OBD2 – ELM 327 – Torque

[Phil1336]

Anyone spare an Aspirin?  Yikes!

[Sparky]

The nook works fine with a WiFi adapter. 

[evanrumund]

I know its an older post but my elm327 from eBay comes up with 0.0 for SoC. Which one did you get from Amazon?

[mtb9153]

Question for those owners who are monitoring their computer through the use of an external tablet or smart phone.  I was wondering which OBD wifi unit I should buy?  I have purchased for my iPad mini both EngineLink HD and DashCommand.  So I need to get a unit which will interface with my iPad mini or my iPhone5.  Do all of you have to remove the OBD cover because it looks like most of the ones I see on the internet are too long to fit behind the cover.  Any thoughts would be appreciated. EngineLink at it's opening page says to purchase an ELM 327 OBD-II WiFi adapter which looks like most I've seen for sale on the Net.

[plus 3 golfer]

I have the ELM 327 WiFi and it works great with my iPad for both Engine Link and Dash Command. With Engine Link you can enter custom PIDs but it needs support for the data logs as they are difficult to work with for analysis. Dash Command does not support custom PIDs but you can capture data and import the data into Scan XL for use in spreadsheets. Download the free trial version of Scan XL from Palmer Engineering onto a PC. http://www.palmerperformance.com/downloads.php

 

Also, there's a second OBDII port under the dash below and to the right of the port behind the door. You can leave the ELM plugged into it with no issues.

Edited March 17, 2014 by Plus 3 Golfer

[mtb9153]

This is encouraging to hear that both the app's I've purchased will work with my iPad mini.  As for downloading the free trail version of Scan XL, I work from a Mac Pro workstation so that won't work for me unless they offer a Mac version?  I thought I read somewhere that there were issues with leaving it plugged in all the time?

 

Thanks for the info Plus 3 Golfer

Edited March 17, 2014 by mtb9153

[Noah Harbinger]

Not sure if I mentioned it but I was using on my iOS device EngineLink, which is good for real time display but nearly useless for logging. I think it is specifically designed for the crappy chinese knockoff ELM probes you see on EBay/Amazon for $20 or so, since it works seamlessly with those, whereas some of the other devices seem to only work with the legit ELMs. 

[plus 3 golfer]

My "Chinese" ELM :) has been plugged in continuously since summer 2013 and works with both DashCommand and EngineLink. Specs say power consumption is 0.75 Watts. This is only about 60 mA maximum.  So, unless the 12V battery is failing, you should be okay for several 100 hours of discharge although my car never sets for more than a couple days without being used.

[mtb9153]

Great, I have never had any battery issues since purchase in September 2012.  Knock on wood.

[plus 3 golfer]

mtb9153, Palmer Performance Engineering has a forum and you could ask what they suggest about getting log files from DashCommand to a usable form in your MAC.  Here's my question on getting log files to PC in usable form.  I've noticed that PPE responds quickly to questions.

 

 

[mtb9153]

Thanks I will connect with them to see what there might be for Mac?

[mtb9153]

My "Chinese" ELM :) has been plugged in continuously since summer 2013 and works with both DashCommand and EngineLink. Specs say power consumption is 0.75 Watts. This is only about 60 mA maximum.  So, unless the 12V battery is failing, you should be okay for several 100 hours of discharge although my car never sets for more than a couple days without being used.

Plus 3 Golfer, wanted to ask you something.  My Interface came today and it has a small CD with drivers I presume?  Did yours?  If so where did you install them?  I'm certain that small disk can't be inserted into the CD player in my CMax.  Or do I install using my Mac Pro to install to my iPad Mini?  Uncertain?

[plus 3 golfer]

I don't think I got a mini CD (but may have).  There are no drivers to install anywhere. Put it in the CD tray on your Mac and see what's on it.  It's probably the ELM user's manual if you didn't get a hard copy and maybe a free Scan Diagnostic program to check for trouble codes.  

 

I just found this and it describes what I had to do to set up the WIFI in my Ipad.  Make sure you set HTTP Proxy to Auto.  

 

For my Ipad I WBIOBDII wi-fi connection and set its IP address to Static and 192.168.0.123 and subnet mask to 255.255.255.0 (do not put in a router number, that actually disconnected the unit from my IPad) I selected HTTP Proxy to Auto and selected "Ask to Join Networks" on the wi-fi screen. At that point I got the wifi active waves in the upper left of my screen and knew the unit was connected. I then selected the program "Engine Link HD" which I had previously downloaded from Itunes and found it was already configured to the correct parameters for the unit, TCP 192.168.0.10 and port 35000. I hit the connect button in the Engine Link HD program and was off to the races. 

 

[mtb9153]

So I guess you prefer EngineLink HD over DashCmd?  I noticed that EngineLinkHD would not switch the screen to portrait it wanted to stay in landscape.  Due to where I have my iPad mounted on the center console to the right of the shifter.  It is more difficult to rotate the screen to landscape.

[fbov]

...My Interface came today and it has a small CD with drivers I presume?  ...

FYI, a lot of the negatives on Amazon note that virus scanners find trojans on the disk that came with their OBD scanner. I didn't take the chance...

 

Of course, it's looking more and more like I got one that won't talk to Ford. It pairs fine, Torque Pro sees it and says it's a clone that's not compatible with Ford. Not all ELM 327's are created equal; looking at a different unit that's popular on a Ford truck forum so it should work... we'll see!

 

Have fun,

Frank

[ArizonaEnergi]

I'm jumping on this hobby today and ordering this $24 BT OBD2 device: http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-diagnostics-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2VZTJP6N0Z6QL

[mtb9153]

Im enjoying mine for my iPad mini, was nice to look down and get all the current real-time data through Dash Command for iPad,

[ArizonaEnergi]

I got my Elm 327 today and noticed that it's red light stays on all the time (at least an hour) after the car is shut off. Is that what others have experienced and is it a good idea therefore to only plug it in when it's going to be used?

 

UPDATE: Never mind. I see on Amazon that it does indeed stay on, but the draw is probably low. One person there recommended rewiring it to be supplied from an Accessory source rather than a Battery source so it would only be on when the car is on. Why do I suspect this would be a chore on the C-Max?

 

I think I will just keep it unplugged - until I start forgetting!

 

UPDATE2: I see pictures on Amazon of people installing small toggle switches in these things to turn them off. So that's an option.

Edited March 26, 2014 by ArizonaEnergi

[hybridbear]

I got my Elm 327 today and noticed that it's red light stays on all the time (at least an hour) after the car is shut off. Is that what others have experienced and is it a good idea therefore to only plug it in when it's going to be used?

 

UPDATE: Never mind. I see on Amazon that it does indeed stay on, but the draw is probably low. One person there recommended rewiring it to be supplied from an Accessory source rather than a Battery source so it would only be on when the car is on. Why do I suspect this would be a chore on the C-Max?

 

I think I will just keep it unplugged - until I start forgetting!

 

UPDATE2: I see pictures on Amazon of people installing small toggle switches in these things to turn them off. So that's an option.

I usually unplug mine, but this past week I forgot. The FFH sat for 7 days without being driven with it plugged in with no issues. Not even a battery saver message. If you drive your car regularly I don't think it should be an issue.

[hybridbear]

A friend of mine with a Fusion Energi made a good point yesterday when talking about OBDII adapters.

The WiFi adapter uses an open WiFi network.  Thus anyone can access to the car if it is plugged in.  If they do, they can obtain the following critical information:

The keyless entry code.
The transmitter ID codes for the keyfob.

In essence, they can program a new key and drive away with your car.

If someone comes along with a laptop and knows what they're doing, they can very easily get into your car.

 

Bluetooth adapters are slightly more secure since there is a passcode, but not much.

 

I will now make sure to always unplug the adapter when done driving.

[plus 3 golfer]

A friend of mine with a Fusion Energi made a good point yesterday when talking about OBDII adapters.

If someone comes along with a laptop and knows what they're doing, they can very easily get into your car.

 

Bluetooth adapters are slightly more secure since there is a passcode, but not much.

 

I will now make sure to always unplug the adapter when done driving.

 

They could just break a window, plug in an adapter, and still drive off. :)   I'm not worried since IMO it's a very, very, very low risk of a thief driving around looking for a C-Max with a WIFI adapter plugged in.  If it were that easy to steal a car, they will likely have an adapter with them.  

 

VW in 2007 (and I'd have to believe Ford would have something similar) put a new encryption on the immobilizer system so one cannot simply extract the key codes so that one can reprogram an RFID chip in a matter of several minutes.  I am not aware of any aftermarket device (like in the old days) that can obtain the VW code needed from the vehicle.  So, if a thief really wants the vehicle, they would simply tow it away as anything else would likely be impracticable.

 

Does your friend have a source for his information on cracking the Ford immobilizer system?  Or is it simply: anything is possible because one can access the vehicle via the OBDII port? 

[hybridbear]

They could just break a window, plug in an adapter, and still drive off. :) I'm not worried since IMO it's a very, very, very low risk of a thief driving around looking for a C-Max with a WIFI adapter plugged in. If it were that easy to steal a car, they will likely have an adapter with them.

 

VW in 2007 (and I'd have to believe Ford would have something similar) put a new encryption on the immobilizer system so one cannot simply extract the key codes so that one can reprogram an RFID chip in a matter of several minutes. I am not aware of any aftermarket device (like in the old days) that can obtain the VW code needed from the vehicle. So, if a thief really wants the vehicle, they would simply tow it away as anything else would likely be impracticable.

Does your friend have a source for his information on cracking the Ford immobilizer system? Or is it simply: anything is possible because one can access the vehicle via the OBDII port?

With a free program from the Internet he was able to remotely access his own car (a Fusion Energi) and view the door key codes to unlock the doors and also the info needed to program a new key. We also could access my FFH the same way if the adapter was left plugged in.

 

I agree that the odds are incredibly small of a thief carrying around a laptop with the program and knowing how to use it. But the vulnerability of the open wifi network in general is a good reason to not leave it plugged in all the time.

[ArizonaEnergi]

Had a first longer drive with my new ODBII sender and Torque. There are a couple of default and input PIDs that aren't working, but otherwise getting some good info. HBATT is a provided display aka Hybrid Battery charge. SofC is input from code provided here and is not working due to missing parens on my part. Inside Temp flips back and forth between inside and 419F, but appears to be the same as HV Temp. All the rest on this screen seem to be working.

 

I did find I had to exit the display screen and come back to get all of them to start showing data.

 

Edited March 31, 2014 by ArizonaEnergi

[plus 3 golfer]

With a free program from the Internet he was able to remotely access his own car (a Fusion Energi) and view the door key codes to unlock the doors and also the info needed to program a new key. We also could access my FFH the same way if the adapter was left plugged in.

 

I agree that the odds are incredibly small of a thief carrying around a laptop with the program and knowing how to use it. But the vulnerability of the open wifi network in general is a good reason to not leave it plugged in all the time.

Is there any information on the Ford immobilizer system with that software?  What does access mean? Unlock the doors? Start the car?

 

Like I said above, is it really as easy as breaking a window, plugging in an ELM 327 and stealing a new Ford?   That's not much different than hot jumping a pre-immobilizer car.    

 

One can certainly view / change programs / data with software tools (for example tuners do this all the time) but can they generate an encrypted authorization codes each time a vehicle is started.  A quick internet search indicates that no one has yet cracked (or admits to cracking) VW's gen 4 immobilizer.  Here's what VW says:

 

The immobiliser is an electronic anti-theft device. It is activated when the ignition key is removed and works in tandem with the engine control unit to prevent unauthorised starting of the engine as far as is possible. The system uses a transmitter and receiver unit in the ignition key (transponder). Whenever an attempt is made to start the engine, the transponder transmits a new code to the car’s electronics. The immobiliser will only be deactivated if the key has a corresponding authorisation code. New encryption technology protects the system against electronically copied vehicle keys. Note: No system can provide 100% protection against theft. If thieves possess the necessary skill and determination they may even be able to overcome the electronic immobiliser.

 

[hybridbear]

Is there any information on the Ford immobilizer system with that software? What does access mean? Unlock the doors? Start the car?

 

Like I said above, is it really as easy as breaking a window, plugging in an ELM 327 and stealing a new Ford? That's not much different than hot jumping a pre-immobilizer car.

 

One can certainly view / change programs / data with software tools (for example tuners do this all the time) but can they generate an encrypted authorization codes each time a vehicle is started. A quick internet search indicates that no one has yet cracked (or admits to cracking) VW's gen 4 immobilizer. Here's what VW says:

Like I said above, it wasn't hard to view the keycode to unlock the doors and the info needed to program a new key for the car. I don't know about much beyond that. There were other PIDs that we were more interested in than exploring the potential safety threat.