jestevens

So if you exit the car with the FOB in your pocket and close all the doors with the engine is still "running" it will honk twice to remind you the engine is still on? Is this the behavior you are talking about? The Prius used to just make one long annoying beep outside the car. If you exit the car and close all the doors with the FOB -inside- the car with the engine running I -think- it will unlock one of the doors..driver side? I had weird thing happen just the other day when I opened the passenger side door to get something in the glovebox and realized i wanted to close the panoramic glass shade so I reached over from passenger side to turn car on to accessory mode, closed the shade, pushed the button twice to turn car off (once for engine start and another for OFF right?) and although the display showed the lifetime mileage nothing was actually powering down - I got out of the car and the gauge cluster was still fully illuminated as if I had just started the car in accessory mode. I had to go in the driver's side and turn the car fully on and then off in order to resume normal behavior.

I like his videos a lot - thanks for sharing

My liftgate motor has enough force that it literally slams the door shut I think. Replaced the original OEM battery last year with like kind when the car failed to unlock with RF key multiple times in cold weather..had to use the emergency key to get in. Ford didn't want to replace because their battery tester said it was fine, it's not an inexpensive battery, Motorcraft "extended range" or some crap like that - even with the special they were running at the time I think it cost about $200 including labor at the dealer but no more problems and I wasn't about to try to change it myself outside in 5F weather. So many "modules" in this car and if they don't get proper voltage weird things can start happening.

It sounds like normal operation to me - the AC compressor is variable speed, powered directly off the HVB similar to a Prius so in extremely hot weather it is going to draw down the battery quite a lot. Your engine should start more frequently to charge up the battery to compensate. Right now I am experiencing the reverse in PA, as it is 30 degrees or below the engine runs more to generate cabin heat, the battery gets all of the energy it can handle. The Energi has a bigger battery so they are able to use that for cabin heat but I have only the standard hybrid. Still, the stock MPG in winter is around 31 which better than I could ever do with my HHR even on a good day. The 12V battery must have enough charge to run the computers, which close the relay on the HVB battery pack and command energy to be used from the HVB to spin the generator, which spins the crankshaft, which starts the engine. Sort of like a Model T, but a lot more complicated. This is the best way to go if you are constantly starting and stopping the engine vs. using a traditional starter or coil pack I'd guess.

I know the prius had several different idle states and modes of operation depending on the SoC, ICE, engine temp and other variables - someone once did a detailed analysis on priuschat. I don't know if C-MAX does that too but maybe, if things extremely well going, battery is cool, etc. it runs phenomenally well, extended EV range, etc. I don't have scangauge so I can't pinpoint exactly when the switch would occur.

There were a lot of quirky things about the Gen2 Prius so I didn't think much about it, the car doesn't really scream "Drive me fast" anyway, although it could go a lot faster than the hypermilers gave it credit for. I suppose it is possible that the car actually can go faster but the display only shows so much. I'm not going to buy another Gen2 to find out.

Never happened to me but maybe the car was limiting current draw from the battery as a safety measure because of the extremely hot temps?

https://youtu.be/MZf_BUuW5Qg

I guess it's just that the digital speedo on the Prius maxes out at "88" then because that seemed to be all the digits it had? I had a Gen 2 and I thought they intentionally limited the car to help the powertrain longevity. I never felt a desire to drive it faster than that anyway. The Gen 2 was a neat design because it didn't have a "cockpit" like most modern cars - the space below the dash seemed very open. Back to normal driving for me now, enjoying the glass pano roof this time of year here.

Everyone knows about the Mustang but wasn't the Turino Ford's line of late 60's early 70's muscle cars? Not that the C-MAX is muscle car but I have to admit I was surprised - I really thought those three digit numbers were just for decoration. For the most part it was fine, road was dry and no sharp turns. Knowing issues with transmission bearing, etc. and I would like to keep car as long as possible I slowed back down, didn't really want to push it any more than that..plus there was still some other traffic on road, etc. It took a little while to ease it back down. I guess if I lived out West with miles of "flat" highway maybe different story.

Just like the Toyota I believe this car has a set of relays that are commanded to close by 12V modules when you start the car up, by default when the car is off the relays are open and the HV wiring is not energized as a safety measure. I believe HV is only used for the traction motors, AC compressor (and the heater if you happen to have an Energi). I would concur with battery fluctuations due to temperature. Also, EV+ will allow the car to run down the SoC even more than usual if you drive to the same place many times. I guess it's possible that a particular HVB could be starting to go bad but I have yet to hear of it on any of these forums, without hard data can't tell.

If you have a 2013 I would suspect 12V battery nearing end of service life.. I replaced mine when keyless entry stopped working and I had to use the safety key 4 times in a row during 4F mornings last year. Ford Service didn't want to replace the battery because it tested good but I asked them to do it anyway and after the first 24 hours everything started working fine again.. At the time I did mine they had a slight discount on battery cost, it was still pretty pricey, $200 with labor I think but it's worth it - this car has soo many computers and electronics that all need good voltage.

When I first got this car I looked up the VIN in ETIS and sort of chuckled when I saw a line item for "Turino" after driving a Prius that maxed out at 88MPH.. then last weekend I pulled out to pass someone on the turnpike and when I looked down at the speedometer the car was going at least 105MPH.. I moved back over and slowed back down, didn't really feel like pushing the car any more than that.

35F this morning, 29.7MPG - I had to use MAX DEFROST to clear the windows - still better than the old HHR.

Aren't there some SOC parameters they can look at in IDS? If you guys can get all of this data via phone app then maybe it's just a question of the shop being too busy to actually spend time with the car.

Yes, I guess it's possible they consider 3.8 to be good enough. Had a little glitching with pause/playback of Bluetooth audio but that could have just been the audio app on my phone. I also forgot to reset the hour on my clock apparently, made for a fun drive to work until I was able to ask Siri what time it was at a stop light.

If there are any Ford Reps left on this site it would be great if they could provide a download link to an official known good source for 3.10. I went to the owner.ford.com site and the Sync Update page says I am up to date as usual even though I only have 3.8. Most vendors would probably say "if you aren't experiencing issues an upgrade could brick your device" so I get why they probably don't just offer a straight download link. I did a google search for the filename shown in the wiki article shared by homestead and after trolling around various other Ford forums found one place where someone has shared the 3.10 update file with North American language packs to a cloud sharing service: https://mega.nz/#!OIg2gTwC!TQPEqHx_0U7I_Kto_LPNvIiIOrMbc-x7IOKnfHx4huw So now knowing about the 3.10 update I went ahead and installed it. Unzip the files (594MB) to a FAT32 formatted USB stick - at the root it has the "SyncMyRide" folder and the USB autorun file. Start the car in READY mode (there's a nice warning about not killing anyone with carbon monoxide poisoning or starting a fire by parking over tall grass, etc.) Pull out all other USB devices and insert the USB stick with the update on it I think it will autorun the install, it restarts the APIM and runs a disk check several times It turned the radio on (but you can turn volume up/down) during the install and of course several cool SYNC and Microsoft logos appear The second to final message incorrectly states that you've successfully installed 3.8 - when I checked System Information it was indeed 3.10 All bluetooth devices, navigation favorites and several other prefs are reset to defaults (you have to re-pair your phone) The UI has a more rounded rectangle look to it I think maybe using the voice command mic is slightly more responsive. I haven't tried using NAV yet to see if they were able to improve NAV screen redraw speed It looks like they may have intended Sync 2 to offer in car WIFI but I don't think my C-MAX has the hardware for it Siri CarPlay where you hold the paddle in for a few more seconds still DOES seem to work okay I forgot to check the time I started the upgrade but I would estimate about 15 minutes to go from 3.8 to 3.10. Of course it worked okay on my car but I should say a reminder that the file is from an unofficial source, I have no guarantee if it works on everyone else's vehicle or not and don't want to be responsible for breaking your car, infecting your PC, etc. Oh, and I got a notice in the mail today that the A9 navigation map card is for sale through official channel for $149 - it still looks like new map data okay with MFT Sync 2.

Confirmed that it's 3.8 I have running on Sync MFT 2 hardware. I upgraded in 2015 with a lot of the other people on this board, although in the HELP screen it actually shows "System SW 3.08 and a bunch of other numbers" .. I did a google search using the box at the top of this page for "Sync 3.8" and it looks like someone made a reference to most cars having either 3.8 or 3.10 as high as the version numbering goes for our hardware. So if you have a 2014 CMAX it probably also has Sync 2 hardware, I think Sync 3 came out with the 2017 model year (anyone correct me?) The software was originally available on owner.ford.com website. Try the google search for "Sync 3.8" to see more details. I think the 3.8 upgrade was definitely worth getting, it added feature such as CarPlay, muting NAV voice, etc. If you can't find a working link a dealer shop would probably do the upgrade for you, if you ask nicely maybe they'll charge only a nominal fee like $35. I had a shop do that to reprogram the BCM to disable my fleet style -always- on DRL. One company did have very expensive hardware upgrade kits to convert from Sync 2 to Sync 3, because I think they were essentially buying OEM Sync 3 hardware from Ford and then reprogramming the modules. You have to run new antennas around the body, etc.

I'm sorry I still haven't had an opportunity to check my control panel because I wasn't feeling well last few days. Think the version I have installed is 3.8 and whatever it was, that was the last release I got an official notice on so newer versions may not work for Sync 2 hardware? I'm sorry to say that the USB stick I used to upgrade has long been reformatted. I'll go out and check it at lunch.

I have SYNC 2 with My Ford Touch (Technology package 203A) built in texting seemed to work with Android, it does not work with iPhone but you can dictate to Siri through CarPlay in order to read and respond to texts..one of the few things you can do while driving. I'll need to go out and check which version of software I am using, will let you know later.

Ford is no longer manufacturing the CMAX for various reasons, the overstated MPG and parasitic drain issues were an early problem, and seemed to affect the SE more. I already knew that it didn't get 60MPG from driving one as a fleet vehicle but at the time even 40MPG was impressive for a crossover car. I drove a Prius v before buying the CMAX and was not impressed by the complete lack of power. It's a very well equipped vehicle, one of the few with a panoramic roof for under $25K. I think the latest model you can buy is 2017. My SEL generally works well, I was able to use 1/4 tank of gas to make a 2 hour trip up and 2 hour trip back going up and down steep mountains, etc. I got to use the engine brake a bit.. The Kia/Hyundai Niro/Kona are interesting cars but I haven't test driven them yet. The Hyundai Ionic seems to beat the Prius on paper but haven't test driven that either. The Sonata Hybrid is nice, we have one at work and it has selectable driving profiles such as "Sport" mode. The thing with the Hyundai is that it uses a 6 speed automatic transmission rather than a CVT like the Ford and Toyota cars, I think the CVT is probably more efficient.

So I ended up getting the TA-34 from RockAuto and it came with even more expiration than the car can track in its "minder" program so no worries there. I occasionally use the compressor to pump up the tires anyway and when I pulled the plug out last time the tip became separated from the rest of the housing so I put superglue on the threads and plug seems good as new now. I still kept a can of fix-a-flat along with some tire plugs in the spare well in the back row. Those cans say to store in trunk or spare tire compartment because the regular car interior is too hot. I watched the fix a flat video and one thing I didn't realize is that they want you to roll the car so that the puncture is on the bottom of the tire, so when the sealant settles it covers the hole.

A lot of my friends don't seem to like me setting the temp at Auto 72F because the fan is usually running at a lower speed, if I put it on MAX AC usually it gets painfully cold unless it's 95-100F.. I would definitely try some of those temperature probes. I don't think the "dual zone" climate control works that great, seems more like a sales gimmick to me. Don't forget about the large vent below/underside of the screen area, Try opening or closing it to see if it suits your needs better, with it open the front seat passengers seem to get more air dumped directly on them, with it closed more air is diverted through the smaller vents throughout the car..

I just had mine alert also. I believe the part number is TA34 and it costs $19-$29 depending on where you get it. There's a little button on the side of the inflator under where the hose is retained to pull off the old cylinder and insert a new one. The sealant has a limited shelf life so instead of taking a chance on old parts I just went to the auto parts store and bought a can of fix a flat instead. I also have plugs, etc. as well but thankfully to date have never had a flat.

I'm sure your dealer shop already applied all of the battery fixes such as TSB 15-0089 or CSP-15B04?