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12 v battery charging


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54 replies to this topic

#21 OFFLINE   jestevens

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Posted 05 February 2018 - 07:26 AM

Next time you go to the dealer ask them to make sure your car has all the 12V battery updates.  There was a customer satisfaction letter that was sent out about it but I forget the number.  I have a 2013 SEL and Ford kept telling me that my 12V battery was good but I started to have issues with the smart key not unlocking the door.  In my opinion it was worth the $200 (parts + labor) to let them do it.  The battery alone costs at least $120 on sale from Motorcraft - it was going to cost $150 on Amazon + $30 shipping so why not just let them do it considering it's hidden under the floor in the back.  I did replace the 12V battery in my Prius and the procedure is about the same, not very much fun outside in 4F weather.  So between replacing the 12V and the coin cells in the FOBs no more issue.  I had already replaced FOB battery a few months prior to having the unlock problem so I knew it wasn't that.

 

Hopefully you already know about the emergency key that is hidden in the FOB?  Useful if the battery dies and you can't get the car unlocked.


Edited by jestevens, 05 February 2018 - 07:31 AM.








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#22 OFFLINE   kyledamron

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Posted 08 February 2018 - 03:57 PM

Woke up on Tuesday to a dead battery in the car. Still on the original for my 2013 with 71,600 miles. I put my booster pack on it and worked just fine since. I had problems with Sync the day before where it would not play audio or anything, so I think that drained the battery. Otherwise it seems to be working okay.



#23 OFFLINE   cmax-nynj

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Posted 11 February 2018 - 04:16 PM

I have had a number of dead 12V battery moments and I'm comfortable using a booster pack under the hood to start the car.  However, I want to invent a way so that I can plug the booster pack from inside the car when battery is dead (a solution for the worried wife).  I'm thinking of running a Wire (w/Fuse) from the Positive terminal of the 12V battery (under the trunk); add a ground wire and find a male adapter that would fit my booster pack.  I wonder what the fuse amperage should be for safety; and the minimum thickness (gauge) of wire I need to use.


Edited by cmax-nynj, 11 February 2018 - 04:19 PM.


#24 ONLINE   Plus 3 Golfer

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Posted 11 February 2018 - 05:10 PM

I have had a number of dead 12V battery moments and I'm comfortable using a booster pack under the hood to start the car.  However, I want to invent a way so that I can plug the booster pack from inside the car when battery is dead (a solution for the worried wife).  I'm thinking of running a Wire (w/Fuse) from the Positive terminal of the 12V battery (under the trunk); add a ground wire and find a male adapter that would fit my booster pack.  I wonder what the fuse amperage should be for safety; and the minimum thickness (gauge) of wire I need to use.

I'd use a fuse tap and plug it into a spare fuse slot or a used slot in the front or rear junction box which are hot all the time.  Now just wire up the fuse tap to a compatible plug for your jump start.   

 

You could make it easy for your wife by also wiring in a momentary pushbutton on the driver's side and leave the jump start connected all the time. So for a no start, one holds the pushbutton in while starting the car.


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#25 OFFLINE   jestevens

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Posted 12 February 2018 - 01:52 PM

No issues since I had my battery replaced - considering it was the original battery and mine was built in May 2012 maybe some of them are genuinely reaching end of useful life?  Ford said battery was good but car was starting to act funky.



#26 OFFLINE   cmax-nynj

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Posted 13 February 2018 - 08:58 AM

My battery was replaced once.  It doesn't make a difference since the 12V draining is random.


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#27 OFFLINE   jestevens

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Posted 13 February 2018 - 10:19 AM

Sorry, that sucks, I was hoping that they had finally worked out the problem for the SE's..



#28 OFFLINE   Dave Hill

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Posted 12 March 2018 - 06:35 PM

The topic is 12V battery so here is my battery experience.

Every year we go to Florida for 2 months. we have done this twice since we bought our 2015 C-MAX SEL Hybrid. We leave the max at home.

This year when we came home I could not start the car.  My immediate suspicion was the fob. I found the emergency key in the fob but could not get to the battery.

Took it to the Ford dealer and they managed to change the fob battery after much difficulty. The car would not start. I tried all the little tricks with the fob on the steering column but no luck.

Finally decided to jump it from my other car. Very simple process but I drove it a little bit to make sure it was charged. Have had no trouble since but I am curious.

Are you saying that once I have jumped the car and started it, there is no need to run it at all? How long does it take the HV battery to charge the 12V?

Why is there no information on battery maintenance in the manual? At least not any that I have found.

Does it need water? Does it even use water and how does one get into it if they want to actually see the 12V battery.

And one more thing, why is there not a simple switch that will start the car from the HV battery if the 12V is dead. I had that on a 2005 RV that I owned. If the chassis battery would not start the engine, you just pushed the ACC (house) bat switch and it never failed.


Edited by Dave Hill, 12 March 2018 - 06:43 PM.


#29 ONLINE   Plus 3 Golfer

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Posted 12 March 2018 - 07:33 PM

The topic is 12V battery so here is my battery experience.

Every year we go to Florida for 2 months. we have done this twice since we bought our 2015 C-MAX SEL Hybrid. We leave the max at home.

This year when we came home I could not start the car.  My immediate suspicion was the fob. I found the emergency key in the fob but could not get to the battery.

Took it to the Ford dealer and they managed to change the fob battery after much difficulty. The car would not start. I tried all the little tricks with the fob on the steering column but no luck.

Finally decided to jump it from my other car. Very simple process but I drove it a little bit to make sure it was charged. Have had no trouble since but I am curious.

1) Are you saying that once I have jumped the car and started it, there is no need to run it at all? 2) How long does it take the HV battery to charge the 12V?

3)Why is there no information on battery maintenance in the manual? At least not any that I have found.

4)Does it need water? 5)Does it even use water and how does one get into it if they want to actually see the 12V battery.

And one more thing, 6) why is there not a simple switch that will start the car from the HV battery if the 12V is dead. I had that on a 2005 RV that I owned. If the chassis battery would not start the engine, you just pushed the ACC (house) bat switch and it never failed.

1) The battery needs to be charged somewhat by leaving the car on or via a smart battery charger to ensure it will start later.

 

2) When my 12 V battery was failing, I've charged my 12V battery twice with a charger and it took overnight to fully charge (say 8 hours).  Please read the discussion in this thread http://fordcmaxhybri...-battery-last/ on SOC of the 12 V battery.  It seems that to reach 100% SOC by driving or leaving car on is as long and maybe more than using a battery charger. 

 

3) The battery requires no maintenance.

 

4) The battery is sealed.

 

5) The battery is in the rear hatch area underneath the floor on the back right side.  Lift up the rear lid to the small storage compartment in the rear and remove the small rubber mat and hardboard cover to expose about 1/4 of the battery.  Removing the battery requires removing the rear floor cover.

 

6) The HVB systems require that the control modules be operational in order to power up and connect the HVB to DC/DC converter.  The DC/DC converter takes the High Voltage and steps it down to 12 V.  A simple switch would need to be wired to a dedicated number of Li-Ion cells to powerup the modules such that the HVB could then be used via the DC/DC converter to run the 12V system.  It's another level of complexity with likley safety concerns ($$).  Just buy a jump start which would be your auxiliary battery.


Edited by Plus 3 Golfer, 12 March 2018 - 11:44 PM.

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#30 OFFLINE   Louder North

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Posted 14 March 2018 - 12:30 PM

My battery was replaced once.  It doesn't make a difference since the 12V draining is random.

 

We just had the 12v battery replaced by Ford recently in our 2013.  Then, randomly, we noticed the radio would not turn on.  After parking it for a few days, it wouldn't unlock/open with the fob (first clue that the battery is dead - now wondering if the radio not turning on was the hint of a random electrical drain). Opened the door with the metal key in the fob, opened the hood, and checked the voltage with my meter.  Only 12.1 v (should be at least 12.6 -12.8 v).  Hooked up the posts to my battery charger and left it that way for 5 hours (6 A charge).  All good since then but will be checking voltage with my meter periodically. 


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#31 OFFLINE   SnowStorm

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Posted 14 March 2018 - 01:31 PM

12.1 volts is plenty of voltage.  You don't need a fully charged battery at 12.6 to 12.8 volts.  In fact, the car should "start" with a "discharged" 12 volt battery at 10.5 volts.  Your FOB battery may be the one that is dying.  My radio has also died (was intermittent for a while) but I'm having no battery trouble.



#32 OFFLINE   cmax-nynj

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Posted 14 March 2018 - 02:01 PM

We all have been dealing with this since the car came out.  Just buy a portable jump starter and pray that Ford comes up with a solution.  Getting a new battery wouldn't help with the issue, the car would still randomly not start.  My frequency is about 5x a year and I'm on the second 12V battery since 2014.  In my case it doesn't seem to have anything to do with outside temp. My car would start in sub-zero weather but on a warmer day it may fail.


Edited by cmax-nynj, 14 March 2018 - 02:04 PM.


#33 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 14 March 2018 - 04:03 PM

It is interesting that I've never had this problem in 5 and half years. :headscratch:

 

Paul



#34 ONLINE   homestead

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Posted 14 March 2018 - 10:34 PM

It is interesting that I've never had this problem in 5 and half years. :headscratch:

 

Paul

 

Same here no dead batteries in 5 years.  I think this problem was more common on SE cars.  Something discharging the battery after shutdown but very difficult to troubleshoot.  There was a TSB on it a couple years ago make sure the dealer checks all the trouble spots on that document.


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#35 OFFLINE   Louder North

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Posted 15 March 2018 - 12:02 PM

12.1 volts is plenty of voltage.  You don't need a fully charged battery at 12.6 to 12.8 volts.  In fact, the car should "start" with a "discharged" 12 volt battery at 10.5 volts.  Your FOB battery may be the one that is dying.  My radio has also died (was intermittent for a while) but I'm having no battery trouble.

 

Yes, normally 12.1 v should be plenty, but it wasn't in my case. After opening the car with the metal key, there was no display, nothing on the dash. 

FOB battery is 6 months old. It's weird.  After charging the battery again, the radio started working again as normal.



#36 ONLINE   Plus 3 Golfer

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Posted 17 March 2018 - 11:23 AM

I posted the following in a prior thread:  

 

Below is an excerpt from the service manual.  When the car is on, alarms (DTCs) aren't triggered until the voltage falls below 11.5 V and the converter will continue to supply power down to 8 V.   But we still don't know the minimum voltage needed start the car.  The answer might be the minimum voltage spec. for closing the relay that connects the HVB to the car. A quick search of HV, 12 V relays shows that the minimum operating voltage might be around 75% of rated voltage or 9 V.


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#37 OFFLINE   Bill-N

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Posted 18 March 2018 - 11:30 AM

Just another data point:  my cigarette lighter voltmeter showed 11.1V yesterday when I started the car.  I leave the voltmeter plugged in all the time with no issues.

 

Note the car was unlocked and in the garage, so this says nothing about minimum voltage needed to unlock.


Edited by Bill-N, 19 March 2018 - 09:41 AM.

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#38 OFFLINE   cmax-nynj

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Posted 18 March 2018 - 08:31 PM

Mine also showed 11.1V before I started it today.  I don't think it needs 12V+ to start the car.



#39 OFFLINE   joe

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Posted 18 March 2018 - 10:09 PM

For the first five years, I never had any problems with the 12v battery.  Last year, I replaced the 12 v because in my previous cars, the battery would die around 5 years.  In January, I came out and the car was dead.  I used my small portable lithium battery to jump start the car (from under the hood).  Took less than a minute to hook up and start.  The battery worked until two weeks ago when it died again.  Jump started the car and went to Ford, and they said the battery was defective and replaced it under the warranty. 

 

I'm beginning to believe that our problems are with the 12v battery, not the car.  It reminds me of an experience 30 years ago when a fleet of Dodge vans had problems with drag links failing.  Dodge said there was no problem with the drag links, but their parts department always had plenty of drag links in stock, which seemed unusual because drag links shouldn't fail so why did they have so many in the parts department?

 

UPDATE:  The battery that I got in March failed early June.  Dealer replaced at no cost under warranty.


Edited by joe, 14 June 2018 - 02:58 PM.

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#40 OFFLINE   veggirl57

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Posted 21 June 2018 - 10:45 AM

New to any car with so many bells and whistles. Have a 2013 CMax hybrid with 42000 miles on it. Dead battery after sitting for 13 hours after I finished work. Have an appointment with dealer in July to run diagnostics. I can’t deal with worrying I’m going to have a dead battery at any time. So questions:

1. What’s the quickest way to get this car running without jumper cables?
2. What’s the best way to check the battery to see if it’s low?
3. I hate not having a spare, used that stupid kit in a panic....how do I get the kit replaced and what do ppl do if they get a flat?
4. The vinyl/plastic black cover that’s on the underside of the car at the front fell Dow, dragged and is now shredded. How do I get it replaced without spending a fortune?
5. Any suggestions for how to get the windshield wiper dispenser to get enough ‘umph” to actually put fluid on the windshield?

Am trying to figure out ways to live with this car which I purchased Dec. 2017 and not spend a fortune as it looks like the only way things can get fixed is by the deal which means MONEY.






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