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Hey folks, I just bought a 2017 C-Max Energi with 72k miles on it. The dealer told me that they needed to jump it to start it up to get it ready for me to look at (either Friday evening or Saturday morning). At the end of my work shift yesterday, I needed to jump it. I was honestly lucky that the battery found enough charge to unlock my doors. So far, my battery has tested at around 12.2-12.4 volts. Noticed a couple other topics that might be pointing to a 12v battery replacement, I just wanted to start a new thread to make is easier for me to get the help I might need. I haven't had the chance to take the battery out to get the date on it, but the Ford Dealer "inspection" sticker from November on my windshield marks all systems good to go... So between potentially the ACM power drawing or needing a new battery in general, any other thoughts form you good folks? Thanks

Hi everyone, I'm trying to help my mother in law get back into her car. 2016 C-Max Energi. It has been at the dealership for nearly 5 months waiting for Ford to make the part she needs. Q4 2022 came and went and now they want her to take the car back because it is taking space on the lot and they don't know when/if a part (Telematic Communications Unit) will be available. After digging around the forums, reddit, and anything else I can find. Here is what I think I know. I would love any guidance y'all can provide on the bullets below. Most importantly I want her to be able to drive her car with confidence. We really don't care about all the bells and whistles at this point. Ford has known issues with 3G/4G and releases a TCU upgrade for a lot of models but unfortunately with the C-MAX it doesn't work. They go back to the drawing board and a year later there is still no solution. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10204043-0001.pdf I don't really know what the TCU does but I did see in one of the threads that it isn't required. https://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/14268-tcu-module-power-drain-affects-power-steering/?tab=comments#comment-87268 I would love to know more about how to "bypass" if that is an option. While it would be nice to have all the features of the vehicle, at this point all she needs is a car that gets from point A to B. Reading through other owner's issues I see C-MAX has had lots of problems over the years (power steering, radio, battery, etc) - they all seem to have the common issue of "battery drain." A lot of the stuff is dated and my guess is there is a troubleshooting guide somewhere or perhaps someone here that can help me go through a few diagnostic tests and or known fixes for common things. I'm willing to pull fuses or ask for software updates if I know what to ask for. I'm also willing to just keep the car on a trickle charger for the next 6 months if that will help. Have her keep jumper cables or a battery jump starter in the trunk. Anything really to get her back into her car. Questions: 1) Before we get the car back from the dealer is there anything we should be asking them? Specific diagnostics run, results, error codes? 2) Are there any resources OTHER than the dealer. Perhaps someone who might be able to help and is within 2 hours of Los Angeles? Thank you! - Amanda

Have any of the high mileage users, or others had occasion to have had to replace their high voltage batteries? I'm just curious. I remember that the original warranty was for 100,000 miles on the batteries and I've exceeded that in my 4 years ownership. So I was just wondering if this is something I should start planning for or if the actual usage lifespan should well exceed that number. My feeling is that one should see an increase of the charge/discharge cycles or decrease in the length of EV usage that should be noticeable when they reach their end of life cycle. But, I really don't know. So I'm just posing the question.

Hi, I recently bought a Ford C-Max Energi I had a yellow wrench signal come one, so decreased power though. When I turned the car off and back on it had gone away. I took it to the mechanic and they read the error code (P0dd6) and said one that indicates one of the batteries needs replacing but they couldn't tell me which one although they think it’s the electric one. Is there any chance this is a weird glitch that a software update might resolve or maybe the 12v battery needs to be replaced? Nothing has happened to the car and it isn't acting weird except that light coming on one time. It also only has 102,000 miles on it which seems really odd for the battery to die that young. I'm a student without that much extra cash on hand. Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated! Is there any way for me to find out if the electric battery actually needs to be replaced without paying a large fee to have a ford dealer look at it? And if it does and it's not some weird glitch, is there anyone who fixes ford electric batteries? I definitely can't afford a new one... Anyway this is all super stressful for me.

I'm about to buy a 2013 C-Max SEL Hybrid. Its in great condition and only has 64K miles. My only reservation is the life span of the high voltage battery. First, any issues with the battery? Second, if something needs to be replaced how expensive is it? Thanks for any info you may be able to offer.

Apologies for yet another post about a dead cmax... I have a 2013 Ford C-Max Hybrid only vehicle. In the two years I've owned it, it has been unable to start unassisted 6 times, leading to significant tow and repair costs. So far, nobody has been able to fix the problem. The very first time they found a loose relay in the trunk, and the 3rd time they replaced the battery, but five different shops including two dealerships have run diagnostics and been unable to find the problem causing this. The last three times have gone the exact same way. All in the last 6 months, with a less than 1 year old battery. First, the audio stops working--won't turn on or off with the power button, can't play radio or connect to a phone. Screen lights up and the navigation/menu system still works fine. Then, about two days later, the car will be dead. Won't unlock with the remote, no dome lights, nothing. Twice we have jumped it, and that completely fixes it--still took it to a shop each time, but it turns on and off like a champ and shows no other symptoms/no signs of battery draw. The most recent time we didn't even try to jump it and had it towed in dead so they could at least see we weren't making stuff up. Dealership had it for a week, didn't find any problems or offer any explanation. Just charged us for labor and diagnostics and sent us on our way. Anyone have any experience with these problems? I'm open to all options--preventatives, maintenance, work arounds, fixes, literally anything. I can't accept that I have a 6 year old car that won't start without a jump every 4 months. Any help is much appreciated!

Hi: I have a 2013 hybrid and have installed a towing hitch for a motorcycle trailer. I also purchased a powered taillight converter I need to install. It needs a 12v connection for power. Under the utility cover in the cargo area of the car, there is a battery connection. I can't figure out if this is the 12v battery connection I should use of if this is the high-voltage battery I should stay away from. Nothing in the tutorials or on-line information seems to have this important information. Does anyone know? I suppose I could put a multi-meter on it and see. Cheers and thanks

Hello all, I have a 2013 C-Max SE with 87,000 miles on the clock. Recently the car has been acting strange. Sometimes we cannot open the car via the remote and once in, the car will start and the remote works again. The other day we started it and the wrench came on and went away. Another time after starting it, it warned my wife not to do over 80 mph. Today the car was dead after my wife drove it work. I hooked up jumper cables and after a few minutes, the dash came to life and it started. However the wrench was on, the airbag light was on, and it said "Power Steering Failure." I drove it home and could barely turn the wheel left or right and it needed force to turn the corner despite the car moving. Once home, I turned it off and started it back up and the wrench stayed on but the power steering came back to life and the airbag light disappeared. I want to try a new 12V battery but I fear something more sinister is going on. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

I have a 2013 cmax and I recently bought a dashcam, and installed it using a fuse tap. I used fuse spot 85 which I checked with my multimeter and it only got power when the car was running. It seems my cmax didn't like it, since I woke up one day to a dead battery. Does anybody have any suggestions for a fuse spot that I can use instead?

OK, its "off topic" for sure but couldn't help noticing the term - "C-Max Technology" in AGM batteries. So now you can have a C-Max battery in your C-Max!

With detailed data from OBDII (see this post) I've started thinking about ways to track the health of our HV batteries. But first, some of the data available from the Battery Energy Control Module (BECM) is: Battery Age: Mine is 23 months - sounds right for car built in April 2013.Battery voltage: Runs about 282V. A 5 minute run gave min/max of 264V/303V.Battery Current: Varied from -114 amps (charge) to 94 amps (discharge). Limits (see below) should be about +/-120 amps.Battery Temperature: My 5 minute run had values from 62 to 66F (mid 30s OAT).State of Charge (SOC): Both actual and displayed values in %. Fitting a straight line to the data gives: Actual SOC = 0.38545*(Displayed SOC) + 26.4%Charge Limit: Reads a constant 35000 watts. At 282 volts that's 124 amps.Average Cell Voltage: My min/average/max for this PID was 3.48/3.71/3.99 voltsMinimum Cell Voltage: My min/average/max for this PID was 3.44/3.70/3.97 voltsBattery Cell Variation: My min/average/max for this PID was 0.00/0.02/0.07 volts. On a statistical basis the % of times each value was registered was: 0.00=0.3% 0.01=58.8% 0.02=24.3% 0.03=10.1% 0.04=6.0% 0.05=0.4% 0.06=0.1% 0.07=0.02% (only once!)SOC Module Variation: Reads a constant 1.62% - not sure what this means. Will it go up?In Car Temp: Mine read 52 or 54 F the whole time (we Virginians are tough!). Of course this is probably the inlet cooling air, so with 30s outside and recirc heat likely on up front, the air reaching the battery could well be that cool (but then we don't sound so tough).Fan Speed: Read 0 during this run - I guess the HVB wasn't warm enough.So back to health, here are some possibilities. Battery Cell Variation: With age, this might go up. Right now I have a maximum of 0.07 volts. You must be careful though because the maximum values appear to depend on the maximum current. Will try and set up a "standardized" test where the battery is run through heavy charge/discharge cycles of, say, +/-100 to 120 amps. Battery Cell Average & Minimum Voltage: Might be useful but the above "variation" may be enough of an indicator. Battery Resistance: This value must be calculated. Using the average pack voltage, voltage variation with charge/discharge and battery current, the resistance of my battery appears to be about 0.10 to 0.15 ohms. Again the above test should give a more consistent value. Resistance may vary with SOC and temperature and is expected (?) to go up with time. Battery Age: For reference Total Miles: For reference (and maybe lifetime EV miles as well)Sure wish I had numbers from when The Enterprise was new - and from other cars out there!

I thought my 2014 C-Max was the greatest car in the world until the second dead battery in the morning. I took it in to the dealer after the first time, and supposedly it was fixed, but yesterday morning it was dead again. This time after the AAA recharge the clock won't re-set. What is the cause of this problem? What needs to be done to fix it permanently? What do I need to ask the dealer to do?

I thought my 2014 C-Max was the greatest car in the world until the second dead battery in the morning. I took it in to the dealer after the first time, and supposedly it was fixed, but yesterday morning it was dead again. This time after the AAA recharge the clock won't re-set. What is the cause of this problem? What needs to be done to fix it permanently? What do I need to ask the dealer to do?

I am a new owner (within about a week) of a 2013 C-Max Hybrid SE. I absolutely love it but am realizing there is a lot more to driving a hybrid than I thought. My initial impression was simply that; braking charges the battery, as long as there is battery power the car will have no reason to use gas. It will only switch to a gas engine when you have been unable to charge the battery and do not have enough power. But, over the last few days I took a small trip (about 75 miles) and between the trip there and back and some city driving during, I used about a half a tank of gas. While this is better than what my previous car would have used, I was confused because the battery was about half full the entire time. Why wouldn't it have used the battery instead of gas? I don't know all the terms everyone seems to be using and apparently there is clearly a lot more to owning a hybrid than I thought. Can anyone offer me a SIMPLE breakdown of how the engine vs battery thing works/what I can expect from my car/what I should be doing to get the best gas mileage/anything else I should know...it would be very much appreciated!

Did 'some' putzing around with the lights for a couple hours. Then drove the car in EV mode for 20 minutes. My wife may have driven in EV only mode for past 2 or 3 days. Got to destination, got out of car. closed door and heard a double honk TWO fast honks - Beep Beep. tried a few doors, all doors gave same double honk (perhaps car was still 'running'), not sure. came back out after maybe 30 minutes in store. Battery Dead, needed jump. So, question is whether A) how'd I kill the battery and B) if it was cumulative wear on battery, is the lesson learned that owers need to drive in non-EV mode at least a few miles every week to charge the 12V battery. or C) do I have a bad battery or charging system that isn't charging the battery properly.

Here is my alarm for the 12 volt battery. A makeshift affair at this point but low cost. Parts used are: Voltage monitor with LED and audio (beeper) alarm functions. Bought it here from New Harbor because it shipped from the US (it came in like two days). It is made for monitoring batteries in model aircraft so you know when to land! There are all sorts of things like this out there. Cable to connect to it easily - here's the link. Also from New Harbor. Three 470 ohm 1/4 watt resistors. A 1/2 amp fuse (do not connect anything to the battery without a fuse!) Red and black clip leadsThe monitor looks like this (the two black thing on the left are beepers): It can monitor up to 6 lithium cells at about 3.5 volts each. So I use the resistors to make it think its connected to a 3 cell battery with about 4 volts on each cell. You can set it to alarm (lowest cell) anywhere from 3.00 to 4.00 volts in 0.05 volt steps. Mine is set at 3.60 which, with my crummy resistors, should alarm at about 11.2 volts on the car battery. Here is the whole mess connected to my camping battery - monitor/alarm, resistors, fuse and clip leads: The display cycles through total voltage (shown above), largest delta between "cells" (don't care about that), and each "cell" voltage. The lowest one is important since it will trip the alarm. It is now connected under the hood all stuffed in a plastic bag near the grille and duct tapped in place (don't know if it can stand the heat). The beepers are quite loud so I should hear it out in the garage if I'm awake and in the main living area of the house. Asleep is another story but a $15 audio only baby monitor should solve that problem. The battery monitor draws 27 mA. The current goes to an average of 60+ with the alarm going off. I hope this is all a waste of time!

TSB 14-0173 DISCHARGED 12-VOLT BATTERY OR SERVICE ADVANCETRAC CLUSTER MESSAGE AFTER FOUR WHEEL FLAT TOWING BEHIND RV - BUILT ON OR BEFORE 7/22/2014 Publication Date: September 16, 2014 FORD: 2013-2014 C-MAX ISSUE: Some 2013-2014 C-MAX Hybrid or Energi vehicles built on or before 7/22/2014 may exhibit a discharged 12-Volt battery or a Service AdvanceTrac cluster message after four wheel flat towing behind a recreational vehicle (RV). ACTION: Follow the Service Procedures steps to correct the condition. SERVICE PROCEDURE If the vehicle is a 2013 C-MAX Hybrid or Energi, reprogram the powertrain control module (PCM) and the instrument panel cluster (IPC) to the latest calibration using IDS release 91.05 and higher. Make sure you are connected to the internet when entering module programming to obtain the latest updates. Calibration files may also be obtained at www.motorcraftservice.com. Proceed to Step 3.If the vehicle is a 2014 C-MAX Hybrid or Energi vehicle built on or before 7/22/2014 reprogram the PCM to the latest calibration using IDS release 91.05 and higher. Make sure you are connected to the internet when entering module programming to obtain the latest updates. Calibration files may also be obtained at www.motorcraftservice.com. Proceed to Step 3.Print the customer towing instructions attached to the end of this article and provide it to the customer. Make sure the customer is aware they can ignore the SHIFT TO PARK or TRANSMISSION NOT IN PARK messages during recreational towing that will appear in the instrument cluster when the transmission is in the N position and the ignition is in the off position.

TSB 14-0155 HYBRID AND ENERGI – DISCHARGED 12 VOLT BATTERY Publication Date: August 27, 2014 FORD: 2013-2014 C-MAX This article supersedes TSB 13-7-10 to update the model years, Title, Issue Statement and Service Procedure. ISSUE:Some 2013-2014 C-MAX Hybrid and Energi vehicles may experience a concern with a discharged 12 volt battery. ACTION:Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition. SERVICE PROCEDURE Disconnect the 12-volt battery. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 414-01.Connect the Rotunda Midtronics GR1-190 or GRX-3590 Diagnostic Battery Charger to the vehicle’s battery terminal posts only. Battery cables must be removed and no other connections, such as body ground, can be in the circuit during testing. Select diagnostic fast charge. On GR1-190 only - select above 400 km (250 miles) or below 400 km (250 miles) based on vehicle mileage. Select battery type Lead Acid. Enter cold cranking amp (CCA) rating of 390 CCA. Did the battery pass the load test? Yes - allow battery to fully charge. After charging is complete, reconnect the 12-volt battery. Refer to WSM, Section 414-01. Proceed to Step 4. No - record the failure code. Replace the battery. Refer to WSM, Section 414-01. Make sure the 12-volt battery is fully charged. Using Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS) service tool, perform the battery monitoring system (BMS). Reset after the new battery is connected. Proceed to Step 4. Reprogram the powertrain control module (PCM), DC/DC converter (DCDC), instrument panel cluster (IPC), gateway module (GWM) and, if equipped with the 4.2-inch display, the front control / display interface module (FCDIM) using IDS release 91.05 or higher. Make sure you are connected to the internet when entering module programming to guarantee you will receive the latest updates. Calibration files may also be obtained at www.motorcraftservice.com. Inspect vehicle communication module (VCM) and cables for any damage. Make sure scan tool connections are not interrupted during programming. Turn off all accessories (radio, heated/cooled seats, head lamps, interior lamps, HVAC system, etc.) and close doors. Disconnect or depower any aftermarket accessories. Disable IDS scan tool sleep mode, screen saver and hibernation modes. Create all sessions key on engine off (KOEO). Starting the vehicle before creating a session will cause errors within the programming inhale process. Connect a battery charger to the 12-volt battery. Is the vehicle an Energi built on or before 9/12/2013? Yes - replace telematics control unit (TCU) Module. Refer to WSM, Section 415-00. Proceed to Step 6. No - proceed to Step 6. Is the vehicle built on or before 6/3/2013? Yes - proceed to Step 7. No - proceed to Step 8. Inspect wiring for damage or chafing in rear liftgate area, driver door connector wire harness C339, and front passenger door connector wire harness C340 (Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4). Is damage or chafing present? Figure 1 - 14-0155 Figure 2 - 14-0155 Figure 3 - 14-0155 Figure 4 - 14-0155 Yes - repair circuits as needed. Refer to Wiring Diagram (WD), Section 5-1. After repair, wrap affected area with 3M™ Temflex™ Cotton Friction Tape or equivalent to prevent future concerns. Proceed to step 8. No - wrap affected area with 3M™ Temflex™ Cotton Friction Tape or equivalent to prevent future concerns. Proceed to step 8. Print information sheet and provide to customer. Communicate to customer that Ford recommends disconnecting any devices attached to the auxiliary power port, USB port and OBDII port when the vehicle is turned off (e.g. cell phone chargers, USB devices, insurance company snapshot devices, etc.). (Figure 5)

Hi there! I just came home with my 2015 hybrid last night. Upon driving it, I notice that it will tell me brake check/charge 100% complete but the little battery is never 100% full. It is only 3/4 full. Does it ever get full on the symbol? Thanks for your help!

Hi Everyone, I recently pruchased a certified, preowned 2013 C-MAX hybrid SEL and have a problem. I'm the kind of guy who loves tech stuff, pushing buttons, and getting setting just right. So, the other day (day 3 of ownership), I'm sitting in my car (it's off), in our parking garage, and getting everything setup just right, when all of a sudden I get a message to the effect of battery power saver mode off. The MFT screen gets a progress car on it, and within a minute or 2, the screen turns off. My only option is to turn the car on if I want to contoniue using the screen. I did some research online, but everything I found kept directing me to people who have a a traditional (non-hybrid) cars, or an electric car. ...so I'm a little lost. -I read a lot of comments about disconnecting the battery and resetting it. ...sounds a bit dangerous for my liking. I spoke to someone at my dealership (she was the receptionist in the service center, but assured me she knew what she was talking about.) ...after a few minute of jargon she goes off into a crazy rant about how hybrids are computers, and computers will rule all humans one day (I wish I was joking). -Anyway, a customer who was getting some maitainance done overheard my conversation, and said the symptoms my car was having sounded a bit off. I understand that after a certain amount of time, the battery saver feature would be helpful so I don't drain my battery. However, I dont get that I can't sit in my car and listen to the radio for even a matter of a few minutes with the car off. One of my favourite pastimes is going to the drive-in movie theater. Their directions are to turn the car off, and switch it to accessory mode. -Am I to believe, that with all the tech my car has, I cant accomplish this simple task? Does anyone have any experience with this problem? Thanks for any feedback!

The 2nd replaced, about a year and a half ago, 12V battery on my CMAX is probably not getting charged even after driving on highway for 50mins to 1hour recenlty: 01/20/2015 11:15AM, after parked the car for 3 hours after hi-way driving 1hour, turned the key to ignition postion 1 to get the radio playing. After 3mins, the radio shutoff, turned the key to ignition postion 3, the "low battery..." message appeared. Turned the car off, and turned the key to postion 1 again, 1 to 2 minus later the radio turned off again. Turned the car on, the "low battery" appeared again. This time I left the key at position 3 for 10mins, hopefully the 12V get charge. 01/21/2015 7:40AM, right after hi-way driving for about 50mins, parked the car, removed the key, radio still playing (have not open the door yet). After 1min, the "low battery" appeared but the screen immediately shutoff. Turned the key to position 3, and there it was the "low battery" appeared again. For each time, I got into and looked at the ET screen for the 12V voltage. If key was at postion 2, the 12V had 12.4Volt constantly. And when I turned the key to postion 3, it showed between 14.3 and 14.4 (flickering between those 14.3 and 14.4). I could have radio on for 20mins or more when key is at postion 1 or 10mins when the key is taken out before I open the driver door. The "low battery" happened from time to time before but never in twice in a row like the above. There were times I saw the "low battery" message and the radio was auto-shutoff. But immediately after that, took out the key, turned the key to position 3 and back to position 1: no "low battery" for 20mins or more until I shut the car off and opened the door. There were also times I saw the "low battery" message on the previous days. And after driving 1 to 2 hours, parked the car for 3 to 4 hour, and then the key to postion 1 and the radio play for 50mins or more before I turned off the car and locked the car. It is probably whatever computer component controlling the 12V battery charging or reading has gone haywire. Or it has always been like this, I do not know. Or the 12V battery is in need of another replacement, but then that replacement get no charging as it is always supposed to. Or another problem adding to the unknown phanthom discharge that still not sovled by Ford.

I spent some time getting my documents in order over the weekend and thought I would post it for everyone else's enjoyment. Overall it has been frustrating to deal with the multiple issue but I still love driving this car. I've had service done in Harrisburg, PA and Charlottesville, VA. I'd recommend either of them as courteous and knowledgeable. I think corporate has been responsive to most issues, I just wish there weren't so many. 2/16/13. Purchased 2013 C-Max (base except winter package) in Feb of 2013. Purchased 75,000 mile 84 month extended service plan with it. I don't think Ford when I think hybrid so the warranty seemed like a good choice. Production date: Jan 2013 2/17/13. First dead battery was observed. Documented with call to Roadside and emails to dealership. Roadside jumped the dead battery and I let it run to charge. Assumed it was a problem with the car sitting on the lot or my mistake. 03/??/13. A dead battery occurs that I jumped myself after purchasing portable charger on earlier advice from this site. 14C03 Seatback weld problem. Car is from affected production date but not part of recall. No problems yet. 04/05/13. Replacement of vapor management valve as the result of a dashboard warning while driving. I think it took two days for the part. 12V was tested and shown to be good. TSB 12-11-8 was applied to flash the FCDIM to address the 12V discharge problem. 06/2013. While on trip, car flashes 4-5 warnings related to issues with HV system and does not start. Roadside is called, but car starts fine after sitting for 40 minutes. I was never able to recreate this. Heat related? 8/12/2013. Oil change. Recall 13C02 Headliner was performed. Recall 13B07, PCM recalibration is performed. 10/02/2013. Mileage refund is received ($550), 13B10 customer satisfaction. Updated to 43 MPG combined. This was my average at the time so this seems like an adequate solution. At some point in 2013, TSB 13-7-10 was applied. Also I vaguely recall an update affecting mileage in response to 13B10, but don't remember that date. These were not on my other invoices so that is another two trips to the dealer. 1/03/14. Routine oil change. No issues. 5/17/2014. Routine oil change. 12V battery fails test. Replaced. Reprogrammed 13b12C. Recall 14S04, reprogram restraint control module is performed. Invoice shows code P2610 appeared requiring reprogramming of PCM. TSB 14-0020 is referenced. 07/16/14. Fuel economy is again updated to 40MPG combined with an additional payment ($475). I currently average 45 without much effort so I don't think this was warranted. 8/18/14. Find car 99% dead while parked in garage. Have car towed in. Dealer performs TSB 13-7-10, clears codes and notes SSM 44559. 12V discharge is currently being investigated by engineering, inspected water pump connectors. Contacted by regional CSM that indicates that he believes the problem is related to prior service not reprogramming all modules. I tell him I've had TSB 13-7-10 done before and don't think this will fix things. Ford offers to refund one car payment as show of good faith. 9/13/14. Routine oil change. Sometime prior to this the rear washer quit working. Faulty lines have been reported by others on this forum. Dealer orders parts but is not able to fit my repair in when I bring the car in for appointment. Contacts me 5 hours after I dropped it off to tell me this. Still need to resolve this. Notice TSB 14-0155. Related to wiring harness and dead 12V. I suspect this has similar routing to rear washer fluid lines. Definitely want to have this done. Maybe it's good they missed the wiper appt., they can look at this at the same time. 09/25/14. Recall 14S21 is issued for my car, restraint control module replacement. Need to schedule. 09/28/14. Notice creaking noice from plastic part on front driver and passenger door. Rear driver door has seal folded under when door is closed. Still need to resolve this. 10/03/2014. Ford follows through with one month's payment. CSM unresponsive to email. I hope he's okay. I need to contact the dealer when I can clear the time to discuss this.

Well I did some research on the 12 volt Battery and came up with some interesting INFO. Someone may have done this already. The 12v battery in car Part# BXT-67R-390CCA yet in the OM the replacement batteries listed are Part# BXT-96R-500CCA and BXT-96R-590CCA. The dimensions of BXT-67R are 8"L X 6"W X 7" H. The only place I could find a battery for CMAX other than FORD was Batteries+Bulbs Part# SLI 96R for $107 9.56"L X 6.87"W X 6.87" H. This would be a great solution if it fits, going from 390CCA to 600CCA with 60% more power may eliminate dead 12v battery problem. IMO :) Paul

I have just had my 8th flat battery ....every time it happens I take it back to my Ford dealer, they run diagnostics, update software and say it is fixed but it never is. It would of have happened even more than 8 times but I have learned to listen to the car when I turn it off....if it is still 'humming' I know it hasn't turned off properely and I just restart the car and turn it off again. Yesterday it went into to have a recall repair done on it - and today flat battery. I am seriously thinking I will have to buy a portable battery charger to carry with me at all times as one of these days it is going to happen when I am not at home. Thankfully to date it has always gone flat between 2.30-3,00 am.

FORD: 2013 C-MAX This article supersedes TSB 13-04-13 to update the Part List/Service procedure and vehicle build date. ISSUE:Some 2013 C-MAX vehicles equipped with a 4.2 inch display radio only and built on or before 6/21/2013, may exhibit a 12-volt battery that is unable to maintain a charge or becomes discharged. ACTION:Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition. SERVICE PROCEDURE Reboot the scan tool. Install a battery charger. Reprogram the front control/display interface module (FCDIM) to the latest calibration using IDS release 85.05 or 86.01 and higher. This new calibration is not included in the VCM 2012.9 DVD. Calibration files may also be obtained at www.motorcraft.com. Be aware that electrical accessories may operate during programming and should be considered a characteristic. Reset FCDIM display time and date, refer to the Owners Manual, Audio System section. WARRANTY STATUS:Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage IMPORTANT: Warranty/ESP coverage limits/policies/prior approvals are not altered by a TSB. Warranty/ESP coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part and verified using the OASIS part coverage tool Note: Topic title edited by poster.