ptjones

It sounds like what mine does, so at 78Kmi. I guess that's normal. :) Paul

When possible I try to use up the HVB before I get to the top of a hill so I can get the maximum of regen braking and use down hill assist If I need to. That way you get the most for your EV miles. :) :shift: Paul

It's has been 5 days without a wrench symbol so I will chalk it up to getting the HVB to low from EV+. :) Paul

Thursday Night it is suppose to get down to 28*F so I might try it out. :) Paul

Are you worried about door opening with hitch bike rack. I think it can be disabled. The extra weight makes the Hatch close good every time. :) Paul

I have a problem sometimes with door all the way up that it will come down a ways which is annoying, but I think it is cause by having the extra weight of bike rack attached to it. I will push it back up and then push on door button for five seconds until beeps to reset it. Sometimes that works. :) Paul

It sounds like you plan on doing this at home, so I would recommend what I did the only time I had a dead 12v from leaving the ACC on. At home in the garage I don't lock the doors so I can open the hood easily and connect up regular battery charger to + post and neg post under the hood. If you need to look at Owners Manual. After 15min. I was able to start ICE with charger still connected. This way you never have to connect it up until you need it. I think the simplest solution should always work. Worst case you might have to allow it to charge longer than fifteen minutes. :) Paul

A ICE Block Heater is probably the best, most efficient way to heat the ICE. Unfortunately it is the most difficult solution if it doesn't come stock with one. Oil Pan Heater is the easiest solution, but there is limited space on the bottom of Oil Pan(125W) so that limits size of Heater. But an additional Oil Pan Heater can be applied to back side of Block fairly easily that could have twice Wattage(250W of the Oil Pan Heater.This could have substantial heating capability. Wire heat tape is another option that would be relatively easy to do, but not very efficient getting heat into the block and not sure what the long term effects on the hoses would be. The radiator hose circulating heater wouldn't be bad if you can get to circulate coolant into the block. I don't know if there are any room constraints. IMO :) Paul

A ICE Block Heater is probably the best, most efficient way to heat the ICE. Unfortunately it is the most difficult solution if it doesn't come stock with one. Oil Pan Heater is the easiest solution, but there is limited space on the bottom of Oil Pan(125W) so that limits size of Heater. But an additional Oil Pan Heater can be applied to back side of Block fairly easily that could have twice Wattage(250W of the Oil Pan Heater.This could have substantial heating capability. Wire heat tape is another option that would be relatively easy to do, but not very efficient getting heat into the block and not sure what the long term effects on the hoses would be. The radiator hose circulating heater wouldn't be bad if you can get to circulate coolant into the block. I don't know if there are any room constraints. IMO :) Paul

We have other Threads on this subject which mention eBay prices starting at $35 for A5 Nav Card. I don't see any reason to complain at that price. IMO :) Paul

You could read the Thread "Possible solution for dead battery problem" and fix the problem yourself. IMO :) Paul

hope these pics will work. FORD CMAX ICE Block HeaterRear Side of ICE block with freeze plug hole upper left. Exhaust manifold up above.ICE Block Heater installed center right.Showing smooth area where oil pan heater could be installed.Turned 1/2" to 3/8" adapter into 14mm Allen socket wrench. Had to do this to have enough room to remove freeze plug. :)

With 78K mi. I had the wrench light on two mornings in a row. In both case HVB SOC was low from EV+ ing home. Both times ICE came on immediately so turned off car and turned back on with no wrench. Next two mornings HVB SOC was higher and no wrench. I might get a handle on this if it happens again. IMO :) Paul

I hope these pics will work. FORD CMAX ICE Block Heater Rear Side of ICE bloke with freeze plug hole upper left. Exhaust manifold up above. ICE Block Heater installed center right. Showing smooth area where oil pan heater could be installed. Turned 1/2" to 3/8" adapter into 14mm Allen socket wrench. Had to do this to have enough room to remove freeze plug. :) Paul

I have had a few oil changes and no problems. Good job on wiring cover. I would install another Oil Pan Heater to back side of block, could use a bigger one, more Wattage there. :) Paul

Interesting idea, I wonder how hot the tape can get and rubber isn't a great conductor of heat. I still believe installing second Pan Heater on back side of block would be the easiest and most beneficial solution. I will post a picture soon. :) Paul

Thermostat doesn't open until around 182*F and fully open at 202*F. The coolant and Block are cooler at the bottom of Block and it takes a minute for Hot Oil and heat from ICE to start heating things up. I would guess that you would still see a 60*F rise in WT when temps are much colder. :) Paul

You could get a ScanGauge II so you could monitor all ICE and Batt. #s, that's what I have. :) Paul

With only the 125W Oil Pan Heater when I get home or work I plug it in immediately and just leave it on until I leave in the morning. It doesn't draw every much power and I see 21-23*F increase WT over ambient temp. It is a completely different story with Block and Oil Pan Heaters together, it only takes 2hrs to get 60*F rise in temps. Together they use 575W, way more than Oil Pan Heater alone. Interesting note WT drops about 10*F when the ICE starts, but quickly heats back up. :) Paul

Did some testing with Block heater and Oil Pan Heater. I ran Block Heater alone for one hour 69*F to 104*F WT. Then both Oil Pan and Block Heaters from 80*F to 107*F WT in one hour with OT of 72*F. Continued for another hour to 137*F WT and then another hour to 141*F. It looks like two hours is the most you want to run it normally, waist of money after that. I was thinking about making a temp controller and timer. At thoughts temps you should get instant heat from the heater. :) Paul