raadsel

It seems to me that too much is being made of the Escape PHEV having more horsepower than the FHEV. To be clear, the PHEV should have the exact same drivetrain (including electric motor and gas engine) as the FHEV, just that having a larger battery pack provides a higher amperage to the electric motor, which allows it to deliver more power (higher HP).

The issue with that is, an EMP would kill hybrids, as well as most petroleum powered vehicles. The issue is that EMP would destroy the computers in cars -- and pretty much any car made in the last 30ish years has a computer handling many of the engine functions. And this is on top of destroying much of our financial system, since so much of it is now electronic and how little involves actual cash; the various traffic control electronics (such as stop lights).

Electric cars (including PHEVs) appear to depreciate quickly because of the tax incentives on the car. Essentially, after tax credits, a C-Max Energi cost roughly the same (and in cases cheaper) than the C-Max Hybrid. The Plug in cars used prices reflect the cost to buy, including the amount of tax credit available; which makes the depreciation appear high compared to sticker price.

The A10 cards are down to under $40 today on eBay. I went to eBay this morning for another reason and it was on the home page, since I looked at prices when I first found out it was available. What likely sealed it for me was eBay offered a $5 coupon (for $25 purchase) in a banner while I was looking at the card.

I wish I had the ad that I got in the mail for the new maps. Forgive me for not remembering what they stated but, the impression that I got after glancing at the ad, it made me think that I'd be getting new (and improved!) software for the head unit. I was annoyed by the wording, since it made it seem it was more than just a map update.

I've largely quit using Waze because of some of, at least what I found to be, flawed routing. Not that they were giving wrong directions -- just that often their response to "unusual traffic" ended in too many people on surface streets -- and causing the surface streets to run slower than the main road with the congestion -- or ended up wanting me to turn left across heavy traffic, onto a major artery (3 lanes each direction) with a high speed limit. I've found Google Maps to be far better at routing through traffic, particularly since Google owns Waze, and uses the data reported by Waze users, in routing people through unusual and heavy traffic. I also find that the in-dash nav has a place, like ptjones said. My strategy is to use my cell phone for everyday driving locally. On a trip, I'll tend to map out my own route in advance -- based on the route I want to take -- using navigation software to help find the best route (which includes construction and road closure information) -- then use the in dash navigation for rural driving. Though, when going through larger cities, or areas where I expect congestion (such as if I can't avoid road construction), I'll switch over to Google Maps, to route me the most efficient way through those areas.

What is the best way to find them on eBay?

My understanding is all Hybrids, and even EVs, operate this way; with the HV battery being electronically disconnected. The major reason is safety (and I believe there may be laws requiring this) for the protection of first responders.

You need to ensure you have the correct state first; then typically it will want the city, the street, and after that the address number on the street. It also will check the address, as you proceed, so it will limit the street names to those it shows in that city, and then a number range that it shows for that street. Last, if there is a directional letter (such as N University) that goes between the number and the street, you'll want to include that as part of the street name (from what I recall).

I don't see the issue with starting the battery if the battery fills -- the engine isn't using any gasoline, it is merely being used as a "brake." Grade assist works quite well, it seems to do a good job of holding your speed without needing to use the physical brakes (causing wear and tear) -- even if for your drive you'll need to turn it on and off a couple of times. The only issue that I can think of is if the area you are driving have noise restrictions and prohibit the use of engine braking.

One other thing, I believe when you talk to Siri, even using the Sync system, it still uses the microphone in the phone to hear you. So, if you are too far away from the phone, or there is too much noise in the cabin, then Siri isn't going to be able to hear you. In my case, I use this phone mount system -- the picture shows you where it is mounted in my C-Max -- so my phone can typically hear me when I activate Siri.

Looks like you found your answer.

I've been trying out the Lucas cleaner. I think it has done some good but much of it may be that the temperatures have been lower the last couple of weeks, so we'll see how it does longer term.

Assuming they haven't changed it, when you start the car the left side informational display will pop up with an oil change reminder -- and it should pop up every time you start the car until it is reset. It should show up after about one year or 10,000 miles since the last time it was reset.

From what I know, you shouldn't have an issue with the gas in your car. First, I'm guessing, from what you stated, that you occasionally using some gas -- that the 20 mile range isn't always enough, so that the gas does end up being used (just slowly). As long as you use up a tank in a years time, you should have no issues. On top of that, I'm sure you were made aware of needing to push a button before you can fill your gas tank. This is because the gas tank is pressurized, in order to help keep the gas "fresh" -- to slow the aging process. Beyond that, though I'd have to reverify with the owner's manual, my recollection is that the Energi will eventually force you to use your gas if it isn't used within two years. At that point, it will refuse to go into full electric mode until your gasoline level gets low and you add new gas to the tank -- this is to ensure you don't have issues with the gas getting too old.

I've largely decided I won't use the fix a flat. I'll use the compressor and, if the pressure tends to hold (a slow leak) I'll quickly drive to get my flat repaired. If the pressure doesn't hold, then I'll just call for roadside assistance.

When I bought my 2013 used, about 3.5 years ago, I noticed my horn didn't work after I'd had it home for a few days. Luckily, the selling dealer was nice enough to replace the horn for no charge. Seems like the horn may be a potential problem for people, considering at least three of us have had ours fail.

Maybe I'm remembering wrong, but I thought you had to have your foot on the brake to shift out of park. They started adding that to cars to prevent the "acceleration" issues some cars were having -- most of which were caused by people accidentally putting their foot on the gas rather than the brake when putting the car in gear after starting it.

Cars with lithium batteries should be Lithium Polymer (LiPo), not Lithium Ion (LIon or Li-ion). The LiPo battery is the gel type of battery; it is used not only because it is less likely to spread, if it leaks, but also because it is more "stable" -- it is less likely to "explode"/spontaneously combust.

The "My Ford Touch" (MFT) display is a standard touchscreen panel. similar to ones in phones or tablets. There is a sensor that adjusts the brightness according to the lighting, so it is likely that sensor having issues.

I'd likely look at the 2019 Hyundai Tucson/Kia Sportage. The Tucson is being updated for 2019 and, at least from the early reports, it sounds as if it should be quite good.

In my car, I have my iPhone where I can see it, on a mount. Typically, I'll hold the "voice button" until what looks like an outline of the front of a car comes up on my iPhone screen, and then let go. It seems like I need to hold it several seconds, at least 5 or so.

I guess I've been lucky. I've had the car for over three years now and this is the first time I've needed to do it.

I pulled F79, started the car until I saw the "Entertainment not available" message (or something like that) at the bottom of the Red quadrant, where normally it would just say Entertainment. I then turned the car off, went over to the passenger side and re-inserted the fuse. The next time I started the car, after the MFT/Audio system finished powering up the sound was working again. I'm glad to have it fixed but those fuses are in a really inconvenient spot to get to.

I understand that FSA 12M02 is close to expiring -- this is part of the reason I'm thinking I should take it in to my Ford dealer. I'm the second owner and not exactly sure when this program ends (when it was purchased + five years) but owner.ford.com shows that it is still active on my vehicle.