tstraw Posted April 13, 2021 Report Share Posted April 13, 2021 My daughter's car, she called and said it sounded like it was missing. I went out to check it out and hooked up code reader. I got codes P0201 Injector Circuit / Open, Cylinder 1 and also P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected. Car definitely sounded like it was missing. After it sat and ran for a while then it cleared up, the miss went away. We went to the local auto parts to buy injectors, but they did not have in stock at store, so we had to order. The car seemed to drive perfectly with no missing. She drove car a couple more days till she could get the car to my garage and switch vehicles. The miss seemed to come and go. We received the injectors and I also got new spark plugs since they seemed to be original Ford Spark Plugs. The care has around 122,000 miles on it. After installing all new injectors and new spark plugs, now the car will not run. Well, it will start up but seems to be missing and you can not step on the gas. It will only run about 15-20 seconds and shut off. I had read injectors were a common thing and thought for sure we were on the right track. After replacing all the injectors, I ohmed the old ones. I read good injectors should be between 11-18 ohms. I ohmed 12.4,13.6,12.3, and 19.8 . Although 19.8 isn't very far out of spec that at least kept me thinking that one could have had the issue. All new injector (that are in the car now) ohmed at 12.2 ohms. I was thinking (wishful thinking) maybe the injectors I received were not right? Now, I went back and re-installed the old spark plugs to see if it could have been an issue with them. I still have the same result, care will sound like it is idling for about 15-20 seconds then shut off. If anyone has seen this type of issue or would have any idea what might be causing it, any help would be GREAT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptjones Posted April 13, 2021 Report Share Posted April 13, 2021 I was wondering if you tried good injector cleaner first? I went around 200k miles on spark pages and there was nothing wrong with them other than japing a little, but I had already bought the plugs so I installed them. I currently have 270k miles on my CMAX and it is still running great. try putting the old injectors in and using injector cleaner. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jzchen Posted April 13, 2021 Report Share Posted April 13, 2021 I agree, but to put the three known good old injectors in, and see how the car runs with one new injector. If worse than with the 19.8 Ohm one you somehow got incompatible or defective injectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tstraw Posted April 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2021 No, I did not try any injector cleaner. Should think simple first! Well I will definitely try that. I made a appointment at a dealer but they can't get me in till next Monday. I would love to resolve the problem and avoid paying a high repair bill! I will keep you posted! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zathrus Posted April 13, 2021 Report Share Posted April 13, 2021 Agree with trying injector cleaner. Other's with similar misfire problem have found the Upper Cylinder Lubricant and Injector Cleaner from Lucas to work best (see below post). I have used it and noticed it fixed my misfires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tstraw Posted April 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2021 All old injectors are back in. Along with the original spark plugs. I completed this last evening but then engine would not even try to start. I put battery charger on the 12 volt battery, even though I didn't think that was the issue. Today, new spark plugs are back in. Engine turned over and started, didn't sound bad! BUT..., still shut off after about 10-15 seconds! The only code showing is Cylinder 4 misfire? Would that shut engine down? Going to install 1 new injector in for #4 and see if that makes any difference? Another thing I noticed is the hybrid battery is very low or dead at this point. Will this prevent motor from running? Any suggestions / ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
homestead Posted April 14, 2021 Report Share Posted April 14, 2021 Is there a separate coil for each cylinder? If so perhaps one of the coils got damaged in the repair process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cr08 Posted April 14, 2021 Report Share Posted April 14, 2021 (edited) Continuing to try to start the ICE if it can't continue to run and charge the HVB can be detrimental to it so I'd try and reduce how often you try until it can be properly sorted. If the HVB is drained beyond the point of being able to start the ICE, you're going to have to get a dealer involved so they can bring in a special battery charging unit if this is a Hybrid only model. That said, no, the HVB being low should not prevent the ICE from running if it was able to start it to begin with. Quite the opposite: If the battery is low enough but is able to start, it's gonna want to run the ICE longer to get the charge back up to a reasonable level barring any other issues to cause it to shut down the ICE. Probably a dumb question: But are you certain the ICE is shutting down due to a mechanical issue and not just because of the normal hybrid operation? There should be specific DTCs stored if the ICE is disabled/shut down due to an issue/failure where it is unsafe to continue running. Also the 'Ready to Drive' light -SHOULD- go out if there is an actual issue as the vehicle will no longer be able to move under its own power. If it's not reporting said DTC or the Ready to Drive light is still on, you can try this: While in Park with the vehicle started, hold the accelerator to the floor. This will, under normal operating circumstances, force the ICE to continue running while the pedal is pressed and charge the battery if it is able. If it is able to continue running in this case, the vehicle is at least not detecting any serious issues to prevent it from operating but if you still have misfire codes, those will obviously need to be figured out. Edited April 14, 2021 by cr08 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cr08 Posted April 14, 2021 Report Share Posted April 14, 2021 47 minutes ago, homestead said: Is there a separate coil for each cylinder? If so perhaps one of the coils got damaged in the repair process. Forgot to add this to my post, but this is also a very good item to check. This vehicle as well as most modern ones do have separate coils per spark plug and it is not uncommon for them to occasionally go bad. An easy check without a full on Ford IDS scantool is to clear the misfire codes and swap coils between the reported 'bad' one per the misfire code to another cylinder. If the misfire code follows the coil to the new cylinder, you have your problem. If the misfire position stays, it is something else still tied to that cylinder. Spark plug at best but could be a deeper issue. Also please ensure everything is fully seated and connected when doing this work. ptjones 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tstraw Posted April 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2021 The 3 old injectors along with 1 new injector are in car, all new spark plugs. Tried switching Coil #4 and coil # 2, tried clearing codes and I am still getting the #4 misfire code. When the engine is started, the ready to drive light is on but quicky goes away and says pull over immediately. Check engine light flashes and still the code I am getting is Misfire #4. Engine shuts off. Very strong gas smell, like it is dumping too much. I didn't include the strong gas smell in the other posts, but should have. It was very noticeable before as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zathrus Posted April 15, 2021 Report Share Posted April 15, 2021 (edited) Since the failure appears to be isolated to #4 (and is independent of injector or coil installed), perhaps there is an issue with the harness going from PCM (Power Control Module) to injectors. The CMax Service manual for DTC P0201 calls for harness pinpoint testing as follows (cut & paste from service manual does not work well, so sorry for poor formatting below) : DTC P0201: CYLINDER 1 INJECTOR A CIRCUIT/OPEN DTC P0201: CYLINDER 1 INJECTOR A CIRCUIT/OPEN Description: This DTC sets when the fuel injector circuitry is inoperative. Possible Causes: INJ1 circuit open VPWR circuit open Damaged fuel injector Diagnostic Aids: The INJ1F PID is YES. Application Key On Engine Off Key On Engine Running Continuous Memory All GO to PINPOINT TEST KG . This pinpoint test is intended to diagnose the following: fuel injector(s) (9F593) harness circuits: VPWR and INJ 1 through 4 powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650) Fig. 76: Identifying Fuel Injector Connector Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO. / Fig. 77: Identifying Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Connector (128 Pin) Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO. TEST PROCEDURE KG1 CHECK THE VPWR CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN NOTE: Disconnect the suspect fuel injector harness connector. Only the suspect injector needs to be diagnosed. Ignition OFF. Fuel Injector connector disconnected. Ignition ON, engine OFF. Measure the voltage between: (+) Suspect Injector Solenoid Connector, Harness Side (-) VPWR Ground Is the voltage greater than 10.5 V? Yes No GO to KG2 . REPAIR the open circuit. Clear the PCM DTCs. REPEAT the self-test. KG2 CHECK THE INJ CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN Ignition OFF. PCM connector disconnected. Measure the resistance between: (+) Suspect Injector Solenoid Connector, Harness Side (-) PCM Connector, Harness Side INJ INJ Is the resistance less than 5 ohms? Yes No GO to KG3 . REPAIR the open circuit. Clear the PCM DTCs. REPEAT the self-test. KG3 CHECK THE INJ CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO GROUND / Measure the resistance between: (+) Suspect Injector Solenoid Connector, Harness Side (-) INJ Ground Is the resistance greater than 10K ohms? Yes No GO to KG4 . REPAIR the short circuit. Clear the PCM DTCs. REPEAT the self-test. KG4 CHECK THE INJ CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO VOLTAGE Ignition ON, engine OFF. Measure the voltage between: (+) Suspect Injector Solenoid Connector, Harness Side (-) INJ Ground Is any voltage present? Yes No REPAIR the short circuit. Clear the PCM DTCs. REPEAT the self-test. GO to KG5 . KG5 CHECK THE RESISTANCE OF THE FUEL INJECTOR Ignition OFF. Measure the resistance between: (+) Suspect Injector Solenoid Connector, Component Side (-) Suspect Injector Solenoid Connector, Component Side INJ VPWR Is the resistance between 11 - 18 ohms? Yes No GO to KG6 . INSTALL a new fuel injector. REFER to the appropriate Fuel Charging and Controls article. RESET the keep alive memory (KAM). REFER to DIAGNOSTIC MONITORING TEST RESULTS MODE 6 . REPEAT the self-test. KG6 CHECK THE FUNCTIONALITY OF THE INJ CIRCUIT PCM connector connected. Ignition ON, engine OFF. Connect a non-powered test lamp between: Point A Suspect Injector Solenoid Connector, Harness Side Point B Suspect Injector Solenoid Connector, Harness Side VPWR INJ Is the test lamp blinking? Yes No GO to KG7 . GO to KG8. KG7 CARRY OUT A THOROUGH WIGGLE TEST ON THE FUEL INJECTOR HARNESS Ignition OFF. Fuel Injector connector connected. Ignition ON, engine running. / Engine at normal operating temperature. Access the PCM and monitor the INJ_F (MODE) PID. Wiggle, shake, and bend small sections of the wiring harness while working from the fuel injector to the PCM. Are any injector values fluctuating in and out of range? Yes No ISOLATE the concern and REPAIR as necessary. Clear the PCM DTCs. REPEAT the self-test. Unable to duplicate or identify the concern at this time. GO to PINPOINT TEST Z. KG8 CHECK FOR CORRECT PCM OPERATION Disconnect all the PCM connectors. Visually inspect for: pushed out pins corrosion Connect all the PCM connectors and make sure they seat correctly. Carry out the PCM self-test. Verify the concern is still present. Is the concern still present? Yes No INSTALL a new PCM. REFER to FLASH ELECTRICALLY ERASABLE PROGRAMMABLE READ ONLY MEMORY (EEPROM) , Programming the VID Block for a Replacement PCM. The system is operating correctly at this time. The concern may have been caused by a loose or corroded connector. Edited April 15, 2021 by Zathrus djc and ptjones 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ctgriffi Posted April 29, 2021 Report Share Posted April 29, 2021 I guess my thread on a similar issue has already been posted here, up above, but I'll go head and do a quick recap of what I would do if I came up against P219A and P0304 codes or similar... 1) Pull the upper intake assembly and check spark plugs and coil packs. Plugs are easy to check/replace, and the four coil packs can each be checked for proper resistance with multimeter. Make sure plug wires and coil packs are properly, firmly reconnected. 2) If plugs and coil packs are good, run some good quality injector cleaner through the system. Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant was recommended and seems to be good stuff (helped clear my codes, at least temporarily, and I still use it on a 6-month basis). 3) If codes continue to indicate a misfire on one or more cylinders—and you have 100,000+ miles on the vehicle—purchase four of the OEM Motorcraft injectors for your engine and replace them all by removing the intake assembly, unplugging coil packs and other wiring, and pulling the fuel rail (not a terribly difficult job if you've got some tools and any mechanical experience). Be careful to blow off dust/debris with compressed air before removing the fuel rail and do not let anything fall in the injector holes! 4) If none of the above helps, I would also lean towards a possible wiring harness problem (like Zathrus has already detailed). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djc Posted May 5, 2021 Report Share Posted May 5, 2021 Running and dying sounds like fuel pressure problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tstraw Posted May 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2021 Sorry I never updated. We ended up trailering it to a ford garage. We installed the original injectors minus the one that seemed to be bad. We installed the one new injector, which the mechanic said was no good so he replaced with a new Ford injector? Charged up the hybrid battery and all is good. I checked the numbers again to make sure we purchased the correct (aftermarket) injectors, which the information said we did. We purchased from advanced auto parts. So for some reason, apparently the injectors we purchased were not any good. ptjones 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tstraw Posted May 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2021 I often used aftermarket parts, but I guess in this case, should have went with oem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jzchen Posted May 18, 2021 Report Share Posted May 18, 2021 I usually search for aftermarket products first also, especially if they say "lifetime warranty". I guess the C-MAX is finicky when it comes to injectors! Thanks for bringing closure to this thread! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunt3rj2 Posted July 26, 2021 Report Share Posted July 26, 2021 You most likely got what I would describe as counterfeit injectors. Even if they technically are not, ECUs are extremely sensitive to fuel injector characteristics. It's not enough to just match flow rate at 3 bar differential pressure and have it hook up to the fuel rail and intake the same way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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