jestevens

I have SEL with 203A and I leave the right hand display on the instrument cluster set to Navigation. The best way I can describe it is every once in great while (like maybe twice so far in the life of the car) it seems like the car has just been started and for whatever reason the GPS is too slow to respond to being polled by the Navigation display in the driver's cluster. The message typically goes away in a few seconds once NAV has initialized all the way. Why that same message is showing up on an SE that isn't equipped with navigation I'm not really sure although I heard a rumor on here that all of the cars have GPS receiver built in, they just don't have all the bells and whistles that enable full turn by turn navigation. I could easily see the compass still using GPS receiver data in a very reduced way.

Paul, did you see the Tesla Model 3 comes standard with some sort of "Eco Wheel" hubcaps? They look suspiciously kind of like your Lexan wheel covers.

There is a delayed camera off setting in SYNC, so that when you shift out of reverse the camera doesn't immediately shut off, it waits until the MPH increases a bit and then shuts off. I'll check for the menu location next time I'm in the car.

Microsoft software is just cool like that.. :)

I've never had a problem due to temperature and we've had a handful of days down to 0F last winter. I have had where it didn't read the ground loop until I'd put my hand all the way around the handle (instead of just touching the front) in order to unlock. I've also had where it didn't seem to notice until I pulled on the handle and tried it again.. Prius used to have a button under the steering column to turn off the smart key radio if you went away from the car for a long time (couple of weeks at airport, etc.) so the 12V wouldn't be drained. Maybe Ford does something better to put the car into deep sleep - pulling on the handle to wake it up would be a nice compromise but I'm just guessing..

Combined with your other message about low power/loss of 12V.. "Routine maintenance" might be a "disk" check if the onboard entertainment computer was powered down improperly due to loss of 12V.. Or it could just be a regularly scheduled disk check. Suspect a low 12V battery?

The P7's had an "issue" if you want to call it that - when they would first bite into snow the handling squirmed around a bit but after that initial push through the snow they actually had fairly good traction in light snow. They also seemed fairly quiet. My only two issues were it seemed like I took a hit in MPG vs. OEM tires and the wear life didn't seem to be that long, otherwise they were a good tire. With the OEM tires it seemed like by varying driving technique I could vary MPG, with the P7's it seemed like the tires were a little bit "stickier" - the best, and worst I could get was around 40MPG with the PSI at around 42.

With respect to the citizens concerned for the dog I know the engine doesn't always run but you'd think the obnoxiously loud noise that the A/C compressor makes while it is running would be a clue to others that something is going on with the car.. Yes, it does charge while the engine is on, in stop and go traffic when the battery is low sometimes it only charges when you put your foot on the throttle, until it finally gives up and idles for a few seconds on its own. It was one of the more unnerving things about driving the Prius too - if the battery is depleted in stop and go traffic then the engine comes on with every push of the throttle and shuts off when you take your foot off the gas. I guess it's very environmentally friendly that way but just sort of alien to the way the car normally operates.

I have factory lights and the headlights also have to be switched on to use the fog lights, I think being able to switch them off and on independent of the headlights might be beneficial for you anyway. I don't get enough FOG to really tell a difference where I live.

I've also tried the Pirelli P7' LRR tires also which I liked but I guess I drive too aggressively because none of these tires seem to be all that long-wearing for me. I'm currently using Goodyear Assurance Fuel Max recommended by dealer - they have been okay. I put them on last year and expect to change them either this fall or next Spring depending on how much tread is left for the winter.

I have the iPhone SE and an SEL with the SYNC2 MFT Display and it works with the last version of SYNC 2 they issued. it supports Bluetooth audio streaming from the phone and voice calls, built in texting though SYNC does NOT work, but CarPlay does work. e.g. If you hold the voice button on the steering wheel for a few seconds longer than usual Siri comes on if you have an internet connection and you can ask it if you have any new messages. The iPhone SE came out the same time as iPhone 6, I'd have to guess iPhone 7 probably works too but haven't tested it personally. At first I hated that SYNC couldn't integrate with messages because I really liked SYNC reading the messages to me but I guess I've gotten used to just ignoring texts while driving or asking Siri to read them to me if I'm expecting an important message. I try not to use the phone while driving anyway.

With my last sync update I didn't want to waste the gas just to update the infotainment computer so I started the upgrade before I left the house, drove to the grocery store while it was running. Parked the car and left it in READY mode while it was still updating. When I got out of the car it didn't want to lock the door because the engine was still on but I was able to get out of the car and override it using the key fob buttons. After a few seconds it registered the lock command - I went shopping and when I came back out Sync was just about done upgrading. Since the critical vehicle systems aren't that tied into the embedded infotainment system that much I didn't have any issues.

I googled around and apparently (at least on other cars) this is a symptom of condenser fan not working.. When the car is moving there is enough airflow for cooling to work, but not when stationary.

It is true that the AC compressor is an electrically driven compressor. The one thing to note with these cars is that you can manually turn the AC compressor off and on - does the neon green VFD display above the actual climate controls near the bottom of the center stack say "AC ON" or "AC OFF" when you are expecting the cold air? If you press the AC button which is the furthest button on the left does it improve the situation? There's a toggle for AC on the touch screen climate controls too. Other than that maybe something is wrong with the compressor. The MAX AC button on the knob and the red defrost button quickly put all the controls at maximum for either climate condition, usually you can press the "Auto" button twice to get the climate controls to reset to a thermostatically controlled situation with AC enabled.

I never understood why there wasn't a corresponding global express UP, I guess it's more dangerous if folks aren't expecting all the windows to roll up rather than down. Maybe they should make it honk or something when it does this..

The coolant is bright orange (sort of like the color of orange punch), you should be able to see it in the recovery tank for both the engine and the inverter coolant tank, does yours look burnt or have metal flakes in it or something? Unless someone put the wrong coolant in it or a pump mechanically failed I can't think why you would need to do all of that at 32K mi.. I've got 75K mi using the cheap gas and never once did my dealer recommend an injector service. Seems like they would like to sell you a bunch of services on top of the warranty work you actually needed done, maybe you should try taking it to a different shop and get a second opinion?

Works better now, just push a small flat blade screwdriver under the squeezy side clips of the FOB and wiggle gently to separate the top and bottom clips/halves, put replacement battery 2032 in writing side down. There was an admonition on the video I was watching not to let the screwdriver forcefully slip into the key cavity and break off some of the components on the circuit board or else you'd be buying a new key.

Yes, I think I have some spare coin cell batteries, I'm going to change the FOB battery soon.

Still on the original 12V - I had a 2006 HHR that had similar setup with 12V in the trunk and I never replaced that battery either at least 5 years and the battery test kept coming back good. I did replace the 12V battery on my Prius, boy that was fun disassembling all of the HV battery pack ductwork, moving the brake controller, trying hard not to drop the bolts down into the frame, telling some guy in the parking lot of the auto parts store at 9PM that, no I really didn't want to buy his rims, it also would have helped if they gave me the right size battery at the store to start with. On the plus side I learned that there was good acoustic insulation in the trunk, when my head was in there all I could hear of the guy was the sound that the teacher from "Peanuts" used to make. Shame he tried to carry on a conversation for 20 minutes while my head was stuck in the trunk. ("Waa-Wuun-Whhaa--Whha-Nooo?" "What?! I can't hear anything!") So in all I think the trunk is a great place for 12V battery. You also know to look for a new mechanic when they are stumped that there's no battery under the hood.

I looked at that too but is the GPS module separate from the APIM? I wonder which module is causing the problem? Do a google search here for "Getting GPS Module Replaced". I don't know what the original poster paid to get replaced or upgraded? If the GPS tracking is off it looks like other forum members got relief from a dealer who replaced their GPS module.

So the problem is with the A7 map data? Or maybe with the routines that interpret the data? I have heard people complaining about the GPS calibration independent of getting a map upgrade, maybe those were the folks who already had the A7 map included at the factory before they realized there was an issue.

There's TSB 14-0037 out about the GPS calibration - have you pointed that out to them? I would call back and start over again - maybe you'll find another customer care person who will be more sympathetic. Put the old map in for a while and see if the issue still persists. I hate to say it but working as a support specialist in other fields it's sometimes the job of first line support to solve things with nice, cheap words - if they can get you to go away on the first try then they've done their job. Do I think it's right? No, and not every customer care center acts that way, in the long run if they do it enough times it will hurt their business. Go back to the dealer where you bought the ESP and let them know much you've liked Ford for the past 7 years?

I saw a post on another forum that shows how the blade is stored under the back cover of the FOB, you just squeeze the two tabs and pull up on the Ford logo.

Had a little scare yesterday. I was parked at hotel parking lot overnight and as I went to put bags in the back of the car, the liftgate wouldn't open. Went around to the back door and grabbed the handle, it wouldn't unlock. Grabbed the front handle, it wouldn't unlock. I thought for a minute the 12V battery was dead. I was fumbling around with the smartkey because I couldn't remember how to get the actual key out of the FOB. After another minute I grabbed the handle and the door unlocked. I immediately checked the headlights, etc. to see if I had left anything on and no. The car started right up and it worked fine thereafter. I guess the car must've been in some sort of deep sleep or something was interfering with the FOB signal. No indication that the FOB battery was low. Is there a key in the FOB, and if so how do you get to it. I see that there are some indentations on the side.. Thanks!

Switching to reverse when the wipers are "on" is the only time mine does that, it's actually a nice feature. My car is always parked outside. Maybe if you park the car in garage and leave the wipers on auto it's more noticeable when it tracks across a dry rear window?