SnowStorm

Obviously, any "Ford shop" on Youtube has a lot more engineering knowledge, testing and experience than Ford (sarc). Some folks would change engine oil every 3k miles - all a waste of money and the environment.

From my experience you must rotate the tires or they will cup and get really noisy. I had a passenger once ask if I was running snow tires! My tire dealer rotates for free every 5k miles so that's what I do now. Problem solved.

I still warn against using engine breaking - ever! I can't prove it but I'm still suspicious that some problem (software?) surrounding its use trashed my transmission. Anyway, I hardly see the point of having the ICE screaming along at 3-4k rpm just to save the brakes for a few seconds.

Yes - prevents something conductive falling in and blowing the fuse; like happened to ours once.

We now have a wad of paper stuffed in ours!

Only use one that is shown on the Forscan web site.

Forscan is the software to use - go to their site for recommended adapters. Here are the instructions for resetting it from the driver's seat. I guess you should still use Forscan to verify it was reset. Of course if a dealer replaces the battery, they should do the reset - just make sure they do it.

There is a 12v battery age parameter stored in the car. Make sure it gets reset to zero when the new battery goes in or it won't get charged properly.

SnowStorm's ICE Age is finally ending. We bought a Tesla Model Y on Monday. A crazy story about how we stopped at a store just to "have a look" (had never even been in one) and ended up taking delivery of one they had on the lot that resulted from a double order that never got cancelled! It had interior/exterior colors we liked and even the tow hitch we need. The other options from Tesla were either a used one at literally the same price or wait for a new one for like 6-9 months! It was buy it now or it will be sold to someone else. The whole thing was a bit surreal. The Enterprise is staying with us for sure (expect we'll keep it indefinitely) so I'll still be around. We can now get rid of our big towing SUV and perhaps the Fit as well. The ICE keeps melting!

A good mechanic should be able to tell if it is ICE oil or transmission fluid (I'm assuming its not coolant from either the ICE or the inverter). There was a problem (TSB 15-0174) with transmission leak.

Here's a couple of wild guesses: There is some kind of breakaway "clutch" between the ICE and the transmission. Read about it here. If it were faulty, it might be causing the problem if it slips (when it shouldn't). You have to remove the ICE/transmission unit from the car and split them apart to get to it but you don't have to open the transmission. There is some software issue that hasn't been updated. Are you using any engine braking ( L on the gearshift or the hill descent button on the side of the gearshift). I doubt you would in FL but I still think it was an engine braking transition that damaged my transmission. There was an awful clunk/lurch after a long period of engine braking. My guess is that there was a software bug that didn't handle the transition properly.

Or rent a trailer with the truck that carries the whole car - a lot simpler.

At Walmart - last year sometime I guess. I don't remember the price, just that it was cheaper. Maybe it was a special or maybe I just messed up on the mental math comparison! It was the so called "high mileage" joke, 5W-20, which now shows online at $49.97. Anyway, for someone doing 2 or more oil changes per year (yuk!!!), I like the box. P.S. I don't give a hoot about all the silly variants the 'malarketing' folks come up with! The cheapest 5W-20 Mobil 1 is fine for me (other brands too no doubt). At 243k total miles this crazy car still uses essentially no oil - maybe a few ounces!

Ditto on my 2013 hybrid as well. Also see the D454A number near the top but at the bottom is FoMoCo CM5E-6750-BB. 4.5 qt is always enough (includes filter change). BTW, Mobil 1 now comes in 12 qt box with a nice spigot that is considerably cheaper than the 5 qt jugs.

You should have around 14v with the car on ("ready to run" mode). At this time the DC-DC convertor is charging the 12v battery as well as supplying the cars 12v loads. You may indeed need a new battery (maybe it has a shorted cell?) but after putting one in, make sure the DC-DC converter is working properly so the new battery stays charged. (And make sure the 12v battery age parameter is reset to zero.)

48.0 mpg. It was up to 49 IIRC but I've been driving up to the speed limit in recent years, though still trying to overcome the family reputation of being a "slow" driver! I often think about how my dad, back in the "good ol' days", was happy to get anything over 20 mpg on the highway with a 6 cylinder engine and manual transmission. I do use E0-87 gasoline almost exclusively, so that helps.

"The Enterprise" made history today - hit 100k EV miles out of 242k total! That's 4 times around the world with the ICE OFF! I never would have thought the EV miles would be 41% of total. I reset Trip 2 and will track on-going EV miles that way. Well, actually its sitting on 99999.9 miles! Ford either 1) didn't have enough faith in the C-Max's longevity, 2) didn't think there were any real hypermilers out here or 3) the programmer was just too lazy to program one more digit! I'm voting on #3. But I still want a car (or truck or microbus) that gives 100% EV miles!?

A manual procedure is in this post. You can also use the Forscan software and an OBDII dongle (read the whole topic).

Also, there are two posts under the hood (on driver side) where you should 'jump-start' the car. I wouldn't try using a 12v outlet.

Mine is still dead - I guess. I have just left the fuse out to get rid of the noise. But no radio and no car-connected phone is getting old. If I didn't have so many projects I'd like to tear into it and see if I could find the problem. Way back, my dealer thought it was probably the 'radio' and it would cost like $500 also.

Don't forget to reset the battery age counter.

Good information. I need to wire mine up permanently (18 months later!) and like the idea of having it come on before ignition. Now I need to order those taps.

I have no experience with C-Max traction devices but both my son and I have bought from etrailer and think they are great.

FYI, the 14-0214 TSB has been superseded by 16-0105 available here. It outlines either replacing the whole transmission (if the housing is worn internally) or just installing a tranfer shaft kit. Lots of $$$ either way, no doubt. What was the dealers quote?

Read my post of Dec 7, 2021 in this topic about the transmission issue. If the transmission is OK and the dead 12v battery issue was resolved (or hasn't happened), then it could be worth it at the right price. I can't suggest a price - research that on-line. Of course you want to consider all the normal used car concerns for something with that many miles. Mine is a 2013 SE with 234k miles and I intend to hit 250k and possibly 300k.