cmax-nynj

How's the suspension? I don't like the C-Max's stiff ride for everyday driving. The steering ratio is also way too quick on the C-Max. I don't think $4895 is a bad price based on the mileage.

The original tires are very long lasting (70K miles +); remain quiet when worn and are OK on dry surface. I just keep mine at 38PSI because the C-Max has such a stiff ride. However, the grip is terrible on wet and light snow with these long last tires. I would sacrifice a few MPG for better grip.

Ford doesn't even bother this year to include the C-Max in the NY Autoshow. I sat in the Volt and Bolt they both feel cheap inside. In fact, I can't even fit in the back in the Volt

Hi, I'm approaching 78K miles and I notice the rear end has gotten louder going over big bumps. I wonder if the shocks are due for replacement. The bounce test does not seem to indicate anything is wrong and there is no fluid leakage around the rear shocks. Has anyone replaced theirs? Please share you experience.... It looks like each shock requires turning 3 bolts to replace. I'm still on original tires and there is no abnormal wear.

Mine also showed 11.1V before I started it today. I don't think it needs 12V+ to start the car.

We all have been dealing with this since the car came out. Just buy a portable jump starter and pray that Ford comes up with a solution. Getting a new battery wouldn't help with the issue, the car would still randomly not start. My frequency is about 5x a year and I'm on the second 12V battery since 2014. In my case it doesn't seem to have anything to do with outside temp. My car would start in sub-zero weather but on a warmer day it may fail.

My battery was replaced once. It doesn't make a difference since the 12V draining is random.

I have had a number of dead 12V battery moments and I'm comfortable using a booster pack under the hood to start the car. However, I want to invent a way so that I can plug the booster pack from inside the car when battery is dead (a solution for the worried wife). I'm thinking of running a Wire (w/Fuse) from the Positive terminal of the 12V battery (under the trunk); add a ground wire and find a male adapter that would fit my booster pack. I wonder what the fuse amperage should be for safety; and the minimum thickness (gauge) of wire I need to use.

Factory Wheel + OEM Michelin Tire + TPMS + Center Cap. Excellent condition. Local pickup only near NYC. I used it as a spare but I have a donut now to save space. $180 OBO

The CMax not only accumulates leaves but also salt / dust under the hood. I had to add insulation foam to reduce the amount of salt/dust under the hood.

Has anybody changed brake fluid themselves with their high mileage CMax? what about transmission fluid? There are many high mileage C-Max (running or retired) taxis from NYC that are not mentioned here. They sometimes appear on CL with 200K + miles

Update: I found where the horn is. It's on he Right side and is accessible by removing the long plastic cover underneath on the front of the car. I had a loose connector and the horn was working intermittently. It is fixed now. I had to remove the same plastic cover when I added foglights to my SE

Hi, can anyone tell me exactly where the horn is located and how do I access it? Thanks.

There are plenty of NYC C-Max cabbies with 200K + miles. I bet you 95% of them haven't changed their coolant. Your dealer is a rip off.

Yes, my rear rotors look like crap with plenty of pad materials left. Once in a while I coast in Neutral and stomp on the brake to make sure they are still working flawlessly. Brakes don't get hot at all even at 90+F ambient temp. My daily brake score is about 90 - 95%

Definitely not a tough job if they are using Motorcraft blades. GoodYear Costco wiper blade will fit on driver side only I believe.

I'd stick with original Motorcraft pads since there is no brake dust at all

I have added two backup cameras and mounted the lens on the sides of the handle. Popping the panels off without breaking the clips is the hardest part. The sound of panel coming off is not pleasant. A set of panel removal tool will help you but I didn't have any when I removed my panels. One of my cameras is for backward view recording and the other one is for a wide angle backup camera. Both were inexpensive.

The rear rotors will crap out before the pads are worn out. Your car is safe to be driven despite the rotors appearing worn. Motorcraft brake parts are not that expensive online but it's up to you if you want to get the parts & repairs done at the dealer. My dealer wanted to charge me $500 or so replacing the rear rotors/pads. Plus 3 Golfer, I bought a cheapo ELM327 scanner but it is not compatible with Forscan. How much do I have to spend to get a OBDII bluetooth scanner that is recognizable by Forscan? I'm currently using Torque but it does not give me all the information. BTW, I can't drive with 48PSI over here in NY/NJ since the roads are too rough. I retreated to factory 38PSI

I changed a set of Range Rover Evoque Brakes and they look almost identical to the CMax's brakes. The Evoque has Ford Calipers. I don't think the CMax's brakes are any special you should be able to find parts in Europe for it.

I wouldn't need park assist but the new driver in the household would benefit from this. I can't think of a cheaper used car that has this available feature besides the C-Max.