New C-Max, 4 days later, dead battery, clock won't set and time doesn't move

[Gerald Madsen]

I, too, am a new C-Max owner. . .and after 4 days of happy driving around town, went to start up the other day and found a completely dead battery.  No lights, no startup, nothing.  I called the 800# for a jump, they started it immediately, and I'm back on the road.

 

Then, after getting the jump, I noticed that the time wasn't set on the clock.  Originally, when the salesperson tried to set it, she couldn't do it, even after 3 tries.  While she set up my phone to the Sync system, I tried to set the clock and somehow got it to set correctly.  It worked fine, until the battery went dead.  Since getting the jump-start, the clock will NOT set to the current time, and we've noticed that it isn't running forward normally, but will occasionally move forward 1 minute.  We've only gone forward about 10 minutes in the past 24 hours.  Is there some known correlation between this clock discrepancy and the battery drain??  As I read through this forum, I've noticed some others with similar situations, and I'm trying to get a handle on what the problem might be.  I went to the dealer, but they were really busy, and I could only get an appointment for next week.  I guess in the meantime, I'll drive with NO CLOCK functioning.  Hopefully the battery will hold until then without another jump.

 

Any ideas?  Thanks in advance. . .

 

[kostby]

Welcome to ownership.

 

First, don't be discouraged! It is disappointing to come out to your brand new car and find it "DOA". The malfunctioning clock is one of the things that can happen when the 12-volt battery is discharged. 

 

In some C-MAXes (including ours, once) there are apparently computer-connected devices that don't always shut down properly when the car is turned off, but left unlocked.

So, based upon advice in these forums, lock your car every time you park it, even in the garage.

Locking the car seems to "encourage" everything to shut down properly, and not drain the 12-volt battery.

 

If your car was at the dealership for a long time before it was sold, it's possible that the 12 volt battery  was discharged, and did not get fully recharged before you purchased it.

If you have a 'trickle' charger, connecting the car overnight certainly won't hurt.

 

It's a good idea to keep careful records of any problems encountered, including dates, times, mileage, weather, the corrective actions taken by the dealership, as well as the names of people contacted (Dealer, Service Advisor, Ford Service 800#, Ford Roadside Assistance) and so on. Accurate records can help the Service department diagnose and correct problems. In addition, accurate records are essential should your car turn out to be a 'lemon' (every manufacturer builds a few), and after multiple failed attempts (as defined by state law) to correct the same problem, you want to use your state's 'Lemon Law'.

 

Ashley, a Ford employee, has the username FordService http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/3310-official-ford-service-rep/, and is another helpful resource here. As a new user in these forums, you need to post 5 forum messages before you are able to post a "PM" Private Messages to another user.

Edited June 7, 2014 by kostby

[mrobinso8]

Sorry but your problem is common with both the Fusion and C-Max hybrids.  Kostby gave good necessary advice.  I also recommend that every time it does not start to have Ford pay to jump it if you can put up with the inconvenience of waiting.  They are more likely to attempt a repair if it is costing them for each breakdown.  Also call Ford Customer Service and have a case number assigned for each event.

Edited June 7, 2014 by mrobinso8

[timwil56]

As far as the clock goes, have you tried a master reset or pulling fuse 67 to reset the radio/MFT/SYNC system?

[Ponypower]

I was wondering, do you have a 2013 or 2014.  I have owned my 2014 SEL since January, and have never had a problem with the battery or anything for that matter.  I don't do anything special like locking the doors in the garage.

 

Thanks, I am sure the dealer will take care of the problem. 

[FordService]

I, too, am a new C-Max owner. . .and after 4 days of happy driving around town, went to start up the other day and found a completely dead battery.  No lights, no startup, nothing.  I called the 800# for a jump, they started it immediately, and I'm back on the road.

 

Then, after getting the jump, I noticed that the time wasn't set on the clock.  Originally, when the salesperson tried to set it, she couldn't do it, even after 3 tries.  While she set up my phone to the Sync system, I tried to set the clock and somehow got it to set correctly.  It worked fine, until the battery went dead.  Since getting the jump-start, the clock will NOT set to the current time, and we've noticed that it isn't running forward normally, but will occasionally move forward 1 minute.  We've only gone forward about 10 minutes in the past 24 hours.  Is there some known correlation between this clock discrepancy and the battery drain?? ...

 

Gerald,

 

I'm glad that roadside assistance was able to come out and get you back on the road. If you run into any additional concerns with that, let me know. As far as the clock goes, because you mentioned the SYNC system, I'm thinking our SYNC/MFT experts are going to be the best option for you. Once you've got the 5 posts you need to send a private message, send one to FordIVTTeam. Someone there will lend you a hand.

 

Ashley

[Fred Iaccino]

My 2013 C-Max, approximatly 5000 miles,  this morning is completely dead, , after normal use yesterday and locking the doors and leaving my wallet is glove box,, not good,, could not unlock powered door locks. waiting for local roadside service. more to follow

[plus 3 golfer]

My 2013 C-Max, approximatly 5000 miles,  this morning is completely dead, , after normal use yesterday and locking the doors and leaving my wallet is glove box,, not good,, could not unlock powered door locks. waiting for local roadside service. more to follow

You should always be able to unlock the car with the key although I haven't tried it since I've never had a dead battery.

[Dottie]

I have a 2013 SE base model with the same issue.

 

There is a poll on the 'Batteries' thread.

 

Please vote if you are having any 12v battery issues.

 

After 5 posts...I am on number 3....you can loop in Ashley for assistance.

[mxanotcar]

There are two clocks: 1 in the center console (this one likely get stuck if 12V battery gets power outage), and 1 right next to the speedometer on right (this one you can change the clock if needed even after outage).  Mine in the center console get stuck and was unchangable after the dealership test the 12V battery load during the oil change.  I did not have time to take the car back in to the dealership and since I know about a few weeks the center clock would come back to regular time, I waited for about 2 weeks and the center clock was back to normal again.  This happened before during the other 12V power outages, and a hassle to go back into the dealership not to mention inconvenience.

 

You can use the other clock until the the center clock is back to normal.  If you do not mind going to the dealership, go for it.

[kostby]

You should always be able to unlock the car with the key although I haven't tried it since I've never had a dead battery.

 

Yes, the key on SE models always mechanically unlocks the drivers' door. (It's the only one with a mechanical lock.)

This gives you (or Ford Roadside Assistance) access to the hood release for a jump start using the jump start connections in the engine compartment.

 

On SEL and Energi SEL models, there is a key blade concealed inside the Intelligent Access key fob that can be used to mechanically unlock the driver's door in the case of a dead 12v battery, or dead key-fob battery.

[JAZ]

"On SEL and Energi SEL models, there is a key blade concealed inside the Intelligent Access key fob that can be used to mechanically unlock the driver's door in the case of a dead 12v battery, or dead key-fob battery."

 

I would recommend everyone with a key blade attempt to use it before a crisis occurs:  it can be quite difficult to apply sufficient leverage to unlock the door, and it would be best to determine how to manipulate the key when it is more convenient to do so.  I wrapped a handkerchief around my key and was able to open the door, but anyone with reduced strength in their hands/fingers might need pliers or some other tool to apply the required leverage.

[shinytop]

Ahh, one more excuse to go play with my car.  My wife keeps asking me what new feature I am checking out now.

[lakeladyar]

took my C-max in for the latest recall. when I got home I noticed the clock in the center console wasn't working again . It happened before when I had battery failure. I took it to my Ford dealer and was told that Ford is trying to find a fix. I wasn't planning on getting to know my service guys quite this well.

[plus 3 golfer]

"On SEL and Energi SEL models, there is a key blade concealed inside the Intelligent Access key fob that can be used to mechanically unlock the driver's door in the case of a dead 12v battery, or dead key-fob battery."

 

I would recommend everyone with a key blade attempt to use it before a crisis occurs:  it can be quite difficult to apply sufficient leverage to unlock the door, and it would be best to determine how to manipulate the key when it is more convenient to do so.  I wrapped a handkerchief around my key and was able to open the door, but anyone with reduced strength in their hands/fingers might need pliers or some other tool to apply the required leverage.

When you remove the key from the FOB, there's a slot inside the FOB to insert the end of the key into. The FOB thus acts as a lever arm making turning the key easy.in the lock.

[From Speed6ing 2 C-Maxing]

When you remove the key from the FOB, there's a slot inside the FOB to insert the end of the key into. The FOB thus acts as a lever arm making turning the key easy.in the lock.

That is a great tip.  I've played around with the blade key several times, and have always been able to turn the key, although it was hard.  This will definitely help in the future if I need to do it again.

[Smiling Jack]

When you remove the key from the FOB, there's a slot inside the FOB to insert the end of the key into. The FOB thus acts as a lever arm making turning the key easy.in the lock.

 

Interesting, but mine does not seem to fit well into that.  I could perhaps force it in a bit and hold it in while turning, but it does not seem to be designed for that purpose.  Am I missing something?

[plus 3 golfer]

Yes, it's not a snug fit and I did hold it while pushing inwards and turning but it turns easily to open the lock..

[Zathrus]

There are two clocks: 1 in the center console (this one likely get stuck if 12V battery gets power outage), and 1 right next to the speedometer on right (this one you can change the clock if needed even after outage).  Mine in the center console get stuck and was unchangable after the dealership test the 12V battery load during the oil change.  I did not have time to take the car back in to the dealership and since I know about a few weeks the center clock would come back to regular time, I waited for about 2 weeks and the center clock was back to normal again.  This happened before during the other 12V power outages, and a hassle to go back into the dealership not to mention inconvenience.

 

You can use the other clock until the the center clock is back to normal.  If you do not mind going to the dealership, go for it.

 

Does anyone know of a way to set the center clock on base SE model screen? Dealer applied software update for airbag recall yesterday, and it has been not working ever since (It's really slow and I am not able to set using the Menu button...Clock Setting).  Do I really have to wait 2 weeks? 

[kaptnk228]

You should always be able to unlock the car with the key although I haven't tried it since I've never had a dead battery.

 

Our battery and charging system died last week.  Unlocked the door with the key okay.  Put a booster battery on the terminals under the hood and the ALARM would not stop.  Called 2 dealers to find out what to do.

 

Push the door unlock on your remote control to Stop the Alarm.

 

Our battery was dead and the vehicle would not run when boosted.  I charged the battery to 75% and tried to drive to the dealer some 20 km away.  The car died with little warning on the road.  This is a very very bad thing to happen.  No power steering or brakes.

 

NOT WARNING LIGHTS OF THE PROBLEM.

 

Pushed the dealer to tell me WHY the battery failed and it took them over a day to tell me that the charging module had failed.

 

Four days later and we are still driving the rental Fusion which I love.  I have put over 1000 miles on the Fusion 2.5 l which at 66 mph gives around 41 mpg and 37 mpg at around 72 mph.

 

I have written Ford to modify the instrumentation panel to include a battery voltage gauge and a temperature gauge for the coolant.  I will be using a plug in Voltmeter until this is fixed. ($3 from Amazon).

 

My 2013 C-Max is Not fault tolerant.  The car must never died on the highway as ours did.  There is always power in the Li battery and the ICE can also work to keep the Li ion battery voltage charged.

 

The current battery alarm did not flash until the voltage reached 12.0 V or what a completely dead battery voltage is.  I believe that this is a programming error.  The alarm MUST come on at and below 12.8 V so that we know that the charging system is not working.  YOU COULD BE KILLED BECAUSE OF THIS SMALL PROBLEM.

 

UPDATE 19 Dec 2014

 

Ford replaced the dc/dc  charger, battery, and most importantly the high amp fuse which was causing the drain in the first place.  I don't know if the dc/dc charger failed of if the system voltage was lower than specification.  I do know that the fuse element dropped the bus voltage down by at least 1 volt and once replaced it is now showing 14.7-15 Volts when turned on.  Off voltage is way to low to be correct.  No problems for over 6 weeks.  I am checking the charging system voltage daily via a small plugin voltage meter, you could use the ETM but that is a pain.  There should be a voltage meter on the instrumentation panel.  Alarm problem requires a software update.

 

Batteries normally don't just die.  There is always something that is draining them and in this case (and possibly others) it is a large fuse that is causing a short circuit and draining power.  It must have been hot also.

Edited December 19, 2014 by kaptnk228

[SPL Tech]

Our battery and charging system died last week.  Unlocked the door with the key okay.  Put a booster battery on the terminals under the hood and the ALARM would not stop.  Called 2 dealers to find out what to do.

 

Push the door unlock on your remote control to Stop the Alarm.

 

 

You're clearly not a car person...

[mtb9153]

As far as the clock goes, have you tried a master reset or pulling fuse 67 to reset the radio/MFT/SYNC system?

how does one do a master reset?  For that matter I'm not even sure where the fuses are since I've never needed to get to them.

[mtb9153]

I'd be curious to know how many of these battery issues are connected with CMax which have sat on the lot for awhile? 
My local dealer at Frontier Ford has had several 2013 cars sitting for a year or more.  Also 2014's and the 2015's will be adding to that eventually.  These battery's can't just sit there and not be used and recharged as needed.  The dealers just aren't keeping them charged until they are sold.  Glad I bought Maxus the day she came off the transport truck.  Never been a problem since September 2012.

Edited November 25, 2014 by mtb9153

[Kelleytoons]

Mike,

 

I certainly think that's part of the problem, but remember we've seen folks here for whom Ford replaced the battery and they still have problems.  Certainly if I had a 2013 with even a couple of battery jumps needed the first thing I'd insist would be that they replaced the battery.  THEN if they still had issues they could be addressed better.

[scottwood2]

One of my co-workers bought a Ford Fusion (non-hybrid) and have had dead battery issues twice now.  First time they charged it, second time they replaced the battery.  So it is not just the C-Max that has this issue.  Don't know how long the vehicle sat on the lot before they took delivery. 

 

My C-Max sat on the lot for about 6 months before I bought it.  When i took delivery I noticed the cap for the jump start location was off.  Scared me but so far (3 months later) it has been OK.  (Knocking on wood many times) :happy feet: