Philips xtreme vision vs crystal ultra vision

[wwwcheng]

Just changed the low beam form Crystal Ultra to xtreme.

 

See photo - driver side is xtreme vision - brighter but the crystal ultra is whiter

 

The bulb at the bottom is xtreme vision.

 

 

 

[drdiesel1]

I've never found any that I've been happy with.

 

All the bulbs that produce a brighter light usually have a much shorter life. I've never had good luck with them in my motorcycles

and quit spending the extra money on a 55 watt bulb pumped up to 75 watts. They don't produce better coverage or light,

and burn out much sooner IMO.

 

I replaced my bulbs with true HID's and have never looked back. They last forever. Have a better, brighter light and don't

have some oddball tint that makes my car look like a Hooptie K-Mart, blue light special :lol:

Edited November 11, 2013 by drdiesel1

[fbov]

The headlight upgrade game was far more fun back in the seal beam days...

 

It's not the extra money for higher wattage bulb that bothers me, it's the burned out ground terminal on the connector. Of course, those were 100W bulbs...

 

IMHO, you're upgrading even if they're not brighter. I know of no rational reason for bluing on a headlamp; high color temperatures have huge disadvantages because blue light scatters. In fog or snow, you see a wall of white, not the road. I've driven many a snow-covered interstate, and the issue isn't traction, it's visibility - seeing the edges of the road through the glare of headlights reflecting in the airborne snow. There's a reason fog lights are yellow (and I drive wearing blu-blockers when it rains).

 

HAve fun,

Frank

[drdiesel1]

The headlight upgrade game was far more fun back in the seal beam days...

 

It's not the extra money for higher wattage bulb that bothers me, it's the burned out ground terminal on the connector. Of course, those were 100W bulbs...

 

IMHO, you're upgrading even if they're not brighter. I know of no rational reason for bluing on a headlamp; high color temperatures have huge disadvantages because blue light scatters. In fog or snow, you see a wall of white, not the road. I've driven many a snow-covered interstate, and the issue isn't traction, it's visibility - seeing the edges of the road through the glare of headlights reflecting in the airborne snow. There's a reason fog lights are yellow (and I drive wearing blu-blockers when it rains).

 

HAve fun,

Frank

I use to drive in the snow 30 years ago. Now it's just dealing with the fog sometimes. Most of the time out here, we need the light to

see far enough ahead to avoid animals at night. HID's with a properly capped bulb are an excellent investment in safety, IMO ;)  YMMV!

[wwwcheng]

xtreme vision is brighter but not whiter. ( 3600K )

 

crystal ultra is whiter but not brighter. ( 4000K )

 

yellow light penetrate better is a fact.

 

many luxury car tends to use hid that is whiter.

 

I do put hid into other cars with projector head light.

 

I avoid using hid in reflector head light to avoid blinding others as I don't want to be blinded. 

 

Pick the right bulb for your driving condition.

[drdiesel1]

xtreme vision is brighter but not whiter. ( 3600K )

 

crystal ultra is whiter but not brighter. ( 4000K )

 

yellow light penetrate better is a fact.

 

many luxury car tends to use hid that is whiter.

 

I do put hid into other cars with projector head light.

 

I avoid using hid in reflector head light to avoid blinding others as I don't want to be blinded. 

 

Pick the right bulb for your driving condition.

This is why I use a capped bulb, just like the factory design. Mine are 6000K.

[ScubaDadMiami]

This is why I use a capped bulb, just like the factory design. Mine are 6000K.

Maybe you can post a step by step on this, with pics.  Do the bulbs still allow both low and high beam operation?

[drdiesel1]

Maybe you can post a step by step on this, with pics.  Do the bulbs still allow both low and high beam operation?

You need two HID pairs to run both hi and low beams.

[ScubaDadMiami]

You need two HID pairs to run both hi and low beams.

Knowing nothing about the subject, I don't know what this means.  Are there two HID pairs in the C-MAX, or can they be easily added during the job?  Are you saying that you don't have both high and low beams?  That would be a deal killer for me, I think.

[drdiesel1]

Knowing nothing about the subject, I don't know what this means.  Are there two HID pairs in the C-MAX, or can they be easily added during the job?  Are you saying that you don't have both high and low beams?  That would be a deal killer for me, I think.

When you buy HID kits, they come with 2 balasts, 2 bulbs and 2 wire harness/plug pigtails. The kit will service the system based on bulb design.

If your bulb design is a 2 bulb system with hi/low in the same bulb, then you only need 1 kit. Our C-Max has 2 separate bulbs.

I pair is for low beam and the other pair is for high beam. We have a total of 4 bulbs. Therefore, you need two kits to have all 4 bulbs converted to HID's.

Otherwise, you can just run the low beams with 1 kit and leave the high beams alone.  It's all based on the vehicles design.

 

Unfortunately, we have 4 separate bulbs and can't get away with 1 set for all :spend:

Edited November 14, 2013 by drdiesel1

[wab]

Knowing nothing about the subject, I don't know what this means.  Are there two HID pairs in the C-MAX, or can they be easily added during the job?  Are you saying that you don't have both high and low beams?  That would be a deal killer for me, I think.

 

Here's another thread.

http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/360-xenon-bi-xenon-hid-headlights/

 

Most people don't use HID's for high beam.

When you flash your high beams the HID's take a few seconds to start so you don't get a flash, if you hold the stalk they just slowly come on.

 

Single bulb systems use Bi-Xenon bulbs, low is HID, high is still a Halogen.

here's a link showing a Halogen H4 and a Bi-Xenon H4

http://www.carlight.nl/images/vragen/bi-dual-xenon_en.gif

[ScubaDadMiami]

How much does this kind of upgrade cost?  I would really like to do this, but I am not auto-mechanically inclined.  Could I do a job like this myself?

 

If anyone would put up the step by step directions, I would go for this option, if I can afford it.  :spend:

[drdiesel1]

Most true HID kits are about 150 bucks for the Digital ballast. I don't buy the cheap kits from Flea Bay.

Edited November 16, 2013 by drdiesel1

[PJFW8]

So Drdiesel, what HID kit did you use?  You bought a capped bulb.  Great idea, but these are not always easy to find. (Great tip on the charger, by the way)

[drdiesel1]

So Drdiesel, what HID kit did you use?  You bought a capped bulb.  Great idea, but these are not always easy to find. (Great tip on the charger, by the way)

I purchased the kit from  https://retro-solutions.net/cart.php?timestamp=1384560855

 

It's the 2012 + kit for the Focus.

It was 190 bucks with the slim line Digital brand ballasts and bulb capping. I only did the low beams.

We have H11 low beam and H1 high beam bulbs.

 

Glad you like the charger. It's the best cheap charger I've owned. Mines over 2 years old and I use it all the time.

For 45 bucks, you can't beat it.

Edited November 16, 2013 by drdiesel1

[PJFW8]

Thanks.  Retro Solutions has a good reputation.  I'm curious about capping.  I understand why it is needed in the factory reflector headlight. Does the OEM cap come out when the halogen bulb is removed? If not, why would the hid bulb need a cap?  Also, 35 watt or 55?  35 should be plenty for light output, but some like 55 since it is the same as the halogen bulb and may avoid a "bulb out warning".

[drdiesel1]

Thanks.  Retro Solutions has a good reputation.  I'm curious about capping.  I understand why it is needed in the factory reflector headlight. Does the OEM cap come out when the halogen bulb is removed? If not, why would the hid bulb need a cap?  Also, 35 watt or 55?  35 should be plenty for light output, but some like 55 since it is the same as the halogen bulb and may avoid a "bulb out warning".

The capping is built into the bulb. I always cap my HID's because I've never seen an OE bulb that's not capped. I run the 55 watt bulbs for better light. This system is designed for this headlamp controll system. That's why you order the 2012 + Focus application.

 

Retro Solutions has the best brand (Digital) ballasts and the kit has a lifetime warranty. The Digital ballasts have the slim option and are very small and water proof. I use them on my motorcycle too.  Great kits and no junk.

Edited November 16, 2013 by drdiesel1

[wab]

Thanks.  Retro Solutions has a good reputation.  I'm curious about capping.  I understand why it is needed in the factory reflector headlight. Does the OEM cap come out when the halogen bulb is removed? If not, why would the hid bulb need a cap?  Also, 35 watt or 55?  35 should be plenty for light output, but some like 55 since it is the same as the halogen bulb and may avoid a "bulb out warning".

 

Retro Solutions is a good co. I've used 2 of their kits.

 

Send them an email about capping. sales@retro-solutions.com

I copied this from their web site.

"where bulb covers are not built into vehicle's lamps"

Our bulb covers are built in.

http://retro-solutions.net/product-info.php?Bulb_Capping-pid628.html

 

　

I used a 50 watt system in our 08 MKX (projectors with capped bulbs)  because of the "bulb out" problem.

They were MUCH TOO BRIGHT, the bulb out problem has been solved.

I copied this from their web site.

http://retro-solutions.net/cmspage.php?page_id=12#4

scroll down to

"Do I need a wiring harness?

There are however a few exceptions to the rule, and these will generally be vehicle specific. Some vehicles with daytime running lamps, "auto" lamps, "bulb-out" indicators, and/or pulsed voltage systems (PWM) will need a harness or other add-ons to avoid problems with proper operation."

 

One other thing to consider is Bulb Color. 5000K and 6000k are "white" colors

4300K and down will be yellow

8000K and up will be blue.

go here

http://retro-solutions.net/product-info.php?35W_DIGITAL_HID_BULBS-pid670.html

and here

http://retro-solutions.net/avactis-images/Bulbcolorlistdigital_0.jpg

[ScubaDadMiami]

Which color did you select?  I like either the 5,000K or 6,000K colors.  I don't care about how it looks to others; I am interested in having the best night vision possible.

 

Regarding the harness, is that the $22 item for "Vehicle Application?"

 

How much would an installer charge for something like this job?  Otherwise, where can I find the step by step directions?  I am fine with tools, but I don't know anything about cars or electronics.  Also, I understand that this is a pretty tight fit.

 

Doing this won't void the warranty?  I purchased the Extended Warranty.  So, I am not looking for issues, should I ever need to use it.

Edited November 16, 2013 by ScubaDadMiami

[wab]

Take a look at these links.

http://www.hidkitwarehouse.com/pages/installation

 

http://www.amazon.com/Kensun-Conversion-Colors-Premium-Ballasts/dp/B004ZF3IT6/ref=au_pf_ss_13?ie=UTF8&Make=Ford%7C54&Model=C-Max%7C21616&Year=2013%7C2013&carId=001&n=15684181&s=automotive

 

6000K has just a hint of blue

5000K is going to be whiter

 

The only wire harness we would need is the "HID Warning Canceler" $25.99   I THINK, everything else should be in the kit.

 

I would hope that you could get them installed for 1 hr labor. Contact their installer in Jacksonville.

Business: First Coast Diesel Performance
Location: Jacksonville, FL
EMAIL: Abrannan19@aol.com
TELE: (904) 813-5067
Specialists: in installation of truck lighting and performance parts

 

The instructions are pretty basic.

Something like this.

 

1. Take the headlight out, if needed. we would.

2. Take the Halogen bulb out of the headlight.

3. Put the HID bulb in the headlight.

4. Mount the ballasts. looks like there is plenty of room on both sides.

5. Plug the connector's together, plug and play

6. Hook up the 12V and ground. EASY on the cmax

7. Test.

8. Reinstall headlights.

 

Probably took me longer to type this and look up the links.

 

wab

 

[drdiesel1]

The Retro Solutions kit for the Ford Focus, 2012 + is "the complete kit" nothing else to buy.  Just choose the slim ballasts and

bulb capping.  I know our cars have a bulb cover inside, but I still use the cap on the bulb, just like the OE bulb has.

[PJFW8]

Thanks!  I looked more closely. Capped is the way to go!

[bigalpha]

So are our headlight housings appropriate for HIDs?  Is that what the capped bulbs are for?

[wab]

I picked this supplier at random.

From their FAQ.

http://www.xenonheadlights.net/pages_contents/show/id/8#q11

 

Are these HID light systems street legal?

 

Every jurisdiction has its own rules and regulations governing the use of automotive lighting. HID lighting systems that are supplied with the vehicles from the factory are DOT approved.

NO HID conversion kit available from any source is DOT approved if installed outside of the factory. Moreover, in the U.S, this is not street legal for use on public roads. As a result, we officially endorse the kit for exhibition, shows and off-road use and will only sell the kit to be used for these purposes. We are not responsible for buyers who violate the terms of sale while in which they will assume all responsibilities for any unauthorized or unintended use other than exhibition or off-road use.

 

wab

[bigalpha]

That's very interesting, I didn't know that.