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Not sure if this is the same thing but here is a comment of Bill-N about a noise after the engine was off. From: I and several others have noticed this. I'm guessing it's the C-Max performing fuel system evaporation leak test(s). These apparently need to be done after the car sits awhile so there is no pressure inside the fuel system. There's some mention of these tests here (http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/491-check-engine-light/page-4) that may help.

There is some additional height available but I am not sure how much. I recall a member using cable chains in the snow driving to a ski mountain without a problem. There might be something in the manual about this. I vaguely remember cable chains are OK but full height chains are not. I personally own a set of cable chains but have not needed them. (Though I did install them on one tire to see how hard it was going to be.)

If you can check your lifetime braking stats that would be a good indicator of whether the 4/32 is deserved. If the stats are good then the car mostly uses the back brakes just for 5 to 0 mph. At around 50K my brake stat was something like 95% and the back linings where getting low though still legal and the fronts where looking really good. The rotors were looking grooved like SnowStorm mentioned. I ended up replacing the linings and rotors myself. Parts were cheap off of ebay. My mechanic doesn't get picky about the grooves though I can see how that could be a problem with some places and I was concerned he eventually would. Actually the contact is still somewhat full because the linings have similar grooves that fit to the rotor. The cupping of the rear tires has been very frustrating and "evening the wear" through rotation has been noisy and irritating to me. My latest tire purchase I decided to just not rotate the tires and see how that works out. I haven't driven enough to say whether it was a good idea. I kind of assumed the newer C-Max would have less tilt on the back wheels because it seems like a big design defect.

Dry the area really well. (perhaps put a fan in there and let car run with heater on). Lay down paper or cardboard or something that will allow better detection of the way of entry. Perhaps stuff paper towels in places the water could come down to also detect source. You might consider changing shoes on rainy or snowy days to control your putting water in there. It probably is a good idea to dry it well for once mildew gets started it is hard get rid of the smell. I left my windows open and had a lot of water come into the car. The compartment on the back seat floor had an inch of water and the seats were soaked. I left 2 fans and a dehumidifier in there for 3 days to dry it out. ( I am hardly driving these days. )

I changed my brakes on all four wheels. A year ago when state inspected was told rear brakes were low and I got them to pass it. There was uneven wear on one side so one lining was getting thin but the rotors were pretty bad. I thought it was due to the hybrid braking but looking at videos on the Ford Focus, the deterioration looks similar. I decided to do the fronts too so I did not have to deal with the mechanics not passing something. I probably could have gotten by with just one rotor in the front. Linings were like 60%. I am glad I did it if just for the fact of becoming aware of the stuck on wheel in the front (see #1) (55,500 miles, 2013 C-max, parked outside) Thoughts for people that are considering doing brakes themselves. 1. One of the front wheels was rusted on. (WD40 did not help enough.) I ended up needing to use the new style brake piston compressor as a spreader in aiding to break it off. I pushed off the spokes of the wheel as close as I could get to the center. I am now leaving the essential parts of the piston compressor in the car in case I need to change tire and can't get it off. ( I have a spare.) I did put some silicon grease on the wheel that might help and sanded the rusty areas. ( I did some thinking and some research afterwards. One youtube video showed hitting the rim and tire with a rubber coated sledgehammer. And then mentioned if that doesn't work, with loosened lugs nuts drive in a circle. I like that idea if the spreader didn't work. What usually works for me is kicking the tire. With spreader the kick worked.) 2. Used a brick to break the rotor off. A hammer just wasn't heavy enough. 3. I bought rotors and pads for both wheels off ebay for around $100. 4. I am getting older and I used a written rear brake change plan to make sure I didn't miss something. I probably should have done that for the fronts. (Forgot to put on a clip, needed to take wheel off again. It took me about twice as long as I thought it would. 5. A torque socket T45 is needed. The rest is pretty standard metric sockets, small extension, breaker bar. 6. I used some silicon grease and anti cease to lubricate bolts and pads. It may have been better to get brake lube. I actually did not lub all the pads right. I should have looked at where the pads rub and lubed after that. I did use that rubbery quiet stuff on the rear pads and some of the front ones. (another thing I forgot) 7. I looked at videos on youtube for ford focus to do the rears. 8. I bought a brake piston compressor kit that also turns which was needed for the rear brakes. (around $20) Picture order (front, rear, front wheel that was rusted/corroded stuck) (Note the rust on the front rotor was because I left it out in the rain after I took it off.)

Not sure if this is the part but it might be. Maybe this will help you in your decision though I do realize that labor is expensive. This listing says the part is compatible with 2013-2016 https://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-2016-Ford-C-Max-Electric-Power-Steering-Rack-and-Pinion-Assembly/322582691684?epid=3008686485&hash=item4b1b6d3f64:g:1SkAAOSw44BYQYj6:rk:2:pf:1&frcectupt=true This listing which is less expensive says it is only compatible with 2014 but to me it might be worth an email to verify this for the above one is compatible with 3 years. https://www.ebay.com/p/Power-Steering-Pump-and-Gear-Assembly-Motorcraft-STE-136/210219556?iid=263736880292&chn=ps I am curious how many miles you have on your car ?

More information would be better ? When did the sound start and how did it progress. Sound at other speeds ? Metallic roar or more like a vibration - more understanding of "roar?" If you look at the tires, is the inside of the tires worn more than the rest of the tires, a sign of cupping. Have you rotated the tires, and if so how often and how recently ? And how does the sound change with the rotation ? One common problem, cupping, with earlier C-Maxes that produces sound can be found here. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/4109-tire-noise/page-4 I would think cupping of tires is most likely given your low mileage.

I suppose because of the cyber monday many cards available at $92. Conoco, BP, Exxon/Mobil, Phillips, Chevron/Texaco, Sunoco, Speedway Limit 3 - I just got three Sunoco cards My experience with svmgiftcards, the seller, has been very good and they have 99.7% positive feedback. Be sure this is the seller. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=gas%20card%20only%20-credit%20-sd%20-park%20%20-vintage%20-advert&_sacat=0&rt=nc&_udlo=91&_udhi=94

What does turino mean in this usage? - - - My sense is the engineers of this motor/transmission did a great job in a lot of respects as well as other aspects of the design. ( and had a few major bugs that took a little while to iron out, transmission, dead battery, cupping rear tires (which I hope was fixed in later cars but not sure). I assume the car was still feeling under control at 105.

deleted ( I just repeated post 28 ) I have had bad brakes and rotors in another car and the brakes actually don't stop as well - they stop like drum brakes in a car going over 95 mph but not as bad (need to press harder). I suspect your car still stops really well.

"Check out the reliability ... some years tend to be better than others." 2013s tend to have a bad trans that could total your car after 8 years or 100,000 miles from when first sold (as I recall) 2014s and 2015s tend have a better trans but not perfect yet. 2016 and later have a good sound system rather than weird one that as I recall Consumer Report complained about also. If I were risking my reputation or recommending to a friend, get a 2016 or better. Get a 2013 only if it is a REALLY REALLY low price or the trans has been replaced. Get a 2014 or 2015 if it is a very good price. ( Not sure if the cupping problem was lessened in later than 2013 models. I suspect it was for that is some real mis-engineering in my opinion. )

If you got the oil changed at a dealer, they should have reset it though sometimes that can get left undone. Not having it reset did happen to me once from a dealer oil change. If you got it done at a non-Ford dealer I wouldn't bet that it was reset but there may be a sticker on the windshield or door indicating when the oil change was done and at what mileage. My understanding is that the oil indicator comes on to allow the oil to be changed once a year or every 10000 MILES or less if a lot of stop and go driving.

What is the VIN C trans ? I suspect it is a trans that has all the fixes, like the ones in the later 2015's and 2016+.

I thought of one other time it happened. My Father's 2000 Honda Accord. That model had known transmission problems. His car was out of warranty, I called Honda for him and told them he was old and 3000-3400 was too much money. After as I recall was more than one call, they offered to pay about half with him paying the labor and I accepted immediately. It might be worth a call to Ford though don't get your hopes up. I called Toyota to try to do the same thing on my 1999 Sienna but they would not talk to me saying take it to the dealer and the dealer was not helpful though took my money to look at it. Though a rebuilt trans was only going to cost me like 3200 as I recall. It might also be worth calling Ford to see if they have any rebuilt transmissions or use that they do not have rebuilt transmission as leverage to get Ford to pay some of it. And as other have mentioned, ebay sells used transmissions but getting installation may be challenging. Installing a C-Max trans is a big deal and I would not want someone to do it that hasn't done it before.

Agree. Ford made a costly mistake. It was too expensive to do a recall so they figured it better to just fix the problems that came up within the warranty period knowing that it would likely end the life of a car for the cars with the problem out of the warranty period. By the way, Ford is not the only car company to do this. It happened to me with a Toyota trans and with a friend of mine with a Saturn engine. I may be in a similar position with my 2013 but because of warranty time rather than miles. I did get the extended warranty for the maximum time but it is not that long.