13max Posted January 1, 2021 Report Share Posted January 1, 2021 On 12/26/2020 at 8:13 AM, plus 3 golfer said: You are likely hearing the cabin coolant heater pump running which is only used on the Energi model and such is not installed on the Hybrid. There are many DTCs for this pump and coolant / heater circuit. If it happens again, you need to read the DTCs. Hi Plus 3 golfer, I read your posts and replies and am super impressed with your knowledge. You help alot of owners with their questions! I took your advice an ran Forscan some codes came up. I had the issue with the battery drain again and once again the fan at the front grill was on again(You eluded to the cabin cooler heater pump) so I pulled fuse 71 for the Heater controls and I have let the car sit for 3 days not plugged in and the 12 v battery is stable @ 12.1 v. I ran forscan and there are some codes related to Voltage below threshold. Here are the two codes that i am mainly concerned about OBDII Code: P26D0 - Engine Coolant Pump Control Module System Voltage Low Status: - Confirmed - malfunction is confirmed Module: On Board Diagnostic II OBDII Code: P26CA - Engine Coolant Pump Control Circuit / Open Status: - Confirmed - malfunction is confirmed Module: On Board Diagnostic II Any help would be great as always from anyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plus 3 golfer Posted January 1, 2021 Report Share Posted January 1, 2021 OK, look at the operations of the Engine Coolant Pump in the attached document starting on page 105. You will see the two DTCs further in that section of the pdf. It looks like the issue might be with the Engine Coolant Pump not the Cabin Coolant Heater Pump. Note that there is an Emergency Run Input line directly to the PCM should the communication over the LIN fails. Are you getting any communication failure DTCs? If you are comfortable with troubleshooting (or just want to learn more), you should buy the Service Manual on Ebay. It has wiring diagrams and diagnostics like checking circuits for grounds, resistance of the pump and so forth for the DTCs. The link below is similar to the SM I purchased many years ago for around $12. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-C-Max-2013-2014-Factory-Workshop-Service-Repair-Manual-on-CD/303808654310?hash=item46bc682be6:g:d50AAOSwdnNdu4HJ OBDSM1700_HEV.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
METROMAN Posted January 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2021 I had it installed by an aftermarket accessories place about 5-6 years ago. The SA said tech told him it was wired into some module behind the radio, and that nothing should ever be wired there. Said they had to remove that harness, which now makes the camera inoperative. So... Seems like I will have about $400 invested in this problem, and now have a broken camera. Oh... But I am getting a "free" replacement battery that should have been covered under warranty anyway. I'll be checking the voltage in the battery every couple days, for a while. This thing better not die again, or I might have to go postal on them. Lol I had been following a one owner 2018 titanium Cmax wiith the 301A pkg that has been for sale in NC for months. Price had been steadily dropping, so I called them about it today. Seems some guy bought it YESTERDAY. Rats! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
13max Posted January 2, 2021 Report Share Posted January 2, 2021 15 hours ago, plus 3 golfer said: OK, look at the operations of the Engine Coolant Pump in the attached document starting on page 105. You will see the two DTCs further in that section of the pdf. It looks like the issue might be with the Engine Coolant Pump not the Cabin Coolant Heater Pump. Note that there is an Emergency Run Input line directly to the PCM should the communication over the LIN fails. Are you getting any communication failure DTCs? If you are comfortable with troubleshooting (or just want to learn more), you should buy the Service Manual on Ebay. It has wiring diagrams and diagnostics like checking circuits for grounds, resistance of the pump and so forth for the DTCs. The link below is similar to the SM I purchased many years ago for around $12. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-C-Max-2013-2014-Factory-Workshop-Service-Repair-Manual-on-CD/303808654310?hash=item46bc682be6:g:d50AAOSwdnNdu4HJ OBDSM1700_HEV.pdf 4.04 MB · 0 downloads Yes, there these communication DTC's listed. Thank you again for your insight. I will definitely get one of the service manuals as I like to figure to learn and trouble shoot. Let me know what you think of the codes below. PCM Code: U0284 - Lost Communication with Active Grille Air Shutter Module A Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC - Test not complete Module: Powertrain Control Module PCM Code: U019F - Lost Communication With Engine Coolant Pump Control Module Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is On for this DTC Module: Powertrain Control Module PCM Code: P2601 - Coolant Pump A Control Circuit Performance/Stuck Off Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Powertrain Control Module PCM Code: P0562 - System Voltage Low Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Powertrain Control Module PCM Code: P26D0 - Engine Coolant Pump Control Module System Voltage Low Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Powertrain Control Module PCM Code: P26CA - Engine Coolant Pump Control Circuit / Open Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Powertrain Control Module Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plus 3 golfer Posted January 2, 2021 Report Share Posted January 2, 2021 (edited) Ok, I think I posted about connectors prior in the area of the grille shutters and water pump as the two are near each other. IIRC, there may be a TSB about water intrusion in these connectors. When I get back later in day, I’ll look at manual. I believe the SM will say to correct the cause of comm. errors first. Found SSM. SSM 32298 - 2013 C-MAX, Fusion/MKZ Hybrid/Energi - Possible Water Intrusion In Connectors Some 2013 C-MAX, Fusion/MKZ Hybrid/Energi vehicles may exhibit various drivability or electrical concerns accompanied by one or more diagnostic trouble codes, with the most common being P26C3, P26CA, P26D0, P2800, P2802, U019F and U0284. On C-MAX inspect connectors C134, C140, C144, C1651, C1717 and C1812 for signs of water entry/corrosion and service as necessary. On Fusion/MKZ inspect connectors C146, C1651, C1812 and C2251 and service as necessary. Edited January 2, 2021 by plus 3 golfer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
13max Posted January 2, 2021 Report Share Posted January 2, 2021 Really appreciate the help! I remembered I picked up a ford Cmax wiring manual when I purchased the car.(see Attached images) Its almost like they knew a wiring short will happen and they put it in the manual.....but I do understand when parts rub, they can wear. I will be checking the wiring harness and associated stuffs today. Thanks again for your expertise and the attachment you sent earlier! Will update later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plus 3 golfer Posted January 2, 2021 Report Share Posted January 2, 2021 Great then you should have the electrical location diagrams in the wiring manual to find the connectors listed in the SSM. Hopefully you can get to them without removing too much stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
13max Posted January 2, 2021 Report Share Posted January 2, 2021 Hey Plus 3 Golfer, just wanted to update you on the trouble shoot. I have attached pics of the problem and as you eluded to, water in the connection. So I blew of both sides and dried it up, used a little dielectric grease. Took the car out for a 15 km trip both in Electric and EV later and so far so good. Wrench light and Check engine light are both off and codes are gone. Have a look at the pics. Thanks for your help, really appreciate it. I will take the car out again later today. stolenmoment 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
METROMAN Posted January 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2021 (edited) Well it's been 10 days since I picked up the car. I noticed right away that when I got in it at the dealership, the engine was already running. (the porter had bought it from the parking lot and left it running up front) Let it run for about 5 minutes more, and the engine was still running. The hybrid battery indicator showed full showed full, yet the ICE continued to run for quite some time. I was thinking it seemed like it was continuing to run in order to charge the 12v battery. The outside temp that day was about 55 I believe. I had purchased a digital battery tester, that displays the voltage, CCA present in the battery, internal battery resistance, remaining life of battery and if it needs to be replaced, or recharged and retested. I'd been testing daily, and the voltage, along with the CCA (cold cranking amps) and battery life has been dropping. On the first day, voltage was 12.36, CCA 239, life 37%. On the ninth day it was 12.07, 222 CCA, 32% life and showing to replace the battery. I put my Battery Tender 750ma charger on today (all day) until the green light indicating full charge had been reached. I then retested and it showed 12.85 volts, 244 CCA, 39% life, and to replace battery. This battery is supposed to produce 390 CCA, so seems rather weak for a "new" replacement. I hate to admit it, but the car will start, and it hasn't run down as quickly as it did before the they disconnected my back up camera. What really stinks is that the camera doesn't work anymore, and I now get a display that says camera not working, see dealer. Never had that before. What should the resistance be for this battery? I seem to recall seeing a Scotty Kilmer video where he said it should be 4 M ohms or less. I tested my truck battery, and it seemed to read good compared to my Cmax. The truck battery is 800 CCA, read out is 782, voltage at 12.11 and resistance at 3.46. Also shows "good". Thoughts, comments, snide remarks? PS I have not started the car since I brought it home. Edited January 14, 2021 by METROMAN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jestevens Posted January 14, 2021 Report Share Posted January 14, 2021 There is also a 12V battery charging algorithm that the dealer is supposed to reset whenever they change the 12V? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
METROMAN Posted February 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2021 So it's been about a month since the dealer replaced the battery. The new one seems to be doing fine. Goes for a week or more without being driven, but still starts up fine. The last time I was there, they told me they found a short/drain being caused by defective wiring with the backup camera, Considering what I've been through and already paid, the service manager was kind enough to do the wiring repair for free. Hopefully it is now healed. News flash! I found and purchased a 2018 Titanium model last week. It only has 17,000 miles on it. Did everything online and by phone. The car was an off lease unit that had spent it's life below me in Williamsburg, VA. The driver evidently just moved to PA in December, and turned it in to the Ford dealer up there, for something newer. It has the 301A package. Nav, remote start, park assist, blind spot monitoring, panoramic roof, automatic hatch opener, and I can't remember what else. The car is currently stuck up there in the snow, waiting for a shipper to be able to bring it down here. MSRP was just under $32,000. Paid $15,000 plus fees. Total with shipping was $16,554 OTD. I feel like I got a good deal. I'm feeling much better about not taking the depreciation hit on this one, like I will on my 2013 when I sell it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
homestead Posted February 6, 2021 Report Share Posted February 6, 2021 Sounds like a good deal. Is it a hybrid or Energi model? I have been thinking about a similar car but not many 2018's around here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
METROMAN Posted February 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2021 It's the hybrid model. Energis are much more plentiful and cheaper. Not enough cargo room for me, so no interest in one of those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fbov Posted February 6, 2021 Report Share Posted February 6, 2021 3 hours ago, METROMAN said: 2018 Titanium model last week. It only has 17,000 miles That's a nice sweet spot for age and miles. I hope you enjoy it for many years! Frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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