Transmission to be replaced - have a question

[Catmobile]

Right on schedule :( my 2013 needs to have the transmission replaced. Dealership says they can't do it until next week but they told me it's OK to drive for now. Should I get a rental anyway? I live 30 mi. out from work, don't want to get stranded in this heat. Ford should have done a recall and replaced them!

 

BTW, I have an extended warranty, best thing I ever did. I've already had to have my backup camera replaced after it developed a short, and now this. Sucks because I love Miss Pearl and was thinking of getting a used 2018 in a couple of years, but now I'm not sure I want another one. I'm getting 45 mpg with 188 hp, can't really find that anywhere else!

 

 

 

[Zathrus]

You should be OK. When my transmission was replaced last Oct (due to grinding and thumping noise), I drove vehicle for about 3 weeks (about 2K mi) til dealer was able to get replacement transmission. Also, it appears very few transmissions on CMax have failed in a way that prevents driving...the grinding/thumping noises just get louder.

[ptjones]

Right on schedule :( my 2013 needs to have the transmission replaced. Dealership says they can't do it until next week but they told me it's OK to drive for now. Should I get a rental anyway? I live 30 mi. out from work, don't want to get stranded in this heat. Ford should have done a recall and replaced them!

 

BTW, I have an extended warranty, best thing I ever did. I've already had to have my backup camera replaced after it developed a short, and now this. Sucks because I love Miss Pearl and was thinking of getting a used 2018 in a couple of years, but now I'm not sure I want another one. I'm getting 45 mpg with 188 hp, can't really find that anywhere else!

I don't see a problem here, they are going to replace it and you will have a brand new trans, that's a good thing. :) I think I drove 1k miles will it was making noise. I don't think anyone has stopped with a broken trans.  I have 104k mi. on my brand new trans and no problems yet. :)

Paul

[Catmobile]

Thanks for the responses. ☺

[ptjones]

Thanks for the responses. ☺

:) Paul

[jestevens]

I hear you all describing this as a grinding/thumping noise, so the high pitched whine I'm starting to hear occasionally when the car is quiet is more likely something to do with the ANC than with the transmission?  85K mi on original transmission so far, mostly around town miles.

[Zathrus]

I hear you all describing this as a grinding/thumping noise, so the high pitched whine I'm starting to hear occasionally when the car is quiet is more likely something to do with the ANC than with the transmission?  85K mi on original transmission so far, mostly around town miles.

 

In my case, it was not a high frequency noise. It was a low frequency metallic rubbing/grinding noise as described in TSB 17-0039 (see attached).

 

Search for posts on this forum how to disable ANC by pulling a fuse. You can try that to isolate if high frequency is due to ANC.

 

I suspect you may have some other issue. Perhaps bad wheel bearing or the electric AC compressor motor? 

TSB 17-0039 HF35 TRANSMISSION - THUMPING RUBBING OR GRINDING NOISE.pdf

Edited July 5, 2018 by Zathrus

[ptjones]

If you put it in neutral when you are rolling around it should go away. :) 

 

Paul 

[Adrian_L]

Our C-max has done 50,000 miles.  On Saturday, I noticed a slight 'shuddering' from somewhere under the engine during the first 10 minutes of driving.   The engine light has been on for unrelated issues (restraint module and GPS) but it started flashing.    After 10 minutes everything was normal and the problem hasn't returned.

 

I'm taking it in to the dealer on Thursday, but has anyone else noticed a similar problem?   The shuddering seemed to only happen when the ICE englne was running.

[ptjones]

I would try a good fuel injector cleaner to start with, cheap and easy to do. It will take probably half to full tank to solve that problem. :)

 

Paul

[pomtrey]

Our C-max has done 50,000 miles. On Saturday, I noticed a slight 'shuddering' from somewhere under the engine during the first 10 minutes of driving. The engine light has been on for unrelated issues (restraint module and GPS) but it started flashing. After 10 minutes everything was normal and the problem hasn't returned.

 

I'm taking it in to the dealer on Thursday, but has anyone else noticed a similar problem? The shuddering seemed to only happen when the ICE englne was running.

[pomtrey]

Our C-max has done 50,000 miles. On Saturday, I noticed a slight 'shuddering' from somewhere under the engine during the first 10 minutes of driving. The engine light has been on for unrelated issues (restraint module and GPS) but it started flashing. After 10 minutes everything was normal and the problem hasn't returned.

 

I'm taking it in to the dealer on Thursday, but has anyone else noticed a similar problem? The shuddering seemed to only happen when the ICE englne was running.

[pomtrey]

Our 2013 has 48,000 miles and last week the engine light was flashing and as I was driving home it started to shudder. By the time I got home the light was on steady. The next morning we had it towed to the dealer. Their diagnostic said it was a failed fuel injector. They replaced it and the car has been great. Until today. The engine light started flashing again so it’s going back in tomorrow. Hope it’s not a bigger problem. We absolutely love this car—the mileage, the power and the comfort are all great. Luckily we bought the extended warranty so we’re pretty well covered in that respect.

[ptjones]

Maybe another injector. :headscratch:

 

Paul

[pomtrey]

Our 2013 has 48,000 miles and last week the engine light was flashing and as I was driving home it started to shudder. By the time I got home the light was on steady. The next morning we had it towed to the dealer. Their diagnostic said it was a failed fuel injector. They replaced it and the car has been great. Until today. The engine light started flashing again so it’s going back in tomorrow. Hope it’s not a bigger problem. We absolutely love this car—the mileage, the power and the comfort are all great. Luckily we bought the extended warranty so we’re pretty well covered in that respect.

[pomtrey]

Indeed it was injector #2 this time. They are going

to replace #1&3 also. So we’ll have all new injectors!

 

I want to know however what caused the failure and how to prevent it. We always use top tier gas. Should we now start to use fuel injector cleaner anyhow? Is there another explanation for the injectors failing, essentially all at the same time?

[ptjones]

Maybe once a year, you don't have many miles for a 5+ year old car. :)

 

Paul

[obob]

Indeed it was injector #2 this time. They are going

to replace #1&3 also. So we’ll have all new injectors!

 

I want to know however what caused the failure and how to prevent it. We always use top tier gas. Should we now start to use fuel injector cleaner anyhow? Is there another explanation for the injectors failing, essentially all at the same time?

 

It would be good to get the old injector and see why it failed.  

 

What came to mind was manufacturer defects and dirty gas.

 

Here's a thread on the injectors: http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/4791-fuel-injector-failure-every-37000-miles/page-4

Edited August 7, 2018 by obob

[SnowStorm]

Indeed it was injector #2 this time. They are going

to replace #1&3 also. So we’ll have all new injectors!

 

I want to know however what caused the failure and how to prevent it. We always use top tier gas. Should we now start to use fuel injector cleaner anyhow? Is there another explanation for the injectors failing, essentially all at the same time?

Possible injector problems is one reason I have always used ethanol free gasoline.  Of course I don't know why yours failed.

[plus 3 golfer]

Ethanol in gas does not cause injector failure. It's the water in gas that is the issue. Gas additives include demulsifiers which cause the water to separate out of the pure gas.  Water will settle to the bottom of the storage tanks at the distribution facilities.  Ethanol and pure gas is then blended into the tanker trucks for delivery.  Thus, there should be virtually no water in the E10 delivered to the retail stations.  However, ethanol is hygroscopic and will absorb water and perhaps too much if left in tanks too long. The effect of too much water is that the gas, ethanol, and water will separate into layers in ones tank which is not good.

 

IMO, to minimize the possibility of potential separation of gas, ethanol, and water in your gas tank, 1) always buy gas at high volume stations and 2) keep your tank as full as practicable.  Problem is you could still get "bad gas" and not know it until a problem arises (injector failure).  

 

Having said the above, I don't know anyone that has had an injector failure since the introduction of ethanol.  Also, there is nothing wrong with ethanol absorbing small amounts of water.    The water molecules simply pass through the fuel system.  Although pure gas can absorb very small amounts of water, it's not significant compared to ethanol.  But, a tank of bad pure gas is likely to be detrimental to the fuel system also.

Edited August 8, 2018 by Plus 3 Golfer

[ptjones]

I find it interesting that I have 100k ICE miles on MADMAX and I still getting great MPG's, I have used Premium 99% of the time and traveling all over the country I try to use BJ's, Sam's, Walmart, Pilot and Love's, but sometimes you do the best you can. I do use injector cleaner periodically and think that is why I haven't had any problems. BTW I run my tanks down low most of the time, .5-1 gallon left.  With 320 tanks I have run out 6 times with no problems so far. :)

 

Paul

[DarenHayes]

What kind of injector cleaner? Id love to try one (im in Canada) thanks Ptjones.

[ptjones]

This is what I like and I use to get it at Walmart, but they stopped caring it.  Lucas or Chevron Techron injector cleaner would be cheaper alternatives. :) 

 

Paul    

[miltw3]

I have a 2013 Cmax Energi with 107K miles. Took it to the Ford dealer because the non-EV battery kept dying. Well after some diagnostics, they said the generator has gone bad, and consequently, that is causing the battery not to charge. And BTW, your transmission seals are bad and all of the tranny fluid has leaked out causing you it to fail, so it need to be replaced. Total cost is $9K to replace! I do hear the whining noise everyone is talking about when these transmissions have issues.

 

I feel like i now stuck with salvage car. Anyone know of a cheaper solution? Should I find a salvage part out car with a used transmission? This really sucks! A 2013 car with only $107K on it!

[ptjones]

I have a 2013 Cmax Energi with 107K miles. Took it to the Ford dealer because the non-EV battery kept dying. Well after some diagnostics, they said the generator has gone bad, and consequently, that is causing the battery not to charge. And BTW, your transmission seals are bad and all of the tranny fluid has leaked out causing you it to fail, so it need to be replaced. Total cost is $9K to replace! I do hear the whining noise everyone is talking about when these transmissions have issues.

 

I feel like i now stuck with salvage car. Anyone know of a cheaper solution? Should I find a salvage part out car with a used transmission? This really sucks! A 2013 car with only $107K on it!

The car is out of warranty, to bad you didn't extend the warranty to 125 to 130K miles. $9k seems high to replace the trans.  There is a Energi trans for sale for $1,703 on Ebay Motors and I would think a $1k for labor.  There are lot of Dealers in Atlanta area.  Maybe FORD is refurbishing trans's now. What Dealer are you going too, I live in the Atlanta area too. :)

 

Paul