Noah Harbinger

It's personal preference whether that's worth it to you. The first time took me 25 minutes, the Motorcraft filter is $15 at Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-FP-70-Cabin-Air-Filter/dp/B008PJDOSS It comes with same-day delivery for me in San Diego on Prime.

I'd imagine that makes a big difference. I almost always leave the fan on at about half-speed (in retrospect I wish I'd gotten a fully manual HVAC...) set to outside air.

Finally replaced mine. Before and after, after 22k miles. You do have to contort it to get it in... but you can tell from how the old one bounces-back that the new one will spring back into place after you shove it in. Edit: I notice that the dust pattern is the same on ArizonaEnergi's and mine.

What I'm curious about is how much car the vehicle will report on the tripmeter that it has burned, to figure out how far I can really really go. But I'm probably not going to stretch it like this again anyway. I did my 600 tank without any drafting, with tires at 38PSI, with ethanol gas, and a California low-smog blend at that (though not the summer blend - that's been a 10% drop-off in fuel economy!)

I don't think it has anything to do with being a Microsoft product as a system design constraint limitation. The vehicle's voice control has to be entirely self-contained, so it must run on a system with limited computing power. Siri / Google voice assistant / Cortana all have *massive* server farms doing the voice processing on the back end, using the phone as just a microphone.

Definitely not the whistling sound I was thinking of. I leave the rear seat louvre in the console open ever so slightly to prevent it from whistly.

Wow, I was going to ask the exact same thing! Particularly some sort of molded protection for the shoulders against which the seat-back rests - my bike likes to grind against that, I should protect it before it gets any worse.

I'm guessing you don't remember what the gauge said? :)

Teslas don't have a power split transmission. I'm sure power efficiency played a role in the design of it - but not that much. Efficiency on the electrical motor specs I've looked at didn't really drop off until about the top 20% of its torque rating, whereas Snowstorm seems to think Ford is oversizing by a factor of almost 300%! Whereas the numbers you hypothesize seem very reasonable. I've only just started logging data from the transmission but in my little growler-run out to a local brewery and back, I logged a max 53kWH draw on the motor, and -44kWH draw by (i.e. 44kWH generated from) the generator motor. Not surprisingly (given how a powersplit transmission works), both of those peaks occurred at the same time - when I was accelerating unusually hard (for the purposes of collecting interesting data). It underscores that the purpose of a traction motor rated significantly higher than the battery output is to consume power from the generator motor, sending power through the electrical path to effectively reduce the gear ratio between the gas engine and the wheels. Hence the Transmission role of the motors connected via a the planetary gear set.

I'm not familiar with the plug-in. Do you have a picture of what the display you're reading says?

Is that the quantity reported by your dash, or the quantity reported by the pump when refilling?

I know others have had this problem, but the site search is atrocious and I can't find it anymore. We're heading into summer, and that means hot days. And that means the entertainment system failing. I haven't had as many failures as others have reported, but it's been enough to be concerning and embarrasing. I have to channel a hot day last January to remember the last time it happened, but what I recall is: Display starts up as normal, and looks like it's working. But it never connects to the phone, it never starts playing audio, and it ignores any touch-screen keypresses. I think I remember hearing the 'boop's when I tap on controls, but it does not result in any changes to the display. Likewise, when I press the steering wheel paddles, the 'Bling' plays, but the system never responds with "Please say a command", and regardless of what I say, neither the timeout ('doot-doot') nor any response are emitted. After driving for about 10-15 minutes (I usually AC when it's hot enough for this to happen), I can pull over, turn off the car (I have to open the car door and close it to trick it into thinking I'm not hanging around), let the system quiesce for a minute, and then *usually* (all but one time), it will be happy the rest of the day. Was there ever a solution suggested or a TSB written that might describe how the dealer can troubleshoot this? I figure that since I can't reproduce the problem on command, I don't have a prayer of getting it fixed unless the problem and solution are already well established.

I finally spent some time figuring out how to read signed-integer values in the EngineLink ODB-II reader app for the iPhone/iPad/iOS. The values that come over the bus are 2s-compliment signed integers, but EngineLink uses the (open source but unmaintained) GCMathParser library for its formula evaluations. It doesn't have any concept for treating values as signed, and EngineLink doesn't seem to have the chops to modify it or to pre-process any (signed) evaluations. Someone (who? I can't find the post anymore!) somewhat recently posted a link to http://i-fix.us/Torque-Pro-Settings-for-Ford-Fusion-and-C-MAX-Energi.php, which provided a bunch of interesting PIDs I'd never seen before (specifically, the gen/motor torque and speed PIDs). That finally gave me the motivation to look at this some more. I played with different ways to use the mod function, which seemed the most relevant function they provide. Suppose u(x) is the equation for the unsigned value of the 16-bit 2s-compement signed x. Then, u(x)%2^15 - x yields a function whose value is -(2^15) where X < 0, and 0 where x > 0. With that, you can subtract that offset function from the unsigned value, and the result is equal to the signed value. That simplifies to Value = 2*(Unsigned%MaxSigned) - Unsigned. To clarify visually, in the chart below, red indicates the unsigned value of the signed integer X; blue the offset you add twice to X, and green the desired value. That let me convert the formulas that use signed values to work in Enginelink, including the long-sought HV Battery Current. I have loaded these into EngineLink and taken some test drives, and the values all seem reasonable and seem to match my understanding of how the powersplit transmission works. (The min/max values seem to be off, though - I'll have to update those based on data I collect). ModeAndPID,Name,Min,Max,Unit,Formula,Header 22480B,Hv Current,-110,110,amps,(2*((A*256+B)%32768)-(A*256+B))/50,0 221e2c,Motor Speed,-10000,10000,RPM,(2*((A*256+B)%32768)-(A*256+B)),0 22481b,Motor Torque Command,-500,500,Nm,(2*((A*256+B)%32768)-(A*256+B))/10,0 22481c,Motor Torque from AC Source,-500,500,Nm,(2*((A*256+B)%32768)-(A*256+B))/10,0 224821,Generator Speed,-10000,10000,RPM,(2*((A*256+B)%32768)-(A*256+B)),0 224819,Generator Torque Command,-500,500,Nm,(2*((A*256+B)%32768)-(A*256+B))/10,0 22481a,Generator Torque from AC Source,-500,500,Nm,(2*((A*256+B)%32768)-(A*256+B))/10,0 If there's anyone else out there using EngineLink, I hope that's useful!

The Acoustic Windshield thing actually does sound like a real thing: Ford made a big deal about their Laminated Acoustic Glass a few years back, as part of their push to be an industry leader in NVH. Some googling points towards Carlite SoundScreen II as the OEM trade name. It doesn't sound like they've talked about it much recently - I would guess it's become so standard that it's too old-hat to brag about.

Have you looked at how the raw manual is stored? I'm curious if there's a way to process the information to be usable on a Mac. If it's just repackaged HTML files and images (i.e. if it's stored as Windows Help files), it should be easy to script.

Facts are not copyrightable. You can take every piece of information in the service manual and re-publish it, as nothing in the service manual could rightly be called a 'trade secret'. But you cannot copy the service manual itself. You have to re-explain the facts, and re-draw the diagrams, or else you are "pirating" it. In short: Copying the service manual is a violation; copying the information is not.

But my point is that battery depletion/charge rates have nothing to do with whether the motor sizes are excessively large, because they do more than drive from / charge to the battery. So I don't see how your response either adds or contradicts anything I said.

Some power is always lost when charging the battery; the more charged it already is, the more power is lost. Since your drive ahead of you - when you'll accelerate, when you'll brake, where you'll turn, what hills you'll go up and down, and how fast you'll do it - is relatively unknown (and much less well known to the vehicle than to you), it operates under a set of assumptions that they hope will work well for most people. I think in this case, they're reserving some room for regenerating from braking, because that's essentially free power (whereas generating while you drive costs gas).

Anyone whose water right was acquired after 1914 is receiving between a 75% and 100% cutback this year. Those whose water rights extend further back (some water rights are older than the US itself) expect to face a 50-60% cutback. I'd say farmers are doing their part. And I'd say you should check your own understanding before you go around calling people idiots.

I suspect Fords has worse problems with mildew just because of the HVAC operating modes they design. I am irritated that I cannot run in Defrost mode without AC - my habit on my previous car was always to, after the windows cleared, leave Defrost running with AC off, to help keep the vents dry. That is no longer an option with this vehicle. Also, Ford's "Max AC" option runs in recirculate, which I suspect most people don't realize increases moisture buildup.

I suspect what you're missing is that traction / generator motor set function as, effectively, the 'gear ratio' portion of the transmission. For example, suppose you're at a dead stop, and you mash the pedal (and supposing a low enough SOC that the car does not draw from the HV battery). The annular ring will be still, allowing/forcing torque from the ICE to *entirely* drives the generator motor; and the power generated there drives the traction motor, effectively providing an infinite gear ratio - but constrained up to the 64kW generator motor's capacity. With charge, you can get another boost of up to 22kW from the HV system, to hit the 88kW limit on the traction motor. In more general concept, the degree to which the generator motor resists the turning of the engine translates to what proportion of the engine's torque is sent directly to the wheels. The "resistance" torque applied by the generator, generates electricity, which may go to either the traction motor (if whether the 'commanded power' is greater than what the engine supplies), or to charge the battery. The greater rating for the Energi is probably because its battery can supply more power.

I would say there's a bimodal distribution between people who only show up to report a problem, and people who are enthusiasts of one stripe or another. [sEL, 2 years... no battery problems.]

You can do better than that. Tell us the story of your car! Sounds like you got a used car. Miles? private party? Model? Have you figured out the build date yet?

But I think the tradeoff is that you lose the sunglass compartment, no?

I've had my windows unexpectedly down once, and my liftgate unexpectedly open twice. But it could have been pocket-presses all both cases. (I chalk it up to bad fob design - I think open buttons should be smaller / recessed). For another fob-related issue: I unlock my liftgate with the remote every workday, and about once every three weeks, the lights flash with the second click (as they do before opening properly), but it does not open. I don't recall hearing any sounds that would indicate any of the usual unlatching or liftgate propulsion, but I usually do it 20 feet or so away, as I finish my ride into the car, so I couldn't say for sure if I'm just not hearing it, or if it's not happening. The liftgate open button on the dash always works, so I don't think it's mechanical.