jestevens

I write software for a living too so I'm sort of used to the abuse. The sequence looks complicated when it's written out but in reality it all happens in two minutes, maybe less without thinking about it, until I start swearing when the alarm goes off. I think in the past I've done it without opening the back hatch too, I'll have to test it more. To me the overriding factor should be that when you legally press the UNLOCK button my expectation would be that the alarm should be disabled, apparently that's not happening in this case. With the C-MAX you even get the benefit of having the RF key to check for (if equipped) but maybe they don't count on that being there for folks who have the standard key.

I think I finally was able to duplicate my issue.. Try this.. 1) Car in Park, engine still on 2) Press button to open hatch 3) Press Engine button to turn car off 4) Open Driver's door 5) Press LOCK button on driver's door 6) Forget that your jacket is in the back seat and press the UNLOCK button 7) Get out of the driver's side and open rear left passenger door, leave driver door open to press LOCK button after you retrieve items from back seat 8) Within two seconds after pulling left rear passenger door alarm goes off At this point front driver, rear left side passenger and rear hatch doors are open. 9) Say Curse Words 10) Rush to sit in open driver position 11) On dash appears "Key not detected" or some crap 12) Press button to start engine 13) Alarm shuts off I think it's a bug in the software - since the car has proximity antennas all around it to detect the RF key it -should- know the key is still present near the vehicle and can avoid stupid behavior I see other cars' alarm systems exhibit, but apparently not.

My favorite line from the article I read is that someone couldn't drive and was stranded on the side of the road because their GPS wouldn't update? So you have no clue how to get back to a major highway? I've driven the C-MAX a handful of times while SYNC maintenance was going on and it's a little weird but they very purposefully separated the systems that drive the car from the infotainment computer. Maybe as a result of the incident referenced in the article..

..the sad thing is I think it's one of the better ones I've used. I wasn't that impressed with first generation entune or the chevy one. I personally think the interface isn't bad, they've organized the screen into big quadrants that are easy to hit. The major problem is that it's just too slow to update, when you're driving down the road that's a bad thing. I also see a few glitches that have that "Microsoft" feel to them but for the most part it works okay. It's a horrible waste of space but I'm sort of glad they have some physical controls as well, I still find myself reaching for the knobs rather than taking my eyes off the road.

I think I must like the electric torque too much..

With a hybrid the whole car is set up to make it as easy to "coast" as long as possible, my experience has been that traditional tires are a lot "stickier" than LRR tires and defeats the ability to coast by a significant amount - you will use more throttle to get the car up to speed from a stop and probably also need to maintain enough throttle to be forced to use ICE while driving as well. I don't know if there is another LRR formulation that works better for back roads but I have noticed that it is true LRR tires don't seem to last as long as the others.

The SEL with the upgraded Sony system and MFT has the most audio input types I've ever seen on a production car - the only one you haven't mentioned is the composite A/V Line in which is also inside the storage for the center armrest. My USB stick was never indexed more than once for each device, are you sure you are using a FAT32 formatted stick? Admittedly I haven't added new content to the USB in a while. The Bluetooth client implementation in the audio playback app you are using can make a serious difference. Bluetooth playback in Spotify was horrible - it would stutter or track commands would cease to function, the audio would switch from stereo to mono for no reason, Google Play Music worked a lot better. Model of Phone also makes a difference, if you have a phone with a small amount of RAM (e.g. 512MB) for example it can have trouble with playback sometimes. SD Card is usually used by the GPS for Nav data so that's probably out. The only other inputs I know about in general that the car does not have are optical or HDMI and neither of those would seem to get you any better improvement over the others in terms of what you'd normally be doing with it. Maybe you can find a 3.5" jack at 90 degrees or something? When you close the center armrest you are routing the cable through the little holes so it doesn't get pinched? Is it a CD drive or a DVD drive? Probably CD. I just wonder because of the A/V composite inputs. I never tried this but if it's a DVD you could store significantly more data.

I thought my HHR would be a cool car to bring to the drive in but it turns out there are two map lights in the rear view that you couldn't disable if any door, including the back hatch was open - I had to pull a fuse. It didn't really work out well to sit in the back because the drive-in had a rule that the hatch couldn't be higher than the roof line of the car.

If the car is in accessory mode (don't hold down the brake while pressing the engine start button) I don't think it should shut off unless the battery is getting really low? Although I would just bring a nice radio and some folding chairs along and not worry about it. Actually everyone else will have their radio on too, so if you don't mind the lag you can hear it that way. One thing I've noticed is that people seem to have no idea about all the headlights, parking lights, DRLs, courtesy lights, beepers, security strobes, etc. on their new cars - which become very apparent at the drive-in. Also, some folks enjoy smoking and many children have an early bed time - but that's all part of the experience and it's still pretty nice if the weather is good and you are a patient person who takes all of that into consideration. Some of the children had neat 360 degree LED sneakers that were very nice for being able to see your way to the concession stand in the dark. If you don't have a former rental fleet car hopefully you can use the headlight switch on the dash to disable the lights.. It would be nice to leave it in READY (Engine full start mode) so that the 12V doesn't run down, and theoretically the gas engine wouldn't run that much with big draw items like AC turned off but I think some drive ins have a prohibition about running the engine a lot due to the fumes and noise. Hope it goes well.

I used to see problems with track updates on MP3 CDs, a few glitches with XM titles when the XM free preview was on - I just figure it waits until it hears from the Satellite about station and track info after tuning in, no problem with FM bands being updated though. I had to eject MP3 CD today and remount it so it would read properly. Display said "Track 0" with no title. I am glad there is extended warranty on APIM because over the last few years I just chalked it up to poorly debugged software (it -is- made by Microsoft after all) - the display would be a little weird but it never failed to play. Lately the "radio" seems a little more hesitant to work than usual. My friend has a new Mercedes where the radio freezes more often than not when XM sends a channel update command to the radio. Apparently they added more channels to their line up than the engineers had developed the software to support and it was running out of memory. It took me a while to convince him that his "radio" was more like a computer than a radio in new cars.

I was going slow because I didn't want to wreck stuff. I had to find the right Torx bit, I don't have a plastic rivet pop tool, headlight assemblies aren't cheap, and I'm sure I heard some adhesive letting go when I was lifting up on the cowling probably but in the end it looks about the same as factory installed side still so hopefully all is well, find out for sure in the next rain storm.

Thanks Kelleytoons! , I saw another video they have that seems pretty good on replacing the cabin filter - although they show taking the whole glove box out to get to it - makes me realize just how modular the car really is - everything is bolted on.

It doesn't need enough amps to actually crank the engine, it only needs enough 12V power to close the relays and run the computer(s) reliably which can then command electric motor to use HVB power to spin the crankshaft and start the engine. So it doesn't surprise me that it didn't take long to start after you gave it a good source of 12V power. The 12V DC converter probably can power the computer and accessories while the car is started but whatever is going on your 12V battery is either being drained or can no longer hold a charge after it is turned off. Unless you can give it to the dealer to troubleshoot and get a rental or use an alternate car I would invest in one of those 12V jumpstart packs just so you aren't stranded accidently. I have a 2013 SEL and they tell me my original 12V battery is "Good" as of "The Works" yesterday. Our winter climate here in PA is still mild compared to MN - typically we measure snow in inches and total is a few feet per season. - last year was unusual in that we seemed to get all of the snow for the season in one storm. Batteries seem to last longer when they are in the trunk rather than the engine but they still have a finite life.

I think the paragraph before that line is talking about if any of you already had the repair performed and were charged for the work before the recall came out you can submit documentation for reimbursement from Ford by October 31, 2016. If they are saying it the -other- way, given that it's a safety issue and they don't even have parts for a repair yet that seems pretty unreasonable so I think the notice is just poorly worded.

I just replaced my passenger side turn signal light too - $5 and 40 minutes later.. I couldn't figure out how to disengage the electrical connector on the assembly either - doing it blind with no way to get a flat tool around to the bottom very well. I was able to still get to the back of the housing for the turn signal bulb anyway. All seems working now, I'll know for sure after the first rain storm. It's kind of interesting to note just what flexes on the car body and what does not. https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2013_Ford_C-Max_Hybrid_SEL_2.0L_4_Cyl./lights/headlight#

I -wish- mine would say "Soon" - it always says "Required" and catches me off guard. Last few times it was close to 10K but I guess because of the extra hot summer and the fact that I was driving and idling the car more than usual with the AC on I got an extra early warning this time.. It's an electric AC compressor but the engine still works harder. My commute to work is only about 20 minutes so that probably doesn't help, although in the mornings I can almost coast to work 65-75F - 50MPG, afternoons have been brutal with the temps in the 90's - 34-40MPG.. Might've been 3K this time since my last change - I'll have to check my last service receipt with the actual mileage.

The Gen 2 Prius initially had an issue with the lights and to get Toyota to replace a headlight was like $325 -for one- because their official shop manual said you need to take off the front bumper cover, take out the entire headlight assembly, then change the bulb (something like a $200 part for Xenon HID) and reassemble. With enough googling you can figure out Amazon sells the bulb for $80 and if you had small hands, a mirror and a lot of patience it is possible to replace the bulb "by feel" without removing the headlight assembly. But when they go out, they go out - completely, You can restart them but each time the duration they burn is less. If you keep trying to turn them on eventually you will wear out the starter mechanism which is even MORE expensive to replace. It is true that safety should trump everything else, but more than likely that is what you were seeing. The HHR you used to have to turn the wheels to pop some plastic rivets, reach up under and behind the wheel well cover to get to the bulb. In my old Cavalier you could change the headlight in the 30 seconds or less just by raising the hood. I think as headlight life has gotten better they make them harder to access, also easier for the shop to make some money.

Now that we are out of winter has MPG improved? Don't try to hypermile from a stop, accelerate smoothly up to whatever cruising speed you desire, back off the gas slightly and then apply firm steady pressure to the pedal. On a level piece of ground, the car will go into EV, The whole thing is designed to maximize your ability to coast for as long as possible to get the best mileage. Anticipate red lights and adjust your speed accordingly so you can either make the green light or brake smoothly to a stop to maximize regen (but not so much that it irritates the drivers behind you). Make sure you have low rolling resistance tires on the car, non LRR tires are stickier and defeat the ability of the car to coast. People seem to say the OEM tires are the best. You can try using the MyView "Coach" to help you see where you might improve your driving style. As others have said, it has to warm up the catalytic converter and in the winter also runs the engine to provide cabin heat. My winter MPG is around 34MPG, lately with it being super hot on the East Coast my MPGs have been terrible in the afternoon from running the AC compressor hard (again in the 30s but still better than a traditional gas engine car). Spring/Fall/Summer mileage is around 41MPG, stock configuration, but I like the "performance" aspect of the car more than some other folks. Considering that the best gas crossover vehicles get in the mid 20's on the highway I still think I'm doing pretty good and it's enjoyable to drive. I was once able to get 30MPG out of my HHR (similar to the Vibe) but I had to go on a very flat stretch of highway for a very long time to do so, typical MPG in the HHR was 25MPG.

Yes, it more or less -has- to prove the engine and warm up the catalytic converter on start up most times anyway so why not use more battery at the end of a trip and use the next warm up cycle to charge the battery since the engine is going to have to run regardless? That's one reason EV+ is on the hybrid I'm sure. There are pure electric cars but the C-MAX is not one of them, I still like it a lot.

I think it's still too early to tell just how long the Ford battery packs will last, most of the design included with this generation are still under warranty. The Prius has been around longer and hence some of those packs are finally starting to reach their end of life through normal means. There is probably more than one reason EV+ was included, it makes a great marketing feature, it might contribute to safety -or- longevity by giving the lithium packs a lower SoC while they are at rest, it gives folks a little more EV without having to push an actual EV button. We'll know for sure once some of the packs truly reach their end of life.

Ford Engineers chose to use Lithium Ion packs instead of the more traditional NiMH packs Toyota has been using, I guess they think they are going to be even more durable, therefore they can use the battery more aggressively. Over on priuschat the toyota NiMH packs seem to be lasting a long time, about 10-15 years and at least 100,000mi .. Of course the SoC range does go down over the life of the vehicle until they get the dreaded Triangle of Death. Pay $1500 for a refurb or $4000 for a new pack, trade up.. Who knows how long the Li-on packs will last? It's still a newer technology - maybe cab drivers in NYC? I still like the car a lot better than most others on the road - it's a good value - the only thing I've ever really had the car in for is oil change, tires and module reprogramming (free).. http://www.designnews.com/author.asp?doc_id=256425

Here is the warranty guide for the 2013 Hybrid.. http://www.ford.com/resources/ford/general/pdf/2013HybridWarranty.pdf It says New York adopted the Emission Standards but not the California Emissions warranty. It also says that non-functioning battery pack due to gradual loss over time or "improper storage" is not covered. So basically if you have a sudden unexpected pack that won't hold a charge it's covered..? Here's the other article I found.. http://cmaxchat.com/?p=766 The simple explanation I have is that EV+ uses your car's GPS (yes, it has a GPS) to figure out places where you park 11 or more times in a row. When it senses you coming close to one of these places it allows more range on pure EV to draw the pack down, knowing that it is likely the next time you start the car up the engine will be "cold" and it can charge the pack up while it's going through an engine warm up cycle. The battery is probably "happier" at a lower state of charge while it is in a resting state (but not discharged) The first time I drove a C-MAX I couldn't get over the whiny engine noise either but that was pretty much because the battery was at a low SoC on a car that hadn't been driven in a while - normal use I find that my engine doesn't sound like it has a huge load at idle. I was impressed with the performance of the car - it does use the battery more than the Prius does. I've had both vehicles and you can pretty much guarantee that at least for Gen II the Prius ICE kicks in around 40MPH because of the way the PSD is designed. It's still a great sedan, but I love the C-MAX crossover a lot more than the Prius v wagon - I test drove the v wagon and it had -no- power - it was like someone just took the standard prius drivetrain and added 2,000lbs. Prius also has a thermos where it can store warm coolant to jump start warming up the engine from a cold start and PTC electric heaters to supplement engine heat in the passenger compartment. I think only the Energi has electric heater, the regular C-MAX hybrid for whatever reason only has engine heat available.

If you are concerned about the reliability of your battery pack Ford warrants the hybrid system components for 8 years or 100,000mi in all states and 10 years/150,000mi in certain other states (but unfortunately not New York). I would expect typical replacement cost to be around $4K, same as buying a new transmission for a similar non-hybrid auto.

My experience has different with Ford Service because I found a smaller dealer in a rural area. The reason I trust the service department there is because they were able to reprogram the BCM to turn off my DRLs. It's a small thing but they could have easily said, "We can't figure it out". But they listened to my concern and it was no problem for their service manager. They also did 3-4 recalls (including airbag replacement) and an oil change in one day for me. I once needed to make an appointment at later hours so I scheduled service with one of their high volume dealerships (5 time Presidential award winner or something) and had a terrible experience. I had inspection, oil change, tires replaced and an alignment done, waited quite a while and they never showed me any paperwork from the alignment, the notes didn't record the tire wear,,. I don't think the advisor was being untruthful but it would have been nice to see -something- for the $90 cost of that alignment which he first said would be free with the tires. If you find an independent mechanic who specializes in the car that's one thing but I'll never forget the look of bewildered amazement on the face of those guys when they lifted the hood of the Prius and were trying to find where the battery terminals were..

I took my Prius to an independent garage once and I didn't realize it at the time but the 12V battery was weak so they couldn't get it started. I eventually got the car started under its own power but the look on the mechanics' faces as they tried to find the battery to jump start the car under the hood was enough to make me never take it back there again. At least they are telling you they don't want to work on it, There are multiple computers in that car and they are all easy to fry if you introduce voltage the wrong way. Having said that I did give someone a jump start one time and never had a problem, I guess I was lucky that my friend didn't gun the engine and cause a bunch of current to come back through the other way. I actually had small issues with the Toyota service manager too, they were trying to save me money by using multi-spec ATF fluid but Toyota has a TSB about using very specific fluid in the Prius. Save $20 in ATF fluid in order to pay $3K for a new transaxle later when the insulation on the motor windings shorts out. So far the Ford techs seem to be doing okay with the C-MAX, then again for being such an "unreliable" car the only time mine sees the garage is for oil changes and tires.