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First oil change 2014 CMax SEL


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At my last change, I asked the Ford dealer to use "full synthetic 0W20." They went to AutoZone and bought house-brand oil. I've been doing oil analysis, after 2 changes using Ford 5W20 blend, and will not leave the brand of oil to others in the future. This looks interesting, but I suspect anyone's 0W20 synthetic would be similar, so I'm not terribly upset at my dealer, just surprised! They left  the box in the car, with one partial bottle.

 

Have fun,

Frank

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Yes, that's what I've used for my oil changes since new (coming up on 4th change).  There have been several thread on the subject of which oil to use and potential benefits of various oils with different viscosity. :)

 

According to Mobil with respect to FE: *Savings would be based on 0.2-2.3 percent potential fuel economy improvement obtained by switching from higher viscosity oils to a 0W-20 or 0W-30 grade..."   So, don't expect any savings from other similar viscosity synthetic oils.  

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Has any one used Mobil 1 0w-20 oil?  They have one engineered to increase gas mileage! I went on Mobil 1 web page and its recommended.

 

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I am also in the camp of having Ford do the oil change with 0W20, though I don't know which brand they used. I really can't say that I've noticed any difference in my fuel economy. No complaints; I have a lifetime of 49.2 MPG. I am just saying that I didn't notice any significant improvement in the 8,000 miles I have driven since the switch.

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The only thing synthetic will hurt is your wallet.  I run 0W20 in my Highlander, it's what is spec'd in the manual.  I've run synthetic blends and straight synthetic.  I noticed no difference in mileage between the two, nor would I expect to.   Go nuts and use what you want as long as it's in spec.   :)

Thanks for the responses, I guess the synthetic won't hurt anything.

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Doesent 0W20 provide reduced protection in the heat compared to 5W20? My understanding has always been that the lower-weight oils are thinner because oil tends to thicken up when cold, so you have to compensate by using thinner oils in the cold. However, in the heat the oil thins out so thinner oil provides less protection. I know my Jeep recommended 5W30 for cold temps and 10W30 for warm temps.

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The only thing synthetic will hurt is your wallet.  I run 0W20 in my Highlander, it's what is spec'd in the manual.  I've run synthetic blends and straight synthetic.  I noticed no difference in mileage between the two, nor would I expect to.   Go nuts and use what you want as long as it's in spec.   :)

Except that synthetic lasts MUCH longer, so it's only hurting your wallet if you're changing it too soon. Normal oil should be changed at 5k miles, synthetic blend at 7.5k and full synthetic at 10-12k in normal cars. Some full synthetic is actually rated by the oil manufacturer for 30k in a normal car. An example would be the Castrol SLX LongLife II. So in our car, synthetic blend is probably good for around 10k and full synthetic would likely be good for at least 15k unless you drive on the highway all the time. Either way, full synthetic will last longer. If you went with the Castrol SLX LongLife II in our car, I bet you could get 50k of city driving with filter changes every 15k.

 

Synthetic blend is a misleading title. Conventional blend is a better title as synthetic blend is actually only 30% synthetic.

Edited by SPL Tech
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Doesent 0W20 provide reduced protection in the heat compared to 5W20? My understanding has always been that the lower-weight oils are thinner because oil tends to thicken up when cold, so you have to compensate by using thinner oils in the cold. However, in the heat the oil thins out so thinner oil provides less protection. I know my Jeep recommended 5W30 for cold temps and 10W30 for warm temps.

 

 

0W20 and 5W20 are the same (20) thickness when the motor is at normal temperature.

0W20 is (0) thinner when the oil is cold than 5W20.

 

That's why 0W20 only improves MPG over 5W20 when the motor is cold.

BUT that's where ICE are at their worst.

 

Edited by wab
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0W20 and 5W20 are the same (20) thickness when the motor is at normal temperature.

0W20 is (0) thinner when the oil is cold than 5W20.

 

That's why 0W20 only improves MPG over 5W20 when the motor is cold.

BUT that's where ICE are at their worst.

 

In general, most likely true especially within a manufacturer's product line but there's a range of kinematic viscosity that will meet the broad SAE viscosity grades like 0W, 5W and so forth.  So the kinematic velocity at 40 C (the low SAE range) and at 100 C (the high SAE range) are likely not the same for the same grade oils. 

 

To get the correct picture especially among manufacturers, one needs to look at the kinematic viscosity / viscosity index of each oil.  Rather than repeat what I said before, here's my take on viscosity in this thread in particular post 23.  So, there could be a 5W20 oil with a high viscosity index that will provide better FE than a 0W20 based on ones normal operating conditions and there could be a 0W20 oil that provides better FE over the entire range of normal operating temperatures.  I want an oil with the lowest kinematic viscosity at 40 C, about average at 100 C that should result in a very high kinematic viscosity index.  Generally, this should provide better FE over my average operating conditions and better durability (and better lubrication) under extreme operating conditions like 110 F ambient climbing long, 6% grades at 80 mph. :)

Edited by Plus 3 Golfer
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What are the disadvantages to using 0W-20 over 5W-20? I assume it does not offer as much engine protection. Otherwise, why would any manufacturer recommend 5W-20 over 0W-20? If 0W-20 provides more MPGs with no tradeoffs, why recommend 5W-20 instead?

Edited by SPL Tech
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What are the disadvantages to using 0W-20 over 5W-20? I assume it does not offer as much engine protection. Otherwise, why would any manufacturer recommend 5W-20 over 0W-20? If 0W-20 provides more MPGs with no tradeoffs, why recommend 5W-20 instead?

We don't know all the specs.  For example, maybe the TBN of a 0W20 is lower than a 5W20 and thus may not "last as long" if one is trying to stretch the OCI.   We don't know the volatility of the oils and perhaps 0W20 has more volatiles which may require adding more make up oil. 

 

My guess is that most manufacturers' recommended oil is based on fairly severe operating conditions and they may not be concerned about perhaps very slight FE improvements of a lower weight oil or perhaps haven't yet developed a spec for a lower weight oil for their branded oil.  I think one will see most manufacturers recommend lower weight oils as CAFE targets increase. 

 

Ford now has a spec.for 0W20 and recommends it for all MY C-Maxes.

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I have a feeling that cost has a lot to do with it. If one works basically as well to the other but it less expensive, and you do similar equivalents across the board with the manufacture and service costs of the vehicle, it adds up, you can sell the car for less, and those checking on the costs of ownership see a reduction, all making the vehicle more appealing.

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I have a feeling that cost has a lot to do with it. If one works basically as well to the other but it less expensive, and you do similar equivalents across the board with the manufacture and service costs of the vehicle, it adds up, you can sell the car for less, and those checking on the costs of ownership see a reduction, all making the vehicle more appealing.

Mobil1 0W20 AFE and Mobil1 5W20 are the same price at Walmart. Isn't the price of Motorcraft full synthetic 5W20 and 0W20 the same. Even if there is a difference, I doubt paying a few $ per quart every 10k miles for 100k miles makes a difference. The big savings to the consumer comes from extending the OCI and IMO, is the reason many manufacturer's have modified their oil specs so that they can increase the OCI.
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Mobil1 0W20 AFE and Mobil1 5W20 are the same price at Walmart. Isn't the price of Motorcraft full synthetic 5W20 and 0W20 the same. Even if there is a difference, I doubt paying a few $ per quart every 10k miles for 100k miles makes a difference. The big savings to the consumer comes from extending the OCI and IMO, is the reason many manufacturer's have modified their oil specs so that they can increase the OCI.

It's the Gov. that has made the requirements to reduce the OCI. Filters are the weak link in this 10K mile OCI game.

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It's the Gov. that has made the requirements to reduce the OCI. Filters are the weak link in this 10K mile OCI game.

You mean increase?  

 

Governments indirectly in tightening emissions standards "forced" manufacturers to build better engines to reduce emissions and thus requiring oils that could handle tighter engine tolerances, higher temps and so forth.  Car makers and oil manufacturers had to come up with more durable oils.  The benefit of better oil was that manufacturers found they could extend the OCIs if they desired to.   I think it was GM that first introduced the OLM quite a while ago and extended OCIs.  IMO, it was a marketing ploy to have longer OCI as manufacturers could tout reduced maintenance costs.  

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You mean increase?  

 

Governments indirectly in tightening emissions standards "forced" manufacturers to build better engines to reduce emissions and thus requiring oils that could handle tighter engine tolerances, higher temps and so forth.  Car makers and oil manufacturers had to come up with more durable oils.  The benefit of better oil was that manufacturers found they could extend the OCIs if they desired to.   I think it was GM that first introduced the OLM quite a while ago and extended OCIs.  IMO, it was a marketing ploy to have longer OCI as manufacturers could tout reduced maintenance costs.  

OCI = Oil Change Interval......... I said reduce the OCI to go loner between oil changes.

Whatever you chose to call it (reduce/increase) it's purpose is to reduce oil usage and waste oil production.

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. The big savings to the consumer comes from extending the OCI and IMO, is the reason many manufacturer's have modified their oil specs so that they can increase the OCI.

How does going from 5W to 0W change the oil life? It doesent matter what the weight of the oil is, oil life is dependent upon engine use and oil type (e.g. synthetic or conventional).

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How does going from 5W to 0W change the oil life? It doesent matter what the weight of the oil is, oil life is dependent upon engine use and oil type (e.g. synthetic or conventional).

I didn't say it did. You wanted to know potential disadvantages of using 0W vs 5W.  I did state we don't know the "virgin" TBN of the oils.  From Blackstone: "What is a TBN, and who uses it? In short, a TBN (total base number) measures the amount of active additive left in a sample of oil. The TBN is useful for people who want to extend their oil usage far beyond the normal range."

 

 

The $ discussion was on a potential disadvantage of using a lower weight oil was price or cost to the consumer over the life of ownership and the reason manufacturers might not want to spec lower weight oil.  I don't see that unless one is comparing conventional / semi synthetic vs synthetic.  I simply added that with respect to oil change maintenance that extending the OCI is where the larger savings can occur and that over the years IMO is why car manufacturers and oil companies continue to develop better oils so that OCIs can be extended (the TBN left in the used oil is a determinant as to oil life).  The "better" oils (allowing use of lower weight oil) may also increase FE slightly and help with meeting CAFE.  

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All I know is that I had to pay an extra $50 or so for my dealer to use 0W20 at my 10,000 mile oil change. If it even costs a few cents to Ford more per vehicle during the manufacturing process to fill each vehicle, they will use what is cheaper, because it will save them money and/or reduce to cost to buy the vehicle. If the cost is identical, then I don't know.

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All I know is that I had to pay an extra $50 or so for my dealer to use 0W20 at my 10,000 mile oil change. If it even costs a few cents to Ford more per vehicle during the manufacturing process to fill each vehicle, they will use what is cheaper, because it will save them money and/or reduce to cost to buy the vehicle. If the cost is identical, then I don't know.

Most dealers will soak you when buying oil from them in comparison to Wal-Mart.

I buy Royal Purple 0W20 full synthetic from Amazon because Wal-Mart never stocks it.

I pay about 35 bucks for a 5 quart jug and get the OE MotorCraft oil filter for about

6 bucks and do my own service work. Don't buy oil from the dealer. It's a waste of money.

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All I know is that I had to pay an extra $50 or so for my dealer to use 0W20 at my 10,000 mile oil change. If it even costs a few cents to Ford more per vehicle during the manufacturing process to fill each vehicle, they will use what is cheaper, because it will save them money and/or reduce to cost to buy the vehicle. If the cost is identical, then I don't know.

 

WOW, really way to much extra.  Here's FordPartsGiant.com prices along with retail prices.  Like I said before different grades should be about the same price (like Walmart Mobil 1).  Full synthetic looks to be about $2+ more per quart.

gallery_167_32_21610.jpg

 

 

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