DR61

When you are completely off the accelerator pedal, there is light regeneration (the ^ symbol on top of battery is on). That is not true coasting. When you put the shifter into N, then you have true coasting with no regeneration. In N only aero drag and bearing/tire drag is slowing the car. You can try this on a flat road with no traffic: drive at 30 mph, lift off at some reference point, and note how far the car goes before it hits 20 mph. Try it in D and N and you will see that you go many times farther in N before your speed drops to 20 mph. It is sometimes useful to use N going downhill in gently rolling terrain to maximize coasting up the next hill, if traffic safety allows. If you need more than regen to control your speed going down a steep hill, I recommend first L, then Grade Assist. The ICE may turn on to provide engine compression braking, but it will use insignificant or zero fuel.

Both C-Max models come with the Michelin Energy Saver A/S, so I don't think the type of tire is the problem. It is possible there is an individual tire out of spec of course. Our new Energi does not exhibit the characteristics described here except some correction needed in strong crosswinds, which is understandable. It is not that much different from our other car (Mini) with electric power steering. I like them both. We tested a PIP before buying the Energi and I must say the Prius steering was the worst I have tried in any car in the last 25 years. Good advice to keep after the dealer to get the steering adjusted. It should feel good at normal highway speeds in good weather.

That is pretty exceptional fuel efficiency for an ICE vehicle doing mostly 1.5 mi trips. However, I must say a better tool for that job would be an Energi. Or even better, walk.

Seems like the pump and sealer under the passenger seat should have fixed this type of leak.

Reading the manual today, it mentions in the AC section that the MAX AC button is the most efficient way to cool down a hot car, and it automatically uses Recirc for a time. It also says that for normal AC operation, setting the fan on low speed and setting a desired temperature is most efficient (presumably more efficient than Auto AC, but maybe not as effective depending on how hot it is outside).

Ford did not 'promise' 47 mpg for the C-Max Energi. Its EPA ratings are 44 city, 41 highway, and that is not a promise, it's a test result under certain conditions.

Interesting, but bottom line is recirculation uses less energy if only because the difference between air being cooled and desired inside temperature is smaller. Their initial statement ("On most cars, the compressor does the same amount of work on both settings") is just wrong, especially so for a modern AC system with an electric variable speed compressor like the C-Max has. Most likely it is correct that recirculation still allows some fresh air in, so staleness probably isn't a problem with only 1 or 2 passengers.

AC obviously takes power and reduces fuel economy in all vehicles. Once we are used to summer temperatures, we set our AC to 76-80 F for longer trips and find it comfortable. If it is somewhat cloudy with less direct sun through the windows then higher setting is OK. Also one can turn on recirculation for shorter trips with AC and that reduces power use (not advised for longer trips). Window tinting with a good quality material reduces solar heating of the interior and reduces power draw from the AC.

Ford's eCVT does not change gearing ratios. It is a planetary power-split type trans. similar to Toyota's, but with larger electric motors. Here is a description: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/hybrid-car7.htm

The Cd is about average for newer cars, but the total drag is Cd x (frontal area). The C-Max is rather tall so it has a higher frontal area compared to the Prius or Volt for example, both of which have Cd's around .25 I believe. And of course drag increases with the square of speed.

"The wax job from the factory/dealer (if any) sucked." Usually new cars are not waxed by the factory or dealer so that the paint has a chance to harden. I usually wax new cars about 5-8 weeks after the build week.

I believe the earlier Focus models used a 4-lug pattern.

Definition of COAST. To me COAST means the car rolls free with NO regeneration. Either selector is in Neutral or your right foot is at a spot in the accelerator pedal map where no regeneration is occuring. This is the most efficient mode for going downhill when you do NOT need to slow down or stop at the bottom. Great for rolling terrain. Of course if you do need to slow down or stop then you want one of the various levels of regen with minimal or no activation of the friction brakes.

In my experience, there is error in both methods for any given tank. I record both for my cars and then calculate overall average . I try to be consistant with fillup technique. After many fillups the overall average of gallons pumped and miles will be close to correct. Then error for the car's display can be calculated.

I care greatly about minimizing the use of fossil fuels, and in addition I find it fun to try to maximize the vehicle efficiency of any car I drive. I used to be a road racing driver (SCCA) and still do competitive autocross events, so I get no thrill of speed on public roads nor do I care what other drivers are doing except when they are a danger to me.

Very good info here. So I think the car has 5 mpg figures that calculate averages over different intervals: Average MPG (the one that appears in most left screens), resetable at any time (is there a mile limt?). Lifetime MPG - no mile limit, manual reset. Trip 1 MPG - resets automatically at some mileage point (999 or 9999?), or manual reset. Trip 2 MPG - (same as Trip 1). MPG summary when car turned off - resets with every Engine OFF press. Am I correct?

Good to know. My 'Private Offer' has a statement 'May not combine with other private or commercial offers ... etc.' Hard to interpret some of this fine print. Another advantage off the Energi is greatly reduced CO2 output when in EV mode. Off course if one does a very large proportion of driving in hybrid/EV later mode then the Hybrid may be the better choice. We will be doing at least 1/2 of our annual driving in EV mode, and at least 75% of that will get energy from our solar PV system. Most other electric suppliers in our area get their energy primarily from natural gas, hydro, wind, biomass, and geothermal - all sources much lower in CO2 than burning gasoline (well to wheel).

Not listed as an 'incentive' but there is also $750 Ford Private Cash that you can get (for both Energi and Hybrid) by ordering a brochure through the Ford web site. Looks like you can't combine the Private Cash with the Incentive for the Hybrid. In California the question would be 'is there a payback to get the Hybrid SEL over the Energi', since the Energi comes out less expensive after CA rebate and tax credit. Regardless, for us 'no plug, no sale.'

FoutsNC, the Escape jack worked fine on your C-Max? Do you know if the Escape spare wheel fits the C-Max hub? If so you could take those along on a long trip with the C-Max.

I've looked into this somewhat (being a stage III melanoma survivor). Normal house window glass does transmit considerable UV light. I think most standard auto glass these days has a fair amount of UV protection added as standard. However that protection can be improved substantially with various afermarket tints. I get the legal tint for side and back windows installed on our cars. Here is one reference that tested some Mercedes cars some years back: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12925188

I suggest that you use gentle pulse and glide until you have over 1000 miles. For instance, on the interstate accelerate moderately to 70 mph, then slowly ease the go pedal to around 64 mph (trying to keep the engine from shutting off), then ease back to 70. Do this in the right lane when there is not heavy traffic behind you and no car is following you too closely. In other words, alter speeds and don't run at any one speed for more than a few minutes, and don't use cruise control. After 1000 miles, I would suggest that you enable eco cruise (so speeds vary somewhat with grade) and use it when you want to rest your right foot. The Ozarks are not considered steep by our standards in the western US. Just vary your speeds in the right lane when climbing hills and that should be fine. I would configure a display to show the gas engine coolant temperature if outside temperatures are warm (not likely!).

I concur. Most modern engines are run-in at the engine factory and oil then is changed before the engines are installed in the cars. Therefore when you get your new car with zero miles the engine has already had its first oil change.

Where is the light sensor? Thanks.

In my experience the drivers who cause 'stranding' are usually NOT hypermilers, but people not paying attention to the light, and who don't start promptly when the light turns green. When leaving the light it is better technique for most cars to pulse up to speed, accelerating moderately to briskly, and then back off to cruise a longer distance to the next stop. Good hypermiling technique entails situational awarness.

I plan to buy a used Ford compact spare with correct 5-bolt pattern from eBay or a salvage yard, plus a small jack. I will carry it only when planning to drive in remote areas. I will secure it with a ratcheting strap. I did the same with our other car which also does not come with a spare (Mini Countryman).