plus 3 golfer

Motorcraft® MERCON® LV Automatic Transmission Fluid XT-10-QLVC Motor/Generator Coil Temp over TempMotor/Generator Coil Temp > 140 deg C OR Transmission Oil Temp > 115 deg C So, it looks like the transmission fluid runs fairly cool compared to engine coolant based on the setting for the transmission over temp. It also looks like the transmission fluid is lower viscosity than the engine oil.

Short answer is do nothing and the battery will likely make it past 250 k miles. "Ford's confidence in lithium-ion is based on so-called Key Life Tests. The tests predict that the working capacity (y-axis) of lithium-ion batteries (green line) will be greater over a high-mileage lifetime (x-axis) than that of nickel-metal hydride (yellow line). Past field data for nickel-metal hydride (blue dots) has shown that the testing results are conservative -- that is, batteries generally do better in the field than they do on tests." (Source: Ford Motor Co.)

WOW, really way to much extra. Here's FordPartsGiant.com prices along with retail prices. Like I said before different grades should be about the same price (like Walmart Mobil 1). Full synthetic looks to be about $2+ more per quart.

The Energi is a great car but no need to guess (especially optimistically :)) at the specs. It's 7 HP more for the Energi in charge depletion mode according to the 2015 specs. Otherwise, the HP is the same as the Hybrid in charge sustain mode. I would have likely bought the Energi but when I made my purchase in Dec. 2012, the overall after tax cost of the Energi would have been over $2 k more and the cargo area is small to begin with in the Hybrid. I think I would have been disappointed with the Energi cargo area as the extra height in Hybrid allows larger items like a clothes washer to barely clear in the Hybrid which would be a no-go in the Energi. MBR, if I had an 8 miles commute, I'd get the Energi. In the winter in PA, the Hybrid FE will drop significantly especially for an 8 mile commute. So, with the Energi, you'll be able to save even more on fuel and be able to heat the cabin with cheap power from your local utility rather than expensive gasoline.

I didn't say it did. You wanted to know potential disadvantages of using 0W vs 5W. I did state we don't know the "virgin" TBN of the oils. From Blackstone: "What is a TBN, and who uses it? In short, a TBN (total base number) measures the amount of active additive left in a sample of oil. The TBN is useful for people who want to extend their oil usage far beyond the normal range." The $ discussion was on a potential disadvantage of using a lower weight oil was price or cost to the consumer over the life of ownership and the reason manufacturers might not want to spec lower weight oil. I don't see that unless one is comparing conventional / semi synthetic vs synthetic. I simply added that with respect to oil change maintenance that extending the OCI is where the larger savings can occur and that over the years IMO is why car manufacturers and oil companies continue to develop better oils so that OCIs can be extended (the TBN left in the used oil is a determinant as to oil life). The "better" oils (allowing use of lower weight oil) may also increase FE slightly and help with meeting CAFE.

You mean increase? Governments indirectly in tightening emissions standards "forced" manufacturers to build better engines to reduce emissions and thus requiring oils that could handle tighter engine tolerances, higher temps and so forth. Car makers and oil manufacturers had to come up with more durable oils. The benefit of better oil was that manufacturers found they could extend the OCIs if they desired to. I think it was GM that first introduced the OLM quite a while ago and extended OCIs. IMO, it was a marketing ploy to have longer OCI as manufacturers could tout reduced maintenance costs.

Mobil1 0W20 AFE and Mobil1 5W20 are the same price at Walmart. Isn't the price of Motorcraft full synthetic 5W20 and 0W20 the same. Even if there is a difference, I doubt paying a few $ per quart every 10k miles for 100k miles makes a difference. The big savings to the consumer comes from extending the OCI and IMO, is the reason many manufacturer's have modified their oil specs so that they can increase the OCI.

We don't know all the specs. For example, maybe the TBN of a 0W20 is lower than a 5W20 and thus may not "last as long" if one is trying to stretch the OCI. We don't know the volatility of the oils and perhaps 0W20 has more volatiles which may require adding more make up oil. My guess is that most manufacturers' recommended oil is based on fairly severe operating conditions and they may not be concerned about perhaps very slight FE improvements of a lower weight oil or perhaps haven't yet developed a spec for a lower weight oil for their branded oil. I think one will see most manufacturers recommend lower weight oils as CAFE targets increase. Ford now has a spec.for 0W20 and recommends it for all MY C-Maxes.

In general, most likely true especially within a manufacturer's product line but there's a range of kinematic viscosity that will meet the broad SAE viscosity grades like 0W, 5W and so forth. So the kinematic velocity at 40 C (the low SAE range) and at 100 C (the high SAE range) are likely not the same for the same grade oils. To get the correct picture especially among manufacturers, one needs to look at the kinematic viscosity / viscosity index of each oil. Rather than repeat what I said before, here's my take on viscosity in this thread in particular post 23. So, there could be a 5W20 oil with a high viscosity index that will provide better FE than a 0W20 based on ones normal operating conditions and there could be a 0W20 oil that provides better FE over the entire range of normal operating temperatures. I want an oil with the lowest kinematic viscosity at 40 C, about average at 100 C that should result in a very high kinematic viscosity index. Generally, this should provide better FE over my average operating conditions and better durability (and better lubrication) under extreme operating conditions like 110 F ambient climbing long, 6% grades at 80 mph. :)

You need to provide the source of your facts. Otherwise, it's heresay. I'd say the Oak Ridge boys are pretty smart and credible. Just got a new smartphone and I was surprised that the lithium ion battery when inserted showed around a 50+ % charge (can't recall exact number but it was in the 50s). I don't think it's just coincidence that Ford limits the Hybrid HVB operations between 30-70% SOC, normally operates the battery between mid-high 30s to mid - high 50s % SOC (based on my many observations and recordings of SOC) and that Ford's key life tests (curves) reported before show very little battery degradation over several 100k miles.

Yes, that's what I've used for my oil changes since new (coming up on 4th change). There have been several thread on the subject of which oil to use and potential benefits of various oils with different viscosity. :) According to Mobil with respect to FE: *Savings would be based on 0.2-2.3 percent potential fuel economy improvement obtained by switching from higher viscosity oils to a 0W-20 or 0W-30 grade..." So, don't expect any savings from other similar viscosity synthetic oils.

Look on e-bay. Here's an OEM CD and another. Note one has to change the date if beyond expiration. You probably can find illegal copies of the OEM CD for even less.

FYI, the capacity of the Hybrid HVB is 1.4 kWh. SOC is measured in % not kWh. The operating range of the HVB will never be greater than around 0.56 kWh (from about 70% maximum SOC to around 30% minimum SOC). The battery gauge does not show a true SOC of the battery but rather is an indication of the operating range of the HVB where when the battery tip is full = about 70 % SOC.

I thought both have the auxiliary coolant circuit. But after looking at the service manual only the NRG has it. :)

IMO, why not simply close the passenger vents (that can be closed) and use the mono temperature mode for conditioning. In that way perhaps more heated air would be directed to the driver side and there should be no "individual" blending of air by the passenger or driver side temperature door actuators. But isn't the "real" issue of efficiency, the heating of the cabin when the coolant is not up to a certain temperature such that the auxiliary climate control (electric resistance heating) is used in the coolant loop? I doubt much will be gained in efficiency until the coolant temperature reaches the point where the resistance elements are not needed to heat the coolant to the heater core. There is a diverter valve in the coolant loop that recirculates coolant in a closed loop through the cabin coolant heater / pump and heater core until the coolant circulating through ICE reaches a certain temperature. At that time the diverter valve allows the normal ICE coolant circuit to the heater core and resistance heating of the coolant should cease. Of course we all know ways to get ICE up to operating temperature faster which should decrease the time resistance heating of the coolant is necessary.

I wouldn't post my phone number on a forum. You might want to use a PM to the Ford rep. although you may need a few more "test" posts to be able to PM. :) It's not clear to me whether the dead batteries relate to towing only or seem to be a random event.

In ready to drive mode, apparently the car will continue to have power if you.don't open / close a door. "Accessory Mode Battery Saver forIntelligent Access Keys (If Equipped)If you leave the ignition on after leavingyour vehicle, it will shut off 15 minutes afteryou close all of the doors." I have seen the battery saver message several times also but I have also worked for quite some time (more than 15 minutes) without the battery saver message coming on. I don't recall whether I used accessory mode or left the car in ready to drive mode with door open since I was getting in / out of vehicle.

Fuel injectors should be covered under the 3/36 B2B as I don't see it specifically excluded from coverage. But, fuel injectors are not shown as covered under the 5/60 Powertrain warrant;y. The 2013 and 2014 Warranty documents are attached. 13hybwa2e.pdf14hybwa1e.pdf

When I've looked before when ICE was up to operating temperature, idle fuel burn flips between 0.5 and 0.6 gallons/hour. RPM is about 1050ish and SOC increasing starting from high 30%. It's virtually impossible to get accurate measurements since ICE shuts off after several seconds when starting with accelerator pushed to floor (I assume since SOC is "fine" and ICE doesn't need to run). I don't recall what the HP or torque values of ICE were. The question is at what SOC would trigger ICE to come on and shut down when the car is in ready to drive mode. From what I recall as I stated above ICE will not stay running with SOC in the high 30s. So, I doubt one will see much of a SOC increase say 3-4% or about 50 Wh and based on my observation likely no more than 100 Wh. If AC, fan an other system loads are 500 W continuous with ambient at 100*F, that's about 6 -12 minutes to deplete the 50 - 100 Wh. I would also guess that ICE/MG1 should quickly replace those Wh. I think worst case might be a few tenths of a gallon an hour. Then, one gallon of gas might give you 5+ hours of AC use. Another way to look at this is 1 gallon of gas has about 33.7 kWh of energy. Assume ICE at idle is very inefficient and that only 10% of the energy in the fuel is used to charge the HVB at idle. So, that's 3.37 kWh per gallon. Divide the 3.37 kWh by the load of 0.5 kW and one gets 6.7 hours of AC per gallon of gas.

It depends on conditions. The electrics can help with FE to an extent on the highway but not like in city / suburban driving . In general, at highway cruising speeds ICE in hybrids and non-hybrids should be operating at high efficiency. Thus, FE can be similar in both at high speeds. In either, one can employ hypermiling techniques and increase FE. Since the hybrid can store energy, it should have an advantage over a non-hybrid especially in rolling terrain where road load varies which may be offset by the increased weight of the hybrid over the non-hybrid. But, a $6 k price difference is hard to make up in a hybrid even with a $4 gas price. $6 k buys 1500 gallons of gas. At 30 mpg in a non-hybrid and 40 mpg in a hybrid, that's a simple payback at 180,000 miles (no time value of money) to break even. Even if the numbers were 35 mpg vs 50 mpg, the payback is still high at 175,000 miles. But, as others have said there are other reasons to buy the C-Max over a non-hybrid.

According to the Workshop Manual, it appears that it is broken if you can't turn off AC. Pushing G button should only use AC if the AC is turned on. So, you should be able to push the AC button to turn it off if it's on. Of course it won't be the first time that Ford has had software issues. ;) I don't recall ever using the G button so I can't tell you how mine works. FLOOR-DEFROST When FLOOR/DEFROST mode is selected: the recirculated air request button is enabled. If the recirculated air request button is selected (indicator on), the air inlet door closes, preventing outside air from entering the passenger compartment. If the recirculated air request button is not selected (indicator off), the air inlet door opens, allowing only outside air into the passenger compartment.the footwell vent doors and defrost vent/register doors operate in combination to direct airflow to the floor duct, the defroster duct and the side window demisters.blended air temperature is available. Only when A/C electric compressor operation has been selected by pressing the A/C button (indicator on) can the airflow temperature be cooled below the outside air temperature.the blower motor is on and the speed is adjustable. MAX DEFROST When MAX DEFROST mode is selected: the recirculated air request button is disabled. The air inlet door opens, allowing only outside air into the passenger compartment.the footwell vent doors and defrost vent/register doors operate in combination to direct airflow to the defroster duct and side window demisters. A small amount of airflow from the floor duct is present.the A/C is turned on in defrost mode. The A/C electric compressor operates as long as the outside temperature is above approximately 35.6 °F ( 2 °C).the temperature is set to the highest setting and is not adjustable.the fan is set to the highest speed and is not adjustable.MAX DEFROST can be exited by pressing the AUTO button.

What PSI should I run - probably one of the most debatable subjects on car forums. The picture below describes my experience with pressure in tires for about 40 years. :)

MG1 is used to start ICE, as a generator charging the HVB, and to control the overall gear ratio of the hybrid transaxle. MG1 speed has to change for the overall gear ratio to change. Changing ICE rpm alone does not affect the overall gear ratio. I think what's confusing is there are two parts to the Hybrid transaxle - Cinematic chain (mechanical components - the plantetary gear set) and the Variator components (MG1, MG2, and power electronics). I'm fairly sure I attached the paper below before as it explains these components and the relationship or speed (rpm) and torque in the Hybrid transaxle. It's the electrical components (specifically MG1 via the power electronics) that varies the overall gear ratio of the C-Max not the mechanical components. Comparison of Hybrid Transmissions.pdf

I just checked some of my recorded data and computed the C-Max overall gear ratio when in negative split mode using tire revolutions of 803 rev. per mile, eco-cruise set at 55 mph and 65 mph, and SOC constant. In both the 55 mph and 65 mph data, the overall gear ratio is about 2.2:1 - 2.25:1 (ICE rpm varies somewhat +-20 rpm or so). For comparison, a 2010 VW Jetta DSG TDI has an overall ratio of 2.31:1 in 6th gear. The manual transmission has an overall ratio of 1.99:1 in sixth gear. So, assuming that the C-Max ratio in negative split mode is the numerically minimum gear ratio (best for FE when cruising) of the C-Max, the C-Max ratio compares favorably to the Jetta DSG TDI ratio.