Wont stay running, help.

[J-Max]

HELPPPPPPP. 2013 C-Max SEL (non-plug in).
Went to start her up this morning, about 0°. Engine started right away but RPM was really low, guessing 3-400 rpm (see pic, sometimes the indicator would be a bit lower then shown) and very rough. Stepped on the throttle no change. after 10-15 seconds it shut off and gave me the "STOP SAFELY NOW" error message. I've seen the batter charge bar pretty low before on low teen temp days and noticed she's a little rough for a minute or so before smoothing out to normal. I don't think I've ever seen it this low. My 12v battery is just a year and a half old, I know it only powers the lights/computer etc., just stating for background info.
I tried starting a few times, and even put a charger to the 12v (just set on 2amp trickle just incase (I'm certain that doesn't do anything for the big battery) for maybe 20 minutes and tried again, same results..
What could the problem be? Low charge in big battery? I would think if there was enough to spin the engine, once it's running it would start generating and everything would operate back to normal.

Is there anyway to put a charge to the big battery?

TIA

[homestead]

For starters, I would measure the 12v battery without the charger and see what it reads.

 Can you put the car in a garage and warm it up to see if the problem is temperature related?

I've seen the hybrid battery that low a couple times but it didn't affect the operation.

[cr08]

Based on the low RPM, I'd say it isn't able to successfully start the engine and is failing out for some reason. It may seem like the engine is running, but it's not. It's just with it being cranked by the hybrid system it feels a lot smoother than a traditional ICE vehicle.

 

Being a hybrid vehicle, I'd IMMEDIATELY stop trying to start it as it'll continue to drain the HVB until it can't be used any further and you'll be stuck with a dealer having to bring in a charger to bring it back up which will cost $$$. No way to DIY it yourself at least safely.

 

Get codes read and see what the vehicle is reporting.

 

If you want to see a good example of what a 'no start' condition feels like, here's a good video. It's from an old Escape hybrid but the systems are nearly the same:

 

Edited Sunday at 11:42 PM by cr08

[J-Max]

1 hour ago, homestead said:

For starters, I would measure the 12v battery without the charger and see what it reads.

 Can you put the car in a garage and warm it up to see if the problem is temperature related?

I've seen the hybrid battery that low a couple times but it didn't affect the operation.

Nope, no room in the garage, got my Galaxie in there with the carb off waiting for me to rebuild it. I'll check the 12v voltage tomorrow but I doubt thats a problem, all the lights popped on right away as normal.

4 minutes ago, cr08 said:

Based on the low RPM, I'd say it isn't able to successfully start the engine and is failing out for some reason. Being a hybrid vehicle, I'd IMMEDIATELY stop trying to start it as it'll continue to drain the HVB until it can't be used any further and you'll be stuck with a dealer having to bring in a charger to bring it back up which will cost $$$

 

Get codes read and see what the vehicle is reporting.

Unfortunately, I don't have a code scanner. I might be stuck towing to a dealer anyhow.  I'm on the Illinois/Wisconsin state line, the stupid single digit and sub zero temps are going to last thru Tuesday night. Might wait until Wednesday and try again. Could be some moisture in the gas lines? Sorta doubt that, hasn't been an issue in any of my cars in decades.

Could be with the HVB so low the drag from the generator combined with a really cold engine is keeping it from getting up in rpm? 

 

Thanks for the replies guys.

[cr08]

12 minutes ago, J-Max said:

Could be with the HVB so low the drag from the generator combined with a really cold engine is keeping it from getting up in rpm? 

Maybe, but I'm doubtful. It'll know if it has enough charge in the HVB to start the engine successfully. If there wasn't, it wouldn't even get to the cranking stage. And these have enough oomph to get even a stone cold ICE started. You're talking a nominal ~300V battery pack with gobs of amps vs a ~12v lead acid battery starting an ICE only vehicle.

 

Hopefully it is something simple on the ICE side like fuel/spark/throttle body. But getting codes read first is really the best first step. Without any kind of diagnostic tools available, you're merely guessing. And you can't afford to continue trying to start it and drain the HVB further.

Edited Sunday at 11:56 PM by cr08

[J-Max]

Thats what I'm thinking and hoping, (the fact that it's spinning and starting the ICE that the HVB is not the problem). Maybe a bit of water contamination in the fuel icing up the or a few injectors, as I mentioned, going to leave it until Wednesday, supposed to hit mid 20's. Busy watching my granddaughter today, besides it being to danged cold to do anything but run from the house to the car (wifes car today!).

[J-Max]

Just saw the video you posted (odd, I didn't see it te other day).

Anyhow, mine didn't even "run" anywhere near that smooth. It was really rough, almost like only one cylinder was firing. And the rpm definitely was not steady. I also noticed at times the up/down arrow flicked from discharge to charge and I'm sure I saw the "EV" flick on once.

Either way, fuel pump looks like a good place to start. Haven't done anything yet as it's still been sub freezing. Tomorrow supposed to be in the low 20s in the afternoon. I'll try again in case something was frozen.

[J-Max]

HALLELUJA!!!!!!! Thank you Lord. She runs! First try, it was a tad rough and low rpm(5-600-ish) for a couple seconds and slowly starting picking up rpm to the normal 1500. I waited another 15 seconds and floored it, went up to 2100 (how its always done) and back to 1500 when I let off. Put it in gear and moved it backward and forward a few feet (wife's car is in front). A minute later the rpm fluctuated up and down then went up to 2100 roughly like it was randomly dropping a cylinder then smoothed out and went back to 1500 smoothly, that scenario was maybe 10 seconds. Sat there another 2 minutes, still smooth, HVB already up to 50%. Set the defrost on max but lowest fan speed, to keep the ICE running. Going to let i run a half hour or so, get good and warm. Tomorrow I'll get it scanned. Ate something that didn't agree with me last night, don't feel like doing squat today, almost didn't even go out to try the car but it's warmed up to a balmy 18° so I figured to out.

I'm guessing the problem was fuel related, something iced up or froze and maybe had some air in the lines causing that fluctuating/rough running for a few seconds just now.

[cr08]

Just as a fun little added tidbit. I ran across this post a while back and a cool video to watch to see how these things 'crank' the engine over:

 

 

Per the OP it's a Nissan Altima hybrid which has an eCVT just like ours. Spark plugs are all disconnected there in the video.

 

[Bill-N]

A can of dry gas might help.

 

Cheers