oldbeyondmeasure

Credit appears to be 30% of the sale price up to $4,000. Note income (Modified Adjusted Gross Income) restrictions on claiming the credit, plus some other restrictions.

Maybe plugshare.com can help you locate a J-1772 charger near your work.

The attached document is for a 2017 C-Max Energi, so I don't know if it applies to yours, but take a look at the diagrams beginning on page 2-20. 2017-C-Max-Modifiers-Guide.pdf

I have a 2017 C-Max Energi with almost 20,000 miles on it. (I am retired and don't drive much these days.) About 85% of my driving is on the battery so I buy the equivalent of about one tank of gasoline per year. The car claims to have a 24-mile range on electricity only but I think 18 to 20 miles is more realistic; most of my trips are within that range. Using heater/defroster or air conditioning reduces the range pretty substantially. On cold days or hot days (I live in Southern California and it can get very hot here), I will sometimes force the internal combustion engine to turn on so that it takes the HVAC load. Similarly, when I go on the freeway I turn the ICE on because the range is less at freeway speeds. The electric-only range will decrease over time: I have a neighbor with an early C-Max Energi (maybe 2014) with about 110,000 miles on it and I think his electric-only range is down to about 12 miles or so.

Assuming that you have an "Intelligent Access Key," have you tried this (from the Quick Reference Guide): Also see page 50 or thereabouts in the Owner's Manual.

I haven't had any experience with TPMS sensors on my C-Max. I had a sensor go bad on a Honda CR-V after eight years or so. I am pretty sure that I replaced only one at that time. I am not sure whether the car indicated which sensor was bad or whether the tire shop had to pull all four wheels and inspect each one.

A couple of thoughts from a 2017 C-Max Energi owner: 1. I am suspicious of the mileage per gallon that the car calculates because it overestimates the EV (battery only) range: claims 27 to 28 miles and I don't think I have ever achieved that; in optimal conditions, perhaps I can get 24 miles. 2. On the other hand, the brake coach is very helpful and learning how to coast and brake properly does help the range and gas mileage. 3. I think that 40 mpg in hybrid mode is the maximum that I can achieve across all driving conditions. 4. I have not checked, but the Energi must be heavier than the hybrid because of the large battery and that probably reduces mileage in hybrid mode.

Thanks for the comments. I think I just found the answer to my question #1. I was reading the wrong date on the files: I now believe I did my last map update in August 2020, not in January 2022. If I do this, I will buy the official version. I am sure that the Cyanlabs software has been thoroughly tested and used by many but I prefer to stick with the stock SYNC 3, etc.

Ford (ford@em3893.syncnavigation.com) just sent an email note offering to update my navigation maps in my 2017 C-Max with SYNC 3. The fine print says: "The current Map version is NA 2 21." According to the display in my car, I currently have NA 1 19. It appears that I bought an upgrade in January 2022 and tried to install it. So perhaps some folks can help me out here..... 1. Since the current map in the car is NA 1 19, does that mean that my upgrade in January 2022 was not installed correctly? I did it from downloaded files. 2. Does it make sense to upgrade to NA 2 21? Ford wants $109 for a single upgrade or $199 for a five-year subscription.

Thanks for citing the two articles, they are useful. A Tesla Model Y will likely be using Level 2 charging, which is more efficient than the Level 1 charging that I am using. The time-of-use rate is a good suggestion but I would pay much more to run the house air conditioner during the peak period than I would save by charging the car at night. Running the air conditioner on a hot day for 90 minutes will consume about as much electricity as a full charge of the C-Max Energi from 0% to 100%. In the recent Southern California heat wave, we were running the air conditioner for as long as 12 hours per day and for five hours per day during the peak time period (4 PM to 9 PM). So I will stick with the electricity rate that doesn't change between time periods and pay more to charge the car.

Just wondering if you guys are figuring charging losses into your cents per mile calculations? I have a 2017 C-Max Energi that seems to hold about 5.5 kWh in the plugin battery. I am using a 110 volt charger that came with the car, which isn't very efficient. To add 5.5 kWh to the battery takes about 7.5 to 8 kWh at the meter, so the Level 1 charger is only 70% efficient. So doing really crude math, my car gets about 3 miles per kWh delivered at the electric meter. At the full price of electricity in most of Southern California, that works out to between 10 and 13 cents per mile. Because I have solar panels on the house, I don't pay that full cost, so I am fortunate. There are also some EV rates available from the utilities but I have not looked into them. But the bottom line is that I do not think I can come close to 2.6 to 3 cents per mile, even if I installed the Level 2 charger that I presume you are using, as even Level 2 chargers have losses. What secret sauce am I missing?

The vehicle price must be under $25,000 and the credit is the *lower* of $4,000 or 30% of the vehicle price. But there are income caps on eligibility: $75,000 for single filers, $112,500 for head of household and $150,000 for joint filers. So I wonder whether the dealer is going to offer me the full $4,000 more because not all buyers will be able to claim the credit. Kelley Blue Book says that my 2017 C-Max Energi Titanium is worth about $19,000, so I suppose most of the potential buyers at the dealer would qualify for the credit and the dealer might in turn give me a better offer. But it won't happen until dealers find that customers are willing to pay more for used EVs. That will take some time. (I am also assuming an honest dealer and salesperson, etc. My experience is that some are and some aren't. I am reminded of the time when I tried to buy a new Honda CR-V and all the dealers wanted at least $1,000 over MSRP. But that is a rant for another day. Here I suspect that the dealers will try to offer me no more than the private-sale price so that they can keep as much of the $4,000 for themselves.)

I have a 2017 C-Max Energi. My memory is that I only see leaves when the gasoline engine has been engaged during the trip. When I drive on electricity only, I don't see leaves. My display almost always shows regen when coasting. The only time that it didn't was during a rainstorm when the road surface was wet. My vague memory was that tapping the brake pedal would get the car to show regen again.

My understanding is that a Level 2 (220V/240V) charger is more efficient (less energy lost in the charging process) than a Level 1 (120V) charger. It is also more expensive and requires a 220V/240V circuit so it may not be cost-effective.

Try Vehicle (at the bottom of the main screen) >> Status (expand by clicking the down arrow) >> Tire Pressure Monitoring I wouldn't test the system by letting air out of the tires. If one of the tire pressure sensors is bad, I think you should get a TPMS warning on the instrument panel. (I have not observed this in my C-Max, but once in a Honda CR-V, the TPMS warning appeared when a sensor failed. I went to a tire store and had it replaced.) The graphic is a copy of part of the owner's manual for my 2017 C-Max Energi.