bookemdano

Your lock/unlock/remote start buttons aren't working at all? If that's the case then I strongly suspect that the Ford dealer did not program your modem correctly. Specifically the 754-01-01 block in your modem's as-built is probably set to an incorrect value. While it's true that some features in FordPass are still a work-in-progress, and sometimes it takes several days for data from your car to show up, the remote control functions usually work right away once the car is successfully authorized. If they're not working after all this time then I believe the module doesn't have the right programming. You may want to return to the Ford dealer who installed the modem and make them re-program it for you. If you don't want to do that and are willing to pick up an OBD2 bluetooth or USB adapter (plus have a Windows laptop at your disposal) I'd be happy to walk you through how to check that value and correct it if necessary.

Awesome! Will definitely work on getting the parking overlay enabled. I haven't done a whole lot of asbuilt tweaks, but the two that have been most useful to me: Adding global close (automatically closing all windows by holding the lock button on the fob for 5 seconds). Of course we already had global open from the factory, but this is a lot more useful as it avoids the need to get back in and start the car just to roll up a window that was left down. Disabling the SUPER-annoying double honk when trying to exit the car with the key while it's running. I understand why it's good to notify the driver in a situation like that, but Ford should have used a beep or something more subtle--honking the horn is obnoxious. I've felt the need to apologize numerous times to people that I wasn't intending to honk at them. Pretty much the only other change I made recently was removing Sirius from the sources list. I don't subscribe and never intend to, so it's nice to not have to see it when cycling through audio sources. It would be great to get a spreadsheet of *working* asbuilt tweaks for the C-max. There are some very comprehensive ones out there for other Ford models but a lot of the tweaks won't work for our cars. Edit: Got the parking overlay working per the asbuilt changes posted by @cr08 and @David_Tucker4. Just experimented pulling into and back out of my garage and seems to work great. Cool! Edit 2: After some weirdness last week (only successfully synced 1 out of 10+ times I tried), I was able to sync two charging locations to the car from FordPass this morning with zero issues.

It would be super cool to get that overlay if we can. I have a 2017 C-Max Energi Titanium (so it has the auto park, blis and rear cross traffic alerts). PAM - Parking Aid Module: Part number: CJ5T-15K866-BH Calibration level: CJ5T-15K866-BH Strategy: CJ5T-14C090-BH Calibration: CJ5T-14C091-BJ I also do not show an option to edit the asbuilt for the PAM module. The only option that shows up for it is firmware upgrade.

Yeah, asbuilt code is still pretty mysterious to me. Always interesting to learn from folks who know a lot more about how it all fits together. @oldbeyondmeasure likely already has 7D for all those bits, since I copied his asbuilt in total when programming mine (figuring that his is configured exactly how Ford intended for the C-Max). Still, this is good info to have posted here for future reference, as I'm sure we'll have other folks working on DIY TCU swaps in the future. Great job summarizing it!

This is all sound advice. If it were me, I would start with swapping back in the old TCU, since that's the most recent change that was made. So completely disconnect the new TCU, reconnect the old TCU and then go in with Forscan and clear the DTC memory. You should know pretty quick if all/some of the DTCs come back. If they come back (and the car still isn't functioning properly) then you know the TCU itself isn't the issue. You can then work on the other stuff @cr08 pointed out (fixing the bulb, checking that you didn't crimp or abrade any wires when doing the swap or removing that !@$%^ side panel, etc.) Good luck! Keep us posted.

Info copied from here. First digit: OLT = On Line Telematics CCS = Customer Connectivity Setting 0=OLT Disabled, CCS Disabled 1=OLT Disabled, CCS Enabled 2=OLT Enabled, CCS Disabled 3=OLT Enabled, CCS Enabled Second digit: DUFE = Data Usage Feature Enablement HPDM= HEV/PHEV Data Monitoring Enabled VHM = Vehicle Health Monitor WHF = WiFi Hotspot Feature Enabled 0=DUFE Disabled, HPDM Disabled, VHM Disabled, WHF Disabled 1=DUFE Disabled, HPDM Disabled, VHM Disabled, WHF Enabled 2=DUFE Disabled, HPDM Disabled, VHM Enabled, WHF Disabled 3=DUFE Disabled, HPDM Disabled, VHM Enabled, WHF Enabled 4=DUFE Disabled, HPDM Enabled, VHM Disabled, WHF Disabled 5=DUFE Disabled, HPDM Enabled, VHM Disabled, WHF Enabled 6=DUFE Disabled, HPDM Enabled, VHM Enabled, WHF Disabled 7=DUFE Disabled, HPDM Enabled, VHM Enabled, WHF Enabled 8=DUFE Enabled, HPDM Disabled, VHM Disabled, WHF Disabled 9=DUFE Enabled, HPDM Disabled, VHM Disabled, WHF Enabled A=DUFE Enabled, HPDM Disabled, VHM Enabled, WHF Disabled B=DUFE Enabled, HPDM Disabled, VHM Enabled, WHF Enabled C=DUFE Enabled, HPDM Enabled, VHM Disabled, WHF Disabled D=DUFE Enabled, HPDM Enabled, VHM Disabled, WHF Enabled E=DUFE Enabled, HPDM Enabled, VHM Enabled, WHF Disabled F=DUFE Enabled, HPDM Enabled, VHM Enabled, WHF Enabled Third digit: FFE = Ford OTA Feature Enabled PPS = PwPck Setting TORC = Transmission of Rolling Code SB = Secondary Battery Enable 0=FFE Disabled, PPS Disabled, TORC Disabled, SB Disabled 1=FFE Disabled, PPS Disabled, TORC Disabled, SB Enabled 2=FFE Disabled, PPS Disabled, TORC Enabled, SB Disabled 3=FFE Disabled, PPS Disabled, TORC Enabled, SB Enabled 4=FFE Disabled, PPS Enabled, TORC Disabled, SB Disabled 5=FFE Disabled, PPS Enabled, TORC Disabled, SB Enabled 6=FFE Disabled, PPS Enabled, TORC Enabled, SB Disabled 7=FFE Disabled, PPS Enabled, TORC Enabled, SB Enabled 8=FFE Enabled, PPS Disabled, TORC Disabled, SB Disabled 9=FFE Enabled, PPS Disabled, TORC Disabled, SB Enabled A=FFE Enabled, PPS Disabled, TORC Enabled, SB Disabled B=FFE Enabled, PPS Disabled, TORC Enabled, SB Enabled C=FFE Enabled, PPS Enabled, TORC Disabled, SB Disabled D=FFE Enabled, PPS Enabled, TORC Disabled, SB Enabled E=FFE Enabled, PPS Enabled, TORC Enabled, SB Disabled F=FFE Enabled, PPS Enabled, TORC Enabled, SB Enabled Fourth digit: PB = Primary Battery Enable ECALL = ECALL Enable TBM = Tracking and Blocking Module Enable FTF = Fleet Telematics Feature Enable 0=PB Disabled, ECALL Disabled, TBM Disabled, FTF Disabled 1=PB Disabled, ECALL Disabled, TBM Disabled, FTF Enabled 2=PB Disabled, ECALL Disabled, TBM Enabled, FTF Disabled 3=PB Disabled, ECALL Disabled, TBM Enabled, FTF Enabled 4=PB Disabled, ECALL Enabled, TBM Disabled, FTF Disabled 5=PB Disabled, ECALL Enabled, TBM Disabled, FTF Enabled 6=PB Disabled, ECALL Enabled, TBM Enabled, FTF Disabled 7=PB Disabled, ECALL Enabled, TBM Enabled, FTF Enabled 8=PB Enabled, ECALL Disabled, TBM Disabled, FTF Disabled 9=PB Enabled, ECALL Disabled, TBM Disabled, FTF Enabled A=PB Enabled, ECALL Disabled, TBM Enabled, FTF Disabled B=PB Enabled, ECALL Disabled, TBM Enabled, FTF Enabled C=PB Enabled, ECALL Enabled, TBM Disabled, FTF Disabled D=PB Enabled, ECALL Enabled, TBM Disabled, FTF Enabled E=PB Enabled, ECALL Enabled, TBM Enabled, FTF Disabled F=PB Enabled, ECALL Enabled, TBM Enabled, FTF Enabled The difference between Fusion Energi and C-Max Energi is in the first two digits. In the first digit, the Fusion's TCU has "Customer Connectivity Setting" enabled, whereas the C-Max doesn't. In the second digit, the Fusion's TCU has "Data Usage Feature", "HEV/PHEV Data Monitoring" and "Vehicle Health Monitor" enabled--the C-Max has none. Perhaps @David_Tucker4, @bakedpatato or @cr08 have experimented with those settings--I have not.

Someone (sorry I forget who) posted this on the Cyanlabs discord a few weeks ago. I believe this person said they had the official TCU swap done at Ford (in the US of course). Hope this helps. EDIT: To clarify, these values are for a Fusion Energi.

Is anyone who did the upgrade getting any trip history in Driving Data > Journeys > My EV driving data? Mine is constantly blank despite several recent trips. I did not enable the journey recording, but that shouldn't really be necessary because that uses your phone and the EV driving data should all come direct from the TCU (just as it did with MFM).

Not OP but I also installed the same antenna and had no issues at all. The F150 guys (who pioneered installing TCUs in their trucks a few years ago) have been using that antenna with great results, so it is tried and true at this point. Installing it is truly plug and play. Note that they normally don't come with a cable--just a male Fakra connector. There is a Ford cable available but I just bought a bingfu female fakra to female fakra cable--there are several different lengths available on amazon. The nice thing about the official Ford antenna is it doesn't cause the TCU to throw a code like the bingfu does. Obviously not a big deal but it's a nice feeling to scan for codes and not have any!

Please report back your results from changing out your gateway module. The "J" TCUs communicate via HS3CAN, so flashing J strategy to a K TCU makes it communicate with the ICAN-based C-Max just fine, even with the old gateway module. I get location, odometer, fuel level, battery state of charge, etc. But it does not gain the EV functions in FordPass (charge scheduling, charge log, notifications, etc.) I think an "H" TCU is required for this. If you can get everything working in your Fusion Energi with an L TCU that would be great news. Please keep us posted.

Yeah, the "intelligent oil-life monitor" frankly isn't that intelligent. As far as I can tell, it simply keeps track of overall miles (not just ICE miles) and days since the previous oil change. If you hit 2 years or 20,000 miles it tells you to change the oil. I guess "Dumb oil-life monitor" doesn't have the same marketing zing ? Also, thanks for posting your APIM version and as-built info. Looks like no changes there for the new TCU, so at least that's one variable we can eliminate.

I'm losing track of what forum I'm posting what info on ? (here, f150forum, fordfusionenergiforum.com) but yes, a J or later TCU is required for FordPass to display individual tire pressures in the app. And furthermore, it seems that our vehicles are too old for it to work. I've spent the last week testing my KT1T TCU. After a downgrade to J firmware, it does communicate with my car (e.g. ESN appears in Sync 3 About screen), and I'm getting the normal telematics data like odometer, fuel level, D.T.E., and accurate current GPS location. I also get the HVB state of charge and estimated EV range, but that appears to be it in terms of EV-related goodies. So no options to look at/set value charging, go times, charge log, trip log or any of the other MFM stuff. There is a button for tire pressure and it goes to a screen showing a depiction of the car's four tires, but the pressure shown next to each is 0. Furthermore, it doesn't even show the recommended pressures. So this tells me that newer cars (perhaps CGEA 1.3?) have that data stored in a different location than the older platforms, and being that the J and later TCUs are meant for 2018+ vehicles, they just aren't programmed to look where our TPMS pressures are stored. That's my best guess anyway. I know that newer Fords can show the individual pressures on a diagram on the instrument cluster, so Ford obviously made some improvements to TPMS over the last few years. I also tried downgrading the K TCU to H firmware but that would not flash, despite trying it several different ways. H TCUs are FCCID FAN and J/K TCUs are FCCID FANW, so they are probably just different enough that their firmware isn't cross compatible. So I think an "H" TCU will be needed to get this truly working the same as the official Ford upgrade. Makes sense since the H is the one they themselves are installing, but it was worth trying the newer modules since they're definitely more plentiful.

Thanks a lot, @oldbeyondmeasure!

Awesome! Thanks for doing the legwork on that @cr08. Hopefully that helps @jghall00 get his wife access to their FFE, as well as others in the thread who want to set that up.

Really? I stand corrected then. I guess I'm just not sure how that would work, because the TCU needs to be in "wait for authorization" mode in order to accept a control request from FordPass. But once the pairing is established, the TCU stays in authorized mode. It only goes back to "wait for authorization" if the car is removed from the Ford account. MFM worked the same way. If there is indeed a way to do this, maybe it is done via Ford's backend (i.e. the "owner" of the pairing delegates access to another Ford account)?

You paired the car with your Ford account already, so your wife would just need to sign into FordPass with your Ford account and she should be able to control it as well. You only do the pairing step once per Ford account, not per phone.

Great! You can authorize much easier using this web site: https://connectedcar-sdk.com/dashboard Sign in there with your FordPass login (don't worry, it's safe). You can send the authorize command from that site. Then go to your car and turn it on. After a few moments you should see the prompt come up on your sync screen (disregard the references to MyFordMobile--the name is hard-coded into the sync software). Choose to allow and then you should be able to see your tcu_authstate change to authorized mode. At that point it should just be a bit of a wait for the data to populate in FordPass (2-3 days I think).

Also, if you go to Settings > Vehicle on your Sync 3 center screen look at the Modem Serial number (ESN). If it starts with a U then you have a 4G/LTE modem. If it starts with a T then it's a 3G modem.

Someone double check me on this, but I believe you can download it here: https://www.fordtechservice.dealerconnection.com/vdirs/wds/PCMReprogram/DSFM_PCMReprogram.asp?swproduct=IDS Simply type HJ5T-14G139-UM into the box and click "Download File". It should immediately start the download (compressed in a .zip). I just tried it and it worked for me. Edit: Beaten to the punch! I guess I ended up confirming cr08's instructions ?

Super! Just got my Forscan trial license (note that due to the war sanctions, you can't purchase a Forscan license right now, not that you need to for the purposes of this install. The trial period is 2 months which should be more than enough time to do the DIY). First thing I will need to try to downgrade the firmware of my K TCU and hope that will enable I-CAN communications. Fingers crossed!

Awesome! I think you're the first to DIY in a 2013 (at least who has posted about it). Great to have confirmation that it apparently works the same as in any other model year. I'm pretty sure @David_Tucker4 posted a similar experience on the defunct MFM forum--that the remote functions worked first and then a day or so later he started getting the charge state, location info, etc. Really hope that the Calibration/Strategy update to the UM version will be the key to getting Value Charging working (or at least on par with what those who got the official upgrade are seeing). Edit: Also, @bakedpatato posted a bunch of pages back that the third party antenna does cause the DTC to be thrown. I guess the official Ford antennas are wired in such a way that the TCU likes, but not the amazon ones (even though they do work to get the SNR where it should be). Edit2: After looking at the first post on the f150forum.com thread, it seems the official Ford antenna is grounded to the chassis via a screw. I wonder if lack of ground on the bingfu/amazon antennas is why the TCU is throwing the code. Just a guess, could definitely be something else.

Yes, Ford surprised pretty much everyone by completely disabling the MFM app/website on the 22nd. This is despite the fact that AT&T's 3G service is still working in many areas. The message in FordPass is just basic Ford incompetence. That message has always been there. Obviously it needs to be removed/changed at this point but Ford hasn't seen fit to do that yet. Since all of the affected vehicles are discontinued, I think Ford just doesn't really care at this point. If you want to keep using any remote features you will need to contact a local Ford dealer and tell them you need to have your 3G modem replaced with a 4G/LTE one. If the dealer has no idea what you're talking about, tell them to refer to Ford's CSP #21B09. Your 2019 likely does not qualify for the free labor included with that program, but Ford's documentation on the program will tell them what parts to order, how to do the swap, etc. You'll likely be on the hook for parts and labor, which may run $500+. And to top it all off, you may have trouble getting the modem working in FordPass even after having the dealer install it. We don't have a ton of datapoints at this point, but if you look back in the past couple of pages you'll see there are a couple of people who still don't have it working despite having Ford do the swap weeks ago. To be sure, some folks do have it working, so it seems to be a YMMV thing. And I have no doubt that Ford will eventually figure it out for those that don't. But you may want to wait a bit to see if Ford gets its **** together in the coming months.

I think this comes down to a risk tolerance/"to each his own" sort of thing. There are plenty of discussions that 15A smart plugs (at least those from major manufacturers concerned with their liability) are more than suitable, and may in fact be rated quite conservatively (just from reddit, see here, here, here, here, here... you get the point). Of course, there's no harm in being extra cautious and wiring in a high-amp contactor, but I didn't want people to think that using an un-modified 15A smart plug is universally considered unwise or unsafe. Plenty of people do it and have no problems whatsoever. Now if someone is trying to use some $5 chinesium plug picked up from some random seller on aliexpress, trusting it with a high-draw device inside a garage may not be a smart idea. But major manufacturers get their UL and CE certifications, and that's good enough for me and many others. Anyway, did you make any progress on connecting your LTE TCU? ?

Curious why you need to modify a smart plug? Many/most of them on the market should be already rated for the 11-12 amps Ford's charger pulls. I've been using an old GE Z-Wave module that is rated for 15A--works just fine. Also, agreed re: level 2 chargers. I don't have one either, and no plans to. The C-Max Energi doesn't really benefit from one anyway, unless someone really needs/wants to charge it really quickly during the day (at potentially high electricity rates), or if they're parking overnight outside/in an uninsulated garage and want to make effective use of the "Go Times" pre-heating/cooling function. On the flip side, charging it at the higher voltage heats up the passively-cooled HVB more, reducing its range and lifespan (gradually, but still). Level 2 will be great for my next EV in a few years, but it's not a great fit for the C-Max.

Good find. I guess that explains why Ford didn't include the 2013 in the dealer letter regarding the 4G modem swaps. Eager to hear your experience trying it yourself. Like you said, nothing to lose at this point since you could just swap back in your 3G modem if it doesn't work. I'm honestly curious what changed in the electronics between 2013 and 2014, because there is very little outward difference between the two model years. Wonder if it has to do with the electrical architecture (the whole C1MCA vs CGEA thing). Pissed at Ford for preemptively disabling MFM. They had to know that 3G service was going to disappear gradually. Why not just put an advisory pop-up/banner on the MFM app advising that it may stop working, while still allowing folks to use it in the interim. Especially since their dealers are still so clueless about the modem swaps.