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Indeed. I am very happy to see he's making video's again... I'd be ecstatic if I had a Mach E.

It's not a flashlight. You can hurt yourself at these voltages. Do you still think, after all these years, that you can "just switch the hot line?" First, you'd have to get dressed for it. Then you'd need a second voltage matching circuit. Switching 200+VDC with mechanical contacts causes an arc every time you open and close the switch. The arc destroys the contacts, so the switch fails. You'd need to add a second voltage matching circuit to your added pack, to bring the contacts up to voltage before closing them. Now, where are you going to put it?

Then you are a fool.

Good memory! Worn tread is thinner tread, so it bends more easily. My Escape Hybrid's OEM Ecopia's were almost flimsy, and I did see a slight uptick in mileage in their last few thousand miles... but it was a very small shift just before I put the CC2 on in 11/21. This past Winter wasn't far off the past, but Summer sure is. Barely seeing 45 mpg, not 50 mpg. This is an even more analytical picture, because I do volunteer courier work to the tune of 1K miles per month (lower curves). Since you can't average MPG, I plot "fuel usage" so I can take averages. Two seasons on OEM overlap, but average of CC2 are 10% higher. And I should include some C-Max data... OEM Energy Savers vs. X-Ice 3, whose curves overlap. Snow tires don't have to hurt mileage, even if Winter will.

Ecopias were the OEM tire on my Escape. They did much better in snow than they had any right to, and their replacement (CrossClimate2) are running 10% greater fuel consumption. CC2 are great tires in many respects, just not LRR.

You should have a button on the shifter that engages "Hill Descent" mode, an elevated level of regen when driving down a grade. Mine would max out (35kW) on a steep hill, then go into engine brake mode, aka "jake" brake, which is very loud, but intended operation, nonetheless.

Keep in mind that Energi variants had 0 of 4 transmission failures in the same test that failed 3 of 4 in Hybrid variants.

CC2 are very good tires, but they're not low RR. I'm seeing a 10% increase in fuel consumption since mounting them. Great in every other respect, especially in winter, but I'm not seeing 50 mpg this year. European tires are a different design.

It's in here, but I agree you don't need to do it for a 12v battery replacement. 2013_CMAX_Modifer_Guide.pdf

Not really (assuming it has all the safety approvals). The only reason I see is if you planned to upgrade, EV-wise, to something that needs more power. 1.7kW from a 110v circuit only cuts it for plug-in hybrids.

Nothing in my OM, either... just a bunch of things to do after replacement to get the car "reset." BMS reset is in the forum

Welcome, and I like your guess. Have you looked at it to see if it's ever been replaced? There is a simple test... turn on the radio, turn off the car and wait without opening the door. Time how long the radio plays. A good 12v battery will get you 10 min. A poor one, more like 2 min. Best of luck! You'll find lots here; try a search!

People like you allow me to claim I'm not hypermiling... I only get ~45 mpg (and that's in the Escape).

Have you looked underneath for something loose? Sway bar links are famous for failure, and the symptoms are close to what you describe. Not a hard DIY fix, and fairly cheap to hire out. Have fun, Frank

Why? Your life is holding well! The biggest issue is that the HVB is matched to an inverter/converter system tailored to the HVB voltage. It's a smaller battery, running at lower voltage than C-Max, but with water cooling that allows much more aggressive charging/discharging.