is working too. Two kicks when it is locked, only one when doors are already unlocked.

When my MFT screen froze and wouldn't reset on its own, I first decided to disconnect the battery, but it is not under the hood in the front on a CMAX SEL. The 12V battery is in the back end of the vehicle, underneath the vehicle, behind the rear wheels, inside a rectangle plastic box. So, I didn't try that, since I didn't feel like crawling under the vehicle at that time. Instead, I disconnected the 7.5 Amp fuze #67(Cell phone Passport (CMax Energi)) and 15 Amp fuze #79 (Radio Hazard Light Switch), which are hidden under the dash in the passenger compartment after removing two plastic clips and pulling the carpet back. After pulling those two fuzes, it rebooted on its own. Not sure why #67 worked for me, but when I initially pulled only #79, it did not work, so I pulled #67 too (even though it says it is for the Energi model). Who knows.

That is identical to what I found so far as well; everytime. It is not described that way in the manual, but I suspect that is how it is designed to work. Who knows.