Noah Harbinger

And that's my biggest worry - if it is deemed that the TSB doesn't apply and that the noise alone doesn't warrant repair. Maybe I'm vain, but it is embarrassing to have a car making that much noise. I adjust my driving so that the battery is full before pulling into parking lots so that people don't stare at me...

I feel like replying to my past self to say, I replaced the evaporator core temperature sensor (myself, since it was out of warranty) back in 2017 - I recall it being quick and easy, but time can make it easy to forget past troubles! It's been happy ever since.

They just called to say they're looking at TSB 20-2219: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10177123-0001.pdf After reading that, I'm curious if that is the right TSB, since it states "The noise may be present in all gear ranges including neutral when the vehicle is moving but will not be present when the vehicle is stationary or in park" - the noise definitely occurs (in all gear selector positions) when the engine is on but the car is not moving. Maybe the TSB means, "... when the gas engine is on ... "?

The 8-year / 100,000-mile warranty on hybrid-specific components will hopefully save me here. I just took mine in yesterday. (They said the transmission shop is backed up and wouldn't be able to look at it for a few days, but I'm working from home now, so it isn't that big of a deal to be car-free for a while...) I really love my C-Max apart from this, and I hope this keeps it drivable another 10 years.

The 2013 onward Fusion is pretty much exactly the same as the C-Max - same weight, same engine, same battery, same transmission. The only difference is a smaller cross-section and lower coefficient of drag. So any difference you're feeling in performance is purely psycosomatic.

It's too bad people post these problems and then never come back to say anything about the resolution!

I'm having pretty much the exact same noise. Specifically, the noise is only present when the ICE is running, including at a dead stop - both of which rule out TSB 14-0176. I should probably take it to be looked at...

5000 ICE miles, presumably; if you're driving 90% electric mode, that could take a while!

I feel you with the grumbles on the quality issues (though I have not experienced any yet, knock on metal) and every problem deserves to be acknowledged, but every one of us knew up front exactly how far they will stand by it: 36 months / 36k miles. I'm surprised that the dealer covered the 60k mile fuel injector, that seems like above and beyond right there - though $169 sounds like a ridiculous fee for something you can check with $15 worth of hardware and your smartphone. Are you still on your first 12v battery?

On the C-Max of course there is nothing to "engage", just a matter of a direction on the torque. I'm not an expert at motors so I try to assume anything out of the ordinary carries a risk of unknown consequences. At the very least, it would be confusing for a second :)

Nice! I was just realizing at 50k miles that the dealer didn't change it at the scheduled interval. Makes me wonder why I go to a dealer!

I had a similar problem - I was freaked out that my 12v battery had decided to die in middle-of-nowhere Idaho, or at least didn't have enough power at 41º to maintain its key fob sensors. But opening it with the manual key, everything turned on and it started right up. So I'm guessing it was actually the fob's battery that lost too much power to work at 41º - it's running 2.8v open-circuit voltage now, which is on the low side considering that under load it should hit that voltage at 60% discharged.

Did a run from San Diego to Rexburg, Idaho. Put 2300 miles on the C-max round trip, including a day of scouting for a better campsite. I stopped recording the individual gas tanks some ways in, since I was being careful to keep it topped off, just in case there was a run on gas, so the Fuelly doesn't report that milage yet - but between AC and 80MPH highways through Utah and Idaho, mileage was down a tad to 41MPG. Definitely worth it, and I'll spare no expense to chase the 2024 Eclipse.

I played with that a bit until that one morning when I was left wondering for a second "Why did my rear-view camera come on?" :lol: And after that I decided it wasn't worth it. I wonder how the motor would have reacted if I had stepped on the accelerator before realizing my mistake.

Just to respond to the original comment: I'm a hair over 4 years since purchase and I am still on the original battery. I've been meaning to do some measurements as it is getting up in age and there's no point in waiting for surprises.

I was just wondering about this. I've only had the AC cut out twice, but I really don't use it that much except when I have passengers - I like the feel of wind. The first time AC cut out and never came back on, it stayed off until after I stopped and got moving again. The second time, I turned off the AC for a while thinking its controllers needed to 'reset', and about 10 minutes later it came back on.

I eventually noticed that the weatherstriping between the front and rear drivers-side doors folds, and when it does it lets in noticably (but not intolerably) more noise. I have yet to really resolve it, other than trying to remember to un-fold it after opening the rear door.

Second time through is much easier, popped in and out in 5 minutes. I do want to note for any first-timers that a T-20 Torx bit fits better than the T-15 he recommends!

I both like the tallness and dislike it. That drag coefficient and cross-section size are murder on highway mileage.

Personally I never use navigation for directions - but I love having the map up.

It's personal preference whether that's worth it to you. The first time took me 25 minutes, the Motorcraft filter is $15 at Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-FP-70-Cabin-Air-Filter/dp/B008PJDOSS It comes with same-day delivery for me in San Diego on Prime.

I'd imagine that makes a big difference. I almost always leave the fan on at about half-speed (in retrospect I wish I'd gotten a fully manual HVAC...) set to outside air.

Finally replaced mine. Before and after, after 22k miles. You do have to contort it to get it in... but you can tell from how the old one bounces-back that the new one will spring back into place after you shove it in. Edit: I notice that the dust pattern is the same on ArizonaEnergi's and mine.

What I'm curious about is how much car the vehicle will report on the tripmeter that it has burned, to figure out how far I can really really go. But I'm probably not going to stretch it like this again anyway. I did my 600 tank without any drafting, with tires at 38PSI, with ethanol gas, and a California low-smog blend at that (though not the summer blend - that's been a 10% drop-off in fuel economy!)

I don't think it has anything to do with being a Microsoft product as a system design constraint limitation. The vehicle's voice control has to be entirely self-contained, so it must run on a system with limited computing power. Siri / Google voice assistant / Cortana all have *massive* server farms doing the voice processing on the back end, using the phone as just a microphone.