bookemdano

per someone in the Cyanlabs discord, the 21B09 CSP has been paused again as of April 29th and ALL installations are on hold at least until the end of this month. They have extended the 21B09 program through 3/2023, but no mention if they will be expanding the number of cars receiving the free labor coverage. So at least Ford is working on this, and hopefully will get the remaining bugs worked out. Edit: In addition, Ford instructed dealers to hold off on modem swaps for C-Maxes with 4" Sync screens until a software update is released, which they expect to release this September.

Did the upgrade last night. Also seeing no change whatsoever in FordPass. I am not seeing anything missing in the JSON data either (although quite a bit of it is not applicable/incorrect). So that's sort of disappointing. But maybe Ford needs to make changes on their end before any improvement is seen on our side. Good news is that there is at least no regression from what I can tell. Everything that worked before is still working now.

Yeah, I'm not sure exactly when the -UN firmware was made available to dealerships--might have just been in the last few days. @cr08 flashed his modem with that update today, so I'm sure he will post an update once he's had time to see what (if anything) is different. Then you can decide if it's worth your while to pay another visit to the dealer to get the new software.

Aha! Now we know why Ford was "pausing" installations the past few weeks. Sucks for them that they're likely going to have to bring back every car they upgraded to apply this update. Fascinated to see what this fixes! As for the file dates, guessing that is normal for a car company--probably takes them weeks/months to QA and roll out these files after compiling 'em. Their liability would be huge if a car gets bricked (or worse, causes an accident). I assume -UM had to be ready extra early because I think they pre-flashed all the 21B09 TCUs before sending them out to dealers. @GeR2 You might want to check to see if your dealer already updated your modem with this version. It was only a week or two ago, so there is a chance that the -UN update was available in their IDS at the time (and would help explain why they thought they were doing something to fix the problem). Just hook up your OBD2 adapter to Forscan, turn car on, hit the connect button in Forscan and when it asks you if you want to load a saved profile, click No. That way Forscan will re-query each module in the car and get its current software level. Give it a minute to do that and then go to the Configuration tab and look for the TCU. -UN or -UP indicates it's been updated. -UM not.

Probably normal for the recall (well, CSP technically) to still be showing there. I would guess there is some lag time for it to show that you had it performed. Mine never showed up because for some reason my 2017 C-Max was not eligible for the program. I could have fought it out with my dealer but ultimately I was comfortable going to DIY route to save some money and hassle. So if the app is working save for lock/unlock/remote start then it sounds like you're in the exact same boat as @GeR2, in which case you can just follow the same instructions I wrote up for him. As for your specific questions: 1. The cable I linked should work fine. Forscan will complain that it's not on their list but that warning is more pertinent for people who are trying to do really demanding stuff with Forscan like firmware flashing or procedures involving the body control module. For a simple edit to a modem's as-built, you really don't need to spend $60 on the OBDLink EX (but if you think there's a chance you'll want to get further into Forscan and don't mind the cash outlay then the OBDLink EX is not a bad investment). But feel free to look around for other cables. @GeR2 bought one that can auto-switch between HS and MS-CAN, which is a handy feature (the OBDLink EX can also do this). But it's not really necessary for this specific purpose. For the ones like I linked there is a physical toggle switch that you'll need to set in the MS-CAN position for this process. You won't need to access the HS-CAN bus at all, so an auto-switching adapter isn't really a huge advantage. I recommend buying from amazon simply because their returns process is so easy just in case you get a defective cable (unlikely though). 2. As for if you have Sync 3, what size is the screen in your center stack? Is it 8" or 4.2"? The SE models came standard with the smaller screen but if they had the available equipment package they got Sync 3 and the 8" screen. Regardless, I don't think this actually has any bearing on the issue you're having with your modem. 3. Good idea, although you can simply request a new license when your 2 month trial runs out. The Forscan devs don't seem to have any problem with this--and especially now since it's not possible to buy a license even if you wanted to. 4. Yes. There are actually two OBD2 connectors--you can use either one. One is up in the footwell sort of above the brake pedal and the other is behind a plastic access door under the headlight switch. Make sure when using Forscan that you don't have anything else plugged into the other OBD2 port (very unlikely, but for instance some insurance companies provide a doohickey to plug in there in exchange for modest insurance discounts). 5. Nothing else I can think of that didn't already get addressed in my previous posts. Keep us posted!

@Nervous but Excited Did the FordPass authorization work as expected (Add your car's VIN to FordPass, sit in car with the ignition on and tap the Authorize button in FordPass, wait for the popup control request on the Sync screen & allow control, then wait for FordPass to acknowledge the authorization & refresh or close/open the app)? You might try a Sync master reset (note that this will remove your bluetooth pairing with your phone and reset some other settings) via Settings > General on the Sync screen. That will remove the FordPass authorization so you can try re-authorizing it. Do you know if there is good AT&T 4G signal coverage at your house (or wherever your car is parked)? Aside from the lock/unlock/start functions, if you tap on "Vehicle" at the bottom of the FordPass screen are you seeing any info there? If the modem is communicating with the car you should be seeing a current odometer reading, the car's current location, fuel and EV battery level/range, among other things. Are you seeing some/all of that info? The previous advice you got is good. If you want to check out the modem with Forscan you don't necessarily need to buy the $60 OBDLink EX (although it's a great adapter and works very well). A $20 USB ELM327 adapter with a physical HSCAN/MSCAN switch can work just fine for checking the modem and reconfiguring it if need be. There's a bunch of them on amazon for various prices. Just search for USB ELM327 MS-CAN and look for the ones that have a chrome metal switch next to where the cable exits the OBD2 plug. Here's one for ~$17 that should work fine (haven't used it myself but reviews look decent). As @JTEX said (and I'm sure @GeR2 would agree), the dealers aren't actually that helpful when it comes to troubleshooting this stuff. You're already ahead of the game by getting your modem & labor comped, so I'd say we can take it from here. Edit: I'm curious what the recall is that's showing in the upper left corner of your FordPass app. Is that the 21B09 CSP for this modem swap? Or does it pertain to some other Ford vehicle you have in your account?

You mean on your Sync screen? Those are AppLink apps, which require a connection with your phone. If you have an android phone I think the connection can work over bluetooth. For iPhone it must be plugged into one of the USB ports inside the center console (Ford added bluetooth AppLink for iPhones in Sync 3.4, which the C-Max cannot get officially). You also need to have the Glympse app installed on your phone I believe. That said, I have not actually tried it, so even if you did the above I'm not sure if it works. Ford has sort of abandoned AppLink (not officially I don't think, but there hasn't been much if any development work on it in quite a while). CarPlay/Android Auto are a better way to go in most cases.

Sorry your dealership was so useless, but glad to hear your remote functions are working finally. You know what they say... "when you want something done right, do it yourself!"

Continuing your analogy--you prepaid the candy shop for a Twix but they only gave you half of it. The candy man owes you the rest of your Twix. This DIY/Forscan route is great for those of us who have decided to accept some risk in exchange for not having to pay $300+ to a dealership. In your case, you paid the money to Ford. Make 'em earn it!

What would you consider a reliable source? If you mean a link to something at ford.com I'm afraid there's nothing like that. Ford does not intend for end users to be messing with this stuff, so there is no "official" documentation or instructions on how to edit a module's configuration. All of the knowledge we have has come from people who work/used to work for Ford and hacker savants who have been able to reverse engineer Ford's programming. Unofficial documentation about this exists, (for instance the AS-BUILT database at cyanlabs.net) but it's not in a form laypeople would be able to make much sense of. The most reliable source you're gonna get is @oldbeyondmeasure's post from a few weeks ago where he helpfully posted his modem's as-built, which was programmed correctly for him by his Ford dealer (he had the official 21B09 swap done). That screenshot I posted came directly from him. You can see that your as-built matches his exactly except for line 754-01-01. His remote functions work, yours don't. That first line is why. I understand not trusting random people on the internet, but honestly I'm not sure what else I can say. The change I told you to make simply fixes your modem programming so that it matches everyone else here who has had a 4G modem put in their C-Max (whether they did it themselves or had a dealership do it). And if you take it back to the dealer, they will in effect be doing the same thing. They have a different method of doing it (they're not using Forscan), but after you get it back from them and read your modem's configuration with Forscan, you're going to see B842 in that first line, because that's the correct value. Honestly, at this point that's probably what you should do. I think you're just too risk-averse to do this yourself, and I can probably never satisfy your concerns that your car will get screwed up. You paid Ford a pretty penny for this upgrade--they owe it to you to fix it. Call them up and say "you installed this modem for me and it works except for the remote start/lock/unlock. I spoke with FordPass support and they said the modem you put in needs to be reprogrammed. Please set up an appointment to do that" Let us know how it goes.

Here's one way to think about it--even if you screw up and type in the wrong values, literally the only module in the car that would be affected is the modem. So the worst thing that can happen is your modem doesn't work. You're not touching any other system of the car. So if you're worried that it might die entirely or steer you into a ditch when driving, don't be. And even in this worst-case scenario where you mistype and end up writing incorrect data to the modem, you can very easily re-load the backup you saved by clicking the "Load All" button at the bottom of the window and locating the backup file you saved. The risk is quite low. But having the dealer reprogram it for you is a perfectly understandable choice also. At least you know what the problem is now! As for how long it takes the modem to respond to a remote command, it depends on several things, including the AT&T LTE signal level in the car's location and internet congestion in general. But I've found that when issuing a lock/unlock/start command from the app that the car responds within 10 seconds give or take. It's actually quite a bit faster than MFM in that regard. Or maybe you meant how long does it take for the remote commands to begin working after you fix your as-built. Not really sure since I programmed my modem with the correct result from the get-go (I had the benefit of following in the footsteps of @David_Tucker4 and @cr08 who experimented and ultimately determined the correct value). It will either work right away after reprogramming the TCU or it may need a Sync master reset and re-authorization as I pointed out in my previous message.

Yeah, B882 in 754-01-01 is what the 3G modems in the C-Max were set to, but that does not work with the 4G modems, which need to be set to B842 to work properly in a C-Max. It has to do with the electrical architecture of the car, sort of like the language it speaks. In this case, when you use FordPass to tell the car to lock the doors, the modem is relaying that command to the car, but in a language the car doesn't understand, which is why it doesn't work. At this point you have two options: 1. Since even Ford agreed you need to have the module reprogrammed (and since they owe you a functioning modem) you could bring it to the ford dealer and tell them they need to reprogram the modem. That should get all the correct programming input into the module, at which point the remote functions of FordPass would work immediately. 2. If you feel slightly daring and don't want to waste more of your time at the dealership, you can make the change yourself. It's really pretty simple, and as long as you're diligent and careful in doing it the risk to your car is extremely low. If you want to go ahead and do it, then follow my previous instructions to get to the as-built screen (same thing you just sent a screenshot of). Edit the two boxes on the 754-01-01 line only (the other 754 lines already match so leave them as-is). In the first box, change the 82 to 42 so it says B842 In the second box, change the 9 to a 5 so it reads 57 Then click the "Write" button on the 754-01-01 line. It might pop up a "are you sure you want to do this"-type message (can't remember). After it writes the change it will prompt you to turn the car off and back on. After you do that, click the Stop button at the bottom of the screen and then click the car icon and then the disconnect button. At this point you're done with Forscan. Go ahead and open your FordPass app and try the remote functions. If they work, great. If not, then go into the car's Sync screen and go to Settings -> General -> Master Reset. This will clear out the old authorization in FordPass, so you'll need to re-authorize it (it also clears a bunch of other stuff including your phone's bluetooth pairing). But after that the remote functions should work. If they don't, then go back into Forscan and read the TCU's as-built again (as in my previous instructions). Double check that the 754-01-01 line reads B842. Good luck. Edit: The strategy line is exactly what it should be. I mis-remembered the number in my previous message... 14G087 is the part number and the strategy is 14G139. So you're all good on the module itself. It just needs that one programming change.

There is no personally-identifiable information in any of the 754-xx-xx lines. In fact, they are supposed to be 100% identical for all 4G modems installed in a C-Max. For remote functions to work, your 754-01-01 line must be B842 (the two other digits in the box after that don't really matter--they're just a checksum). If you prefer, you can compare all your lines with the ones posted by @oldbeyondmeasure several pages back (I'm attaching his screenshot). If yours matches this then the module configuration is not your problem. Also, go back to the car icon -> Configuration and look at the Strategy for the TCU. Is it HJ5T-14G087-UM?

Yes the hardware ID that the license is based on is unique per computer. Since you have the adapter working on the second laptop, might be easier to just request a a license for it (same procedure you followed in my post from the other day). Edit: Might/probably need to use a different email address than you used for the first one. If you have a gmail address you can try using the + trick to create an alias that will ultimately still go to your same inbox (so like if your normal email is GeR2@gmail.com, try using GeR2+1@gmail.com to request the license for your other computer). Of course many of us already have multiple email addresses, so whatever is easier.

OK that looks right. Just curious, when you connected with this USB adapter, did it ask you if you wanted to load a saved profile? If so and you did that, then that is likely the problem. When you load a saved profile it doesn't re-scan for new modules (meaning it used the list generated when you used your bluetooth OBD2 adapter). If you didn't load a saved profile then disregard the above. I would definitely try your other OBD2 port and reboot the laptop for good measure. See if you get any different result.

OK can you now post a screenshot of the Gear icon > Connection tab? The debug mode checkbox is normal. Edit: Also sort of odd to me that it's not detecting your OBDII module (but is seeing the SOBDM). Maybe that's normal though with these generic ELM327 adapters. Which OBD2 port do you have it plugged into? Have you tried the other one? One is behind the plastic drop-down door under the headlight dial and the other one is sort of hidden up above the brake pedal.

Looks like it's still not connecting to the MS-CAN bus. Can you post a screenshot of the Connection settings (Car icon > Configuration)? Edit: Also, if you didn't already, try installing these drivers http://sw.forscan.net/down/CH341SER.EXE

Yep--worked for me too yesterday. The set speed appears in the lower left corner of the left screen of the instrument cluster (underneath the ECO telltale if you have ECO cruise control turned on). With CC on but not activated, it shows a 0 with a slash through it. Pretty nifty! Thanks for the tip on that @cr08.

Should be fine for reading (and writing if need be) asbuilt data. I probably wouldn't use it to flash firmware, but that's not something you're going to need to do for this anyway.

Indeed--yep I completely forgot about that. Even before picking up my OBDLink EX I was using an MX+ which also auto-switches. @oldbeyondmeasure For $20 you can get a USB ELM327 adapter that has a physical toggle switch on it for interacting with the HS-CAN or MS-CAN buses. That's the cheapest route to go and they are plentiful on amazon, ebay, etc. Here's one example, or you can just do a search for ELM327 USB MS-CAN to pull up a bunch of identical Chinesium with different labels and price points ?. But I concur with @cr08 that if you're willing to pony up $60 then the OBDLink EX is well worth having, especially if you eventually decide to get even more adventurous with Forscan! ? As a bonus, Forscan won't show you the scary "not recommended" message since it's on their recommended list. The demo mode message you saw is normal the first time you connect. I don't think it will come back up since you switched it to real mode, which is what you want. Good job getting this far! Sorry I led you astray on the type of adapter needed.

Thanks! I just went in and looked. Guessing it's the "Cruise Control Set Speed" option. I went ahead and enabled it, along with "Cruise Control Menu". Didn't see any Cruise Control menu show up on either screen in the IPC, but I also didn't have the ignition on (just accessory mode). So either the Cruise Control menu isn't compatible with the C-Max or maybe it only shows up when in motion and with cruise control turned on. I'll be on the highway tomorrow so will test both settings and report back.

Great! 1. In Forscan, click on the top-most icon (the car with the yellow i), then click on the Connect button (see arrow: 2. This will initiate the connection with the car. On the right side of the window, you should see various events in the log. It establishes the connection, identifies the VIN/make/model and then it enumerates (detects) every module it finds--should be around 30 in all, give or take. As part of this process it will also display any diagnostic trouble codes that are found. 3. Once it's done detecting all the modules (usually the last one is IPC - Instrument Panel Control Module), it will ask you if you want to save the corrent configuration as a profile. I suggest you do this--there's no downside and in some cases it can come in handy. As part of saving it there is a text box for you to name the profile--just accept the default name unless you really want to call it something different. 4. Now that the car is connected, you'll want to find and click on the icon that looks like a computer chip (6th one down from the top/third one from the bottom). 5. You'll see a long list on the right side (that unfortunately isn't sorted alphabetically). Look in the list for: TCU Module configuration (AS BUILT format) and click on it. 6. Look near the bottom left corner of the window for the little play button in a circle--like this: Click on it. 7. Forscan will pop up a scary warning that "Changing configuration is potentially not safe". Remember that at this stage we're not changing anything, so there is nothing to worry about. Click the OK button to acknowledge the warning. 8. Forscan will query the module and get each block of the as-built (programming)--should only take a couple of seconds. What you should end up with is a screen with a bunch of rows of alphanumeric strings in little boxes. 9. The very first thing you should do as a best practice is save a backup copy of this information. That way you will always have the original configuration in case you need to refer back to it or even revert to it. The way to take a backup is to click on the "Save All" button, which is near the bottom of the screen. When you click it, a box will come up where you can choose where you want to save the backup file and what you want to call it. You can just keep the defaults and hit OK. 10. Take a picture with your smart phone (or a screenshot if you know that process in Windows) of the entire as-built data, which should start with the line: 754-01-01 and end with the line 754-05-02. 11. Since we're not making any changes at this point, go ahead and click the little stop button in a circle--like this: . 12. It's a good idea to go back to the top icon (car with a yellow i) and then click the little disconnect icon (right next to the connect button you clicked in step 1. You can then shut the car off and pull the OBD2 adapter off the OBD2 port. 13. Upload the pic or screenshot you took of your modem programming here, or you can PM it if you don't want to post it. That's it. Let me know if anything is unclear.

Ah! Yes I made this same change a couple of weeks ago and was thrilled to see that it works (I too had read messages in the past saying it wasn't possible on our cars). At first, I was kind of bugged by having to press the lock button twice since doing so also triggers the honk confirmation that the doors were locked. I looked into disabling that honk, but ultimately figured out that if you just hold down on the lock button on the fob for ~5 seconds it will lock all the doors and roll up the windows without having to hold the lock button a second time (thus avoiding the honk). I did not do the relearning of the range of motion, so that is probably not strictly necessary (but it can't hurt, either). Enabling this has been one of the biggest quality-of-life improvements to this vehicle for me. Can't tell you how many times in the past I've had to get back in the car and turn it on just to roll up a damn window! The other super great Forscan tweak I did was to disable the double-honk when getting out of the car with the key while it's running. That was even more aggravating to me than the global close thing because it often seemed to happen when there were other folks around (parking lot, someone's driveway, etc.) and people would think I was honking at them. Disabling that sucker was a godsend. I can make a post about how to do it here in case anyone else is interested--it's a pretty quick and easy as-built change. Maybe we can think about putting together a collaborative google spreadsheet with all the tweaks that work on the C-Max.

As @cr08 said, there is basically no risk to just inspect it. Forscan (the software we're using to do this) is very good about warning you before doing anything that makes any changes to the car. At this point all you're going to do is read the As-built (programming) of the modem, take a screenshot or photo of it and post it here. We can then tell you if it's correct or not and how to fix it if you want to. So if you're interested, the first step would be to get Forscan installed on your laptop and a trial license. 1. Go to https://forscan.org/download.html and download "FORScan for Windows v2.3.46" (current version as of today's date). 2. After it finishes downloading, find the file and install it (I assume you know how to do this. If not, let me know) 3. After it installs, it normally places a shortcut on your desktop. Double-click it to run the program. 4. When it opens, you'll see a stack of 8 icons going down the left side. The last one is a steering wheel with a question mark in the center. Click on that. 5. The about screen should appear to the right. Look for the line showing your hardware key and copy it to your clipboard or write it down. 6. From your web browser, go to this page: https://forscan.org/support/prepare_trial_el_request.php?lang=en 7. On the support request page that comes up, fill out all of the requested fields (you can use a fake name but you must use a valid email address because they email the license to you). In the hardware ID box, paste or type in the key you obtained in step 5 8. Submit the form and wait. Usually they seem to process them within a half hour or so but may take longer. Check your inbox and junk folders in case it goes there. 9. The subject of the email will be "Free 2 month trial FORScan Extended License Registration Key" and it will come from no-reply@forscan.org. Click the link in the email. 10. In the web page that opens up, click the link that says "Download Extended License Key", which should download a small file to your computer. 11. Go back into Forscan > Steering wheel icon and click "Load License Key". It should pop up a box where you can go find the license file you just downloaded. Confirm you've selected the correct file and submit it. It should restart Forscan, and when you go back to the steering wheel icon it should say "Extended license. Registered to: <your name>. Valid until <2 months from when you requested the license> That's it for getting the program installed and registered. Then you'll need to connect the OBD2 adapter to your C-Max, power on the car (can do it in accessory mode by starting the car without your foot on the brake pedal) and pair the adapter to your laptop (unless you've already done that). Once it's paired, within Forscan click the gear icon and go to the Connection tab. I think it's supposed to auto-detect if a bluetooth adapter is connected, but you can double-check it there. I'll stop here for now in case you have any questions.

Most likely, yes. The string I mentioned before amounts to a four digit number that tells the modem what kind of vehicle it's hooked up to. For our vehicles it should be set to B842. The B means it's Sync3 (versus the older sync2 system), the 8 means it's a plug-in hybrid and the 42 indicates it's in North America and communicates using CGEA 1.2 parameters (basically what "language" it speaks). @David_Tucker4actually determined the correct values for that string several months ago by trial and error, before we even knew what the official Ford programming was (@oldbeyondmeasure confirmed the official programming for us in this thread a couple of weeks ago). David found that without the correct values in that string, the remote functions would either work partially or not at all. So that's why I think it's possible that Ford didn't program the correct string into your modem. If you contact Ford (either the FordPass people or your dealership), they likely would not understand the problem/solution framed that way though, as I don't think they really ever get into the nitty-gritty of changing specific values in the programming. They just use their IDS computer system to apply the proper programming to each module in the car. So for them they wouldn't be looking at that B842 string. They'd just be connecting the car up to their system and telling it to program the modem. So yeah if you approach Ford about this then you should just mention that since the remote functions aren't working you want them to re-program the module. They should understand that request. I understand your trepidation about trying to do it yourself, and no worries if it's not something you feel comfortable with. After all, since you paid Ford for the modem it's really their job to fix it. But I wanted to mention it to you, because unlike some of the other nonfunctional stuff in FordPass, I don't believe the remote start/lock/unlock features will just start working on their own if they haven't worked at all since you had the modem installed. So I think you'll need to insist that they reprogram the modem at the dealership.