djc

Turns out size matters. It was pain to switch batteries, but would be less so if one knew in advance what had to be done. The 96R is about 3/8 inch longer than the 67R. The oem 67r is held down by a bolt that extends through the bottom of the battery well -- presumably so it can maximally rust from rain and road salt. The nut and bolt on my 2013 were welded together by corrosion and could not be removed. Solution: 3 lb mallet, drive bolt and nut up into case. This only slightly enlarges the hole in the bottom of the battery well. With that hold-down and the original battery removed, the 96r won't quite fit with the other battery hold-down in place. It is a block of plastic at the back of the case, held by 2 rivets. Solution - the 3 lb mallet you will find you have lying nearby, having earlier used it to remove the other hold-down. I used the mallet with a flat "Wonder bar" style pry bar, and was able to remove the hold-down intact; it could be reinstalled if need be, using 2 screws in place of the rivets. Now the 96r fits in the well. And car is back to normal starting behavior. I tried resetting the battery age using this ritual: key ON, flash brights five times, then brake 3 times. After I did this, a yellow icon to left of speedometer flashed 3 times. But when I went into Forscan, battery age was not reset. I also wasn't able to reset it using Forscan Lite for Android. Has anyone else replaced the OEM 67r with a 96r (or other non-OEM battery? If so, how has it worked out?

The Motorcraft 67r battery in my 2013 is totally dead. It's a bit less than 3 years old. None of 3 local dealers have them in stock, and they want $180 plus $16 core plus tax to order one for me to somehow pick up later in the week. So I ordered a Walmart 96r to be delivered to my house today. It is $109.76. I have measured the 96r before and it is almost identical in width and height, and about 3/8 inch longer than the 67r. As I remember, a main difference is that the lips on the battery that are used to tie the battery down run along the sides in the 96r, whereas they are at the ends of the 67r. The 96r has about 50% more reserve capacity than the 67r - the measure that matters, since in the C-max this battery is not asked to deliver high cranking amps. The extra capacity is a plus, but more so is Walmart free delivery to my porch, along with a much better price - and a lower ($10) core charge. While I was at it, I ordered a 5qt jug of Mobil 1 Hybrid oil, which currently comes with a $5 "Walmart Cash" credit if ordered online.

On January 8 2024, CR posted an article "Best Cars Under $15000". The 2015-2016 C-max is recommended under the "Small Cars" heading, along with used Honda Fit, Mazda3, Toyota Corolla and Toyota Prius. They say: "The C-Max is an appealing all-around package, combining the fuel efficiency of its standard hybrid powertrain with the practicality of a five-door hatchback design. Based on the Ford Focus, it packs an impressive amount of room and utility into a small footprint. Its tall stance and low entry height make for easy access, and the cabin is airy and spacious. At 37 mpg overall, the C-Max isn’t as fuel efficient as the Toyota Prius of the era, nor is it as roomy. But it’s much quieter inside, making the C-Max feel solid and substantial. And it’s more fun to drive, with precise steering, responsive handling, and a luxurious ride."

My 2 year old 12v battery also reads 11.7 volts when key is off. That is plenty to pull-in the relay that lets the HVB begin recharging the 12v and also start the car. When you open the door instrument panel back light should come on. When key is to "on" (but not start) you should hear relay click behind you and 12v battery voltage should rise (mine goes to 12.5). Turning key to "start" should bring the 12volt circuit up to 14.3 or so volts. So how much of that happens for you? You might try disconnecting the 12v battery for a few minutes then reconnecting - sort of rebooting. Here is a write-up, apparently for Ford service centers, on the code you mention in 2016-17 Fusions. It appears to be connected with BECM, and appears to be a software problem (the remedy they mention is reprogramming the BECM). So maybe your new battery (or the installation process) triggered the code (which apparently also prevents starting the vehicle): https://ford.oemdtc.com/3140/no-crank-p1a10-diagnostic-trouble-code-dtc-2016-2017-ford-fusion Please let us know the resolution of your problem - there but for the grace of Ford go we.

Having done this again and actually looked at the coolant reservoir cap once removed, I see the inner piece (presumably a pressure relief valve) is free to turn in the cap. It is not threaded, it has an 0-ring to seal the reservoir. So pressing down on the cap does not engage anything. I used a drop of oil off the dipstick to lube the cap threads - handier than tracking down silicone grease - and that seemed to help. I have a slow coolant leak - drips from the bottom of the thermostat housing. Thermostat housing is low, near the oil filter. It connects to 4 coolant hoses of various diameters. I have added UV flourescent dye to the coolant (at the reservoir) and hope to have a better idea of the leak location soon.

The 2023 Mobil 1 rebate program has been announced: https://acbincentives.com/mobil1/terms.asp Includes "Advanced Fuel Economy" but not "Hybrid" version. Rebate for most versions is $6 per 5 quarts, or $10 for a few "extended performance" versions. Limit 2 rebates per household. Walmart is not on the long list of participating retailers, although "Other retailer" is. In past years rebates have been issued for purchases at Walmart even though WM was not on the list.

I just added coolant to my 2013 - the cap was extremely hard to turn. I discovered I needed to start removing it, then push down to engage an inner piece that is threaded into the reservoir and won't turn unless the visible cap is pressed down. Once it is off, adding some silicone grease sounds like a very good idea.

This specialized hybrid oil has just come to market. It will be interesting to see how long Walmart carries it, as it vies for shelf-space with less-specialized oils. Also worth watching is whether Mobil offers a rebate to call attention to it. Some years they have had substantial rebates on their oils. If anyone comes across one, please post here.

The publicity release says the "Hybrid" version is a Walmart exclusive. It is currently $28 a 5-qt jug. The additive package is supposed to include an additive that reduces water in the oil, a problem for hybrids because they run the engine intermittently and as a result often have lower coolant and oil temps. That causes water (and fuel) to build in the oil. PR sheet says this hybrid version of Mobil 1 "...has a special additive designed to help keep water and additional contaminants away from critical engine parts. " https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20230404006047/en/Mobil-1™-Introduces-Latest-in-Product-Innovation-With-Hybrid-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil https://www.mobil.com/en-cn/passenger-vehicle-lube/pds/ap-xx-mobil-1-hybrid-0w-20 They still recommend changing the oil at 1 year (or 15k miles).

Based on joint project from Insurance Institute for Highway Safety and Consumer Reports. Specifically C-max 2014-2015 years is good value: summary: https://www.motor1.com/news/591498/best-used-cars-teen-drivers/ at the source (May 26,2022): https://www.consumerreports.org/teen-driving/best-cars-for-teens-a2115540753/ (scroll down to "Best" section)

Links to engine and cabin air cleaner replacement instructions. how to enter engineering test mode Use "Top Tier" gasoline to avoid injector problems? Tire inflation for max mpg

For trying to assess the probability of a failure, you need data from both those who experienced the failure and those who didn't. It seems very likely that in forums failures get reported; non-failures not so much. So failures are over-represented. Also it appears Ford sold more 2013 model year C-max than any other year, so even if the failure rate were the same every year, you would see more 2013 transmission failures being reported. Of course, Ford (and maybe some extended warranty underwriters) have the best data. Ford knows how many they sold, where they were sold (temps may matter), and how many had a warranty claim and at what mileage. But they won't share that. So, as far as I can tell, Consumer Reports has the best data on reliability that we can get. And it could be much better; they don't give us the actual numbers or the cost data they collect. However based on what their survey of owners shows, 2013 model year has had a transmission failure rate that is neither especially good nor bad, whereas the 2014 models were bad, and the 2015 and later model years were great.

Transmissions: Consumer Reports gathers repair data from owners. One of the trouble areas they gather data on is "major transmission". Results reported by Ford C-max owners, by model year: 2013 Average 2014 Much worse than average 2015 -17 Much better than average So the owner data here does not suggest that a 2013 will have major transmission failure. Prius V: When I was looking for a hybrid in 2015 I drove both the Cmax and a Prius V. The Cmax was faster and handled better. It felt roomier because of the headroom (I also drove a Fusion hybrid, which was harder to get into and felt claustrophobic after the C-max). So the C-max was my choice.

I don't understand how a low spring rate would limit raising the car using a spring coilover and shock spacer. A 25mm coilover will raise the rear 25mm.

Running and dying sounds like fuel pressure problem.

Can you tell whether noise comes from front or rear? Does the noise vary with speed? Disc brakes often make a scraping noise, esp if the disc has had time to rust. Inspect rotor. Maybe a test for this possible cause would be to a) coast in neutral, listen carefully to noise. 2) go down a long hill in neutral using the brakes. This should remove some oxide built-up on the disc. 3) listen again coasting to see if any change to noise. If yes, suspect brakes. Maybe then jack car up and spin wheel.

I replaced my rear sway bar links at around 37,000 miles. It rattled going over small bumps at speeds under 30mph. The front links had been replaced by dealer at 35,000 miles (so under warranty). The links have little ball joints and live a hard life. They are made in China. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009B5T6VO/ Moog makes one that claims to be superior to OEM. In the spirit of science, I bought and installed one of each. Both OK 20k miles later. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K6KXEKM/ From online: What are the symptoms of a bad sway bar link? Some of the most common symptoms of a bad sway bar bushing or sway bar links going bad are: Clunking noise. Rattling noise. Knocking uneven noise road. Lack of stability when driving. Noise going over speed bumps.

Well it is harder than replacing the battery on any other car I have worked on (except that the battery itself weighs less). There's a full video on replacing the Energi bat, so you can judge for yourself.

Thanks. I see "tema" is on ebay as well, listing the same C-max Energi kit. I am enticed by the ebay listing description, which assures me that installing this kit will enable my C- max to "conquer the worst off-road thanks to the increased clearance" and will permit me to "avoid scrapping the ground on steep driveways and speed bumps", although I admit I have been trying more to avoid scrapping the car, rather than the ground.

Amazon is currently listing a lift kit for the C-max Energi. Brand is "Tema", price $192. The kit shares parts with the Escape lift kit, except (I believe) the spring extender is taller in the C-max kit. Kit includes 2 rear spring spacers, 2 rear shock spacers, and 2 front strut spacers plus screws and washers. I watched a Hyundai owner on youtube comparing a Tema kit from Amazon with an ebay kit (I assume the one from Russian Federation), showing the Tema kit was better made. He had ordered both to compare, and returned the less expensive ebay kit. One would want to know why the Tema listing mentions Energi but not regular C-max hybrid. They are supposed to have identical suspension parts, even though Energi is almost 300 lb heavier. https://www.amazon.com/Tema4x4-Complete-C-Max-Energi-2013-2017/dp/B08CC6YZXF

I finally changed the engine air filter in my 2013 Cmax. Pain getting hoses back on until I loosened lower end of hose to manifold. Car has 55k miles. This is what I found. After reassembling the air filter assembly, I cut a 2"x 5.5" rectangle of 1/4" mesh "steel hardware cloth" and pushed it into the grille end of the engine air intake hose - fits well and is snug.

I have Michelin X-ice snow tires that are slightly larger than C-max stock tires. After spring snow melt pot holes and some frost-heave bumps emerge in our roads. I was out on unfamiliar road two weeks ago and hit a new abrupt bump. Shortly after I heard a new whine coming from rear of car. Stopped and checked and the left rear tire had torn and peeled a thin wheel-well liner and bunched it up in the front of the wheel-well rubbing against the left rear tire. I couldn't move it by hand but managed to sort-of get it loosely back in place using the long handle of the lug wrench. Not a permanent solution. I like the idea of lifts (or taller springs?). I assume trade-off would be increased drag (impact highway speed mpg) and maybe handling. Advantage would be ability to get over snow-plow driveway dams and can use larger diam tires. Escape was built on same platform, yes? Maybe some options there?

I didn't see a post on this. I did see a youtube video on the Energi, but it is slightly different, and he didn't run into a problem whereas I did. My 12v battery was not holding charge since last sub-zero cold spell and only short trips to charge it. Dead thrice in driveway. The state of the 12v battery charge can be checked under the hood. Mine was regularly 11.6 volts after long charging. Should be 12.6. I believe it is the original battery. New battery $135 at dealer. core deposit $16 (varies by state, I believe). Dealer had quoted $80 labor to install. Tools: socket wrench. 10mm and 8mm sockets. extension. T25 torx screwdriver (I used a T25 bit in a portable drill). I also needed a vise-grips; not expected. Also Liquid Wrench. Pliers maybe useful. Look under the car and check the 1 inch or so of screw sticking out of the bottom of the battery box (the end of the battery hold down). It if is corroded, spray with penetrating oil. Doing this first will give the penetrating oil some time to, well, penetrate. More on this later. Lift soft cover just inside hatch and prop up with something. Remove 3 T25 black screws along top edge of the big plastic liner that covers the battery and has the little white funnel in it. Remove 10mm nut just to the left of the positive terminal of the battery, the last thing holding the liner in. Pull back the top edge of the liner and at same time lift the rear edge. It should pop up and out. The left 2/3 of the space now visible has a fan and duct for the HVB. Battery: loosen (don't remove) the 10mm on the negative pole, lift terminal off and swing left. On mine the terminal could be caught under the edge of the hatch carpet to hold in place. Can wrap a cloth or plastic or sock or a plastic bag over the end if it doesn't want to stay out of the way. Loosen the 10mm bolt on the positive terminal. Since the negative is disconnected, won't arc, but doesn't hurt to be careful to avoid contacting wrench handle to metal. Lift positive terminal assembly left and out of the way. Last: remove the battery hold down. This proved very difficult. A long screw with an 8mm head sticks up from the plastic hold down. Mine refused to turn, and then turned without unfastening. Turns out it screws into a piece under the battery holder and so under the car. Have to go under the bumper to get to it, but it is not far in so easy reach. I ended up using vise grips and liquid wrench, one hand holding the visegrips under the car, the other turning the wrench on the 8mm hold down screw inside the battery box. Lift out the battery holddown (black T-shaped plastic with the long screw); pliers might help to pull up the plastic holddown. Tip the pos end of the battery up and pull back part way. Unfasten the rubber gas tube from the negative end of the battery (it is friction fit into a hole just below the top of the battery along the edge farthest away from you). Then lift battery out at an angle. On the Energi, he had to remove a metal crosspiece over the back of the battery; not necessary on C-max. Replace - insert new battery part way and fasten out-gassing tube in new battery. Slide battery rest of the way in. Easiest to fasten neg terminal with battery not all the way back (so before reattaching hold down). Then with neg terminal attached push battery all the way back - it catches under a lip of a back hold down. Then attach front holddown, then pos terminal assembly. Pop cover back in and replace 3 torx screws and 1 10mm nut. Useful accessory: a voltmeter to put in the front console aux power socket. I bought this $10 one, with a usb fast charge port: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08J7RP74S/ (Pull up 1/4" or so to turn off.)

Instructions courtesy Ikea....

Plus these cars have a relatively long air intake hose, which should gather some dirt. Then in the filter box I believe incoming air has to go up and over a partition to get at the large filter surface. If one part of the filter gets restrictive, air will flow through filter area further from the inlet. Could last a very long time, depending on driving conditions. But then a single run following someone up a dusty road could get any filter dirty. I wonder if one could run an endoscope up the intake hose and take a look at the filter?