SnowStorm

183k

After my recent dead battery the front window's One-Touch Down/Up and Bounce-Back functions were messed up. Driver's window would reverse when fully closed. After searching posts and considerable "retraining" I finally got them working again. Probably not a good idea to have windows open if you're going to have a dead battery!

Although the Escape sounds good with several features I want that aren't on the C-Max, there's not much chance of getting one as my wife has had it with Ford and all the problems - and I'm not far behind. To list: Dead transmission with hole worn clear through the side! Ford won't do anything for us. Dead batteries. Dead radio/audio - just leave the fuse out. Loud "pop" on acceleration - sounds like the car is coming apart. Lift-gate has always been temperamental about opening. What did I forget?Otherwise its a great car! Had hoped to go straight to a BEV in a few years but might have to look at the RAV-4 hybrid. I'll need a grill cover for sure, a big one - just to cover all that ugliness!

Should have kept my mouth shut as we just had another bead battery. :rant2: Car had sat in the garage for about 8 days, being moved from one bay to the other about half way through this time, then its dead - no lights or anything. Jump starter brought it on immediately. I didn't have my meter handy so don't know how low it was. So much for "the fix". ;) Went for a 40 mile round trip yesterday and it was fine, and OK this morning. Driver's window was down part way when it went dead so now the bounce-back and auto-close functions are messed up. Now I have to figure out that fool thing. I guess we have to go for a drive every day and reconnect my old battery alarm. Problems with this car are getting older than the car. :sad:

As to charging, a few more thoughts: First, remember that most charging is done at home. Public chargers are only needed for long distance travel. Its not valid to think of every gas pump getting replaced with a public charger. Most of us will rarely use one. Totally not true of gas pumps! Electricity is far more distributed than gasoline. Its everywhere - all the time. Charge rate capability keeps going up. Aren't we up to 350kW? Yes, they have to get installed, cars have to be built that can take it but that will come. You'll get 200 miles of charge in 12 minutes. I'm rather tired of all the comparisons between total EV trip time on road trips versus a Mustang or Model T or whatever. Have you ever seen a comparison between charging at home (essentially zero extra time) versus all the time spent going to a station and buying gasoline? What "social mandate" built Tesla's 1604 charging stations with 14,081 Superchargers? There may be mandates but I'm not sure they're required. You can make your own electricity. For the many us whose cars sit at home most of the time, you can do it with 5kW of solar panels that cost $3,000 plus a 5kW inverter. Very simple if you don't connect it to the grid. Free power "forever". Try that with gasoline.A lot of the problems we see today will just sort of melt away. Remember, 20+ years to make the transition. That's a lot of time and a lot of new technology we don't even see yet. Just look back 20 years and see what we had for EVs and chargers!

Plenty of agendas and questions no doubt but I'm not interested in that here. I just like electric cars and think they are the best long term answer. Why shouldn't I? I've worked with electrons all my life (as did my dad). And I'm sick of changing oil! Now here's a new first - after 61 years a gasoline station converts totally to electric charging. Go down the road a few years and you'll round the corner to your favorite gas station only to find all the "pumps" only dispense electrons! :rant: We'll be driving around town looking for gasoline the way we used to look for diesel. :stirpot:

The cabin air filter is a bit of a pain to change but quite doable. Lots of us have done it. Just follow +3's excellent instructions here. I know nothing about the motor.

21 years and melting! The government has announced its intention to ban the sale of petrol and diesel cars by 2040 while also committing to buy EVs for a quarter of its own fleet by 2022. Just 21 years to argue the pros and cons of ICE versus EV - then it wont matter! The ICE Age will have lasted about 150 years - about the same as the steam locomotive.

I think the only real fix to many dead 12V battery problems is Ford's 15B04 CSP (Customer Satisfaction Program). See if your dealer can determine if it was ever done on your car. If not, check into having it done. Ford's reason for the CSP was: In some of the affected vehicles, certain electronic control modules may not time out/power down correctly when the vehicle is not in use, keeping the onboard module communication network active. This may cause the 12 volt battery to discharge after being parked overnight or for a short period of time, resulting in a no start condition. Just opening the car door and closing it again can send battery current to over 11 amps for 10-15 seconds. If that drain continued, or started during the night, your 100% SOC battery will be dead next morning. Many of us had multiple dead battery events years back but this CSP did seem to fix the problem. I haven't had any since mine was done.

When the car is "running", there should be no drain on the 12V battery - all 12V loads are supplied by the DC/DC converter off of the HVB. At the same time the DC/DC converter is supplying charge to the 12V battery.

I used a company that also did replacements for my dealer.

A number of folks have blown a cloud of smoke, including me. See this topic for the stories. I'm now past 183k miles with no problem that might have been associated with the smoke. In my case the car was warmed up. Maybe condensation can form in the intake somehow?

Just a reminder that Michelin also makes an Energy Saver A/S 94V that is only rated to 44 psi. Make sure you have the Energy Saver A/S 93V if going above 44 psi.

I believe this is the site that listed my transmission.

Sounds a lot like my old problem described here and here. Still thinking about replacing the whole thing as done here. So what's on the other side of the board from the two long rows of pins - a connector, module, ??? Is the brown line between the "burnt" pins a slot in the board? Any other visual indications of something amiss? I guess I should pull mine out but too many projects right now.

The "new" transmission in The Enterprise is still purring along after 4000+ miles so we're down to less than a dollar per mile! BTW, the dealer listened to my sob story about how I lost a brand new Mobil 1 oil change and sent me a check to cover the oil - $22 odd bucks I think it was. So total cost of repair comes down to $3435. Maybe I should go back to Ford with this lower figure!

Which bearing do you need? For your information, here are some links about transmission problems: CSP 14B07 TSB 15-0174 TSB 17-0039The last one lists the the Transfer Shaft Kit as part number FG9Z-7H348-D. The bearings on this shaft have been a source of problems. The kit is available here (as well as other places). (Note that the plug-in hybrids use a different kit.) I don't know if this kit is what you need but hope these links will be a help.

Our 2013 SE (179k miles) now intermittently makes an abrupt "pop" sound when accelerating from a standstill after braking to a stop. It definitely seems to require a moderately abrupt start off and it can happen even if the ICE does not start. I don't think it has ever happened after coasting to a stop or braking very gently. It seems it started about a 1000 miles after having the transmission replaced, latch recall done, and rear brake rotors/pads replaced. No idea if its related to any of that work. It sounds like its under the car but hard to tell where. Any ideas or similar experiences?

Thank you kostby for providing these numbers and charts. Its been interesting to follow the numbers over the years - sad to see them going to zero. I hope we soon hear more about what Ford will have in the future. They (and others) have a way to go to catch Tesla at this point who are selling over half of all "electrified" cars in the US. And Tesla is BEV only while most of the others are hybrid or plug-in hybrid. For me, there's still not a BEV I really want - starting to think I just need to hold out for the VW I.D. Buzz in 2022!

So glad to hear its open! Since there was voltage at the connector but no clicking sound, it might have been a connector problem. Look at both sides closely with a magnifier to see if anything looks strange and then spray it with DioxIT contact cleaner - its supposed to be the best. Here's one link but there are many other sellers of course. Also, any possible way of attaching a manual release cable that one could snake out a hole somewhere? Its totally crazy not to have an emergency release with so many possible failure modes.

Sensible sizing is, I feel, the big reason people like SUVs/CUVs. A taller vehicle (overall and at the back) allows higher seats (more comfort), easier entry/exit (people and cargo), a more commanding view of the road and, yes, curb clearance! Once people get over thinking "station wagon" and drop the "gas hog" image, they realize its a Sensible Utility Vehicle. Its really just a return to how "cars" were made in the 1940s at 66 to 70 inches tall - same as SUVs today! In comparison, today's "cars" are 10 inches lower. People drive an SUV and it feels "right", whether they think about the reasons or not.

You need a separate login. Did you set up one?

So glad to hear that your car is running quiet again and that all went well. Your great report shows how important it is to check all options and get all the advice and recommendations you can.

My car was built same month. Haven't seen that code (but I do use non-ethanol which may be helping). BTW, you can depress the accelerator to force ICE to start.

Was it engine oil or transmission fluid? Use the Search box at top of page for oil leak. My problem was transmission fluid - see this topic.