Stop Safely Now Warning

[Karl33]

This morning, after having driven my 2015 C-Max Hybrid for approximately 6 months, upon attempting to start my car, the stop safely now warning popped up. The car was running in EV Mode, but would not move. I attempted to shut if off to no avail. After about 5 minutes, I could turn it off, and reattempted starting it, to get the same exact results. After about another 20 minutes, I tried again and it started fine and drove, although I worried about it and parked it, taking another car to work. Searching the internet gives me several problems that it could be and I have not tried calling my dealer to have it checked and taking it there involves a long drive. Would buying an OBD-II reader give me a better way to find out what the problem could be? Do I need a specific model of ODB reader to work with the C-Max? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[plus 3 golfer]

This morning, after having driven my 2015 C-Max Hybrid for approximately 6 months, upon attempting to start my car, the stop safely now warning popped up. The car was running in EV Mode, but would not move. I attempted to shut if off to no avail. After about 5 minutes, I could turn it off, and reattempted starting it, to get the same exact results. After about another 20 minutes, I tried again and it started fine and drove, although I worried about it and parked it, taking another car to work. Searching the internet gives me several problems that it could be and I have not tried calling my dealer to have it checked and taking it there involves a long drive. Would buying an OBD-II reader give me a better way to find out what the problem could be? Do I need a specific model of ODB reader to work with the C-Max? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Get the ForScan App for a smartphone and an ELM327 adapter (total cost excluding smartphone should be less than $30).  There are Ford specific codes and modules that a generic OBDII reader may likely not scan. 

[Karl33]

Will this scanner work with iPhone? Several reviews say it doesn't.

[Julia16]

I just had the same thing happen to me, except it was while I was driving.  It was towed into the dealership (Fritts) Thursday morning and released to me, supposedly fixed Friday afternoon.  Tech documents said they couldn't replicate the problem and they did a TSB on the wiring.  So, before I even drove 10 miles, it happened again and now I am waiting for the dealership to open.  Has this happened to others?  It won't drive while it's in gear and gives the STOP SAFELY NOW warning.  

[obob]

https://www.google.com/search?hl=&site=&q=fordcmaxhybridforum.com+Stop+Safely+Now

 

(sorry, I didn't realize it was an older message thread)

Edited September 23, 2017 by obob

[ptjones]

Can't do anything without the Codes to see what's  wrong. :sad:  There are many possibilities. 

 

Paul

[plus 3 golfer]

I just had the same thing happen to me, except it was while I was driving.  It was towed into the dealership (Fritts) Thursday morning and released to me, supposedly fixed Friday afternoon.  Tech documents said they couldn't replicate the problem and they did a TSB on the wiring.  So, before I even drove 10 miles, it happened again and now I am waiting for the dealership to open.  Has this happened to others?  It won't drive while it's in gear and gives the STOP SAFELY NOW warning.  

You need to provide for info.  What does the service order say the problem was?  The dealer should have listed Diagnostic Trouble Codes on the SO.  For example, a DTC would be letters and numbers and should have a description like: TCM (transmission control module) no communication.  

 

If it happens again, you might want to disconnect the 12 V battery for a minute or so and see if the car will then drive after you reconnect it.  There is a negative ground bolt located beneath the rear hatch storage compartment.  Lift the lid of the storage compartment and pull out the bottom cover of the right comparment exposing the negative terminal bolt and positve 12 V battery terminal. Remove the bolt and lift the cable up so it doesn't touch ground.   Doing this might reset all the modules allowing the car to be driven (at least back to the dealer).

[16redsel]

Plus three:

   I just happened to read this and i don't understand your reply. I have a 2016 SEL Hybrid. The 12V battery is under the hood, not the hatch, and

the negative ground post/bolt/connection for the 12V battery is also under the hood in front of the battery. ???

[plus 3 golfer]

Plus three:

   I just happened to read this and i don't understand your reply. I have a 2016 SEL Hybrid. The 12V battery is under the hood, not the hatch, and

the negative ground post/bolt/connection for the 12V battery is also under the hood in front of the battery. ???

https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2013_Ford_C-Max_Hybrid_SEL_2.0L_4_Cyl./battery/replace_battery

[bev135]

Ack!  I had this happen last night.

When I tried to start the car, it wouldn't go into "ready to drive".  After a few seconds, the Stop Safely Now warning came up.

I tried over and over. 

It seems like the car didn't know it was in Park -- it thought that I was driving and was suddenly in "accessory" mode.

I got a ride home and I guess will have to have the car towed later.  Or maybe wait until Monday.

[ptjones]

Ack!  I had this happen last night.

When I tried to start the car, it wouldn't go into "ready to drive".  After a few seconds, the Stop Safely Now warning came up.

I tried over and over. 

It seems like the car didn't know it was in Park -- it thought that I was driving and was suddenly in "accessory" mode.

I got a ride home and I guess will have to have the car towed later.  Or maybe wait until Monday.

Do you have a CMAX? And what year is it.? :headscratch:

 

Paul

[16redsel]

Plus3,

   You're right. I can't believe what i assumed was the 12V batt. was actually the fuse box. You

can see that there is a covered Pos. terminal and a Ground post right in front of the box. You access

battery voltage here but the batt. IS inside the hatch.

[bev135]

Hmmm... thought I replied to this earlier but I don't see it now.

I have a 2014 CMax Energi.

It's at the dealer now.  They called yesterday to say that its "an electrical problem" -- they were working on a diagnosis but it was difficult.  Their troubleshooting manuals weren't matching with what they were seeing in the car so they have to go back and forth with a Ford service hotline.

This is NOT giving me lots of confidence!

Maxine's warranty expired 6 mos ago and I sure hope they don't plan to bill me for all these hours of labor!  I'll assume for now that it'll all work out just fine.

Sure hope they can come up with something definitive!

[ptjones]

How many miles do you have on the car.  Bottom line is whether or not it is a Hybrid System problem or not. :headscratch:   Hybrid System warranty is 8yrs/100k mi.  Is your FORD Dealer a Electric dealer? You might update your CMAX info. :)

 

Paul

[bev135]

I just heard from the dealer.  Two modules failed.  One that controls coolant heating for the heater when the engine isn't running.  That led to a failure of the charging control from the big battery.  I can't remember the exact names of things because I totally freaked out when they gave me the total -- $3,400!

Hey, you know those ARE related to the hybrid-ness of the car... maybe I can get these guys to use that warranty.  I was thinking it was just the hybrid battery that had the longer warranty but if it's the entire hybrid system, I have a chance.

Oh, they've had the car since Monday and are now predicting it will be ready to go NEXT Friday.

I am not impressed.

Guess I should've gone to the inconvenient dealer (about 10 miles away) that is Electric Vehicle Certified instead of the convenient dealer (about 3 miles) that is not.

[ptjones]

I just heard from the dealer.  Two modules failed.  One that controls coolant heating for the heater when the engine isn't running.  That led to a failure of the charging control from the big battery.  I can't remember the exact names of things because I totally freaked out when they gave me the total -- $3,400!

Hey, you know those ARE related to the hybrid-ness of the car... maybe I can get these guys to use that warranty.  I was thinking it was just the hybrid battery that had the longer warranty but if it's the entire hybrid system, I have a chance.

Oh, they've had the car since Monday and are now predicting it will be ready to go NEXT Friday.

I am not impressed.

Guess I should've gone to the inconvenient dealer (about 10 miles away) that is Electric Vehicle Certified instead of the convenient dealer (about 3 miles) that is not.

Dealers can make a Big Difference!  Awhile back I think someone posted a list of things covered be Hybrid Warranty and there should be a warranty pamphlet in with your Owners Manual that list them.  That seems like a lot of money to me. :sad: Good Luck. :) 

 

Paul 

[obob]

I just heard from the dealer.  Two modules failed.  One that controls coolant heating for the heater when the engine isn't running.  That led to a failure of the charging control from the big battery.  I can't remember the exact names of things because I totally freaked out when they gave me the total -- $3,400!

Hey, you know those ARE related to the hybrid-ness of the car... maybe I can get these guys to use that warranty.  I was thinking it was just the hybrid battery that had the longer warranty but if it's the entire hybrid system, I have a chance.

Oh, they've had the car since Monday and are now predicting it will be ready to go NEXT Friday.

I am not impressed.

Guess I should've gone to the inconvenient dealer (about 10 miles away) that is Electric Vehicle Certified instead of the convenient dealer (about 3 miles) that is not.

 

It sounds like you have committed to that dealer, but this sure sounds like something that would be worth a second opinion.

 

This may sound trite but I feel pain reading this.  I personally bought the longest extended warranty to avoid this for a few more years, though that probably is not an option for this.  (By the way, there is a message thread on this site that has the name of a dealer that sells the warranty at a discount, though as I recall, the car needs to be under warranty or there may be some inspection needed or something.  That is where I got the info to buy my extended warranty from http://andersonandkoch-ford-warranty.com/minimally getting a quote from these guys will give you pricing leverage getting one from a dealer.)

 

You might consider writing Ford if you haven't committed to this dealer.  That sounds outrageous.

Edited October 13, 2017 by obob

[plus 3 golfer]

I just heard from the dealer.  Two modules failed.  One that controls coolant heating for the heater when the engine isn't running.  That led to a failure of the charging control from the big battery.  I can't remember the exact names of things because I totally freaked out when they gave me the total -- $3,400!

Hey, you know those ARE related to the hybrid-ness of the car... maybe I can get these guys to use that warranty.  I was thinking it was just the hybrid battery that had the longer warranty but if it's the entire hybrid system, I have a chance.

Oh, they've had the car since Monday and are now predicting it will be ready to go NEXT Friday.

I am not impressed.

Guess I should've gone to the inconvenient dealer (about 10 miles away) that is Electric Vehicle Certified instead of the convenient dealer (about 3 miles) that is not.

Based on your description it is likely two of these three modules: SOBDCM (hybrid control module like the PCM and controls the cabin aux. heater for the Energi), SOBDM (controls the charging of the HVB), and the BECM (Battery Energy Control Module used to determine charging state, set points and so forth).  My guess is that you have about $2000 in the two control modules and based on your description of the modules the first two modules listed (not the BECM) failed.   The rest of the $3400 should be labor including diagnostics, installation, programming, and testing.  If not covered under warranty, dealer may be able to get the modules from a salvage yard for significantly less (maybe $1500 less).  The warranty on the salvaged parts is likely only 90 days and IIRC, should be 2 years on new dealer installed parts.

 

Below is what the Hybrid warranty shows is covered which includes the highligted in red BECM but not the other two modules.

 

(4) Your vehicle’s unique hybrid / electric components are covered during the Hybrid / Electric Unique Component Coverage, which lasts for eight years or 100,000 miles, whichever occurs first. • The following hybrid parts are covered during this extended coverage period: high-voltage battery, hybrid continuously variable transmission, Inverter System Controller (ISC), DC/DC converter, high-voltage battery connector, battery pack fan assembly, thermistor probe, Hybrid Battery Pack Sensor Module (HBPSM), Battery Energy Control Module (BECM), and the PHEV onboard charger. • The following Focus Electric unique parts are covered during this extended coverage period: high-voltage battery packs, high voltage charger, DC/DC convertor, Electric Drive Module Assembly (includes electric motor and gearbox), trans range and charge cord.

[bev135]

The dealer is telling me that one module -- the one that controls the heater -- is NOT covered by the Hybrid System 8/100k warranty.  The other module WOULD be covered except that its failure was caused by the first one that was not covered.

That doesn't make any sense to me!

Does the warranty specify the CAUSE of the failure???

I've got to learn the exact names of these modules so I can talk about it more clearly.  And Ford will be hearing from me -- this is nonsense!

[plus 3 golfer]

Generally, the failure of a covered part whose failure was caused by a non-covered part is NOT covered.  The real issue is it is very hard to dispute the dealer's word on what caused the covered part to fail.  How does an owner know which module failed first? or even if there is a causal relationship between the failed parts.

 

I would question the dealer as to how they know which module failed first and how they determined that the covered module didn't cause the non-covered module to fail.  If you can't get satisfaction from the dealer, open a case with Ford.  I would argue that each module is independent and operates based on data exchange over the Control Area Networks and thus it would be virtually impossible for one module failure to cause another to fail as each module should have internal checks on data and fail safe operation.

 

Also, get a breakdown on the $3400 along with the exact modules that are to be replaced.  Hopefully, you can get Ford to pick up the majority of the cost.  Also, the dealer is likely billing their labor rates not the rate Ford pays them.  Big city Ford dealers' hourly rates are likely low 3 digits. You may have to pay something, but $3400 seems very high.

Edited October 19, 2017 by Plus 3 Golfer

[SnowStorm]

Turned car on today (not first time) and got the SSN warning (though sitting still in the driveway) and messages about engine overheat, see manual, service advancetrac, maybe something else.  Turned car off and back on and everything was fine.  Have driven 250 miles since then and on/off several times. I didn't try and drive when the messages were active.  The DTCs from Forscan are below (other modules had no DTCs).  At least one DTC may have been there before this happened.  Does anyone have any ideas about this event?  Its rather disturbing - sounds a lot like this topic on the Energi forum.

 

===SOBDMC DTC U0155:00-28===
Code: U0155 - Lost Communication With Instrument Panel Cluster Control Module
 
Status:  
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC
 
Module: Secondary OBD Control Module C
 
 Freeze Frame :
-REALTIME: 159989319 sec - Total time ECU has been active
-TOT_DIST: 250913.0 km - Total Vehicle Distance
-MAINPCM_V: 15.00 Volt - Control Module Voltage
-OUTDR_TMP: 18 °C - Outdoor Air Temperature
-ENG_TQ: 0.0 Nm - Engine Torque
-PRNDL_T: P  - Shift Position
-TFT: 26 °C - Transmission Fluid Temperature
-M_SPEED: 0 rev/min - Motor Speed
-GTQ_CMD: 0.0 Nm - Generator Torque Command
-MTQ_CMD: 0.0 Nm - Motor Torque Command
-M_INV_V: 277.30 Volt - Motor Inverter Voltage
-G_PHTMP: 31 °C - Generator Inverter Phase Temperature
-MCLTEMP: 28 °C - Motor Coil Temperature
-GCLTEMP: 27 °C - Generator Coil Temperature
-G_SPEED: 0 rev/min - Generator Speed
-TQ_DSD: 0.0 Nm - Desired Total Torque
-M_PHTMP: 32 °C - Motor Inverter Phase Temperature
-VEHMODE: Driving  - Vehicle Control Mode
-ECU_ONTIME: 3 min - Module On Time since Key On or Reset
-ECT: 41 °C - Engine coolant temperature
-CTO: 0 rev/min - Tachometer signal output
-HV_AMP: 2.90 Amper - High Voltage Battery Current
-HVBAT_V: 278.00 Volt - High Voltage Battery Voltage
-APP: 0.00 % - Accelerator Pedal Position
-VPWR: 14.24 Volt - Control Module Voltage
-VS: 0.0 km/h - Vehicle Speed
===END SOBDMC DTC U0155:00-28===
 
===SOBDMC DTC U016A:00-28===
Code: U016A - Lost Communication With Global Positioning System Module Range/Performance
 
Status:  
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC
 
Module: Secondary OBD Control Module C
 
 Freeze Frame :
-REALTIME: 159989323 sec - Total time ECU has been active
-TOT_DIST: 250913.0 km - Total Vehicle Distance
-MAINPCM_V: 15.00 Volt - Control Module Voltage
-OUTDR_TMP: 18 °C - Outdoor Air Temperature
-ENG_TQ: -1.2 Nm - Engine Torque
-PRNDL_T: D  - Shift Position
-TFT: 26 °C - Transmission Fluid Temperature
-M_SPEED: -3 rev/min - Motor Speed
-GTQ_CMD: 0.0 Nm - Generator Torque Command
-MTQ_CMD: 7.1 Nm - Motor Torque Command
-M_INV_V: 276.90 Volt - Motor Inverter Voltage
-G_PHTMP: 31 °C - Generator Inverter Phase Temperature
-MCLTEMP: 28 °C - Motor Coil Temperature
-GCLTEMP: 27 °C - Generator Coil Temperature
-G_SPEED: 2 rev/min - Generator Speed
-TQ_DSD: 63.0 Nm - Desired Total Torque
-M_PHTMP: 33 °C - Motor Inverter Phase Temperature
-VEHMODE: Driving  - Vehicle Control Mode
-ECU_ONTIME: 7 min - Module On Time since Key On or Reset
-ECT: 40 °C - Engine coolant temperature
-CTO: 0 rev/min - Tachometer signal output
-HV_AMP: 3.20 Amper - High Voltage Battery Current
-HVBAT_V: 277.50 Volt - High Voltage Battery Voltage
-APP: 0.00 % - Accelerator Pedal Position
-VPWR: 14.24 Volt - Control Module Voltage
-VS: 0.3 km/h - Vehicle Speed
===END SOBDMC DTC U016A:00-28===
 
===BECM DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found
 
Module: Battery Energy Control Module
 
===END BECM DTC None===
 
===PCM DTC U0155:00-28===
Code: U0155 - Lost Communication With Instrument Panel Cluster Control Module
 
Status:  
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC
 
Module: Powertrain Control Module
 
===END PCM DTC U0155:00-28===
 
===OBDII DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found
 
Module: On Board Diagnostic II
 
===END OBDII DTC None===
 
===APIM DTC U0423:00-28===
Code: U0423 - Invalid Data Received From IPC
 
Status:  
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC
 
Module: Accessory Protocol Interface Module
 
===END APIM DTC U0423:00-28===

[ptjones]

Total miles is 250K miles?  I didn't think you had that many miles. :headscratch:

 

Paul

[cr08]

It's noted in kilometres which comes up to roughly 155k miles.