Hybrid dude

Too bad the dead battery issue continues but I'm learning quite a bit reading some highly technical replies. Knock on lead, I've been trouble free since the second occurrence last fall, having only the 12V battery replaced after the first time. I never thought my post would rank number one on the replies-to list. To those who have the Stanley Simple Start, the instruction manual advises to store it between 41-68F (5-20C). So, unless one lives in a temperate climate, is it risky to keep it in the C-Max during temperatures outside of that range, which kind of defeats the purpose of having an emergency boost device? Are you supposed to carry it with you at all times and periodically check the charge level? Can anyone recommend an alternative device? I realize that if my battery is ever dead again, I'm supposed to have it towed but I want to have an alternative if it occurs at an inopportune time or place. Thanks

kc1174, sorry about your alignment issues. I never had metal to metal rubbing, so after the body shop adjusted the hood and said no adjustment was possible on the hatch, I just let it go. I find it interesting that even though you purchased it in February, it was built in last August, as was mine, purchased Oct. 1st. I assume you bought it from dealer inventory? I don't know the average length of time a C-Max would sit on a dealer's lot, though.

Would you mind posting or private messaging the dealer contact info, as I'd like to know exactly what they are going to do? I assume you don't know whether the option will be just simply activating the low beams to be on all the time or adding additional lighting? Thanks

Mr. Green Jeans, we'd love to know more about this $80 solution. Is it a 'flash' of the body control module or some other method? I've heavily questioned service managers at two dealers, the only result being 'not possible'. Can you give us specifics? Thanks

In case you haven't searched/found/read them, there are several posts I've made in this category regarding DRLs, LEDs, HIDs, etc. I'll add here what I posted elsewhere: I've covered the square light sensor, which is located on top of the dashboard in the center close to base of the windshield with a mitten (mitten is now inside a rubber examination glove to prevent sliding on the dash ... add jokes as you wish). This enables parking and low beams on all the time. The only downside to me is the instrument lighting is dim during the day despite having it manually set to the brightest setting. I feel the benefits of all lights on all the time outweighs the drawbacks of dimmed instrument lights, a bit more electric usage and a tiny bit fewer mpg. Laurel--I don't think I asked you this in the other post but I assume your instrument lighting with DRLs works as it should ... bright in the day, dimmed at night, regardless of manual setting?

Nice!

Since I rarely fold the seats down but wouldn't want to fuss with tape removal but your idea led me to ... a piece of hook and loop fastener (I won't mention the brand but you know what I mean) which would be the width of the opening. I think it would work great and be easy to remove/install. However, I don't want to in any way compromise the effectiveness of the seatbelt, so maybe not.

Glad to know about (and sorry you've experienced) the all too common 'stuff falls out when I open the hatch' problem. I posted a more detailed description in another topic but can't find it. Others have had the same problem. All Ford had/has to do was make the flip-up cover on the cargo floor longer to be flush with the inside of the hatch when the hatch is closed. I guess a net which stretched across the lower part of the opening would solve the problem too, similar to products available which replace pick up truck tailgates. The two levels of the cargo floor height make it quite a challenge, though.

I've made no further progress. If Ford ever makes available an accessory fog light kit, that's the one I'll use. The C-Max currently (NPI) has too many electrical problems of unknown cause, so I can just hear the dealer stating, 'well, you added aftermarket fog lights, so if we even choose to try and solve your electrical problem, the warranty will not cover the cost ...'

Thanks for the info.

Thanks for the update and a few questions: 1. Were you able to reinstall the black plastic covering so that all of the plastic tabs went back into their respective slots? Is there any trick required? 2. Not to be facetious but you're certain the knurled knob on the back of the fog lights is for height adjustment, not for securing the light to the bumper cover? I only ask so that if others find their fogs to low or high and don't want to DIY, they can mention it to a technician when the tech says 'not possible'.

Yes, so cool and so unavailable at the moment in North America. The video is from a European (not sure which country) C-Max also equipped with xenon / HID headlights. I think it is a requirement that if one has HIDs, one must have wash systems and beam leveling systems too. I think the extending/pressurized nozzle first appeared on Audi models many years ago, though it may have been another manufacturer.

Hi- You'll find those topics under Glass, Lenses, Lighting, Mirrors, Wipers. Here's one: http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/index.php?/topic/360-xenon-bi-xenon-hid-headlights/

There's a lengthy and informative discussion regarding DRLs here: http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/index.php?/topic/568-drl-daytime-running-lights-lamps/ I personally wanted both front and rear lights on all the time and have simply kept the light switch in autolamp position (fully clockwise) and covered the sensor located on top of the dashboard in the middle, close to the base of the windshield. The only downside is that my gauges are a bit more difficult to see in the daytime, since the system thinks it is dark outside. I don't think the body control module can be flashed to activate DRLs on non-Canadian vehicles.

Glad I'm not the only one with this ridiculous issue. It's just another example of no one actually sitting in the C-Max and testing it in the real world.

A vintage LG flip phone.

Thanks for the info. I forgot to specify that I want to make an 'incoming' call private after viewing the caller ID. In other words, be able to answer it on my cell phone before it gets routed through the vehicle speaker system.

Apologies if the instructions are in the owner's manual but I couldn't find it. On an SE model, is there a way to disable a phone call going through the sound system, in other words, make it private, either before or during a call? Thanks

I'll second most of the issues which have been listed above with my emphasis on: 1. Power seat(s) without leather 2. HID / LED exterior lighting 3. Flat cargo floor 4. Key fob on which one can feel lock vs. unlock w/o looking (Volvo attains it with concave & convex buttons) My main issue, which I think would have solved a lot of these dislikes, is that it seems no one from Ford design or engineering departments actually sat in the C-Max ... at least no one with any influence. If you look at the lists, most of the dislikes/wants could have been resolved by just sitting in the driver seat, back seat and opening the hatch with an unbalanced load of stuff and having it fall onto your feet. We all seem to really like the way the car drives and handles. Most of us would like improved MPG without having to work so hard. We early C-Max adopters own interesting vehicles, ones that have been on sale in Europe since 2010 in gasoline or diesel versions, yet in North America, it was re-engineered to be exclusively a hybrid or plug-in-hybrid. The exterior shape was not designed for a super low Cd (drag coefficient) but Ford wanted to have more hybrid choices for buyers without having to create another vehicle. The two main areas of improvement seem to be focused on MPG and gauge/display issues. The rest could be applied to the European versions, complaints for which Ford should have been receiving for several years.

The shoulder belt portion of the left and right rear seat belts will not stay in the guides. The belts get a lot of use by kids just fastening them normally but nine times out of ten, the belt makes its way out of the plastic guide on top of the rear seat back. I realize they were designed to come out when folding the backrest but this is ridiculous. I'll send Ford more never to be answered design feedback and will most likely make some sort of removable plug which fills the gap on the guide. Suggestions are always welcome, thanks.

I'm not intentionally vying for the title of worst C-Max average MPG but here's my last fill-up: 311 miles (~150 Hwy) 88.2 EV miles 29.7 MPG (28.02 manually calculated) 10.47 gallons (11.1 gallons on pump meter) It is seasonably cold here in New England and I even use the heat sparingly. I still maintain a smile, however, when I'm able to make 1-2 mile trips solely on electric.

Has anyone experienced a rather loud noise when refueling? A sort of buzzing/whirring/whining sound. It's happened during my last two fill-ups. I squeeze and hold the pump handle to the maximum flow rate. I've used the same gas station for years without incident. The weather has been below freezing and the noise stops when I reduce the flow rate. The pump sometimes stops as well until I lessen the flow rate. It's a disconcerting noise, of which I've never heard before. Ideas?

As the originator of this post, thanks to everyone who has and will continue to contribute information. As suggested, I reported my second dead battery occurrence to Ford, received a reply email that my case was moved to Tier 1 and "A Customer Care Specialist will contact you by close of business tomorrow." ... That was on January 9. I had yet to receive the call so I called this morning and the person said the case was opened and then closed immediately. I am now awaiting another call after so and so discusses with his supervisor. What's the deal? Every email I've received comes from someone named Mea. I don't think there is an actual person with that name, as what are the chances of that person replying to me each time ... I don't know. I love how they also "congratulate you for the purchase of your 2013 Ford C-Max. At Ford, we truly value your business with us." Is this just on par with large corporate customer service protocol? I guess they value the sale but what it takes to get after-sales help and tech support, I may never know. If this is the help within the warranty period, I'm not going to find out what it would be like after the warranty ends. I'd love a buyback and yes, just like mbedit, I probably would get another one. I've complained a lot here and there and my MPGs have taken a nose dive due to cold weather and cold weather short trips but I really enjoy it for several reasons: 1. It really drives and handles well and has surprisingly good power, just like European vehicles of which I previously owned, probably because it is designed in Europe. 2. The ability to go totally electric on a 0.5 mile trip to the market and various other EV only situations. However, I wouldn't buy an Energi model because that larger battery leaves much less room to carry stuff. I rarely have the option to haul things in the back seats as they are usually occupied with kids. Also, running an outlet to our condo parking lot would be quite a feat, a battle for which I'm not yet ready to fight. 3. Kids have a lot of room in the back seat. Anyway, I'll step off the soapbox for now.

As I've posted previously, I'm a proponent of having all the lights on all the time for perspicuity reasons. For reduced power consumption and frequency of headlight bulb change reasons, among others, I'd ultimately prefer white front LED DRLs instead of my low beams but want to have lighting in the back as well. So, the last few posts led me to find perhaps a solution ... red LEDs for the rear, which appear (NPI) to be available online. However, there probably are Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (FMVSS) which state how many rear lights can be illuminated at any one time, etc. Here's a link to an interesting post on a BMW site, specifically post #13: http://f10.m5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=753445 Some BMWs have LED taillights, which can apparently be programmed to be active in conjuction with the front 'angel eye' or 'corona' DRLs prevalent those vehicles. Having all these LED work in conjunction with our headlight switch / sensor might be quite a challenge, though. Also, aftermarket Philips LED DRLs, among others, are available as an aftermarket accessory. Those lights dim to 50% when parking lights are illuminated, similar to the OEM ones on Mercedes-Benz vehicles.

Dead 12V twice, at about 2,000 miles and 3,200 miles Both after parked overnight SE, zero options