SnowStorm

Hold on ... that one is for ATO fuses (0.75 inches wide). It looks like we have the so-called Mini fuses (0.43 inches wide). I think the correct item should be this one (don't know why it's 50% more!). As stolenmoment says, they are hard to find.

Thanks for the link. I got my data and saved it.

I bought a full size wheel from a wrecking yard and a new tire for our 2013 SE many years back for a long trip. It was strapped down flat in the back using the tie-downs in the floor and one in the back on the side at the hatch. The seats could still be up and the hatch closed (don't know if this works in the Energi). More recently I put on a hitch and have used a carrier for the spare along with other stuff on a long camping trip. The hitch maker insisted on support straps if used with a carrier so we had two red ones going from the cargo tie points in the back, up through the hinges, and down to the carrier. It looked weird but nothing broke. The first Time I bought new tires after getting the spare I only bought 3 new ones and used the spare for the 4th. I kept the best of the old ones for the spare. Now, of course, I get 4 new ones and still keep the best old one for the spare. That way there isn't an unused tire going to waste as a spare while getting older every year.

Its snowing like mad in Virginia right now but the ICE keeps melting! For Chrysler the ICE-Age ends in 6 years!!!! Let's just hope the new Airflow sells better than the original!

Well, I guess I'll have to jump in here. I expect disagreement with some of the following statements but, as someone who completely tore down a failed transmission (maybe the only one), I hope you will give them some credit. First, I suggest you read this topic and this post and the links it contains about "my story" and the TSB. I don't believe all of these early transmissions will fail in say (pick a number), 200k miles. The failure has nothing to do with the bearings themselves. The failure most likely has nothing to do with the oil pump running all the time or not. Read my July 15, 2021 post here and cr08's post following. The failure mode is not a slow "wear out" (like bearing wear due to lack of oil) but an abrupt one where a friction-fit band on the transfer shaft slips, thereby allowing the shaft to slop back and forth which causes wear against the housing and gear teeth to be damaged. In my case, all corners of the teeth on one gear were sheared off and the shaft wore a hole completely through the housing. The grinding sound mentioned in the TSB is likely due to gear teeth hitting each other (or the housing). I suspect that my shaft shifted further than most and the teeth corners were sheared off in one catastrophic event - therefor, I never had a grinding sound afterward. I only had a faint whir under very specific conditions (see below). Before buying any of these early cars do the following: If possible, determine if it might already have had a replacement Pull the pan under the engine and check for any leaks as some cars had a sealant failure between sections of the housing. Of course, make sure there are no grinding/thumping sounds as described in the TSB Make sure there is no faint whirring sound like I experienced. Check for this sound as follows: - Drive at about 35 MPH and let off the accelerator to be in EV mode. - Repeatedly press the accelerator as far as possible (while staying in EV mode) and let off to go into regen. Don't press hard enough to kick on the ICE. - Listen carefully for a faint smooth whir that starts and stops. If present, it likely indicates that the transfer shaft is sloping back and forth, rubbing in one direction but not in the other. I had this sound for possibly 50k miles! You might hear a "hum" from the electric motor when accelerating so this test might be a bit tricky, Anyway, the whir disappeared with the replacement transmission. The whir was not loud at all - could easily be disregarded. Drain a tiny bit of transmission fluid and check the color; black or reddish clear (like the new stuff). I'm not sure about this test as I have never heard if the fluid in a good transmission really stays clear (the change interval is 150k miles). However, if it is clear, then it should be good as there is no aluminum being worn off the housing. My fluid was quite black. Determine replacement cost and assess your willingness to accept the risks. After getting the car, do the following: NEVER use 'L' on the gear shifter or use the Downhill button on the side of the shifter. That is to say, never use engine breaking - its of little value anyway. Otherwise, drive how and where you like. I can't prove it of course but doubt that highway/city and all that makes any difference. Change the fluid as recommended. I suppose if you were having that whirring sound, it might be good to change it more frequently - might delay its eventual demise. Of course, be prepared to accept a failure should it ever happen. Otherwise, forget about it all and enjoy the car! I replaced my 2013 transmission at 172k miles and am now at 231k. I still love driving the car and, in spite of several problems, still consider it the "best" car I've had overall. Of course part of that "best" is the fuel savings! Naturally, only you can decide between the older and newer models. Personally, I would lean towards newer but would hardly rule out the older if everything checked out, it had the features/options I wanted and a really good price. (P.S. More comments here and here.)

Good job! I think that's the first I've heard of that fuse being blown.

Occasionally I have had the feeling of no power steering for a few seconds but never a warning. Do you have any error codes? Use ET (Engineering Test) display or better yet, get Forscan software and an OBDII dongle to read them. Lots of posts about ET and Forscan on this forum.

You can tell if the DC/DC converter is working by monitoring the voltage. If it is above about 14 volts when car is in "ready to run" mode,the converter is working. If the voltage is less than 13v, it is not. You con monitor voltage with a voltmeter in a 12V socket or use the ET (Engineering Test) mode on the left screen. Follow instructions here in plus 3 golfer's post of Jan 18, 2020 for how to get into ET mode. (Note: let go of the OK button when ET appears.) Once in ET mode, scroll down a bunch of screens and you get to one with Battery: 12.6v (or whatever the voltage is). With either method of monitoring you should see less than 13v with ignition "on" and then above 14v when in "Ready to run".

My 2013 SE is at 228k with transmission replaced at 172k. ICE has been flawless (I do use E0 gasoline).

Sounds like you need the Forscan software and suitable interface. Check the website and there are lots of posts on the forum. A lot of us have used it for years - very powerful.

Is 1/2 turn what the manufacturer says? I think the ones I've used say 3/4. I change mine and have not had a problem.

Came standard on our 2013. You can likely get one from a wrecking yard.

Is regenerative braking functional? Do you get the spinning circle on the battery gauge when braking and does the HVB charge up when going down a mountain? On a lift I would expect that you could spin either or both wheels any direction indefinitely. The ICE, the differential and the two electric motors are always geared together through the planetary gear set and the transfer shaft gears. There are no clutches and all gears are always meshed (nothing ever "shifts" - even for reverse). I tore my old one all apart and saw nothing you could adjust. Maybe there is a sticking brake caliber somewhere.

Is the "Average 5.2 mi/kWh" computed over the last trip, or since reset, or lifetime or what? That number comes to 192 Watt-hours per mile, very good I'd say. In thinking about electric cars in general I've been using 250 as a "round number". Its nice to see one can do a lot better. At least you can!

Aren't we mixing scenarios a bit? Degrandbob is asking about the timing after you shut the door. Just checked mine - about 25 seconds for inside lights off and another 5 for the dash to go out. I would expect these intervals to come from a simple timer and have nothing to do with the 12v battery (assuming it doesn't go "dead" during that 30 seconds!).

OK, the test has been run using my old connections and procedure from 7+ years ago! With hatch open and both outside and inside lights still on the 12v battery current was about 8 amps. After 10 minutes or so (didn't time it), only the inside cargo area lights were on and current was about 1.5 amps. After about 30 minutes the inside lights were out and current was about 0.25 amps. About 20 minutes later it was the same. In my previous test the current eventually dropped to a much lower value but even 0.25 amps all night shouldn't be a problem unless the 12v battery was about dead to start with. In any event, you should get one of those little lithium-ion "jump-start" packs so you can "start" the car in the morning (or any other time) in case the 12v battery does ever get run down too much for any reason. There are posts under the hood on the right side for this purpose - quite easy to do. No need to get in the back where the 12v battery is located.

I'm not sure. I have a sensitive meter to measure battery drain so I will run a test later tonight and let you know. You certainly don't want to run the engine with your tent arrangement.

You had a long wait but I'm sure you're excited - have fun! So what's the first mod, grill covers or a drop kit to cut drag underneath?

Further confirmation/correction/etc: Ignore the dealers - go by the book. Drain and refill at 150k There is a filter in there. I know, I tore my old transmission apart. It's encased in metal and is, maybe, 5x6x1 inches. You don't replace it. IMO, its not the bearings that fail but rather is a press-fit ring that slips, allowing the shaft to slop sideways and start rubbing/wearing the case and, in mine, shearing off gear teeth corners. Don't use engine braking. I can't prove it but still feel my failure occurred at the end of a long run using engine braking - horrible clunk and nasty sounds. Otherwise, drive normally and don't worry too much. Aside from the transfer shaft problem, I think the HF35 is an incredible design - no clutches, no shifting, etc.

Very interesting and good to know. Easy to believe though, since in "ready to run" mode the DC-DC converter provides all 12V power from the HVB and the 12V battery only gets charged.

Engine braking doesn't happen unless you are in 'L' or have downhill assist ON. I've filled the HVB numerous times in normal 'D' mode and you then have to use friction brakes to hold down your speed. In my view, you should NEVER allow engine braking to go active since I'm very suspicious that there was some problem going out of that mode that caused my transmission failure (horrible 'clunk' and nasty sounds). I still doubt that the lack of an oil pump has anything to do with transmission failures. Apparently, Ford fixed the problem without adding one.

I've seen it that low too - way back when I had a few dead batteries.

My 2013 SE failed at 172k and I tore the old one completely apart. The transfer shaft had shifted sideways, worn groves inside the housing (just like Ford's pictures), all the corners of the teeth on one gear were sheared off and the shaft wore a hole clear through the housing. The bearings looked quite good. I don't believe my failure had anything to do with bearing failure or lack of oil with ICE off. The shaft was coming apart. Even if the Energi has less/no failures, we can't just assume its the oil pump difference that is the cause. There could be software differences in control algorithms and operational differences like how often engine braking gets used or, who knows what. Does the Energi even have engine braking? With the larger battery it seems it should rarely be "needed". I refuse to use engine braking anymore.

Read this topic (especially my Aug 3, 2015, Jul 10, 2018 and Mar 1, 2019 posts) before you decide about new parts. I don't quite know what to think, really. I've stayed with the OEM Michelins for 221k miles so can't comment on other tires.

The 4/32" sounds fishy. This "rust" thing stinks. Rear brake "rust" was a problem for me after the law was changed to require "full contact". Mine had developed bands (as many others have seen) that were interpreted as not being "full contact" so no one would pass them. I think they were quite OK but I had to get new ones to pass inspection. Front brakes are still original at 221k miles! Sometimes I shift to N and brake hard to try and keep off any rust - don't know how much it will help. Look at your rotors and see if there are any bands that look different from other areas. If I see these bands again, I plan to sand the rotors with a random orbital sander then go out and do a bunch of panic stops to make them look better! I'm sure one brake job negates ALL the savings from regenerative braking. Be sure tires get rotated or you can get some nasty noise later on from cupping. I got asked once if I was running snow tires! My Michelin dealer rotates for free every 5k miles.