Brake Rottors strange wear pattern

[David Toth]

I have this strange wear pattern on my. Rotors does anyone has the same problem

Please see the pictures and tell me if this is normal. Dealer said this is normal Is it? They say not to be worry about it because my car breaks with the engine. Most of the time

 

 

First 2 are rear rotors left and right

Second 2 are front rotors left and right

Edited July 24, 2014 by David Toth

[fotomoto]

I agree that this is normal..........for a hybrid that employs regenerative braking.   The rear two discs really haven't been used yet!  LOL  The fronts haven't fully completed break-in either.   I assume your brake scores are high.   Efficient hybrid drivers report getting well over 100k miles on the front rotors and pads.  :shift:

[fbov]

I've seen this on conventional drivetrains. I think it's due to use of soft pads, that don't wear the disk so much as they wear themselves. If you want, try braking hard for a while, scores of 25% and less, and see if the added mechanical braking changes the pattern. At most, I'd expect the outer speckled pattern to war off to something more like the inner circumferential marks.

 

HAve fun,

Frank

[wab]

Here's a good resource.

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=85

 

"Bedding-in new pads and rotors should be done carefully and slowly. Rapid heat build up in the brake system can lead to warped rotors and or glazed brake pads. Most brake pad compounds will take up to 300-400 miles to fully develop an even transfer film on the rotors. Following are the recommended bed-in procedures from each manufacturer:

AKEBONO

400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.

ATE

400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.

BREMBO Gran Turismo

In a safe area, apply brakes moderately from 60mph to 30mph and then drive approximately 1/2 mile to allow the brakes to cool. Repeat this procedure approximately 30 times.

HAWK

After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete.

NOTE: Hawk racing pads (Blue, Black, HT-10, HT-12) may require a different bed-in procedure. Contact your sales specialists at the Tire Rack for racing application information.

POWER SLOT

Follow the brake pad manufacturer's recommended break-in procedure taking care not to produce excessive heat in the system. Avoid heavy braking for the first 400-500 miles." 

 

This will kill your brake score BUT the longer it takes to break in your brakes  is that much more opportunity to have an accident

(if I could have just got stopped a couple of feet sooner...OH WELL!) 

[mitrals]

I have the same thing going on with my car. However I got 75K miles on the original pads and rotors. Front pads seem to have about 60% life left and rears have 40%. I will try some spirited braking and hope this goes away. I know I am bringing up a thread that is over an year old and wanted to see what other members are seeing!

[cwstnsko]

Rather than braking dramatically to get the friction brakes to engage, shift into neutral when approaching lights etc. This will disable regenerative braking and allow you to use the friction brakes in a manner similar to a normal ICE vehicle.  I usually do this for a few stops from speed when the surface rust due to lack of use accumulates and starts to make the brakes sound rough.

[ptjones]

With 135k miles on my rotors look pretty new, I do have a brake score of 98%.  To me it looks like rust. :headscratch:

 

Paul

[cmax-nynj]

My brakes look the same as the ones shown in Post #1, braking performance is still excellent and I use Mechanical brake once in a while with tranny in Neurtral. You've got a good dealer because my local dealer gave me a lot of BS about it and wanted me to change the pads and rotors for a lot of money

Edited July 28, 2016 by cmax-nynj

[ptjones]

I still think if you drive the car like a hybrid you should never have to replace the brakes. IMO  I do have a 98% LifeTime brake score which I'm sure helps. :)

 

Paul

[cmax-nynj]

I agree but I can't tell if the rear brakes engage during regenerative braking.

[fbov]

This rust will be much more common in colder parts of the country that use road salt to treat roadways, especially if you're getting good regen braking scores. 

 

And I like the way cwstnsko is thinking, and I know where I can implement it on a regular basis to maintain a little brake wear. Thanks!

 

Have fun,

Frank

[ptjones]

I think you use all brakes 5mph and slower and maybe rears  going faster when not getting a perfect brake score. :) 

 

Paul 

[pad]

My brakes look the same as the ones shown in Post #1, braking performance is still excellent and I use Mechanical brake once in a while with tranny in Neurtral. You've got a good dealer because my local dealer gave me a lot of BS about it and wanted me to change the pads and rotors for a lot of money

My dealership quoted me over 1000$CAD to change all four rotors and pads because pads were worn and rotors rusty on my 2013 C-Max with 35K km on the odometer!

 

I asked a mechanic friend to check it out. On the front, the inside face of the rotors were OK but the outside face showed a pattern similar to the photos in the post above. New pads and cleaning should do the trick.

 

In the back it appears that both sides are quite rusty as it seems they have hardly been used probably because of regen braking. In addition, one and possibly both caliper pistons are seized.

 

I do not drive much and I admit that I have not engaged in "friction" braking to any extent. Does anyone know whether Ford recommends procedures to alleviate the minimal use of such braking with hybrids? And also whether dealerships are told to be on the lookout for this problem when they do regular maintenance?

 

Thanks

[stolenmoment]

Since regen is turned off when in N, you can shift to N at the top of a hill and glide down with gentle brakes.  That should scrub off the rust.

[ptjones]

Since regen is turned off when in N, you can shift to N at the top of a hill and glide down with gentle brakes.  That should scrub off the rust.

Yes, just waist of electrons/gas. :)

 

Paul

[stolenmoment]

Well, if you want to clean your brakes, how else?  You can do multiple hard stops, but that tends to upset those behind you, far more than braking down a hill.  ;-)

[ptjones]

Well, if you want to clean your brakes, how else?  You can do multiple hard stops, but that tends to upset those behind you, far more than braking down a hill.  ;-)

I guess a poor attempt at being funny.  That's seems reasonable to me, I wouldn't go out of my way to do it, but if I was going downhill I'd do it. :)  You could also do it using Neutral for stopping at stop lights/signs during your regular driving, it shouldn't take much and it doesn't need to be perfect. Good Luck.  :)

 

Paul

[plus 3 golfer]

Well, if you want to clean your brakes, how else?  You can do multiple hard stops, but that tends to upset those behind you, far more than braking down a hill.  ;-)

 

 

Yes, just waist of electrons/gas. :)

 

Paul

How else? I just let my wife drive the car and waist electrons/gas.  ;)  :)  No problems yet with rotors in about 78 k miles.

Edited October 17, 2016 by Plus 3 Golfer

[markd]

Any of you remember backing up and hitting the brakes to adjust them?

[markd]

Any of you remember backing up and hitting the brakes to adjust them?

[ptjones]

Any of you remember backing up and hitting the brakes to adjust them?

Yes, That was for Drum Brakes. :)

 

Paul

[Bill-N]

Any of you remember backing up and hitting the brakes to adjust them?

 

Yep.  And the real surprise came when going forward and the brakes engaged much sooner!

[markd]

I've never paid anyone to put brakes on a car and see no reason to change now. I started doing brake jobs when I was thirteen, the easiest car repair.

[fbov]

Looking into this, there's a reason...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_brakeforce_distribution

http://www.aa1car.com/library/brake_balance.htm

"On vehicles with electronic brake proportioning, the REAR brakes may actually wear out faster than the front brakes...."

 

Rear brake wear is one downside to regen in a car with full electronic wheel control. Note the links refer to conventional drivetrains. Regen only makes it worse. 

 

I think this also explains that feeling the brakes failed as you enter a turn. It's gone now that the back brakes are working properly. 

 

Have fun,

Frank

[scottwood2]

Just took the car in for a list of concerns.   Getting close to the end of standard warranty ~33k miles.   One issue i stated was minor brake noise on the right rear in the morning while driving (no brakes applied).   This was really minor but thought I would put it down on the list to have it looked at.   They ended up resurfacing the rotors in the rear.  Said I had lots of pad left.