SnowStorm

R&R? Please follow link in post #2 above.

Your symptoms do sound like mine were but, of course, I can't say if its the same problem. Here's more detail on my scenario: My first set of tires became very noisy and were changed at about 72k miles. IIRC, it was after that change that we could again hear a faint whine during regen. At the time I assumed it was normal (do other folks have this whine during regen?) but perhaps I already had a problem.Sometime after, maybe around 110k miles, one could also hear a whirring sound during EV that came and went with load - sound present when pressing accelerator.Changed ATF at 155k miles and was surprised to see it was rather black and had a few specks of metal(?) in it.Sounds continued and transmission failed at 176k miles with serious leak while driving (it didn't drip while just sitting).At all times the sound was not very loud - I expect some folks wouldn't even notice. If your fluid looks good (clear with that red tint), then you may have quite a bit of time (??). I would suggest checking the color at least every 10k miles. I don't know about the drain plug either but there is an internal filter - but it won't stop a change in color. Once a leak starts its all over.

Mine is still in process of being installed.

See my experience here and later posts. If you can't get the VIN from the donor car, I wouldn't risk it.

Looks like my rear rotors must be replaced to pass inspection - both my dealer and tire shop are saying this. The dealer explained that the law changed recently (Virginia) to say that you must have "full contact". Apparently, that mottled look isn't "full contact". Dealer wants $385 and tire shop $280 (IIRC) to replace rear rotors and pads. Are those prices about what one would expect?Any real caution on DIY? Parts look to be <$100. Do I need that special tool to compress the calipers?How about sanding down the rotors with a random orbital sander and then doing some hard stops in neutral? Maybe that will get them back close enough to "full contact" to pass????Any stainless rotors out there?Need inspection this month.

Well, that could be it. I would describe the sounds more like "whirring" or a "whine" or, perhaps, "rubbing", certainly not thumping or grinding. There was a soft whine during regen, also during EV it might come and go as you increased and decreased torque, or a more constant sound that seemed to persist from EV through start of ICE. Nothing noticeable at higher speeds and never very loud. Now if I could just get Ford to pay for it! I don't exactly understand the warranty verbiage at the end of the TSB.

Where's Alice? I think we're in Wonderland - keeps getting curiouser and curiouser! In taking out the old transmission they found some pieces of metal. Now they have noticed a perfectly shaped hole (not on the new one!) that was worn through the wall of the transmission! Looked like it was done by a gear. No wonder it started leaking oil! I guess it wasn't the seal! They have the "clutch" but some more days are needed before its all back together. Also: Sounds like new rear rotors are needed to pass inspection - use them or loose them! Pads are "OK" but are normally changed too.

Mine is being replaced now at 176k miles - built April 2013. More details in Transmission Leak topic starting with post #10.

Nice comparison! A few thoughts: Still assembled in US!ICE: Displacement up 24%, bore up 1.5%, stroke up 20%, compression up 5.7% I still wonder if the increases in stroke, displacement and compression, without much apparent increase in power, means that the new engine is more efficient (farther into Atkinson cycle territory). Let's hope so. (Trivia Note: When I was a kid my dad decried the move to "short stroke" engines, feeling that "long stroke" gave better torque at low RPMs so you didn't have to downshift as much. He would test drive a car up a certain mountain grade and if it could go up in 3rd gear it passed the test!)No more left-over oil from a 5 quart jug after an oil change! (But better yet - EV with no oil change!)4.7" taller with 1" less headroom had better give more ground clearance or seat height or both.More cargo space is great - and there should be a greater distance between wheel wells.Still wondering about: Towing capacity for all variantsPrice of courseWhere's the Model E?????

A centrifugal clutch??? The Enterprise is going back together and service called to ask if I wanted them to replace the "centrifugal clutch" that is apparently part of the flywheel (not inside the transmission). He said there wasn't any known problem with it - just that it is recommended to be replaced if the transmission is replaced. Cost is an extra $150 - I said go ahead. Now, I had no idea there was a centrifugal clutch in there or why. The technician didn't seem to know either. Can anyone tell us what it is and what it does for a living? I always assumed the ICE crankshaft connected directly to the transmission input. It can't be a conventional centrifugal clutch that only engages above a certain ICE RPM or how could the transmission start the ICE? Maybe its the other way round so it engages when the transmission is above a certain RPM (and going in the right direction!). Does anyone know or have any pictures? Thanks. EDIT: I guess I found it as part # DG9Z-7550-A here and many other places Would still appreciate any more info about it.

Per Edmunds the 2018 C-Max versus 2019 2WD Escape (C-Max / Escape) is: Weight: 3640 / 3526 lbsHeight: 63.9 / 66.3Width: 72 / 72.4Length: 173.6 / 178.1Comparing horsepower to the 2020 Escape: HP: 188 / 198So why can't they match the C-Max for mileage considering: Height about the sameWidth is +3.4 wider than C-Max if 2020 Escape is +3 over 2019 Escape. These dimensions would increase the "hole" by only 5%.Weight is -200 from 2019 so that's 3326 for, I assume, the non-hybrid. We don't know the weight for the Escape hybrid but its not likely to be more than the C-Max.The displacement went up 25% over C-Max but power only by 5%. The new ICE may be more efficient - leveraging that extra displacement for even better Atkinson cycle efficiency. Then again, what do I know?Perhaps some more control algorithm refinements.We'll have to wait and see but I do hope they hit 40 mpg combined. P.S. I wonder what tires they will use.

I got those checks too! Unfortunately, they only cover about 1/3 of my transmission replacement being done this week. I've been wondering what transmission is going in the Escape hybrids. Is it the same HF-35 or something else? All I've seen is that its a CVT.

C-Max EPA combined rating was 40 mpg, same as 2019 RAV4 hybrid. I would think Ford will try very hard to meet the RAV4 competition which means 40 mpg again, just like the C-Max. We'll see. Don't think I like the concave sides either but it sure wouldn't stop me from buying one. C-Max hybrid is 1.4 kW-hr but we know the "active range" is more like half that amount. I expect with further engineering and field experience with the C-Max Ford decided that 1.1 kW-hr is adequate - and I could easily believe it. OTOH, the plug-in Escape is said to be 14.1 versus 7.6 kW-hr on C-Max Energi, almost double. Storage behind rear seats is way up, 34.4 (Escape hybrids) versus 24.5 cu-ft. (C-Max hybrid) and 19.2 (C-Max Energi). I consider that increase a real plus. OH-NO: Just noticed that Car and Driver says "In nonhybrid models, the rear seat now slides fore and aft...". So where is it set on hybrids? All the way forward to make room for batteries? So much for having more rear leg room than a Suburban!

Well, I must say, the hybrids do look like great replacements for the C-Max (except price???). What I like or found interesting: Good overall styling - a lot better than some competitors.Awesome rear seats with all that adjust-ability. Really nice to be able to trade passenger room with luggage space as needed. And as one report stated, more rear legroom than a Suburban! Really? I checked it out - its true - one whole inch more! Pretty funny. EDIT: Car and Driver says "In nonhybrid models, the rear seat now slides fore and aft...". Where is the seat positioned in the hybrids?More ground/curb clearance (I hope - haven't seen numbers yet)2000 lb towing - that better be for hybrid versions too.What appears to be better packaging of the batteries.Nice sunroof. Does it open by having the glass slide back on top of the car? That's what it looked like in one of the pictures.More knobs than cup holders!Lots of technology of course and with an optional HUD. Is that going to seem like a gimmick or one of those "now that I have it I can't live without it" sort of things?And I bet it gets more advertising than the C-Max did!

Here it is on Ford.com

Oh, I agree. I'm not anxious to buy one - just to see how close it comes to ticking all the boxes on my with list if I were buying.

:waiting: :drool:

I'm hoping its really the Model E, called an Escape as a cover up, and there's also an electric only version!

The Enterprise went to my :ford: dealer today for its "new" transmission which had already arrived. I watched temps on Forscan and by the end of the 40 min +/- trip with ambient at 48, TFT was at 121, ECT around 180, phase temps around 100 and coil temps around140F. ;) This was driving country roads mostly near 55 mph with occasional stops - in and out of EV a lot. So, barring EMTs :sos: or an earlier than expected end to the ICE Age :waiting: , we should be driving our beloved C-Max again next week. :happy feet: Oh wow, I had about forgotten what a nice car it is to drive! :shift: We're glad its getting fixed. :)

Yes... we hope so. I still say its ending though - just hope gasoline stays available for 140k miles!

Oh yes, forgot about the gearing. So I suppose a Fusion Hybrid wouldn't be a good idea either with possible SW/VIN issues. Anyway, there seem to be quite a few C-Max ones out there - I'm searching now. EDIT: Ordered a 2016 transmission with 33k miles for $1200 + $150 shipping + opted for extended 1 year parts/labor warranty for $200 (standard was 90 day parts). My dealer checked the donor car's VIN and found they would order the same part number for it as for my 2013 so should go right in. It ships out today and should get installed end of next week. The wrecked car sustained a glancing blow on right front that didn't trip the air bags so the transmission shouldn't have been shocked too badly. EDIT#2: Not surprisingly, the old one gets scrapped so I can have it to tear apart!

Still considering the options. Dealer will install a transmission for about $1400 if I bring one to them. I guess I'll have another look around for a later model transmission with low miles. If anyone knows where to get a good used one, please let me know. Also, does anyone know if its possible to use one from an Energi!

Thanks Plus 3! Tried again with everything connected and got continuous blast of "static". Turned car off, pulled the connector, turned car on and got only occasional faint and random "ticks". Radio would turn "on" but no sound even with volume all the way up. Tried again with connector plugged in and this time there was minimal static and radio wouldn't turn on. Seems to be rather random as to what the radio display does but there is never any audio, just varying amounts of "static". So, back to leaving F79 out. :sad:

Sounds like my old problem described here. I've had 79 pulled for a long time to kill the noise (and radio!) because, as ubrkifix says, its dangerous - scares you half out of your wits its so loud. Just tried again with fuse back in. At first there was no noise and radio wouldn't turn on. After turning car On/Off a time or two (I think) the noise suddenly started (seemed to be set off by closing driver's door) and radio would turn on. Noise was now almost continuous - like intermittent bursts of static - really awful. I could start the "walk around test" and possibly here some little pops or something from various speakers but all the noise obliterated the test, I guess. Plus I don't know what the test is supposed to sound like. Which connector is for the mics? I'll have to go look for it. EDIT: I see two cables going to gray connectors of different sizes. Cables have big stickers with ACD on one, ASD on the other. Do these have anything to do with the mics? I got into the walk-around test again without much noise this time but didn't really hear anything.

I have a good hoist but no car lift! And really, I have too many projects now. I wiped it off today, drove out the driveway and back and it certainly looks like its leaking on the engine side of bell housing. Starting to think that the only real fix-it option is a new one at $7150 with 3 year warranty. Hate to ditch a car we still really like. Still undecided - plenty of almost new 2018s out there for about $15k - or used Tesla Model S cars for $30k. There are more Superchargers now - very convenient to our travel routes - free fuel - and who knows, 70k miles of additional depreciation offset with fuel savings might be no more than $7150! A dangerous line of thinking for SnowStorm.