valkraider

Holy crap, this board is giving me fits. Images and links that work on the Energi site are not working here... Annoying!

I hate that there is no "vent" mode.

I had been using TrueDelta on previous vehicles but I got tired of doing the reports all the time. :)

I just did 200 miles in my Energi over the Oregon coast range, using "EV Later" mode so I was functionally driving like the Hybrid version. I got 40mpg, despite temps ranging from 31degrees to 40degrees (F) and lots of climbing up and down hills, and my engine is not broken in as I had only 150 miles on the gasoline engine prior to the trip...

Remember, the screen isn't the Nav screen, it is the MyFordTouch screen, which can be used to display Nav, Radio, climate or phone functions. I believe the radio will still auto turn off after a while. You can also change the audio source using the clear-ish "source" button (I think also on the left, just to the rear of the power button), then use the rocker panel which surrounds the big volume button to scroll through presets, or scan.

Even if they could still power the 12v accessories from the high voltage battery via the step-down, when the 12v battery is disconnected it would break the circuit which means no juice can flow even if there were juice available.

Just to the left and forward of the big volume knob. It has a power symbol on it.

The radio will turn off after a while. Maybe 10 or 15 minutes. I have found that if I am in the car I can just press the power button on the radio and it will turn on.

I had the same deal with two VW new beetles. Cracking a window or opening a door would help the hatch shut reliably. If all the doors or windows were closed it would often not click th hatch shut correctly. I bet the slight vacuum on the initial kick is causing the collision detection to kick in, and stop the opening. But the second kick works because the movement from the first attempt broke the seal.

Ahh, good old VAG-COM. I prevented some EGR hassles on my 2003TDI using one at a VW get-together. By adjusting one parameter still within manufacturer spec but just slightly higher than factory setting, we saved many people from being stranded or having trips to the dealer. If Ford does have something similar, I would love to know. I have the perfect little left-over "laptop schools" laptop that is dying to have a purpose in life.

There is a drive in in Memphis TN, and one in Newberg, OR.

Document document document.

I tried that. It "installed" but never rebooted. I know it's a delayed reboot - but how delayed? Does it just happen on its own some time?

Dealer says "Ford knows about these problems, but there is nothing we can do at this time" and recommended yet another "master reset" which is just wonderful when I lose my configuration and presets every three days. Yay MyFordTouch! How do you release a product this bad? I would be fired if my systems were as poorly designed and unreliable as this one...

It shouldn't matter. Every car made in the last decade has had battery protection where lights or other systems shut off after a certain period of inactivity. My 20 year old Taurus as big of a POS as it was, wouldn't kill the battery if you left the key on. It would shut down after like an hour of inactivity or whatever. Now especially with that huge battery able to charge te 12v system - it just flat out shouldn't be a problem even if the door is left open, or lights are left on. Things should shut off before the 12v system is drained.

Isn't there a 12v air pump in the tire kit?

How is this? (Sorry for the blur, I had to run out in the street in the dark to capture this pic) (notice the trailer hitch) It was pretty hard to get out of the spot, as there is no "get out assist".

This post can be deleted.

That is the theory. It's winter time though so we won't know for sure for a few more months. ;)

It will just get dropped. But the Lawyers still get a bunch of billable hours. And Ford has to pay the lawyers so prices go up or quality goes down.

On Ford vehicles there is a procedure to reset the power window behavior. Look for that, I don't know what it is though.

I'll let you know what the dealer says tomorrow.

The 16amp would be fine if only using for the CMax Energi - as it has a low-power charger. But if you want to use it with any other cars, such as a 2013 Leaf or a Focus electric then the 30amp is a better choice - especially if you want to future-proof. The 30amp versions may require more heavy duty wiring than the 16amp. CMax Energi does not have an on-board charging timer. (At least that we can access). It charges when you plug it in. We might be able to schedule it with MyFordMobile once Ford gets that working for the CMax but I won't know until I can get in with my VIN... Electrical codes vary by locale. Everyone should check with their local governments on these things. Where I live you are allowed to personally wire inside a home you own, without a license - as long as it is from the panel inside the home. If you have to go outside the panel it has to be an electrician. Check your codes. If you have an older panel or power tap, you may not have enough capacity for another 240 circuit or a high amperage draw. If there is any doubt or question get an electrician. Older wiring won't take the Level2 charger all that well.

The Leaf doesn't have active battery cooling, and is only cooled by ambient outside air. The C-Max Energi has active cooling (air) and is cooled by the air inside the cabin. If you are comfortable in the cabin, the battery should be as well. The problem with the Leaf is the same problem air cooled VWs and Harley Davidson's have in extreme heat. Passive radiant temperature management doesn't work near the extremes. The Energi battery temp is actively controlled, although only with air - so it is better than the passive but not as good as say the Volt which has active temp control using liquid systems. Liquid works better than air but add complexity and weight. Air works OK but will have its limitations too. Passive like the Leaf will not work in extreme cold or heat.