ScubaDadMiami

If the next version continues to have the dead pedal, I will be looking for another car. To me, it's that bad. Ford, get rid of the dead pedal!

From what I can see, it looks like there are two variations of body style, with only the Grand C-MAX having those rear doors. The red C-MAX is the body style like ours, and it doesn't have it. I prefer our wheels and the styling of the dash/console of our model over the Euro version, but I like the flush fog lamps and other aero improvements of the front of the Euro.

I don't notice any difference.

I've never been a car enthusiast. Sure, I've enjoyed many of my previous vehicles, but no more than enjoying a comfortable chair. The C-MAX changed all of that, as far as I am concerned. I call my C-MAX a computer on wheels, and I love tech toys.

It could be that you have a bad GPS module. Even with proper software updates, you will not have accurate readings. (I think that it was Jus that had this problem, but I can't remember. In the end, the new GPS module fixed the problem.) Request a new GPS module. Make sure to use your cell phone/video to document several incidents. That way, the dealer can't try to say that it's a one-time thing.

As soon as any issue happens, that is the time to run a Vehicle Health Report. It may or may not show, but that is your best chance to document things like this.

Even if it just takes care of the dust that clings to the rear of the vehicle, that would be worth it.

No Auto. Always set temperature manually, and turn on recirculate. Second, try to use fan speed more (5 bars or so) and lower temperature less (I go with 73-75F). Give whatever is the highest temperature that you can comfortably stand with a higher fan speed. You can also lower the temperature and turn on a high fan speed during the first ICE burn of the day, since ICE will already be running long enough to warm up and raise SOC. Once the cabin is cooled enough, raise the temperature to the highest that is comfortable for you. If you haven't already tinted your windows, doing so will also help. I spend six months a year driving in 90F+ conditions. Even though I keep my home at 68F, I have slowly increased the temperature in my C-MAX, and I have actually gotten used to it enough that I can still be comfortable at 73-74F with fan speed at 3-5 bars, most of the time. Oh, and by the way, I managed a 700+ tank with these settings for most of the tank. It can be done.

Your easiest bet (without being wasteful) is probably just to do the black paint option.

The same thing happens to me, but I have only talked to Hybrid version owners. Just the other day, I pulled up along side of a C-MAX (my twin in all respects but the Pano Roof) while going down the roadway, and I gave a big, cheerful wave to the other driver. She looked at me like I was a bad guy eyeing a potential victim. I've talked to other unenthusiastic owners, too. They had no complaints, but they didn't even know their lifetime numbers or how to find this kind of information. To people like this, the C-MAX is just a car.

Although I pretty successfully done a touch up on my C-MAX, I've decided to take mine to a body shop for professional touch ups, every so often. This was a big reason for going with Oxford White: the touch-ups will cost less.

Too bad they don't make this for things other than bikes, such as cargo carriers.

I had the dealer use 0W20. It was about $70. I am not finding any difference in my fuel economy. This is after 5,000+ miles on the 0W20 oil.

This is why I always try to arrive at my home with at least half to 3/4 battery charge. Rather than crawling through my parking garage (highrise building has a long distance to get out of the garage) and driveway with ICE running, I EV out of my building. I try to wait for a blank space in oncoming traffic, before pulling out onto the roadway. That way, I can use that last little bit of juice in the HVB to ramp up my speed to about 25+ MPH before ICE first kicks in. By that time, I have squeezed out the all but last of the charge from the HVB, per the battery icon. (Yes, I know that this really isn't the full extent of the last of the charge; there is still charge that is not indicated by the icon.) When ICE first kicks in, I drain perhaps one more tick from the HVB (the indicator is at the very bottom of the battery indicator) while I mosey up to about 30-35 MPH, the speed of the road fronting my building. This usually takes 10 to 15 seconds. At that point, even though ICE is running, you will see the arrow on the battery pointing down. After that, I keep ICE running to give my first charge-up of the HVB for the drive. This procedure has worked well.

Congratulations, HannahWCU, one of the few, and our newest member of the 800+ Club! :rockon: Extra credit for mountain driving!

Absolutely. I've not had a single fail (unless it was something like my foot clearly not reaching under the bumper) since the fix. This was a known issue, and your dealer should have checked out the situation.

From what I recall, the gas indicator comes on at 50 miles range, the fuel level in the tank changes to yellow. I think that at 30 miles (can't remember now) it turns red. From past threads, I recall hearing that the screen will show locations of gas stations at the time the indicator turns red.

That was the same question that I had in mind.

Happens all the time. Gas prices go up, and everyone starts running to fuel efficient cars. Gas prices go down, and everyone starts buying gas guzzlers.

I was definitely sweating it for the last 30 miles of my 800 tank.

Good question. I've done this and that, but I have not been inspired by any moves that I made on that front.

I think that there is a version (maybe it was 3.5) that required the dealer to do it. Some versions you can update via a USB drive, and some have to be done by the dealer.

You can surely bet that I did the overwhelming majority of my 5,400 mile trip to New England and back on Eco Cruise. I would not even fathom to consider manual driving for such a distance. It would take too much focus and work, and I am willing to bet that there would not be much of a difference in the fuel economy over such long runs when using one method or the other with a non-superhuman driver. When I am local, I make highway runs for up to about 30 minutes or so without cruise control of any kind, because I can read the road (hills, bridges, overpasses) and adjust accordingly. I get better MPG when I fly these shorter runs manually, but I have to do more work to make that happen. For these shorter distances, it is not the big deal to focus on pedal management. There is probably a line that is somewhere between, and where that comes out depends on the tolerance of the driver. It's all good. :thumbsup:

This does not sort the coins, I believe. So, you end out having to pick through it to find the right change.

Just so it is clear, other than on flats with Eco Cruise, you will actually do better by reading the road conditions and flying manually and without Cruise. The issue will be that you will have to do a lot of work for the extra MPG. That's just too much work for long trips at highway speeds.