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help i have the same problem my check transmission light is on ive changed oil ive spent 1200 euros on rebulding certain gears 4 and reverse ar always the biggest problem on the B clucth then after a while 2nd a third then your stuc on first and secodnd for a while thats exactly where i am it wont go past 40 kph i dont have enough money to fix it properly i need a solution that will at least give me some time

I was thinking fuel injector , but what do I know so I asked chatgpt AI. Here is what I got back... It sounds like you're experiencing an intermittent issue with your 2017 Ford C-Max Energi, and the fact that the yellow wrench light appears along with engine clacking and power loss points to a possible issue with the engine or transmission. The fact that turning the car off and on temporarily resolves it suggests an electrical or sensor issue, though it's tricky without any specific error codes. Here are some potential causes and things to check: Battery and Electrical System: Since the battery was replaced recently, it's worth considering that the charging system (alternator, wiring, etc.) might be causing the issue, especially if the car's electrical system isn't functioning properly. Even though the dealer replaced the battery, other electrical faults (e.g., a failing alternator) could cause power loss. Throttle Body or Throttle Position Sensor: The clacking and power loss could be related to a malfunction in the throttle body or throttle position sensor. This could cause erratic engine behavior, and the system might be resetting when you turn off the car. A diagnostic scan might help here, even if no error codes are currently visible. Hybrid Powertrain System: Since the C-Max Energi is a hybrid, issues with the hybrid system (like the electric motor or hybrid battery) could cause engine performance issues. A hybrid-specific diagnostic tool would be needed to check this. Transmission Issues: The “clacking” noise could also be coming from the transmission, which might have an intermittent fault, especially if it’s related to the power transition between the gas engine and the electric motor. Sensor or Module Failure: There might be an issue with one of the many sensors (e.g., crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor, or fuel system sensor) or a module that's not throwing an error code but causing intermittent failure. A more thorough diagnostic might reveal this. Since the issue is intermittent and there are no error codes, I'd suggest having a Ford technician perform a deeper diagnostic scan, including hybrid system checks and possibly checking any updates for the car’s powertrain control module. It could also be worth checking the service history for any outstanding recalls or service bulletins that might relate to these symptoms.

I may miss some questions, but will try to cover everything: There's no conventional engine starter on either the hybrid or Energi models. The engine is cranked by the starter/generator motor in the transmission as part of the hybrid system and is directly powered by the HVB. The 12v battery is just used to wake up the various computer modules and activates the HVB contactors so it can take over. But it still needs beefy cables as it still has other sizable 12v loads no different than a traditional ICE only vehicle plus additional unique 12v loads like the electric power steering, electric water pump, etc.. The DC-DC converter takes place of a traditional alternator, converting power from the HVB down to the 12-14v to charge the 12v battery and provide running power to all the 12v systems. It is capable of providing up to ~140 amps of power and is programmed to behave like a traditional alternator in many respects. It runs at all times when the vehicle is running even when the engine is off. Much like an ICE only vehicle, the 12v battery should be able to be sufficiently maintained under normal driving conditions, even without plugging in, as long as you don't drive super short trips constantly. The HVB is able to be charged in a number of ways: Via plugging it in for Energi models or via regen braking or the engine directly charging it while cruising. Regen can happen while actively braking, coasting, or using cruise control/hill descent control. Any time you see the upper arrow on the gauge in the cluster (I am not sure if the 2014 models still had this. Ford removed it in some later model years), charge is going back in. HVB charge level does not impact the DC-DC converter in any significant fashion that I am aware of. For Energi models while plugged in and the HVB is charging, the onboard charger, separate from the DC-DC, will provide a minimal amount of 12v support to keep the car awake during the process. Once the HVB is completely charged, it will top up the 12v battery before putting the vehicle to sleep completely. No further 12v battery maintaining will be done in this state until the vehicle is woken up again (ie: Locking/unlocking, opening a door, etc. when everything begins to light up inside) The 'second battery gauge' is simply showing the hybrid portion of the battery charge. There's only one single HVB and it is software segmented between of the plug-in charge and the depleted hybrid only operation. Once the plug-in charge is depleted and that second gauge shows, it will fluctuate up and down normally as it is driven and normal charge/discharge cycles happen of the HVB. When in this depleted charge mode, the 'EV Auto' mode you're stuck in behaves the same as EV Later. The brake pedal is specifically designed in these vehicles that under light application it does not put pressure on the friction brakes but engages regen at various levels depending on pedal pressure. The further the pedal is applied, you start physically applying friction brakes as well. Low gear just engages extra off-pedal regen. Unlike an ICE only vehicle, it will not affect how the vehicle operates while accelerating. It should NOT be conflated with one pedal driving for a few reasons. It will not bring you to a complete stop on its own. Regen effect will start to taper off down under 5-10mph. Also the brake lights will only activate with the brake pedal applied. Using cruise control and hill descent control (The button on the left side of the gearshift) will also apply regen in their own way. Cruise control will maintain speed via deceleration as well as acceleration. Under decel it will focus on regen as much as possible and has methods to bring in full ICE based engine braking and the friction brakes if needed. Hill descent control will try to keep you from gaining speed downhill with no throttle/brake applied, even without cruise set. Similarly, it will use regen as much as possible.

So there's no conventional "starter" to start the ICE? I just acquired a 2014 Energi from my sister-in-law who, sadly, cannot drive anymore, & I'm learning more & more about this car. So, what, basically does the 12v battery do? It has regular starter sized cables coming off it, why would it need those large cables if there's no starter? Would a deep cycle battery be a better choice for this application? From reading this forum, there is no alternator to keep the 12v charged? So there's a DC-DC trickle charger that runs when the car is on. Does it also charge when it's plugged in? I've also noticed you can't use EV later if the battery has no miles left on it. Also it automatically uses the EV at "idle" & take offs, then switches to ICE. ICE shuts off when coasting too. My sis-in-law never plugged it in, she drove it in hybrid mode all the time & she had problems with the 12v right from the start, now I know why. She bought it in 2017 with 22k miles, when I got it had 33k, lol. She always took it to the dealer for service, oil change every 6 months, all the recalls, & I see a fairly new Motorcraft 12v battery in there. In later years, the only time it ran was to the pharmacy & back. When I first got it, we drove home (50 miles) at night, mainly using ICE but not really running it hard. One day after picking up my 6 year old granddaughter, we got on the main road & she said "you gotta go fast grandpa", so I pushed it a little harder. OMG, the smokescreen I left behind me, I looked like a skywriter! It dissipated for the most part but could see a little lingering smoke. I thought I blew something up, got it home, checked the oil, full & very clean. I can just assume I blew out the water built up in the exhaust from all those years of putting around town. I did that again, got a little bit of vapor blowing out. Since then we have taken a fairly long trip using ICE only (EV later mode), no more skywriting, lol. What is the second battery gauge for? I notice when the charge goes out of the HVB, another battery monitor appears, is that "hybrid" mode? Does it only regenerate while braking or will it charge while coasting? On our long trip I went down a steep grade for a few miles, riding the brake pedal lightly all the way down. Got 3 miles worth of charge out of that! At the bottom I pulled over to feel the brake rotors, the rear ones were cold, actually cold, the fronts were barely warm, you could hold you hand on it. So riding the brake pedal will engage the generator in the transmission, & only apply the brake when you push down more? If I put the transmission in "Low" will that increase the charging, or am I losing out by not riding the brake? I know, so many questions! I realize this thread is almost one year old, thanks for any help (advice) you can give this newbie!

Seeking Testimonials of people that have Successfully Upgraded Sync versions and USB Hubs on 2016 and older Cmaxes. I'll be having a new driver soon and I was looking to get her a C-max Hybrid. Right now we have our eyes set on a 2016 or newer (bc of Transmission fears).... but now I'm learning about Carplay support introduction in 2017. Rather than opening up the discussion on the transmission fears being overblown... I'd like to focus discussion on the Carplay aspect. Curious to know how many of you had success updating your Sync 3 revisions and install newer USB Hubs to support Carplay??? Thanks in advance.

I've got about 146K on my 2013 Hybrid and the transmission is still fine so far .. fluid changed at 100K with no issues. I've recently changed from mostly back road driving to mostly highway so we'll see. The vehicle has been pretty reliable with just basic service -- oil changes, 12V battery, coolant and spark plug change around 80-100K I think? It had a bad reputation to start with because of overstating the MPG for sales purposes and the battery drain issue. (I'll never forget when I drove past the Chevy dealer and for a short time they had a big sign advertising their Colorado pickups getting 60MPG?? .. like you can't compete, so just lie right?) I never did experience battery drain issue with my SEL, but a few times the amp has hung up, requiring pulling the fuse to get audio back .. one time the APIM hung while I was on a long trip and it ended up resetting itself after some responsiveness timer probably elapsed. Sync 2 seems to have issues keeping track of which CD track is playing, the LED ambient light for the driver's side turns blue instead of the selected RED color when you open the door after turning the car off, sometimes the car alarm goes off if you are too quick opening the back drivers door after unlocking the doors? That's a pretty comprehensive list of things I've had go wrong, but at least no MAJOR problems yet .. most of them are just nuisance issues. I remember being able to open the hood and change the headlight bulb in my Cavalier within 30 seconds -- that doesn't seem to happen anymore because of service shop $$$ needs.

This advice was spot on. I had the exact same symptoms with my 2016 CMAX after 9 years but just 35,000 miles. I don't trust the local Ford dealer's repairs after recent experience. I found the pump online at another LA area dealer's online parts department saving $135 off the list. It took some calls to find a shop to install it for me. The first places I tried wanted nothing to do with what they thought was a transmission issue. Eventually I reached a guy that knew what I was talking about and told me it would take less than an hour to install. I considered his rate of $150 per hour to be a bargain. Left it for a few hours on a Saturday. He installed the pump and cleared the code and the car is running fine with no engine light and choice of EV mode back.

If you don't want to tackle replacing the transmission bearings yourself, Hybrid & Electric Car Sales out of Franklin, TN will do all of the work for $~4500. If you pull the transmission, Chip will repair it for ~$2800.

The transmission can be removed without pulling the engine; however, you should use a "cherry picker" to support the engine from the lift bracket found on top of the engine, then disconnect the motor-mount on the passenger side of the engine bay. This allows the 1/4" movement (towards the passenger side) you will need to get the transmission out. Unlike the Ford Fusion Hybrid, Ford engineers did not leave enough space in the engine bay to allow safe removal of the transmission with the engine fully-installed. It is literally that tight in the C-Max engine bay, and that is why Hybrid & Electric Car Sales out of Franklin, TN, charges $500 more than the identical FH35 transmission repair service, compared to the Fusion. If anyone wants to attempt a repair of their HF35, I'm happy to share what I learned going through the entire process, in my garage, with the help of none other than my amazing brother-in-law, Steve.

We finally removed and split-open the HF35 in our 2013 C-Max Energi after 222,500 miles. The "grinding" noise had started ~6 months prior (~12,000 miles prior). This is the first serious problem we have had with this car since new. NOTE: I had changed the transmission fluid twice (first time @ 99,659 miles, the second time @ 200,657 miles). The interval recommended by Ford in the owners manual is every 150,000 miles(!). Three of the four roller bearings in our HF35 had severe spalling. I replaced all four roller bearings as well as the pump filter. In hindsight, I wish I had changed the transmission fluid every 50,000 miles; maybe that would have extended the life, maybe a lot, maybe a small amount. I think 100,000 miles was asking too much out of Mercon LV in the HF35 application, let alone 150,000 miles which Ford recommended. We ordered a 2025 Ford Maverick Hybrid (CVT), and I'll be replacing the transmission fluid every 50,000 miles, religiously. I have about ~$250.00 into repairing the HF35 in our C-Max. Transmission has been reinstalled and car has been test-driven: No more grinding noise. Hoping to get another 100,000 miles out of this car. If you are mechanically-inclined, have a "cherry-picker", transmission jack, and are willing to spend ~$100 on bearing puller tools (if you don't already own them), this can be done with the help of a second mechanically-inclined friend/relative, and not that much $$...

This data in late 2024, looks different now, I think Consumer Reports found some transmissions with issues maybe built around 2015 (MY 2016) and in early 2013 releases, but overall the eCVTs are very reliable. Consumer Reports is stringent with giving out double green arrows. And if you do a bit of research on eCVT from Toyota, these things are iron clad. If Ford used Aisin (Toyota's transmission house) then this should not be a grave concern, outside of what is noted.

Ford updated their TSB on the transmission issues in the past couple years to cover all years so there's no 'safe' year. That said, as always it isn't a guarantee you'll experience it. Extended warranty is up to you and what you think is a safe bet. Just make sure it covers everything you may need. As far as preventative measures, I and others have recommended shortened transmission fluid change intervals. Ford calls for 150k miles. I think around every 75k is safe. No guarantee it will help prolong the life but at the very least it would give you a visual and see if there's any metal particles in the fluid coming out before things worsen. These transmissions have no normal wear components like clutch packs or the like so there shouldn't be any 'expected' contaminants in the fluid. That said it also means there's no harm in doing the shorter intervals or even shorter at your own discretion. Even high mileage changes should not be an issue. It's not like a traditional automatic transmission. It's more like a basic manual in this regard. Just a drain and fill and there for lubrication/cooling.

Hello, I recently purchased a 2017 Ford C-Max Energi Titanium with 15k miles. I did my research on these for about a year, and finally found the color, trim, and mileage I wanted. Its my understanding that my C-Max was built after the transmission issues were corrected (Aug 15,2015). With that said, I'm wondering what, if anything, I should do as preventative for this car? Should I get the extended warranty? Change the transmission fluid? I'm open to suggestions. Carfax on the car is clean. Thanks for any input.

From memory some people on this forum have had luck sourcing a used 2016+ transmission from wrecking yards via car-part.com, and getting a local mechanic to install that. It will cost much less than the 7k the dealer wants to charge.

He's an interesting tale. I have 2016 cmax energi . I love this car I bought used with around 50,000 miles on it and luckily it was certified. Anyway jump ahead about year and 17,000 and the transmission starts making noise blah blah blah. Anyway the dealer is great they say they will replace but it's peak COVID and parts were hard to find and the car stayed there for awhile but eventually it got done. Great! I now have car with 70,000 miles on it and new transmission so I'm good. Fast forward 3 years and 50,000 miles and guesses what. The transmission starts making noise. I take it back to the dealer they say it's possibly the transmission out a bearing in the axle and in order to figure it out it's going to cost me $1300 for a half shaft and if the noise is still there then it's the transmission. Ok I guess I don't have choice. The fix they say fixed but it really did not. Some the transmission only has 3 year warranty I'm out of luck. So to summarize Ford replace my faulty transmission with a worse transmission and I now have car with 121000 miles that needs a $7000 transmission...it probably the end of the car honestly.

>or 10 yr/150,000 mi if (first)sold in a CARB state. I have a 2014 Ford Cmax hybrid SE. (certified as ULEV II) It was sold in a CARB state, and is currently registered in a CARB state. I was told I needed my entire transmission replaced. This counts as a hybrid component as you mention here- but I am curious about the extended 10 year/150k miles warranty. I can't find anywhere that states that hybrid components of a ULEV II vehicle, bought and currently registered in a CARB state, will abide by the 10 year/150k miles warranty instead of the standard 8 year/100k mile warranty. I think this is my ticket to having the transmission replacement cost covered by ford. All I see addressed are AT PZEV certified vehicles being covered for 15 years/150k miles. I really need that statement that covers ULEV II vehicles, or at least 2014 hybrids being covered for 10 year/150k miles bought and registered in CARB states, and the the issue is a hybrid component.

The transmission fluid actually looked like new but I believe it was a little bit low because I've added like 1/2 Liter more than I've drained

Wow, amazing! How dirty was the transmission fluid at 150k? My daughter has my old 2013 SEL with 80k , and no repairs so far. My son has 2016 Energi with 85k and no repairs so far. Doesn't go as far on battery only though.

I have a 2013 CMax SE and I LOVE IT. I have 87k on it. Heard high pitch noise under hood. Had leaking fluid from transmission involving CV shaft. Car still makes whizzing noise and dealer said damage to pumps due to no fluid in transmission cause it and may run 20k up to 75k and then quit. I am tempted to install another transmission because I don't want to worry about it dying somewhere in traffic, etc. (single woman). Should I invest in a 2018 Max or just buy something else OR install a new transmission? I read about people on here having 250k on their max. I want to be one of those people.

And this video shows you the basics of how/where to check the level and add fluid. Use Mercon LV transmission fluid-dealer or AutoZone should have it.

Hi Maddie, yes something is leaking a bit of transmission fluid. A bit hard to tell from the pics but maybe leaking between the two halves of the casing. How long has it been like that and are you seeing drops on the ground after parking at work or home? If you aren’t sure I’d suggest wiping it with a rag then spraying it clean with some non chlorinated brake cleaner you buy ant AutoZone type store, then monitor. Are you noticing noises or bad shifts when accelerating or decelerating? I’d certainly suggest you check your fluid level. You do that by removing the plug on the side of the transmission housing from inside the left front wheel well. See my post in this thread for some additional info.

What is this box and why is it leaking? Are the transmission cooler lines leaking?

Probably front wheel bearings. They typically get quite warm/hot when failing. Carefully feel around the wheel hub for unusual warmth. But I'm surprised you didn't notice any noise when you did the brake work. I too hope it's not the transmission. Cheers.

Wheel bearings, hope it's not the transmission.

Did you ever figure this out? I'm getting ABS warnings, stiff power steering, no speedometer issues. This after replacing front bearings, transmission mount, and wiper reservoir.