cwstnsko

Your profiles shows you have a 2016 C-Max. If this is true, you have Sync 3 and I believe the navigation is different and does not use an SD card

I had some unusual noises in the last couple weeks until yesterday, when I noticed that one of the upper trim panels on the inside of the rear hatch had an unusually large gap at the top. I re-seated the panel with the heel of my palm, and the noise seemed to disappear. We'll see if the noise stays gone and if the trim panel stays put, or works its way back loose.

Since Sync 3 does it's updates over WiFi, it might not be a problem. The head unit would not likely even know it was in a 2013, and still look for updates when connected to WiFi.

All this talk of cooking in the C-Max and nobody mentioned a crock pot on low plugged into the 110V power point?

Keep in mind that 20% on an Energi Battery would be a much higher % in a hybrid battery in terms of energy available. I haven't driven a Prius, but I have a hard time imagining it being much smoother transition than my 2015 C-Max Energi. In my car, if I don't mention it, my passengers can't tell when the engine starts, or if it is running or not, unless I am accelerating up an on-ramp or something similar that brings the rpms up considerably. From reading this thread, it appears that Energi drivers have a slightly different perception of the primary benefit of EV+ than Hybrid drivers do. I think the Energi drivers focus on not starting the ICE is because they commonly drive for days or weeks without starting the ICE. In an Energi, creeping into the driveway in EV+ with half of the Hybrid portion of the battery consumed, but without starting the ICE, creates a curious euphoria that I have never experienced in a hybrid, ICE car, or BEV. It's like you just won a hard level on a video game :-)

Are you referring to this info https://owner.ford.com/how-tos/vehicle-features/entertainment-system/usb-smart-charging.html That matches what you describe, but when I tell it that I have a 2015 C-Max, it says the video does not apply to my car. A little bit of digging leads me to believe the more powerful USB ports started in the C-Max for the 2016 model year – Improved Charging abilities A new more powerful USB port, that provides up to 2 amps of power; more than enough to adequately charge a tablet or multiple smart phones. Previous chargers provided 500 milliamps of power. These are just a few of the new features and upgrades that will be included in the new Sync 3 when it is introduced in some of Ford’s 2016 models this year.

The simplified guide I got to temporarily importing one of my car to Canada said they had to always be on and that it would fail the safety inspection if there was a way to turn them off, but more detailed investigations indicates that I was mislead and that is not the case. I stand corrected :) From the Canadian regulation Switching (54) Subject to subsections (55) and (56), daytime running lamps shall be on continuously when the engine is operating and the master lighting switch is not in the headlamps on position. (55) Daytime running lamps may switch off (a) while the automatic transmission control is in the park or neutral position; (b) while the parking brake is applied; or © after the engine is started but before the vehicle is set in motion for the first time. This leads me to believe the auto manufacturers are just keeping their systems simpler by leaving them on all the time. Ford has been doing this for quite a while. My 2005 Class-C Motorhome was built in Canada for the US market, but as such has DRLs that similarly cannot be turned off. It's really annoying when you are trying to pull in to a campground after dark and set up camp in a stealthy manner.

EV+ seems to pick up any location where you frequently end a trip (turn the car off). I believe this is to avoid starting the engine just when you are about to turn the car off. I recently started dropping my dog off every day on the way to work. In less than a week, it had flagged it as an EV+ location.

USB does always provide 5V, but "standard" USB charging rate is only 500 ma (0.5 amps). I suspect the Ford system provides the standard 500 ma. I've had a few android phones that would not even maintain their battery level at 500 ma, they would just continue to slowly discharge. Newer phones come with chargers that are in the 1.1 amp - 2 amp+ range. Most newer 12V power port USB adapters are of the 2 amp variety. The USB mounting error is normally on android phones that have the screen locked. The screen lock also prevents the phone from establishing USB communications. If you unlock the screen on the android, then plug it in, you should not see the error. After it plugged in, you can relock the screen. If you do not have autoplay in the car turned off, it will likely search your entire phone for music and play anything it can find, including ring tones etc. :-) I have my android set to connect as a camera, then put a music folder inside the camera folder so it only finds and plays my music, rather than every audio file in the entire file system of the phone.

It sounds like Ford's implementation of DRLs is consistent with Canadian laws for DRLs. Cars in the US can have DRLs that have more elaborate logic, but in Canada they have to be on anytime the car is on. I 'd bet that Ford has just opted to implement one set of DRL logic for both markets.

Rather than braking dramatically to get the friction brakes to engage, shift into neutral when approaching lights etc. This will disable regenerative braking and allow you to use the friction brakes in a manner similar to a normal ICE vehicle. I usually do this for a few stops from speed when the surface rust due to lack of use accumulates and starts to make the brakes sound rough.

At the top of a hill, a heavier car has more potential energy than a light car. All other things being roughly equal, the heavier car will gain speed faster than the lighter car. 650 lbs of additional weight should be more than enough to overcome the difference in drag coefficient.

How low can the stop point on the door be programmed? Can you lower the door to the point that it doesn't hit the rack, then re-program that as the stop point, so if it does open, it's just a bit? It might be annoying to have the door open just a little when you are taking the rack on and off regularly, but it might work well to reset it if the rack was staying on for a while, like if you are taking the bikes on vacation with you.

Without more information about why the left front turn signal needs to be replaced, that question is a bit tough to answer. Even with more information, ultimately the dealer is probably in a much better position to say what may or may not be covered under warranty.

My C-Max does not pull under regenerative braking. One test would be to put the car in Neutral during braking to see if it pulls more, or less. I don't believe there is any regen when in Neutral. I use this sometimes to clear the rust from the rotors.

If you have an IKEA in your area, they have these batteries in an 8 pack for $1.99 http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80291156/

It is an Amazon Canada thing. If you go back up to the URL after it errors and manually change the .ca to .com, it loads just fine

I believe Ford is using DOT 4 fluid now, which I don't think has the same moisture absorbing tendencies as DOT 3. Even on cars with DOT 3 fluid there is a test you can do with a volt meter to quantify if the fluid has absorbed enough moisture to warrant changing.

It is on my 2014 Focus Electric and I believe it has been since the beginning of the model

I think it was at V3.7 that the guidance voice mute was duplicated as a button right on the map, not just buried in the menus. I don't remember if the button has to be turned on in a menu to appear on the screen. I think it is there by default. It's nice to know that the voice control option works as well, but I have never gotten in the habit of trying to voice control things that are a simple one button/knob action.

I would at least stick with a Low Rolling Resistance (LRR) tire. This opens up the selection of tires quite a bit, but should still keep fuel economy reasonable. Any tire should still be inflated to at least the pressure listed on the door. There may be some tires that meet the load rating for the C-Max that are not rated for 51 psi on the sidewall, but I'm not sure that will ensure that they ride smoother than the stock tires, if both are inflated to the recommended pressure. On a C-Max, you might get some relief from the harshness by going to 16" wheels and a tire with a higher sidewall, but that might also sacrifice a bit of handling.

I don't believe he is looking at the regular N-blue, he is looking to use the EV specific tire that is the Stock tire on the Kia Soul EV. It only comes in one size http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Nexen&tireModel=N+blue+EV

I think this page is the one that is considered by most tire shops and tire manufacturers to be the definition of repairability and proper repair: RMA Tire Repair Based on what I read that site, and the pictures posted, the OP's tire is scrap and cannot be repaired. The initial damage is outside the repairable area, and even if it was in the repairable area, the fact that the existing repair is not up to standards would call for the tire to be replaced, rather than re-repaired.

You can stop MFT from playing the music on your iPhone at startup by turning Autoplay off in the settings