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Just a little info for everyone, Use it however you want. I spent 20yrs as an auditor for various gas stations/stores across the southeast USA. Part of that job was verifying the fuel level reporting of each station. Reports were used to track refill orders & to report to the EPA to verify tank & fuel pipes were not losing fuel [EPA does not care what leaks into tanks just what could leak out]. Despite appearances, gas stations are not sealed. Every time you put a gallon in your car, the same volume of air is drawn into the feed tank. Outside air with moisture & dust. I probably checked a thousand or more over the years & EVERYONE of them had some water/dirt in the bottom of the tanks. Depending on the size of tank & water level, equipment is used to remove excess. There is a reason for using fuel additives that should not ignored. THANKs for the read.

We shouldn't ever need that stuff with modern gas and well sealed fuel systems, It's been almost exactly 30+/- years ago since the last time I bought Heat, and that was to squeak my old '79 LTD thru emissions for the last year cars that old got a sniffer stuffed up it's tail pipe (ouch!). Two or three years later Illinoizzzz went to OBD2 only, '95 and earlier exempt. BUT...yeah, even though it's been running normally and starting fine in as cold as 5°, I bought a bottle last night and threw it in just in case somehow some moisture invaded my tank. The had a 2 for 1 sale on Lucas FI cleaner (I usually only use Techron), threw one in there too. Usually do that once or twice a year anyhow.   FWIW, that trick worked. Quarter tank of gas, 3-4 bottles of Heat. Long since forgot the numbers but before the Heat, the car barely failed. With Heat she passed with flying colors, just a tad over half allowable NOX (I think that was the one I failed).

A can of dry gas might help.   Cheers

Just as a fun little added tidbit. I ran across this post a while back and a cool video to watch to see how these things 'crank' the engine over:     Per the OP it's a Nissan Altima hybrid which has an eCVT just like ours. Spark plugs are all disconnected there in the video.  

HALLELUJA!!!!!!! Thank you Lord. She runs! First try, it was a tad rough and low rpm(5-600-ish) for a couple seconds and slowly starting picking up rpm to the normal 1500. I waited another 15 seconds and floored it, went up to 2100 (how its always done) and back to 1500 when I let off. Put it in gear and moved it backward and forward a few feet (wife's car is in front). A minute later the rpm fluctuated up and down then went up to 2100 roughly like it was randomly dropping a cylinder then smoothed out and went back to 1500 smoothly, that scenario was maybe 10 seconds. Sat there another 2 minutes, still smooth, HVB already up to 50%. Set the defrost on max but lowest fan speed, to keep the ICE running. Going to let i run a half hour or so, get good and warm. Tomorrow I'll get it scanned. Ate something that didn't agree with me last night, don't feel like doing squat today, almost didn't even go out to try the car but it's warmed up to a balmy 18° so I figured to out. I'm guessing the problem was fuel related, something iced up or froze and maybe had some air in the lines causing that fluctuating/rough running for a few seconds just now.

Just saw the video you posted (odd, I didn't see it te other day). Anyhow, mine didn't even "run" anywhere near that smooth. It was really rough, almost like only one cylinder was firing. And the rpm definitely was not steady. I also noticed at times the up/down arrow flicked from discharge to charge and I'm sure I saw the "EV" flick on once. Either way, fuel pump looks like a good place to start. Haven't done anything yet as it's still been sub freezing. Tomorrow supposed to be in the low 20s in the afternoon. I'll try again in case something was frozen.

Thats what I'm thinking and hoping, (the fact that it's spinning and starting the ICE that the HVB is not the problem). Maybe a bit of water contamination in the fuel icing up the or a few injectors, as I mentioned, going to leave it until Wednesday, supposed to hit mid 20's. Busy watching my granddaughter today, besides it being to danged cold to do anything but run from the house to the car (wifes car today!).

208K miles on my 2015 so far. Brake pads, rotors, tires, tie rod ends (Minnesota potholes) Still gets 40 MPG with cruise control set at 70MPH on 5 hour drives across Minnesota, Iowa, and South Dakota. Love this thing. Wish they woud make them again.  I would buy one in an instant.   G,

Maybe, but I'm doubtful. It'll know if it has enough charge in the HVB to start the engine successfully. If there wasn't, it wouldn't even get to the cranking stage. And these have enough oomph to get even a stone cold ICE started. You're talking a nominal ~300V battery pack with gobs of amps vs a ~12v lead acid battery starting an ICE only vehicle.   Hopefully it is something simple on the ICE side like fuel/spark/throttle body. But getting codes read first is really the best first step. Without any kind of diagnostic tools available, you're merely guessing. And you can't afford to continue trying to start it and drain the HVB further.

Nope, no room in the garage, got my Galaxie in there with the carb off waiting for me to rebuild it. I'll check the 12v voltage tomorrow but I doubt thats a problem, all the lights popped on right away as normal. Unfortunately, I don't have a code scanner. I might be stuck towing to a dealer anyhow.  I'm on the Illinois/Wisconsin state line, the stupid single digit and sub zero temps are going to last thru Tuesday night. Might wait until Wednesday and try again. Could be some moisture in the gas lines? Sorta doubt that, hasn't been an issue in any of my cars in decades. Could be with the HVB so low the drag from the generator combined with a really cold engine is keeping it from getting up in rpm?    Thanks for the replies guys.